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discomark10

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Posts posted by discomark10

    One Link and 3Link front suspension (homemade)

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    Ok, so I'm almost at the stage to start my 1 link and I've been looking at joints for it, Is this worth while?

    http://www.zuksoffroad.com/ZOR1link-basic-kit-one_p_175.html

    My old man goes to the US a few times a year due to family living there so I can get one here reasonably easy.

    I believe this joint is greasable too, my only worry about a joint is wear where as a bush wouldn't, but a bush would perish or even tear eventually depending on how much you push it.

    I would ideally want a fit and forget (other than maintenance) solution and I'de have to put a boot on it, maybe from a large'ish CV.

    The other Idea I had was to make a larger pin/bush like a D1/fender radius arm (chassis end).

    I've looked at other bushes/joints and to me they don't look strong enough or the right type of configuration.

    cheers

    One link suspension setup without a panhard rod

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    Argh just to throw this out there...... ditch the top sliding link setup and just make the one link pivot from a spindle with another spindle crossing it... a bit like a large UJfirst spindle controls rotational movement (articulation), second controls up and down (bump compression) the springs and bump stops will stop it rotating this doesnt need a panhard bar Or have I over simplified this lol suspension extends you compound the problem etc this is why I built my back end the way I did

    Thats basically what I was saying

    Triangulated two link front suspension. Anyone?

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Looking at it though, it does seem easier to package around the existing components like prop and sump.

    But I am even more confused by the title things as I thought "one" was welded "A" frame to axle and connected to chassis, this looks to have adjustable links in it that are tied to the link arm and to a bracket with a mounting higher up, maybe to correct castor?

    Anyone care to clarify my befuddled mind?

    Looks like you say.. adjustable caster, would be useful if you run different ride heights.

    One link suspension setup without a panhard rod

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    I think you may be over thinking the problem Mark, the work involved in creating a linkage that stopped the two A frames from fighting each other would be huge, and I'm pretty sure within the bounds of packaging and wear resistance a system such as you describe would be unviable,

    You may well be right!!

    I realised just moments ago the 2 aframe with 1link would in effect be a triangulated 4link but with the fixed axle due to the 1 link lower, all the packing issues associated with the 4 link would still be the same.

    The forces shouldn't be any more than with a single a frame setup so a normal wide angle aframe ball joint would do it.

    For a normal landy it probably wouldn't fit the front.. just like a triangulated 4 link.

    One link suspension setup without a panhard rod

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    I was thinking about the 1 link with the a frame.

    Rather than a sliding joint, a 2nd a frame with the bottom of the a on the axle or 1 link.. joined to the other 1 link with a ball on the chassis one and the socket on the axle one

    The axle a frame would pivot forwards and backwards, similar to the sliding part.

    Would all depend on clearance, but as long as the separation between the chassis a frame and the 1 link wasn't to much it would be minimal.

    Bolt-on 4 Link Kit

    in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects

    Posted

    Hi allMark this is my first post on any forum, i don't usually get involved in discussions like this, but seen as though it involves me directly, i thought i would. Most of the points that are being made from a photo an not actual fact, I'm sure all of us are aware how misleading a photo can be. So I'm not really sure were all this is really leading, im sure from a photo you could have a concern about the wall thickness everyone presumed it was tube (its solid) people are now presuming the rear arms are higher than the LR a-frame when in fact they are as near as dam-it (within 5 or 6 mm) in the same position it just looks different because its not the LR a-frame (looks can be deceiving), the difference is when the axle is at the lower end of the shocker its movement hasn't been restricted by the fact that when a ball joint move's from the middle of its socket it's second axis of movement starts to get restricted, a ball joint only has its maximum movement (what manufacturers quote) when in the centre, when it is at the back of its socket it has considerably less free movement without fouling on the edge of the socket, yes everyone has done it like that for years an it works to an extent, but every thing is that tight when in full articulation it squashes bushes, it also marks the socket an pin with compression bruises were it has been crushed together, has anyone cut a fulcrum ball joint open to look at the damage you get after one weekends use with extended travel shocks and rear arms that don't lock out in the chassis brackets (I'm presuming, no). the EX-ART 4 LINK kit is designed to move freely without any crushing of bushes or damage to ball joints which makes every thing move smother when going over the terrain,when it come to its road manors they are very good indeed due to two things, one because it has ball joint's an normal bushes (an not really soft bushes to compensate for the lack of proper movement when taken past where LR intended) so it has very positive feed back as well as very good control over the axels, two the caster angle stays the same though out the movement from bump stop to 14" of drop which stops the loading of the steering which stops it trying to steer its self when it articulates (ie same as body roll on the road and a god send if you run a heavily off set wheel), making it easy to handle at any speed on the road, I regularly sit at,,,, erm 70,, ish in the fast lane of motorways in my v8 disco without being scared for my life if I hit a cats eye!

    Just incase people think this kit is something that has been cobbled together in a shed, it has been in development for over two years by a team with over 60 joint years of experience in several engineering sectors. We also have several other kits in the pipeline, the two kit that were at Peterborough show are just the stock bolt on kits for RRC, disco1 and defender up to but not including the puma,

    There will be another editorial by TOR later this year with the defender kit an the challenge kit, I'm hoping this will put to rest any more question of build quality or the pedigree of were it came from but if anyone would like to know any thing about it please feel free to ask rather then just guessing an then having a good old slating session.

    If you've got this far without getting board, thanks to tho's who put sensible points across, I'm all for discussion so long as its not a slanging match,

    Cheers

    Gordon Jackson

    4xForce

    Hi Gordon, I wonder if you would consider posting some data on the kit. I think it may usefull to me and others to know what we expect to get from the it in regards to things like anti-drive %, and instant centre, ect.

    Cheers Mark

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