davyd8899

Worth changing the timing/cam belt and poly belt as well, depending on how long they have been on, again lots of really good guides to follow on here, would be a shame to replace the HG for the timing belt to snap further down the line,

You can also cure the trailer light dash problem by wiring the indicators through a relay, which western very kindly showed me here:- http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83285http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83285http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=83285

What are the inner sills like?

it says TD5 utility in the sub heading, that nice grey on grey writing

with fear of being acccused of swearing, b**tp**t do rear quarter panels,non mechanical and can be treated with whatever you like so maybe worth a punt?

You CAN make money out of land rivers, my first disco was a 300, paid 250 as a non runner, spent 600 on it and sold for 1300, current disco is a 300 bought for 250 with a knackard head, found a good 2nd hand one on here for 100 quid, with new bolts, gasket set etc, total cost of car was 410, and the chassis is solid! Shame the same can't be said about the boot floor though.........

when you say radiator do you mean heater matrix or radiator (stupid question i know) only asking as your having heater issues and not overheat issues coolant flush in the matrix, leave it to soak then as said above hose over 1 pipe nice and tight and blow through, then alternate between pipes. if this doesnt work or its a new matrix then air is getting in somewhere, could be a piston liner, on the K series engine a pressure test wont show up an annealed head (gone soft) though i dont know if the TD5 suffers with this fault.

was the head gasket displaying any other symptoms of failure, bubbles in expansion tank, oil and coolant mixing? probably stating the obvious, but have you checked the flaps behind the dash? failing that, blocked heater matrix? coolant flush? metal dowles should help not hinder.

Thats great thankyou western, where can i find a 12V feed in the back or do i need to patch a wire from the ignition, and run it with an in line 5A fuse?

Thank you western, do I take it right that i can get a relay and just wire in the indicators in through the said relay of the bumper as normal? like i say i am somewhat a novice at electrics!! and dieseldog, not fitted anything, i bought it like it is, thought bulbs were the problem, however, i own a LR so nothing is quite so simple as it seems!!

another "i dont know you" post, but all the best for a speedy recovery

this all came about when changing a brake bulb, the top light cluster has an indicator lens in it,also has a twin phase stop and tail light at the top (not sure what that type is actually called but i think you get what i mean), however the plug in the back of the cluster only carries wires for the fog, reverse and blake lights. my old disco that i sold rececently was the same year (94) had different lenses, they didnt have the indecator lenses in, am i right in saying they were introduced on later models and the lenses i have now are retro fit?? also is it just a case of taking a feed off the bumper lights for the tail lights as i would like to wire them up. The indecators would be trickier though because in my mind if i pick up a feed from the bumper indecators, then wouldnt the green trailer dash light/buzzer operate if i did this? I am really not electrically minded, i do own and know how to use a multimeter, and can wire up simple circuits but thats about my electrical know how!! sosilple terminology please!! Any thoughts and ideas gratefully recieved

i second that, a real case of ignorance is bliss, ignorant people that dont know about the speedo or the rear view mirror....

Although I think I will resist starting a thread titled 'Defender started fine today, how can I stop this?' That's an easy fix, just disconnect the fuel stop solenoid to prevent your defender from starting!!!

A neadles width below the red still sounds to hot to me, unless you have a faulty guage/ temp sender, thermostat opens between 88-91 degrees , and the gushes should read on the middle, still flush the coolant system and clean the rad, see if that makes a difference. If not then I would for a different temp sender and see if you get a different fuego reading then.