SmasherWebbs
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Posts posted by SmasherWebbs
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Well its looking like the seriesIII doors are 1/4 the price as the nornal defender ones and noise can be dampend with a bit of insulation. Got to sound proof the whole cab anyway at some point so might as well do the doors too.
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Right so far i have worked out (this really hurt my head!!)
2X
Series 3 doors, glased top and bottom with locking latch:
Paddocks = £273.48 +VAT and delivered (not sure if they are burst doors!!!)
Mode = £244.04 + VAT and possibly £30 delivery (burst proof doors)
1X
Defender Door unglased no latch (got all i need already)
Paddocks = £318 +VAT delivered
Mode = £244.80 +VAT +£30 delivery
Mode door!!
http://modelandrover.com/products/defender-door-push-handle-lr703
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Those skins are the same price at other places if search by part number by the looks of things.
http://modelandrover...nder-door-skins
Two part numbers shown, are they one for lift up handles and one for push button? Can't see why one door style is double the price of the other though ....
Got me in a muddle to. One is just the skin the other is the skin and frame.
Scrapyard?
If you can find me a GOOD pair of doors in a scrap yard i will marry you tomorrow (dont pretend you wouldnt like that)
wheres the £240 door, i can find it. just had quick look, have you seen the price of the cross members?!
spoke to them on the phone today.
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Dum ass moment. I was thinking whole door. Still not bad for skin and frame £240.
Anyone know of anywhere better?
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I have just found a company in London that sound almost to good to be true.
Two front door skins in Ali delivered for less than £200. (£79 a skin) Thats almost £100 cheaper than anyone else!!
Has anyone used them before?
Would like to know the good bad or ugly??
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Great I will have a look thanks
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Yeh well i need new doors as mine are falling out the bottom and are beyond repair. Just trying to work out the best way and cheapest way to do it.
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yes well what can i say. lol
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anyone have examples of the other colours for defenders
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thats a gold star for you
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I am under the understanding that series door will fit on to a defender.
Getting new doors and i hear that series door are much cheaper with the loss of the wind up window. Not that bothers me.
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Does anyone know what colour this is or WAS.
Thinking to do a all over touch up and would like to know where the best place is to get the paint.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinwebber/7175539770/in/photostream
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Have a look on reed's they might have what your looking for.
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Mother lives in Lincoln and I 2pac'd and then slapped the wax oil on mine. Worth the effort of getting filthy you wont have to do it again for a looooong time.
2pac is ok direct to light rust as it warms due to chemical reactions and forces water out.
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It will probably be like any other 90 then.
Over the crossmember then to a large silencer from there directly back and over the rear axle to a small muffler between the rear left wheel and mud flap
all in one direct line.
I only have the small box on the back of my rust steel system but if your doing it in stainless you might need a bit more noise suppression.
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I have just 2 pack my engine bay in a dashing moave (looked more pink by the time it was dry) and then put a top coat of hammerite black
http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinwebber/7175553030/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinwebber/7175528278/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinwebber/7175509674/in/photostream/
Its up to you what you paint but i would only do axles if you were spending alot of time in salt water otherwise I wouldnt worry.
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You should get on your back with a small hammer and have a look under the back. You best hope that the bottom is not as bad. Either way your going to need to replace the whole cross piece (box section) as welding that patch is no longer possible due to rust!!
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Also if you planning on making it a daily run about removing the visco fan and suround to replace it with a small electric fan will improve your MPG by ALOT and cool the engine better!!!
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Ive just done a engine change on my 1988 TD. If your stripping the chassis back why dont you slap some 2 pack on (paint for metal boats). Belive me it better than any waxoil as mud and road dirt cant stick to it very well. Alot of work but worth it if u dont want to climb under every year.
Also check your shock tops (under the bonnet two plastic blisters/covers) had a shock to find one of mine were knackered yesterday.
And flexy break hoses just after calipers. cheap and easy fix often over looked.
Anywhere hard to get to is always worth looking at or at least slapping some paint on!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Its all down to your own piece of mind how much you want to do.
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Hey that link is magic!
thanks for that
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Just fitting 300Tdi gearbox and want to know the ratio. And one knowthe final drive?
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If your electrics are earth to body just remove that . Probably one heavy duty cable running from alt to chassis this is normally the case.
And if your working on your battery box im assuming your taking the battery out anyway so thats disconnected??
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have you ever considered a high lift jack??
I have one and can lift my entire 90 in 2 mins flat without breaking a sweat or bending my back!
And if your going off road it fits in the back no problem.
http://www.hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks/cast-steel.html
I would invest in some axle stands if your doing alot of work under the landy.
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Winch 2000lbs £90.85
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
Spotted this today not bad price for 2000lbs winch
http://modelandrover.com/products/winch