Reiny

I don't want to be a wet blanket mate but you'll be doing this often! They shear constantly!

Hahaha this is hilarious! Keep the posts coming!

I remember reading an article about this once. Apparently very early OneTens were referred to as Stage IIs (since they were the next step after the Stage One).

Thanks for the tip Les. I'm a bit afraid to undo the drain plug in the block because I've never done so. I usually drain the last couple of litres by removing the water pump. Are drain plugs known to shear?

I replaced the water pump in April 2008. Engine covers approx 10k miles annually. I think it's the water pump that's gone (can't think of anything else really). I'll just buy another one and replace it. It's not neither expensive nor difficult. Shall I change the p-gasket again?

Thanks for the tip. I'll have a look tomorrow. Can it be seen from below? Isn't the power steering pulley in the way?

My 300 has developed a coolant leak and it's doing my head in. A few months ago I started to find a few drops on the floor and it turned out to be the p-gasket. There was the usual tell-tale sign of coolant running down the side of the block behind the water pump housing. I replaced the p-gasket some 3 weeks ago, checked the housing for corrosion because I was warned that it would probably have to be filled and skimmed, there was none, I checked for warping, there was none. I re-assembled the whole thing and all seemed to be fine. A couple of days later I found a few drops on the floor again (even smaller quantities than previously), I rechecked but couldn't find the trace of dried coolant behind the housing so all I did was swear a lot and left it be. This evening, when parking, i was alarmed to see a few drops hitting the floor beneath the front axle. I had a quick look with a torch and found the front of the engine a little bit wet and saw that hte coolant was dripping off the power steering hose. From the top, everything seems to be dry however the lower 3 bolts of the water pump seem to be wet (they've been like that for a long time (probably ever since I changed the coolant pump over 3 years ago). Can anyone pinpoint the blasted leak? Do you think it's the pump? For the record,I didn't remove the water pump when I changed the p-gasket. i don't know if this makes any difference.

I constructed a small C-shaped trolley out of hollow section steel. The trolley sat at approximately the height that the axle usually sits on its wheels and fitted castor wheels on all four corners. The C-shape was made purposely in order to leave an end open to slide a trolley jack in and out of position as required. The diff nose rested on the closed end of the C. I managed to change both axles in a long day totally single handedly. The only help I required was to bleed the brakes (I never go the eezi bleed to work well, otherwise I would have managed without help from third parties). If I remember correctly, the A frame ball joint was a real bitch to remove. I removed it by removing the wheels and shock absorbers to help the axle hang down as far as it could and put maximum stress on the ball joint. Then I levered A-frame using an old front radius arm and gave it a single almighty wallop with a lump hammer.

I turn the engine over by jacking a front wheel up, engaging 5th gear and slowly rotating the wheel.

Thanks Maverick. Much appreciated.

Did you find a new one on ebay? What sort of description did you use to search for it?

I would like to replace the rubber mat that covers the bulkhead (surrounding the fuse box). I have been told that the LT77 type is no longer available. Is this true? I just can't find a replacement anywhere. a few years ago I was lucky enough to find a good used one from a totalled 110 but that has torn too.

Ok speedometer has been replaced but cable needs to be replaced too. I managed to remove the cable from the old speedometer without any hassle. Just a sharp tug. It clipped nicely into place on the new speedometer with a positve sounding "click" but now it just won't budge. I haven't got enough strength in my fingers to pull it out. How on earth do I get round to removing it?

My speedometer has suddenly started to play up. It was totally fine and accurate until this afternoon, however the needle suddenly started to bounce all over the place, hovering around the 30mph mark when I was actually doing 50mph and the odometer only registered 9 miles when in reality I covered about 15 miles. I am also hearing a ticking sound coming from the back end of the speedo. What do you reckon it may be? The cable or is the head a gonner?

Jack up one wheel, engage 5th gear and rotate the wheel slowly, keeping your eyes on the rockers.

You're the man! Thanks a lot. Another daft question. Do I take up the slack with the hand brake engaged or not?

Can anyone explain to me, in layman's terms, how I should go about adjusting the hand brake on an R380 gearbox? Over the years, it has progressively lost its bite and is now only holding the vehicle on a slight incline on the last click. I guess the cable is stretched.

Capacity is 6.85 litres (6 in the sump, 0.85 in the filter).

Hahahaha loved your reply. just dip your finger into it and taste it Rain being so scarce in sunny Malta, any fluid beneath a vehicle spells one thing.... sizeable hole in the wallet.

May I suggest something really stupid? Have you tried to taste the water, just to know if it's coolant or ordinary water?

Try to get an assistant. Remove the nut. Wedge a crowbar / stout pipe anywhere you can get some decent leverage, get your assistant to put all his weight on it, crawl underneath and belt the A-frame on the ball joint end. Usually one carefully aimed blow shows it who's boss.

If you have access to a welder and some hollow section, fabricate a little trolley on castor wheels and put the axle on it. You can then manoevre it into position with minimal fuss. I had never replaced axles before and recently replaced them single handedly in one day using this trolley.

Thanks Western. In fact my engine (and alternator) are ex-discovery items.

I want to fit the heat shield to the alternator on my 300tdi. I bought the heat shield but it came without the required spacers and the local dealer does not stock the spacers. Has anybody bought them recently online? If so, could I please have the part number? They seem to be rather elusive.

I second that. Happened to me. Alternator seized and engine stopped! Just remove the drive belt and try again.