alex park

ok, just tried it again, when i turn the sidelights on and test it, it flashes up 9.4. when i turn them off it retuns to 1. when i put on th hazzards it again flashes up 9.4 and returns to zero again once i turn them off. with just the multimeter leads in line it just continues to say 1. i obviously flattered myslef when i did the alarm spider, this has brought me back down with a bump lol

yes have done that, moved the leads over, connected battery positive terminal to battery positive cable, then positive mm lead to neg battery cable and neg mm lead to neg battery terminal. just keeps bringing up a 1 like this i'm just about at witts end now. bloody thing. strange it just decided to do it..

well im just scratching my head here. some petrol and a match are dangerously close.

well i let the battery rest overnight after being fully charged and it has not shown any drop in voltage whatsoever. it shows 12.8v. It was disconnected all night. if it had been connected it would definitley have been flat. this does point to a drain. I'll double check the multimeter. i'm just wondering if that when i had the initial problem of the car turning over but the fuel not being pumped thru. when i pressed the manual button on the inertia switch it may have stayed in contact and be draining it this way? thanks for the help. this is infuriating. i would love to take it to a auto electrician, but unfortubately i cannot afford it at the moment. i'll persevere. Alex to to check that i'm using the multimeter the right way. i am set on 10A

thanks for that. i have left the battery on charge all day and have left it unconnected overnight to see if it discharges the charge overnight. thanks for all your help. Alex

thanks i think i will do that. what's the best way to check if the battery is duff?

bloody thing..... thought i had it sorted, but just checked and its dead again

chraged up the battery with all the leads off then checked as requested with multi meter for a drain. there was nothing showing up as a drain whatsoever. the car started no problem with the battery charged and showed 14.09v over the battery terminals and similar at the back of the alternator. I'm pretty sure it's not the battery being a dud although won't rule it out, even if the battery is flat there's normally just enough juice to open the doors or operate the alarm isn't there? which leaves me to think that there might be an immobilser problem, maybe i'm just clutching at straws? Alex

hi, i have my multimeterready, can you tell me exactly how to check for the culprit. thanks battery has always been strong and never had any problems with it. thanks alex

i have a 1997 disco v8 efi with lpg conversion. about 6 months ago it developed a starting problem which kept isolating the fuel pump. with the help of the forum i traced it to the "alarm spider" and succesfully followed the fantastic thread which showed how to sort the problem. i bought the spider bypass part which effectively took out the problematic spider which had completely burnt out. two days ago i went to start the car and found that it was turning over and the fuel pump working but not starting. although it would appear to have been trying. scratching my head and reading some of the posts in the forum, i tried the inertia manual switch which cured the problem and the car started first time as usual. with no problems. the next morning i went to start it and found that the battery had drained so much it wouldnt even open the doors on the fob. no dash lights no nothing. a quick re-charge after taking the battery leads off and the engine fired up no problems. i left it recharging on the alternator for a while and turned it on and off to make sure it was charging as it should be. with the engine running it was showing over 13v across the battery terminals so the alternator was working. but again i go to it this morning and find it dead. I'm thing that there must be a serious drain somewhere that will drain this much. any ideas? whist i am faily mechanically minded, the elctrical side i'm not great at. thanks in advance Alex

Does anyone have a schematic of where the brake pipe is routed on a 97 disco v8? Juts replacing the full copper pipe system with 3/16. I'm sure it's gonna be a bitch tho. Alex

i had thought that this problem may have something to do with the SPIDER having read the tutorial provided in the FAQ section. That would explain the faults all from one place. Where abouts is the F3 Fusebox? thanks Alex

i have a 98 3.9V8i which has been converted for LPG. very recently the car was running happily on LPG then without warning switched to petrol.(this doen'st normally happen automatically). then all the lights on the LPG gauge went out but the car still ran on petrol. When i stopped the car i tried to start it again but it wouldn't start on either petrrol or lpg, the starter turned the engine over fine but there was no fuelling. the problem was diagnosed by the AA as a faulty wire from a solenoid which switched the injectors between petrol and LPG. he replaced this and it ran fine. however a short time later i was running on petrol and switched over to GAS this imediatly stopped the engine and the car coasted to a halt. this time there was no power between the fuse box in the drivers footwell and the ignition coil. We managed a temporary fix of wiring the coil direct from the battery which helped get me home, but i'm stuck as to where to go from here. All the ignition lights come on with the turn of the key as per usual, and i can hear the relay in the passenger footwell when i turn the key fully as if to start the car. Anyone any suggestions as to where to go from here? Alex