Boris113
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Posts posted by Boris113
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I bought the cheapest DA sander that Screwfix sold before respraying the 90, it worked brilliantly on steel and alloy and was cheaper than a tin of paint stripper/caused less damage than a wire cup. 80 grit rapidly worked through brush-applied and factory paint, then 240 and 500 for finer work. Removing the dust bag and attaching an old Henry hoover to the outlet meant the sanding pads lasted a lot longer whilst causing less mess in the garage.
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The front arches as you said are handed, they are slightly longer on the rear edge so that they meet the sill. The rears are the same part number for left or right 1986-2006 although the part numbers vary dependent on pre/post 2006. Must admit I can't see the difference comparing a 2013 110 at work with my 2005 110.
https://www.britishparts.co.uk/products/8829-wheel-arch-eyebrow-ALO710010
Hope that helps, Harry
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On 9/27/2017 at 2:26 PM, finnarne said:
Anyone who has done any business with rock-sliders.co.uk recently. We're trying to get in touch with them, but they wont answer email or phone it seems.
We were thinking of 3-4 pairs of tree/rock-sliders, and some tankguards, but at least one has found another solution.
Another option but have you tried contacting him through Facebook? They seem to post quite a few things on there.
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I can take some measurements from the front of a TD5 110 if that helps? I believe they are all the same on the front, we fitted a set of Disco 1 ARBs to a friends TD5 110 last year and all the brackets lined up etc.
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Mudmonkey is entirely correct with regards to the NI MOT.
I'm on an extended trip to Republic of Ireland with a UK registered LR at the moment and my MOT expires whilst here (but not for a few months). I spoke to a few test centres then the DVLA and whilst I can drive over the border to NI for an MOT (which is legitimate in UK) it will not show up on UK ANPR cameras once back home. The advice was to MOT it in NI then again once back in UK.
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My 90 is insured on laid-up cover with Adrian Flux, previously it has lived in an open-sided barn, an enclosed grain store and now a locked shipping container, they've never quibbled as to it's location or to how it's secured but it's always had a tracker and been chained to the ground. The cost has varied dependent on the postcode it's been stored at for the last few years and cover is only whilst parked at the designated address. It's not insured for the road, simply fire, theft and vandalism. I don't live in the UK and again Adrian Flux were happy with that, the vehicle is parked in England however.
When it comes to renewal time, I'll be calling the NFU simply because having dealt with them before, they are brilliant and we have been slowly moving policies over to them. As Cynic-al says, call your local office, they are generally much more helpful and you can speak to the same person each time rather than a call centre.
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I've also used Big Dave (MD Couriers) albeit via from the D2 forum, he's a top guy and sensible prices.
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I've had good results with cellulose Nato green supplied by Witham Paints. The matt and satin both seemed good, it's easy enough to apply by brush, roller or spray gun. For spraying it needs a lot of thinners. Can't really compare it to any other brands, I chose it because my local ag suppliers are a dealer so can get it in next-day. http://www.withamgroup.co.uk/
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The wing shape has stayed the same but the Puma bonnet is wider at the bulkhead end. Looking at both genuine LR and Mamouth chequer plate, they do different versions for upto TD5 and then the Puma. The latter finishes before the radio ariel whereas the TD5 and earlier version goes further back with a hole for the ariel. The Puma chequer is a little narrower on the inner edge so the bonnet doesn't close onto it.
Given LR build tolerances, you may have space between the bonnet edge and wing top to get the chequer under but we didn't on our 2013 110.
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Have you tested each of the wires first using the exposed terminals on the park switch and then tested the wires directly to check that all feeds are working as they should?
Mine had a similar fault albeit a late TD5, it drove me mad for a few days of testing/swapping electrical parts before I pulled the motor apart to discover the teeth on the main gearwheel that drives the cable had sheered, it would catch on one wipe setting but not the others and parked totally randomly. The cog was about £15 so a lot cheaper than a new motor.
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On 6/8/2017 at 10:40 PM, Wheely said:
Hi Simone, one of our site managers said the name is Zinger, we bought gallons of the stuff from Tema but its becoming more common so somewhere in Sth Industrial should stock it dependent on where you are. It overpaints nicely with chassis black as Western said.
There are a few LR fans but not many unfortunately, we have a couple of Defenders there as works vehicles. I'm out of Ghana at present but drop me a PM and we can sort something out when I'm next back.
Harry
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Hi Simone, if you do want to use a paint similar to Galvafroid there is a supplier of zinc-rich paint in Ghana, we've used it for painting external steel beams on buildings and also for covering welding repairs to machinery, the finish looks like galvanising once dried.
I'll ask at work where they bought it from if that helps?
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I agree with above, Dad's old 90 had the same exhaust system that you currently have and it was lovely. The exhaust then rotted away and I welded in a straight through pipe as a cheap fix but it became unpleasantly noisy. It was sold shortly after so never changed back but the neighbours were relieved to see it go!
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I insulated/boarded out the back of the 110 last weekend for an impromptu camping trip, don't have all the measurements to hand but some are below if they help. The bulkhead has been removed so a little different but I'm 5'11" and could comfortably stretch out in the back without hitting the bulkhead removal bar or the rear door. Due to having a storage draw already fitted, I made the sleeping platform at the same level as the wheel boxes which gives more headroom for getting dressed etc. You can just about sleep 2 people on the width of the floor without going onto the wheelboxes but its not comfortable.
Width of floor 900mm
Length of floor at wheelbox height 1,815mm - this doesn't sound right so maybe double check.
Height of wheel box 230mm
Depth of wheel box 340mm
Depth of wheelbox less internal protrusion of the capping 250mm
Wheelbox to top of capping 230mm
Capping top to roof join 547mm
Roof gutter join to height in centre of roof 150mm
With regards to building fixed units and a seating area, it's worth having a look here for some ideas. http://coastlinecampers.com/project-gallery-1
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As other's have said, you can do it either way and if you have lifting equipment, the engine out option is probably the easiest, it's worth throwing some paint over the chassis whilst you have room to get at it.
My clutch failed this year whilst I was abroad, we dropped the gearbox using a trolley jack and basic toolkit. The seatbox and transmission tunnel don't need to come out if you take the selectors off the top of the gearbox first.
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A friend of mine living in RoI has recently bought a 110 hardtop and was going to be hit for the roadtax as well. He re-registered it as a commercial, declared himself as a sole trader then insured it as a company vehicle, his road tax halved. Clearly the legalities of this would need to be looked at carefully but he said his method was totally above board. The downside is it needs DOT every 6 months but overall it is still a significant saving.
IIRC it's permissible to register 4x4s as commercial by blanking the back windows with vinyl and removing the rear seats. No reason why you couldn't do that with your D2 although although once again, you would need to check the legalities.
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I'd go with the 285s personally, you will soon get fed up of clearing mud from your windows, mirrors and door locks with the 315s. It's also cheaper in that you don't require extended arches and possibly new wheels.
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Not sure of the differences between Defender and Disco transfer boxes but a Defender transfer box lever is normally straight, or at least the ones I've seen are.
Off topic but whats the device surrounding your handbrake lever?
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Appreciating you need a mains powered connection for this solution, but I leave the 110 permanently connected to a C-tek charger whilst abroad (8 weeks at a time). Previously it was driven once every couple of weeks by my father but if it was left for a while the battery would go dead and that stopped the tracker/alarm so this is by far a better solution.
I have a C-tek connector besides the passenger seat which the charger plugs into so no need for pulling the seat bases out either
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I've got an LED light bar under the front edge of the roof rack and it doesn't reflect on the bonnet although it is a dark colour which may help.
It is however distracting in fog/snow/rain because the bar illuminates drops of rain just before they kit the screen but LED headlights seem fine being mounted further forward.
It may be worth checking the legalities of forward facing lights and E-marking if you are going to be using them on the road. There used to be a certain rule about forward facing lights not being allowed to be used if they were mounted rearward of the front wheels or something along those lines.
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I tend to roll the tyre on top of 3 foot breaker bar and use that as a lever to lift it, moving the bar left or right allows a small amount of rotation to align on the studs.
We used to do the same with tractor tyres and a scaffold tube and it works fine.
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Have to agree, the seat covers are pretty good. Their castor corrected radius arms are fine also.
Accidentally purchased a wiper park switch and indicator stalk the other day, the park switch disintegrated before it made it out of the box and the indicator stalk seems to be missing the internal roller contacts
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Designa-Chassis still advertise 109 chassis on their website. Never used them but it's another option
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If it's deadlocks that you specifically want then there is a set here but they are not cheap and still don't prevent the tea-leaves smashing windows or bending the door tops.
A friend of mine recently fitted very neat padlock hasps, again they don't combat the above problems and its another key you have to faff with but they weren't expensive. He also argued that his doors are less likely to be stolen since they now have bolt holes in them...
As others have said, the X-eng pedal lock is great, easy to use and no heavy lumps of metal to injure occupants should there be an accident which could happen with other variants.
Help with snorkel fitting required
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Not too sure if the turbo/intercooler pipes would interfere with placement on a 200Tdi but this was my solution for a retrofitted 300tdi. It's a Discovery 300Tdi filter box and pipework connecting it to the engine. The pipe to the snorkel which isn't fitted in this picture comes out of the front, turns 180' and goes under the filter, squeezes past the heater and connects to the snorkel. The flexible hose came from Southdown. Whilst the panel filter may not be as effective as a cyclone filter fitted to Defender versions, this solution was cheap and fitted in the space available.