glow plugs not working

[martinspragg]

There is no current reaching the glow plugs of my 1992-94 ex mil defender. I traced it back to the ignition switch and so I assume the glow plug servo is dead. So all the servo's are in a line under the fuses and I can't find out which one is for the glow plugs?

Martin

[Guest WALFY]

Is the glow plug relay ot on the bulkhead on the engine side. What engine do you have. I'll look at the ones at work. As we still have N/A Diesel LR

[western]

only Tdi's & Td5 have a glow plug timer relay, could be a dead start relay [red/white wires to it]

[martinspragg]

There are 4 yellow plastic relays and one metal relay under the fuses engine bulkhead inside the cab. I assumed it was the relay but it could be something else, there is definitely 0 volts at the ignition switch connector that provides power to the glow plugs.

My other option is to rig a push button switch which will manually provide power to the plugs on cold start, I did this on an old chevy I had and it worked a treat.

Martin

[Monster]

There are 4 yellow plastic relays and one metal relay under the fuses engine bulkhead inside the cab. I assumed it was the relay but it could be something else, there is definitely 0 volts at the ignition switch connector that provides power to the glow plugs.

My other option is to rig a push button switch which will manually provide power to the plugs on cold start, I did this on an old chevy I had and it worked a treat.

Martin

hi,

As far as i understand it, the NA didnt have a heater plug relay. All the current went through the ignition switch. (Well my ExMod was this way). Because of the high current involved any sort of resistance would give problems.

I solved this problem by wiring in a seperate high power relay directly from battery(Fused with a Maxifuse) and used the output from the ignition switch as a trigger for relay.

Dont mean to be patronising but i take it you are holding the key turned onto the springy part of ignition switch slightly to heat plugs.

(I didnt know anything about this for a long time so no bones there).

All bits i got were from VWP.

You will soon know when you got the plugs working as the NA will be so easy to start. Bet at the moment it is a real b!!

Hope this helps.

[martinspragg]

I'm not offended but yes I am holding the key in the correct position, I think I will have to do a similar patch because I now believe the fault could be in the key switch.

Do the plugs have a fuse in the fuse box, I can't see one on the diagramatic listing each fuse but there is one for something drawn like two T's head to head?

Thanks for the help.

Martin

[Monster]

I'm not offended but yes I am holding the key in the correct position, I think I will have to do a similar patch because I now believe the fault could be in the key switch.

Do the plugs have a fuse in the fuse box, I can't see one on the diagramatic listing each fuse but there is one for something drawn like two T's head to head?

Thanks for the help.

Martin

I dont think the cable is fused. Power is from the main input to ignition switch which i think is straight from the battery.

Not an ideal situation but i think i am right in saying this. Ideally a fuse would be inline. Will have look tommorrow if i get a chance.

I am definitely a fan of relays though and think this would be the best option. Powerwise and operationaly.

All i did was remove the big thick brown cable and used a smaller one in its place to operate the relay. Feed for heater directly from battery via fuse.

I also removed the old glass type fuse holder with a blade type from VWP also. No problems with lights or other electrics since! Would recommend this mod also.

Cheers.