davyd8899
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Posts posted by davyd8899
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airlock
wouldnt of thought an airlock would last years as he suggested thats how long it wasnt working for
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Anyone care to guess why my heater has started working?
I've had the normal years of waiting til temp gauge reached halfway before anything reached slightly warm and since the start of the new year within about 2 mins warm air is coming from the vents...its worrying to say the least, aircon isnt on and you dont expect things to work.
devine insperation???
check coolant levals as a precautionary but cant think of a single reason why it should suddenly become more efficient!!
as you know its water circulation as well as water temp to blow warm air
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£240 + vat is seriously good value for having that job done! i would pay the man quick sharp before he realises what a pig of a job it is and re-quotes!
Take his hand of dam quick
agree completely with both of these comments!!!
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sorry didnt read correctly, thought he said tacho not working!!
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if you have a multi meter, disconnect the wires for the battery lamp and the tacho off of the alternator and check these
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just a thought some 300 discos, model dependent, came with remote central locking, do you know what model it is??
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hiya and welcome to the world of land rovers
boot floors are VERY common to rust on discos, also inner wings, body mounts in fact anywhere where there is pig iron on it!!
seriously though, if you can find a mate or someone with knolage of discos, he will immediatly
find any more rust problems you may have.
the diff lock is selected while the car is stationary, moving the lever across as shown on the diagram in front of the lever.
never had the problem myself but have heard that it can sieze through lack of use, there is a way of freeing it up, though not sure how, am sure 1 of the gurus on here will be able to explain if your not apposed to twirling a spanner or 2!!
when you get it working only use the diff lock when needed, running on hard roads etc puts pressure on the rest of the transmission and can lead to premature failure, i know this sounds obvious, but i have heard new land rover owners doing this and when asked to explain why they came out with "but i wanna use it!!"
hope this has helped and again welcome to our world,!!!
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finally located the problem, alternator was givig intermittent charge and wasnt sending any power to the tacho and not earthing properly which was causing the lamp not to be illuminated.
new alternator and now all is well!!
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can shed some light on this as i ad electrical issues that were eventually located to the alternator
just bought a new alternator as mine had failed the new 1 is purring out 14V at idle and 14.7V at 1500rpm
so i would say those figures appear normal
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checked under bonnet fuse box, all as it should be
pulled dash out and the battery bulb has not blown.
tacho still not working, and light never comes on
now really baffled
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also belt is tight, no slipping, if it was alternator it would light the lamp on the dashbored??
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lamp always worked before, when the tacho stopped working so did the lamp and the glowplugs so kinda guessing its all linked somehow??
surely bushes would go on alternator first??
yes tacho is alternator fed, its kicking out 14.9v but not to the battery or the tacho???
checked all terminals, the seem fine
really lost as to know what to try next
:wacko: -
right so i finally got the disco running no smoke all was good!!!
then..............................................
tacho/rev counter has stopped working, there is no charge going to the battery and when turning on the ignition there is no power to the glow plugs
have pulled all the fuses, under the dash and under the bonnet, checked the big alternator fuse all seem as the should.
have checked earths and seem to be making a good contact
the battery light is NOT illuminating to announce there is no charge going to the battery, also with the ignition on with the engine not running it still dosnt light up.
completly lost as to know what to try next so any ideas would be greatly appritiated!!!
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:wacko:
its 50/50 for best results.
depends on the temperature its going to be subjected though
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Dont know where you heard that but leaving a diesel on idle for prolonged periods will glaze the bores
supposed to have warm engine oil going through the turbo so you dont fry it!!!
heard that before but i've never idled my disco unless its seriously bloody cold and want do defrost it a bit and aint fried the turbo yet!!
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find out the total capacity of the cooling system, i dont know it off hand sorry
66% of the cooling system needs to be water, so obviously the other 34% needs to be antifreeze!!!
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if its flashing quickly without the caravan conected and then flashing normally with it connected either a bulb has gone or you have a bad connection somewhere.
the trailer warning light will NOT flash if you have defective bulb on that side with a caravan/light bored connected, but will flash at normal
as soon as the light bored is disconnected again the indicator will flash rapidly again.
can confirm the trailer warning light flashes once with nothing connected
also my disco only has a indicator in the bumper and not in the light cluster, so this shouldnt be a problem
hope this helps.
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start it 10 mins before you leave the house and leave to tickover???
i know thats not possible if you leve in town with lots of theaving scotes around!!
if you can though, 10 minutes of tickover will very mildly warm it so when you start putting the engine under load it will come up to temp quicker!!
also reccomended to leave a diesel to idle for 10 mins before use anyway............................
like we all do that!!
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Only up till 1990 then the 3.5 got EFI, untill 1993 when it became a 3.9 EFI.. You not a disco V8 owner then.
my bad!!!
had a disco V8 but as a toy, when it started being a workhorse/tow vehicle it had to go!
so 300tdi now
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Not sure about the specific petrol-system you have there (carbs or injection?)
V8 3.5 had carbs 3.9V8 was fuel injection.
just my 2 penneht worth
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yep the turbo oil drain
have completed 100 miles since discovering the problem and no noticable smoke, no loss of oil so hopefully got away with it!!
will keep an eye on it for the next few 100 miles i do realise i could of buggered the turbo seals
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problem finally solved!!
i bought a new oil drain pipe and err.................................
left the plastic bung in it!!!!!!!!!
cue riotous laughter and lots of YOU MUPPET!!!......................................
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problem finally solved!!
i bought a new oil drain pipe and err.................................
left the plastic bung in it!!!!!!!!!
cue riotous laughter and lots of YOU MUPPET!!!......................................
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http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/300-tdi-new-head-no-compession-120969-2.html
i think i just have
:wacko: :wacko: :blush:
:blush: 
:wacko: 
Changed Clutch and blew the Diff!!
in Discovery Forum
Posted
agree that it was in diff lock high which caused the blown tyres and the rear diff to go bang.
i would also imagine, as suggested that the front diff and transfer box has been damaged in some way as well.
however, there is no need to remove the gear linkage when changing a clutch, i did mine recently.
as fridge freezer says though it would be possible to knock the lever into diff lock when dropping the gearbox from the bell housing depending on how the clutch was changed, it is possible to do it from underneath, others say the engine has to come out to change it, do you know how the garage did yours?
also how long have you had the car?? from what you have described the lever was in diff lock low while obviously you were in high range to achieve the speeds you say you have.
did you notice the positin f the lever before the cluch was changed? this might provide a clue as to whether the garage was negligable or not.
if approching the garage i would also find out what they actually changed and ask for proof by way of reciepts. things like barings etc all need replacing and dont necesseraly come in a cluch kit. also the cluch fork is worth changing as this is prone to failing after a while as well.
hope this helps.
dave