Boris113
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Posts posted by Boris113
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Afraid this is the only other picture I could find but hopefully a bit clearer. As you are looking at it, there is a 90* shelving bracket that is bolted to the right side of the filter box and the upper face of the inner wing. There is also a small diagonal bar that goes down at 45* from the bottom left of the filter box to the horizontal part of the inner wing. All the little holes were filled with rivets/silicon at the same time.
I used the Disco 300Tdi pipework from turbo to airbox then fitted the brackets and drilled holes dependent on where the filter housing sat once piped up.
Hope that helps, Harry
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Hi Ian, I used the same on a 300tdi/lt77 conversion. It's connected using the standard 300tdi disco pipework also. The inlet on the front is now connected to the snorkel but it seems to work well. Let me know if you would like some more pictures?
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I run with my plugs in and grease/check them from time to time, I have a breather on my timing chest and boost diaphragm too.
If you've got an oil leak either clutch or engine oil, having the wading plug in wont stop it from seeping through the bell-housing joint (unless you put sealant on the joint then yes it might keep it captured).
Hi Maverik, how did you attach one to the boost diaphragm?
Harry
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I have set from Halfords and they have been great. 35mm2, 4.5m long and £35. They are nice and flexible also.
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/jump-leads/halfords-35mm-booster-cables
Seem to recall they worked out significantly cheaper than any of the local ag suppliers or HGV places a couple of years ago.
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I squeezed a K&N Cone inside a mushroom top with the help of a die grinder and tiger seal. I'll try and find some pictures if that's any help?
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Sorry for the slow reply, been travelling with work. You have a PM
Harry
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How much you want for them?
£45 sound ok? They are £62 on the website, I bought them from Steve Parker a year ago, they have oily finger prints on them but never been fitted and still in the original box.
Sounds like you are cracking along with the conversion, keep up the good work
Harry
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Photobucket doesn't work from the office but I used 300tdi engine mounts which enabled the standard 300tdi downpipe to be used. A 300tdi disco air filter (square plastic one) sits on the inner wing just in front of the heater and is connected by a disco air intake pipe. Oil breather hose is the same as Maverik said above.
Fuel pipes all married up with no problems and the fuel filter is mounted to the bulkhead inboard of the clutch master cylinder - seem to remember I used the 2.5td rivnuts in the bulkhead to mount it
Radiator hoses were cut and extended with pieces of tube, a 200Tdi conversion top intercooler hose was the right length, the bottom is a mis-match of stainless tube/silicone but works fine.
The PAS hoses seem to reach without needing extending but don't quite sit flat against the front crossmember.
If you are interested I have a set of Steve Parker 300tdi extended oil cooler pipes that are still in the box?
I'll try and post a couple of pictures later on
Harry
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Could you invert the removable drop plate and fit the NATO hitch to that for towing the sankey to get the height correct then use a cross-member mounted loop as a recovery point? The below pictures are stolen from Extreme 4x4s website but explains the idea, looks like there is room behind the drop plate that the recovery eye will clear it.
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That's great thank you Western, I'll have a ganders through it this evening
Harry
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I tried stripper, thinners, sand paper and flap wheels on an old roll cage and it didn't seem to work too well. Now I tend to throw things on the bonfire (albeit not hot enough to damage the metalwork) then go over the items with a twist cup on the grinder, it seems to remove most paint/powdercoating.
For small items I use waste DOT4 applied with a paint brush and left for 24 hours then a wire brush.
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Bit of an odd one but I am looking for a couple of the retaining pins that hold the demountable top bar onto a 110 WOLF ROPS system, having had a look on google I'm struggling for a part number but found a NATO stock no of 7RU 2590-99-253-6871
It's the gold pin shown in the photo below, anyone have any ideas as to a part number? Annoyingly I left them in our old house when we moved
Thanks, Harry
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Not sure on the overall length but my +2" Goodrich rear hose struggles with the Gwyn Lewis kit, I've had to pend the T-piece on the axle upwards to get a little bit more length and it's still tighter than is ideal. I'd go for either +5" or braided lines the whole way along the vehicle if you are feeling flush.
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eBay has this kind of thing : https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/331651030956
I have the one in the second link and am very happy with it. It's mostly used on gravel and seems to cope well, the wide base makes it a lot more stable than the previous jack from Machine Mart. You can also get a transmission cradle to fit on instead of the saddle.
It squeezes under most vehicles although it certainly doesn't fit under lowered vehicles and sports cars.
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IIRC the Disco had a 100A alternator whereas the Defender was 65A.
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I used roughly the same approach as Snagger, T-wash the chassis first then Hammerite special metals primer, Rustoleum and finally Hammerite underbody stuff
It's held up well to stonechips and general wear although the combicolour chips and exposes the primer when the chassis is scraped or a jack is used against it.
4 years or so later the mud still falls off it
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Send me your email address and I'll send it on for you mate.
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Jon there is a 4.6 GEMS for sale on the Devon 4x4 forum at the moment, he's reduced the price to £300.
http://forum.devon4x4.com/index.php?view=topic&catid=22&id=153156
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Despite the horror stories about recon boxes, I purchased a recon 4-bolt box from MM4x4 5 years ago, it's covered 40k without any issues as of yet.
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You can buy Safari Equip products from 4x4 Overlander - http://www.4x4overlander.com/product-category/protection/
At the other end of the budget I fitted a set of rocksliders from these guys http://www.rock-sliders.co.uk/ They were under £100 inc shipping and I've not managed to bend them yet. The powdercoating hasn't stood up well but otherwise I have no complaints.
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I agree with Snagger, the 300Tdi Defender set-up works well and is easy to sort but the parts were expensive when I looked.
I used a 300Tdi Disco air-filter box mounted to the inner wing and plumbed to the turbo with a piece of pipe from a 300Tdi Discovery also. It's not factory fit but uses standard LR parts that were easy to source from a scrapped Discovery. It's now connected to a Southdown snorkel on the passenger side with a piece of flexi-pipe, there are not too many joints in the system so less chance of water ingress once sealed up. On the downside, I had to cut a hole in the wing which you may not wish to do and the pipework is a pain to route under the heater.
HTH, Harry
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Rather taken by this Disco 1 with a RRS supercharged V8 in it
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I used a chassis from Richards and have been very happy with it. I chose them because they were the only supplier that would do roll cage mounts before galvanising.
The advantage of the Marslands is that it has the adjustable rail on the rear cross member to assist with aligning the body which could save a bit of hassle.
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During the rebuild I lost the bonnet release cable and needed a solution for the MOT the following day so fitted a set of rubber toggles that were lying around in the garage - similar to the ones below.
They do the job fine and the bonnet doesn't rattle but I recently slipped off the bonnet whilst attaching a rope at a P&P day and now have a nice gouge across my stomach so would like to find something more 'flesh-friendly'.
Can anyone suggest a more flush-fitting alternative? Aero catches look nice but I have an MSS box with one and the handle seems to jam with mud/sand. If not can a TD5 style bonnet cable be fitted straight on? It's a 1989 90 with original bonnet/slam panel.
Thanks,
Harry
12V Battery trickle charger
in International Forum
Posted
I have a C-tek one and also the Aldi special, both have pulled batteries back from the dead successfully however as said above, the Aldi one resets when the power drops out.
I like the range of plugs that the Ctek one has, I have fitted their sockets into both the Land Rovers so there's no mucking around pulling the seat out and they are water resistant also.
My dad uses a an Optimate on his TVR, he's on the 2nd in 3 years after the first died for no reason. The 2nd one now seems to be playing up also.