discomark10
-
Posts
303 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by discomark10
-
-
You could make one fairly easy.
pick up some large bearings to fit the shaft your going to use and get a bit of tube turned to size so it fits over the bearings. -
Idris what kind of oil pressure would you think of increasing it to? What do you mean by pump up? Do you know of any off the shelf dry sump kits? I wouldnt fancy making my own for something so critical. Are the followers a bit more complicated than I gave them credit for?
Mark what are the differences in diameter like for thor and gems? would it make much difference for a boosted engine? Especially when you are already pushing air through a chargecooler or intercooler?
Cheers
Jad
I cant remember the exact dimensions, I was reading up about it while ago, but when boosting you want to aim for less restrictive volume and the GEMS mani can be enlarged further easily where as the banana THOR cannot, plus its not an ideal design for bolting a SC to.
Dry sumps don't look that complicated, I saw a build on one a few years back and it didn't look complicated then. I'm tempted to have a bash at making one myself as the RV8 pumps are something to be desired.
May I ask why you want to aim for such a high PSI?
Check these guys out, they import yank motors for similar money your looking at for a boost kit if you do decide to go to the dark side.
-
I have to say a 454 with a bell housing adaptor would be a very good solution.
With the THOR the inlet manifold is very restrictive due to its narrow bore. Its good for low torque but restrictive at top end and especially for boost!
The comp ratio is the same I believe. -
I presume thats Barnaby?
tis indeed!
-
To be fair that does flex alright and a balanced amount!
-
The other thing is, with dislocating springs (and sufficiently long shocks) the drooping wheel can go down so far that the lower link angle gets really extreme with all its negative effects of trying to push the body upwards when it tries to walk under the vehicle. Usually the result of a very unbalanced suspension when people try to get as much articulation from the rear as possible to compensate for the crappy front end travel.
I would prefer a balanced setup front/rear with retained springs. I've never driven one with dislocating springs but to me I would think it would feel way more predictable and stable with retained springs.
I think you have hit some of the nail on the head! I think its some of the instability on a angled drop is down to a mixture of unbalanced setups and pushing the stock arm arrangements past suitable angles.
most people with some flex have huge rear travel and when the stiff front end drops in a hole causing the the body to roll with it and one rear wheel to drop down and try to walk under the body and tip the body more!
I seem to remember Dan saying that most common problems on long travel set ups is that they are under-sprung..... So I've no idea where that leave us.
I have to agree, The only way I can see a retained setup being an advantage over a properly set up articulation with no dislocation is on side slope where the axle/wheel weight would help it from rolling.
Bill my wife says that the suspension on your car looks unnatural
. Admittedly, in that situation, when the car is perfectly horizontal, I think more travel is better. How would you say your car on side slopes and off camber situations?
daan
Looking at the pics of Bills LR makes me think some sort of opposite corner ARB system would help with the instability on side angles, so the opposite corner can only do to an extent what the other is doing... to the the only way I can see this working is with a ram/air system.
-
70 front* and 80 rear and he said they owe him 550
-
If your interested my mates selling a front and rear Dana80's
-
I'd thought about that but don't have the equipment to bend an HD arm and have only spent 24 hours in the UK since buying the vehicle in June
Fingers crossed there may be a way of installing the track rod from underneath, gaining about 1.5 inches of clearance but this is dependent on the tapers of the TREs. An RB44 truck has a track rod that looks about right for your suggestion, it would just require shortening and drilling/tapping for the TREs. I have one in the shed so will have a look when I'm back 
Another solution would be to make some kind of "high steer" setup (http://seilers.smugmug.com/Fabrication/High-Pinion-Dana-44/HPD44/DSC3090/890801181_ciaQn-X2.jpg)
-
Great work Al
Not sure I can offer much in an Toyota technical sense but having recently bought a 90 with 80-series axles fitted via standard LR suspension, I would be happy to take measurements etc if you require. They were built up on a jig and look to be fitted well including LR props.Looking forward to seeing how you deal with the track rod fouling the radius arms, the previous owner of mine simply cut notches out of the radius arms for clearance - not a solution I am very fond of.
Harry
One solution would be to have bent arms
-
Someone else might chirp in and help but im 99% sure that edis will run at a fixed 10deg advance with megajolt turned off.
im assuming it was all running good before you fitted MJ? is that all you've done to it?
is the dizzy in a state you can just wack the cap back on and see how it runs like that?
yea it was running fine.. just usual cap related problems ever now and then.
so the dis should run without the pip/saw to the MJ with only vr coils and power? I just cut the power to the MJ, wonder if it needs disconnecting all together.
going to do a timing check on all 4 coils at 90deg I tervalls to check there firing in order.
My mate cam over and befor I told him the issues I was having he said it sounded like the leads are wrong.
cheers for the help guys.. apreciated!
-
yeah, my mistake when i did it all was i thought cylinder one was the N/S/F but in actual fact its O/S/F so thats how i wired it up wrong when i did it.
Not too sure if the output from the dizzy to the ECU is adjusted with the dizzy when you rotate it or not, if it is then obviously the dizzy would need to be timed somewhere near right but with not cap etc on it that isnt the easiest to get right if youve just bolted it back on any what way round
It's connected to the dizy still for 14cux fuel relays. Twisting the dizy doesn't seem to change anything.
I tried turning the EDIS relay on and cranking, but nothing.
-
Oh it can do that? Ill give it a try
-
Just checked for a 4th time, this time had the gf check also and its defo connected right in terms of coils.
-
Then why is MAP gauge pegged at 99kPa permanently in the 2nd video & the highlighted cell in the table is only moving across the 100kPa row at the top?
I don't have sound on this PC so can't hear any commentary there might be on the video.
that was only at the start when it was doing its own thing
-
Have you checked timing with a light? I'd put wires onto coil packs the wrong way round when i first wired the kit up that I fitted.
How's the ecu connected up at the minute? Still with the dizzy connected to provide the pulse or with the circuit you made?
yea timing seems good. . I assume you do it from Clynder 1 right?
to be honest they are mirrored but I changed the points around to suit and I've checked it like 3 times.
itsrunning from the dizy atm, it doesn't time the fuelpulses fromt it does it.. if it does how do I time it?
it is.connected and does change as expectedLooks like the MAP hose is disconnected as MAP is pegged at 100kPa
-
Putting this to one side for the moment.
Is anyone able to shed any light on why this MJ seems to run awfully bad.
its not the maf nor is it the ecu as I swaped them both out with the same results.
apologies for the 1st vid being upsude down.
You can hear it backfiring ect. Checked the plugs are on the right coil.
cheers mark
-
just found the emails from trigger wheels, in the standard setup theres a 6.8k ohm resistor between the coil and ecu, this gets removed when using the tacho driver they supply. maybe if this is left in (possibly in your case) the voltage is then too low at the ECU?
maybe find that resistor and remove it, then try seeing if the pump will prime with the lower voltage?
From memory the resistor was wrapped up in the loom not a million miles from the ecu
Cheers that helps, ill try and have a look or even contact them, it may have even had a voltage doubler or similar in it, as you said it had more possibly.
I've tried with and without the resistor, we used an oscilloscope to measure it all each time.
EDIT:
Is this it on this page, 2nd item?
-
you may be right but why does mine and by the sounds of it, others who have posted not run on the lower votage.They call it tacho driver but you use it for the black/white which goes to the ecu to give the pulses for injectors/fuel pump. There is no crank/cam sensor on the engine so that pulse is the only way the ecu knows the engine is turning over and at what rpm.
As I say, I have fitted megajolt to a 14cux and without the black white connected (tacho driver) it won't pulse the injectors or run the fuel pump
And what about the 75 volts from the coil/dizy? Somethings not adding up. And on the flapper at least, it uses the same system with a voltage devider which also backs up the fact it needs the high voltage.
I think your right about it using it for the rpm.
when I turned the dizy with a drill it ran and seemed to run a bit better when I sped it up to a certain extent.
but I was more interested in getting it running in the first place.
-
Aniesigh pretty sure that for the tacho (rev counter) which is a different wire but also happens to be white/black.
Ive measured the pulse from the dizy/coil and its around 75volts and a pulse below around 60volts does not allow it to work.
the zenor diode limits the voltage on the kit your talking about which is another thing to back up the reasoning it's not the same thing.
-
I half tried this as well before I swapped over injectors etc to run under full MS control, I didnt get it to work either, I didnt try too hard though. One thing that didnt quite make sense to me was using all 4 coils, wouldnt this double the number of pulses per cycle because of the wasted spark?
its not so much about the amount of pulses. Testing it with the distributor by hand it runs the relays for about 2 secconds every pulse and at 500 RPMM your looking at about 16 pulses a second of 1 coil, I think that it must be due to the total lack of information about the internal workings of the ECU.
but it would work fine with too many pulses and running off all 4 would be the same as the distributor as its still 8 pulses per revolution.
we tried looking for a curcuit diagram for it with no avail.
-
I tried this, it only initiates the fuel relay at around a 60 volt spike. tried several lower voltages with now luck.Yes it does, black/white wire from coil through AFM sub-loom, it goes via a resistor (I forget the value, 10K is it?) to the ECU, without this pulse the injectors will not fire fuel in.
It is a very common circuit to build for this, and other ECUs, just 4 1N4001 diodes from each of the ABCD on the EDIS plus a 5V Zener then to EUC, job done.
You not thinking about non alternator tacho?
-
What car/model is it ? My RRC 1990 when running on 14CUX gets absolutely no input from the distributor ?
Cheers
Michael
91 disco, is yours defo 14cux hotwire not 14cu flapper?
-
Just been looking at the ecu, trying to figure out how it accepts the 60 volts, going to give something a try before we make a doubler.
. 
Fingers crossed there may be a way of installing the track rod from underneath, gaining about 1.5 inches of clearance but this is dependent on the tapers of the TREs. An RB44 truck has a track rod that looks about right for your suggestion, it would just require shortening and drilling/tapping for the TREs. I have one in the shed so will have a look when I'm back 
Not sure I can offer much in an Toyota technical sense but having recently bought a 90 with 80-series axles fitted via standard LR suspension, I would be happy to take measurements etc if you require. They were built up on a jig and look to be fitted well including LR props.
Lexus 109 “Koya”
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Sounds like a starter issue, sound like it engages but doesn't spin.