Reiny

Domestic radiators are unheard of in this part of the world mate It never gets cold enough to use them

Tried it out this morning and I think everything is back to where it should be. During the past few days, during my 5 mile trip to work, temperature would reach approx 85 degrees. This morning, needle climbed to a tad over 70. So I think all's sorted now thanks for your tips.

I bought a complete unit made by allmakes and was a bit disappointed. One of the hoses leaked slightly from the crimp. I cable-tied it as a temporary fix. Tomorrow I'll remove the pipes again, cut the crimp and fit a proper hose clip. Temperature-wise, I don't think that I have experienced much difference. I trashed the old girl hard for about 5-6 miles. There were no hills though. Temp reached approx. 85 degrees and stayed there. I need to try it on a couple of steep hills to put my mind at rest.

You took the words right out of my mouth Snagger. I was going to ask what those hoses are for and yes I believe that they are blocked. The ends were split so i trimmed them, then i had a hard time to fit them because there was a layer of lime scale (or whatever it was). Can i use fuel hose? if so, what's the diameter?

My thoughts exactly. Thanks for clarifying Jad.

Another thing. I have read time and time again to set the heater to hot when filling the system. Admittedly I forgot to do that this time and it was on the cold setting. why should setting it to hot help eliminate air locks?

wow! great idea! will try it.

I removed and re-installed my engine for a clutch change last week. everything went without a hitch but I am a little bit concerned about engine temperature. The engine seems to be reaching operating temperature much quicker than it did of late. For instance, on my daily commute to work (approx 5 miles - 20 to 25 minutes drive depending on traffic) the temperature rarely rises above 70 degrees. Today I got to work and the needle was around the 85 degree mark. Hoses are warm (not hot) to the touch. Furthermore in winter, the needle usually sits spot on the 80 degree mark. During the past 3 days or so it's sitting closer to the 90 degree mark (pretty much what it does in summer). At no point (so far) did the temperature climb past 90 degrees even though I drove up a few steep hills. Should I start worrying? I am a stickler for engine temperatures and hate it when I see the temperature gauge climbing past the mid-way point. Something that may be worth noting... when I refilled the coolant I did what i normally do i.e. remove both filler plugs (radiator and thermostat housing), filled until coolant free of bubbles emerged from both orifices and siphoned off whatever was left in the reservoir above the half way mark. Two days later I removed the filler plug on the thermostat housing and no coolant poured out. i topped the reservoir up by less than half a litre and it overflowed again. Do you think I have an airlock somewhere?

Thanks a lot western. Job's done

Ok so now engine's on the floor and the cause of all the grief is clear. Fork is cracked badly from thrust bearing end (i would post a picture but i don't know how). Need some more advice please. How on earth does one fit the clutch fork? I've found loads of info regarding the replacement of clutch plate and pressure plate but next to nothing with regards to the clutch fork. I know that i read something about "pear shaped clips" and "copper slippers" somewhere. I only found one "copper slipper" still attached to the fork. The rest must have fallen off and slipped through the wading plug hole. i would be very grateful if I could get some tips with regards to refitting.

Quick update. Everything is now undone and I am only awaiting delivery of a new engine crane this afternoon. My engine is out of a discovery, hence has no lifting eyes. I fabricated a couple of lifting eyes using 6mm flat bar and bolted them to an 8mm hole just to the left of the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine and to a similar hole on the rear end of the engine (to which the wiring loom bracket is usually bolted). Do you think that that's ok? I'm a bit reluctant to put all that weight on 2 x 8mm bolts.

Defo not a hydraulic fault. Pedal travelled the full length when I opened the bleed nipple up. removed slave cylinder and found the pushrod to be practically flush with the bell housing (i.e. it's stuck somewhere). I spent a couple of hours undoing all that could be undone. Shall buy an engine crane tomorrow and lift it out.

That's exactly what I'm concerned about. The clutch fork was beefed up in 2008. I think the symptoms are rather strange.

I was driving along minding my own business when suddenly, the clutch pedal on my 300tdi 90 became really soft and started biting just an inch off the floorboard. at first I thought it was tired master cylinder seals but some time later, the pedal went to the floor and stayed there. I helped it up, pressed it again and it would only travel half the way down (with no resistance). Am I right in thinking that the fork has been punctured? just over 3 years ago the pressure plate warped and the pedal displayed the same symptoms (i.e. it only travelled half the way down but it had a degree of resistance). Furthermore, I have never removed an engine before. My 300tdi is off a disco, hence it has no lifting eyes. Where do I lift it from?

Interesting indeed Jim. Please share size of the shorter belt.

It was beyond economical repair. A nice shiny one replaced it

same symptoms on both hence I believe that both have the same problem. Anyway, one of them is being repaired and shall be ready tomorrow.

Swapped alternators and trust my luck, spare one was dead too! I'm not a happy chappy.

When my bearings collapsed, the alternator wouldn't spin and stopped the engine in the process! Should that happen today, I'll just call a tow truck. It's a free service for members anyway. It's just that I don't feel like waiting for it and spannering this afternoon. Last working day of the year should be celebrated with booze not grimy hands and skinned knuckles!

Thanks a lot Pete. I'm hoping that it's not the bearings. Last time they collapsed, I was left stranded (which was what prompted me to purchase a second hand spare alternator) when I was driving to my workshop to remove the damned thing. Hope it gives me 20 minutes to get home.

The battery warning light on my 300tdi 90 has suddenly decided to remind me that it's still alive. I was driving along when I realised that the dash lights flickered for a second or two (I was driving with headlights on), followed by the battery warning light. Stopped to investigate but was dressed for work so couldn't really delve in. Anywway, continued my journey to work with no further trouble apart from having a bright red battery warning light stare me straight in the eye. I know that it's probably the alternator's brushes and rectifier pack but what's worrying me more is the fact that on a few occasions, the indicators brightness seemed to be weak and there were two occasions when the engine almost stalled (radio flickered on and off too). Seemed to me like the stop solenoid was not getting power. Battery is brand new with lots of juice left in it. What should I start looking at? I happen to have a spare alternator at home so I'll swap that over for starters. Should I be worried about anything else?

If you've done it before you shouldn't have such a hard time to gain access again

Removing the timing belt and all the stuff pertaining to it will only take and extra hour or so.

that's what i'm looking for. thank you.

Can anyone give me the correct part number for a RHD instrument binnacle? I've scoured the net but just cannot find it!