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discomark10

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Posts posted by discomark10

    Megajolt with 14CUX Hotwire

    in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt

    Posted

    Thought this might be useful to some, so..

    I finished my install of the MJ today and got it running with the distributor and coil providing the pulses for the 14CUX ECU.

    I don't wish to run the dizy/coil in place so me and the old man (electronics wizard) set to finding out how to make the MJ provide the pulses.

    We scoped the pulses from the dizy/coil and it seems to be getting about 75 volt spikes,

    We put in some Zenor diodes limiting the voltage and come to the conclusion you need around 60+ volt spike every 2 seconds (at least) to get the ECU it to accept it.

    1 coil earth (to EDIS8) on the MJ only seems to provide about 40 volts at a rate of about 2 a second, which is about half of the original dizy/coil voltage but enough frequency.

    Going to try and make a voltage doubler circuit or similar to jump the 40 volts to around 80.

    The other thing that I could do is use the EDIS8 tacho output and jump the voltage to around 75.

    Cheers Mark

    3.5 Advance amount.

    in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt

    Posted

    That 46 degrees is only ever seen with the throttle fully closed at high revs - in these situations you can have a lot more advance that at WOT. At WOT it is only getting something like 30 I think? (photobucket is blocked on the vessel so cant get to or see any of my own pics). So far it has done about 3000miles with this setup and no issues at all, well, none engine related anyway ;)

    No sign of pinging either, but to be honest without some form of det cans I wouldn't expect to hear anything at that kind of rpm in the P6 as it is very well sound proofed compared to a landrover... You should be able to hear a lot better.

    I arrived at that figure when I built the map, which basically meant taking the quoted mech adv figures for my dizzy, and using them to populate the 100kPa row. I then converted the inHg quoted for vac advance to kPa and worked those in vertically.

    If you are worried about adding that much just back it off a little. If you use the factory figures for advance at WOT you cant go far wrong, as they should be a little conservative.

    Yea that makes sense, Its all new to me so having to get my head around it. :)

    I'm tempted to setup a knock sensor, even if its just to a pair of headphones to get it setup.

    Something like this http://www.dwjenkins.plus.com/knock-detection.htm

    80" special - what mechanicals for perfect recipe? (non-LR welcome

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    Could do worse than look at Freelander engines; the 1.8 petrol is brilliantly perky (lotus elise!) and, when assembled correctly, reliable. The L-series diesel is uncomplicated and has a great rep, and the TD4 is brilliant too, very flexible & torquey with the VNT. Plus they're all smaller and lighter than a V8 or TDi, but you can still buy parts from LR suppliers (and prices are still coming down).

    lighter than a rv8? I was under the impression that it was a very light engine being all ali.

    3.5 Advance amount.

    in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt

    Posted

    ^^ Spot on ! :D:i-m_so_happy:

    Cheers

    Here's something I sent to another forum member a little while ago - might help get you started...

    I can't find the charger for the laptop my latest map is on, but If you go to here:

    http://www.classicro...16625&start=120

    And scroll some way down you will get to a screenshot of the map I am running in my Rover P6. This is a 3.5, running 9.25:1 compression and using later 10 bolt heads. It goes very well indeed!

    If your 3.5 is a similar compression then you should be ok, if its lower (8.13) then you may need to up the advance a little bit- how much I have no idea! Just keep your ears peeled for pinging, and if in doubt, stop.

    I built the map using the info from here:

    http://www.rover-cla...e/enginev8.html

    and wrote about it a bit on here (I had questions about ported vs manifold vacuum):

    http://www.v8forum.c...e5a6c11ac7b92a9

    Hope this helps,

    Have fun! :i-m_so_happy:

    Jamie

    Having a look though the rest of the links and looking at your map, how on earth are you running 46 deg with no knock?

    3.5 Advance amount.

    in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt

    Posted

    Jamie your a gent, thanks for all the great links.

    Mine is indeed a 8:5.1.

    So from my understanding you can run more advance with a higher RON fuel as it is more resistant to knock (pre-detination)

    According to Nige's post the max advance on a 3.5 is 36.

    http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=15317&view=findpost&p=239333
    3.5s - Max of 36 degrees at around 3100-3200 .........(if you have a 'sleeved 3.5' with reduced CC (ie 3400) then 38 Degrees at 3200)
    3.9s Maximum of 34 degrees 3750-3850
    4.2s to 4.5s max 31 degrees @ 3900-4000
    4.6s and bigger Max 28 @ 3750-4000

    According to this table below and presuming its scales up the rev range with a low comp I can run more advance on the same RON fuel on a low comp motor.

    <table 712"="" border="1" style="margin: auto; padding: 0px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium;">

    At 600 rpm Compression Timing 10.5:1 6 degrees BTDC for use with fuel of 100 minimum research octane number. TDC for use with fuel of 96 to 99 minimum reasearch octance number 9.25:1 6 degrees BTDC for use with fuel of 96 minimum research octane number 8.5:1 6 degrees BTDC for use with fuel of 90 minimum research octane number

    for a 3.5 at max advance (36deg)

    9.25:1 on 96 is 0.375 deg per RON

    8.5:1 on 90 is 0.4 deg RON

    so 95 (regular unleaded) is 38 deg
    97 is 38.8 deg

    So does this sound right?

    Cheers Mark

    3.5 Advance amount.

    in MS-Megasquirt/Jolt

    Posted

    Hi guys,

    Just installing a MJ setup on my 3.5 efi.

    Been reading about the advance map table and that a smaller CU can run more advance, my question is what the max on a 3.5?

    And also does it matter what the compression ratio is?

    Cheers Mark

    d1 trayback build

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    ok, another shakedown run yesterday and some new issues.

    one is i tore all 4 engine/gearbox mounts. thats gonna be a fun fix.......

    another is the need for a new top rad hose. saw that coming but got cheap and didnt replace it. my bad.

    last is i managed to discharge both batteries so im looking at a alternator upgrade. i dont want to go duel (dont know if it can be done) but a upgrade to approx 150A would be nice. anyone know if you can get one to fit a 2.0mpi?

    I know its not cheap but RedWinch do some BEEFY alternators to fit most, check them out.

    Are you on V or flat belt?

    M57 into 110 CSW

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    Done the first long run , just over 1000miles up into Scotland and back via Lake district, about 50% motorway at 60mph cruise, and the rest on smallish roads thru hilly areas, involving a fair bit of braking /accelerating , with about 3/4 load , and a bigger than standard barn door frontal area (roof rack etc). Based on fillup and refill to same point , 29mpg , which is about double what the V8 was doing , so well worth the trouble! :i-m_so_happy:

    Sounds good, I did a run up to the lake district from Buckinghamshire last month in my 3.5V8 and got 14MPG :o

    Not sure if i'de swap still.

    80-series axles onto RRC

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    I also would really not be reusing the land rover front suspension Al, just make a H/D gearbox crossmember and a 1 link that bolts into your rangy chassis you will thank me for it ;)

    I have to agree, a one-link would be a good choice, you could make it so it bolts on the original radius mounts so you could replace the axle if needed.

    I'm going to assume the RRC is a V8? If so there might be a bit of clearance issues IF your down pipes go over the cross member with cats, can be a little tight!

    Is the rear a parallel 4 link with panard, rather than A frame? I'd keep that if your after some good flex, as the ball joint in the A frame can be restrictive!

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