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Monster

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Posts posted by Monster

  1. If you can't get hold of them, I'll try and get out tomorrow with the measuring tape.

    Hi,

    Any chance of a pic of boss?

    How high is adapter? (ie how far does it bring wheel to your body).

    What sort of quality is boss. I bought one from JC pn MB115. It was a steel fram with a plastic disc on bottom covered in a yucky plastic sleeve.

    Unfortunately this fits my steering column but the pcd only fits Mountney large mounts not MOMO little ones.(assume pcd 70).

    The MOMO ones for cars look very tidy.

    Whas type steering wheel did you have fitted? 4spoke, soft foam?

    Cheers.

  2. I have just fitted a defender 200tdi into my old 86 TD, i hva egot hold of a used 200tdi fuel filter housing but not sure where the lines go?

    I know where the feed in and out of the filter fit but where do the other lines go like the overflow/return to tank? it appears to be quite a different setup to the TD filter?

    any help appreciated

    colin

    The 200 feul filter is just a in out affair wheres the NA(and Td i think) had three pipes.

    The feul goes into the lift pump(from tank) through the filter and into the injection pump. The overflow goes back into the tank.

    It seems complicated wehn comparing to the Td, but the 200tdi is quite a simple setup really.

    Hope this helps.

  3. Just a thought....

    So am i right in thinking the transfer box is the same as fitted to other LRs?

    I have a box from an older Range Rover. Will this be a straight swap?

    I have still to determine whether i have the mechanism there or a blank case. Well even to find out year and designation! Definitely a facelift model.

    If i have a blank case, can i just install bits from RR box to make Disco box lockable?

    Or I must i completely remove Disco box and install RR box? (or maybe even a defender box as i plan to fit larger tyres).

    Look forward to your comments.

    Cheers.

  4. Mmm, It certainly does. Any idea what sort of money they fetch? Are they still available?

    I think i have one of these on my V8 i removed recently. Used though.

    I also have a inline thermostat that i never fitted. Also a few hydraulic fittings to join it all together. (all 1/2UNF) If interested give me a shout I will check and send a pic.

    I can post to you.

    Cheers.

  5. I have just purchased a lightweight that has a 24v electrical system. I have thought about converting it to 12v, but have some reservations about the conversion. First, will it change the value of the vehicle if I chage the systen away from original? Other than changing out the alternator, starter, and lights, is there anything else to the swap? Can you simply rewire the alternator and starter to a 12V system without replacing them? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Both alternator and starter are different beasts to yours.

    Maybe worth getting an upgraded starter if you looking to purchase a new one. It is a more modern design that uses gears and on board solenoid i think.

    Not really that hard to do. There are many series out there ideal for donors i would have thought.

  6. Hello chaps. Have a 24v REME recon 2.25 which I am going to change to 12v and put in my series 1. Can anyone tell me what would be the correct spak plugs and the compression ratio as paperworkless aprt from a power check chart. Many thanks. :huh:

    Not what you asked but... You can use the screened system as a temporary measure until you get the correct bits. I believe there is a dropper resistor before the coil to allow it to be used on a 24v system. The distributor doesnt have the nice vacuum advance like the civilian type though.

    Cheers.

  7. hi there i think you can remove the large sir clip on the alloy side of the turbo and rotate the turbo so that the pipe comes out on a different angle maybe that may help

    Yes, you can 'clock' the outlet. Just make sure that you mark where the wastegate bolts are so that you can realign them when the outlet is turned. Also trial fit the wastegate as the outlet may be where the the wastegate wants to go!. (You will need to tap out two new holes for the wastegate).

    I used a pair of pipe wrench with pins fitted(90 degrees from nose), to release circlip.

    Cheers.

  8. Hello,

    just bought a 2001 Disco 2 V8.

    I have probs with the air suspension and want to replace it with coil springs, now found these on ebay and have no idea if the kit is complete and worth the money:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LAND-ROVER-DISCOVERY...%3A1|240%3A1318

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LANDROVER-DISCOVERY-...%3A1|240%3A1318

    is this all I need, and what's the difference between both kits? ore do you guys suggest better solutions?

    As my bumper is damaged, I've been looking at a new bumper but the genuine ones are a lot more expensive than this one:

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/land-rover-discovery...%3A1|240%3A1318

    anyone experience with it? or the seller?

    To finish, my bushes in trailarms, panhard rod etc need to be replaced. Do you guys suggest genuine ones or poly/superpro/bearmach etc bushes?

    Thanks in advance!

    H.

    Sorry cant help with springs. Was considering OME 2" lift.

    Dont forget you need to tell computer that air suspension has been removed. Not done it myself but i believe you can do it using a NANOCOM.

    Cheers.

  9. Pay particular attention to the welds and platework where the cage meets the chassis

    99.99999% of the time what you and everyone else will see and admire will be visible and above the chassis

    on the 0.00001% of the time - when things go pear shaped, this is when the bit few see makes its entrance

    and thats the chassis mounts that do their job, tricky to get to, but take time and clean back before welding

    On my 90 (maybe yours is the same) remember the rear wiring loom exits the chassis leg at the back drovers side - erm just

    where you would like to weld - so bear in mind :)

    When you are happy then weld up as much as you possibly can on the entire cage, do small runs - ie do NOT

    then try to weld up each join fully in one pass - the pull push kicjks back in, do say 1/4 of one tube then the same on another and so on

    untill all are 1/4 welded, then do say 1/2 of whats left on each and so on, you won't in some places be able to

    fully weld up the tubes, have what isn't welded as small a area as possible, as you will have to remove the cage

    unbolting everything and any straps holding things where you wnat them, although now you would think

    the cage is "Pretty Much sorted welding wise" you'll be amazed how a now unheld cage can move about as you weld up

    those last places, again do all of them 1/2 at a time, this reduces distortion

    HTH

    Nige

    Hi Nige,

    Although a defender thread, i hoping this would also be of relevance to my lightweight hybrid.

    (I believe the particular one is for S3 & 90/110).

    I have a safety devices roll bar that i have trial fitted to my lightwieght hybrid but am struggling with the chassis mounts. I am mainly interested in the mounts that hold the hoop. Would you have any pics of them?

    For some reason exactly where i need to put the plates, are where the feul tank outrigger is situated. Also on the inside of the chassis is where the A frame support is mounted. Any ideas how i can get around this or generate the support needed for the roll bar?

    I am unable to drop down to your local pipe bender!

    Any thoughts would be appreciated.

    Cheers.

  10. In case I need to order new brackets, I am desperate to have them before Christmas as I have 2 weeks off, please can someone confirm if I have the correct part numbers. Also, I have a pair of series diesel rubber mounts, will it be ok to use these are should I use the Defender rubbers? I think the part numbers are:

    NRC5743 bracket mounting for chassis gearbox side

    NRC5742 bracket mounting for chassis transfer box side

    NRC8204, superseded WC110067L square plate for gearbox and transfer box

    ANR1808 diesel rubbers

    Many thanks, Chris

    Hi Chris,

    Sorry for taking so long to get back to you!

    It seems somewhat excessive to purchase new brackets. I hate to imagine what that'll cost!!

    I used a set of brackets from a V8 5 speed Range Rover. (LT77 box i think).

    Surely you can find some from a breakers yard or someones shed!!

    I am running a BorgWarner transferbox at the moment but the mount (Driverside) is the same. (I am pretty sure).

    The LT77 bracket LHS would be the same for most LTs i think.

    The reason i ask what engine mount you are using is because the discovery the engine is situated in a slightly different sideway position to that of a defender.

    You may find that if you use the same gearbox mounts as myself then your engine might be slightly asque!

    I am running the same bracket as you pic on post 20 but with V8 engine mount type rubbers. Not sure if there is a difference. My mounts are slightly higher than your but i still have the bottom hole lower thantt the chassis. Only bout an inch though. I have yet to weld a braket mount for the bottom hole!

    Cant you lift your gear/transferbox up any higher? Engine would probably need lifting too though.

    The mounts on my 110 n/a diesel are completely different and situated higher up i think.

    I can take a few pics if you want. Maybe a few days though! Just let me know what you are looking for!

    Helps or confuses??

    Cheers.

    Did you check out rjblanks thread on his 200tdi conversion. A very good writeup.

  11. I could have sworn someone told me that they were about £12 each somewhere...could have been my Land Rover selective hearing dropping off zeros from price tags again...

    Was it not from Paddocks? What part no: you searching by?

    Cheers.

  12. The Caster correction balls is no longer available from Paddock spares.

    I just ordered a pair today and they phoned me saying that they are no longer available.

    I asked why, but they "didn't knew"...

    Anyone that has a pair for sale or know anybody else that is selling caster correction balls?

    Maybe someone has done it yourself?

    :(:unsure:

    I vaguely seem to remember tomcat motorsports doing them? Theire website is being updated. Maybe worth a call?

    Not sure your reasons for doing this though. Most people seem to fit castor correction radius arms.

    Cheers.

  13. Gents

    Can anybody refresh my memory.

    Having problem removing the steering wheel as per other peoples posts above.

    Made a puller from a piece of 20*20*4mm angle with 6.5mm holes and an 8mm jacking bolt in the centre (very much like the photos above).

    However this ended up just bending the angle section so moved up a grade to a 10mm thick bit of plate with a 8mm jacking bolt again - thread stripped (put this down to poor tapping). So added a 8mm nut welded on. Same result.

    Now am going to move up to a 10mm nut. But am concerned has anybody experienced anything this stuck? As far as i remember the steering wheel to shaft interface is just a splined shaft (above 30+splines). Rust could potentially hold it in place - but i had it off a couple of years ago. So am a bit bemused about what would be holding it on,

    Any thoughts.

    My mate tried the bolt pully thing but with little sucess. What he did was similar to Jaroslav did only that he used a bearing splitter instead. Drilling two holes in the plastic to allow bolts through and fit pully base under steering wheel.

    Gave little trouble coming off!

    post-3419-1228740865_thumb.jpg

  14. Can you just confirm what ignition switch you have.

    Is it the petrol version(or tdi as same) or td one?

    The one that is OFF, IGN, turn against spring slightly for heater plugs, turn fully for start? (td)

    Or OFF, ACC, IGN, turn to Start? (tdi)

    I suspect that you have the first one.

    If so, I recommend you fit a high amperage relay(not timer like you currently have) instead of using the ignition switch to supply feed for the heater plugs.

    That is what i did. The ignition switch really isnt ideal for this role.

    This guy had a similar problem.military

    hope this of help. If not let me know i will try and clarify.

  15. i am rebuilding a 300tdi 90 and i am at the stage of putting the engine and box back into the landy, i have read that fitting a disco transfer box gives better performance how true is this? are there any down sides?

    i have a good transfer box from a 200tdi disco, will it work with the gearbox from the 300tdi defender???

    have done a search just want to ask somebody who has done this to a 300tdi

    many thanks

    Hi,

    Whereabouts are you located. Maybe interested in your old 1.4 box!

    Cheers.

  16. Hi,

    Has anyone tried these rims?

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16-x-8-Steel-BLACK-R...8QQcmdZViewItem

    I understand there are similar models available from the US.

    What wheel nuts would go with these? Would Series 1 Disco wheelnuts fit?

    These are the best steel wheel i have come up with so far. I would like some Mach 5s but they are soo expensive and i think they need to be built to order. I am not that keen on offroading alloys.

    The offset is +25mm. How does this compare to other 8x16 Modulars(90/110, S1 Disco fitments).

    Cheers.

  17. I don't really understand the question but will give it a stab in the dark. If you don't want to weld to the frame, then why not get creative with some metal plates and fabricate a mount that bolts around the frame rail or outrigger, where you can then weld the center hoop section to.

    The outriggers on the Designa chassis are made form the same material as the center rails (3mm plate) therefore are plenty strong to support the bar.

    BTW, I also have a series on a Designa chassis and I made my own internal roll cage a few years ago where the front portion is nearly the same as yours, it is doable. ;)

    Cheers,

    Todd.

    Hi Todd,

    Like the website. Been to it a few times.

    I would like to weld plates to chassis but feul outrigger is in the way on the outside and A frame support in the way on the inside. The plates weld to the sides of the chassis which is fairly straightforward but do i really have to remove the outrigger and A frame support?

    Whereabouts do you have your rollbar mounted to?

    I wanted to know how other series owners mounted/secured their roll bar.

    I dont want to just have roll bar sitting in tub, i want it to be an integral part of the chassis.

    If still unclear i could take a few pics to show you.

    By the way, what springs do you have fitted to your Landy?

    Cheers.

  18. Hi

    Have just fitted a new transfer case (with diff lock) to my 03 D2 that came without diff lock as standard!

    I can't seem to find the wiring plugs that connect onto the switches on the T-case, I thought that all the looms were standard for the D2's regardless of what equipment was fitted but as it turns out I thought wrong, or half wrong as I've found other wiring for switches etc that I have used

    Does anyone know if the wires are tucked away somewhere or if it is possible to add/buy the missing section of loom?

    Any other ideas welcome

    Cheers

    Pete

    Is it just for indication or does it include a revertive for the traction control system?

    Just a thought.

  19. Hi Graham

    they tend to breath quite heavy so i'd look at the state of the air filter ect. No idea on MPG. I havn't driven one for along time but as i recall they go quite well compared to a NAD. In my own personal opinion i would go for a 200 TDI as it's better in every way.

    Bill

    Hi,

    You could try bolting a td turbo onto a 200tdi engine! Its been done before.

    That is if you are worried about exhaust fitting problems.

    Cheers.

  20. I'm not offended but yes I am holding the key in the correct position, I think I will have to do a similar patch because I now believe the fault could be in the key switch.

    Do the plugs have a fuse in the fuse box, I can't see one on the diagramatic listing each fuse but there is one for something drawn like two T's head to head?

    Thanks for the help.

    Martin

    I dont think the cable is fused. Power is from the main input to ignition switch which i think is straight from the battery.

    Not an ideal situation but i think i am right in saying this. Ideally a fuse would be inline. Will have look tommorrow if i get a chance.

    I am definitely a fan of relays though and think this would be the best option. Powerwise and operationaly.

    All i did was remove the big thick brown cable and used a smaller one in its place to operate the relay. Feed for heater directly from battery via fuse.

    I also removed the old glass type fuse holder with a blade type from VWP also. No problems with lights or other electrics since! Would recommend this mod also.

    Cheers.

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