alex park

Dunno, but scared myself to death looking around the NET for a clutch fork. looked on this site and went through all the ordering process until it showed me the picture of what i was ordering..... clutch fork i just hope they got the picture wrong. Alex

The soundtrack to Bourne Ultimatum. AWESOME Alex

Jusr browsing through and read this write up about the preparation for overseas expeditions. It would be an invaluable aid to anyone planning any overseas expeditions in their Landy. Overseas Desert Expeditions Alex

not if Sharon Stone has been sat slithering around inside it I'll get my coat Alex

thanks very much for that Les. looking at Mr Ashcrofts website (who i know is well respected on this forum and through the industry). It states that the V8 clutch fork does not wear on the V8, but even on here there seems to be quite a number that do. Ashcroft Borg & Beck Clutch Alex

normally on bulkhead hidden behind the washer bottle. alex

one thing i was thinking of that may benefit the forum is regarding the forum courier service. If anyone regularly travels along a specific corridor or route and they would be willing to assist they could put up a list. i for instance travel between Hull-S****horpe most days and then Hull Wakefield weekends etc. this could be done regionally etc. Alex haaaaa i can't believe it won't let my type Sc unthorpe properly.

the other option is to have ONE point of contact, anyone who feels comnforatble giving a contact number or an email address could give it to the "contact person". If anyone wishes to contact somebody from the forum then they have to go through the "contact person" first. It's a bit convaluted, but could work. My opinion is that you should keep as much of your personal information to yourself as possible. I've seen lots of identity theft problems and its quite easy in all reality. Pm's within the forum are surely enough and this lets everyone decide what info they wish to give out person to person instead of more openly. Alex and that was Funny LES

maybe all that bumping has knocked the ignition isolator and is causing it to temporarily make contact when driving and accellerating Pux. mine did the same thing, started doing that then one morning just didnt want to go. changed all sorts before i pushed the manual ignition isolator reset and it worked a treat.. its behind the washer on the bulkhead on my v8 disco. Alex

Les, in the picure i have arrowe what i believe you mean about tie wrapping the clips on. can you tell me if those are the areas you mean. As the fork acts on a pivot and pulls the thrust bearinf ect is it essential to get the tiewarps in the correct position to make sure that they pull it back equally in the proper direction. clutch thanks in advance Alex

still looks a quality job les.

when i bought the car from a dealer a few years ago, it developed this "niose and lack of clutch friction" a very short time after buying from the dealer. it wasnt a main landrover dealer but a 4x4 dealer non the less. I lost all drive except in low range and the closest place i could get too was a main landrover dealer in HULL. whilst there i contacted the initial dealer and complained like hell (it was only a week after all) and he told me that he would collect it from the Main dealer and sort it out. The main dealer already had the box out and told me it was a broken clutch fork cuasing the problem. so.... i informed the initial dealer who replaced the clutch. the noise soon returned however. stupidly perhaps i didnt return it to the initial dealer as i was so frustrated. but learnt to live with it. so, all fluid are ok. gearbox has ATF dextron 3 transfer box has ep90. so if i'm gonna drop the box out and replace the clutch, what actual parts will i need to buy. and where is the best place to get them. and what other components would be recommended to be changed/upgraded if the box is out? thanks for the input everyone

so new clutch, release bearing. i thought maybe the mainshaft bearing or layshaft might have been worn? forgive my ignorance. alex

engine and gearbox out? recon box and new clutch?

Having just sorted out my elctrical drain on my battery, i thought it was about time i took a look at a problem that i have had with the car for a while. It is a Disco v8 97 with i believe the R380 gearbox. the Problem on start up the box sounds rattly and once the revs have dropped to idle there is a continuous grumble from the gearbox which dissappears when i depress the clutch. however on some occasions it does not dissappear but is exacerbated and sounds like gears are trying to intermesh. however pumping the clutch will more often than not make this go away. once the revs are settled the car goes into all gears fine however once i start lets say reversing out of my drive and have to dip the clutch to stop for traffic the gears sound like they are again failing to mesh properly and grind like hell, to a point where i have to take it out of gear, lets the revs settle and try again. once driving steadilly i have no problems other than it sounds grumbly in second gear and fourth gear more so than the rest. approaching any red lights or stop signs and i have to dip the clutch, there again is the sounds of the gears not meshing and the revs rise, where again i have to take it out of gear and let the revs settle. I'm fortunate (or unfortunate) that i have no need to drive this week or next but have decided to buy a cheap runnabaout cos i have to go back to work soon. any clues as to what may be the cuplit or is it a multitude of sins? i know the clutch was changed about 50k ago,the milage has all been motorway and no offroading in it. Alex

actually died of "drowning" not dronwing which i believe is associated with bird flu

that wouldnt happen in uk, there only needs to be a suspicion that you are the driver, have driven or about to drive. and it's "blow into this mouthpiece please" also its worth noting that being in posession of your keys, near your car whilst drunk can lead to this suspicion. heres one fool that didnt make it round a bend and ended up upside down in a ditch. The driver unforunately died of dronwing. an autopsy found him to be 4 times the limit. what a waste of life... simple answer is dont do it. period alex

i ran a suplly from the relay to the pump on my v8i which worked out ok and switched off with the key. then found out later it was the ignition isolator that had tripped. Alex

sorted,,,, all seems done now other than finding the fiddly short in the auxillery fuse circuit for the trailer lights. but the main part with the massive drain is done thank god i hear you groan. I couldnt have done it without the help of all those that contributed to the thread, and a big thank-you to Sotal and Guy H for not giving up on me. a contribution to the forum has been made Alex

fuel pump relay was f***kd. replaced it and hey presto the fuse goes in without sparking. just hope that the battery holds it's charge now and i will have found out whats been giving the headache. alex

i think i may have a breakthrough (anyone feel free to burst my bubble however) the only fuse that put puts any drain on the battery when i replaced them in the engine bay fuse box was the fuel pump fuse. it also sparked when i replaced it. i have just replaced all the fuses other than this one (and the trailer lights one) and will see how it stays. alex

well with all the engine box fuses removed, the battery has remained charged. SO... i think i will put them all back save for the alternator one and the ignition circuits one and see where we go from there. does the 100amp alternator fuse just control that particular circuit or others also and.. same with the ignition circuits fuse, are there other circuits that this controls? alex

right well its getting dark now, so i have taken all the fuses from the engine fuse box for tonight. we'll see how that affects things in the morning.

i think i may have found something. when i had the trailer lights fuse out (which we thought was the problem) this is obviously on the same circuit as the interior light, the heater and the clock as they no longer worked. however when i was checking the amps on the interior light(which showed 0.35 or 4-5w) with the help of some advice from Guy H. i noticed that the clock would keep flickering on especially when i turned the interior light switch to the on position... do you think this could be part of the problem.?

would love to bring it down, unfotunately i'm not bale to drive yet, well not supposed to anyway. plus i think i'm gonna be hung by the wires that i will shortly be ripping out if i cant sort out this drain. alex