sixtwoeight

Bet that would be tricky! I'm at this stage now. (pics below) My concern is knowing what looks ok and what doesn't, I guess my broken springs that were in the sump should be easy enough to see, but wondering about my 1st gear issue. Time will tell.

I bought a project a few months ago, it needed a new half chassis, have put in new brake lines, bushes, rod ends, fuel tank, carb, free'd off and cleaned brakes etc...thought id nearly done and now the gearbox has issues and possibly engine problems as well. So all in all has cost more money and time than I thought, but that's par for the course with cars isn't it? If you enjoy it and have the time space and money, then crack on. As for the cost of buying, I don't know, mine was more than yours anyway! Good luck.

Looks like I have no choice but to strip it and learn in the process of doing so. Yes it is the drain plug. Thanks for your help.

Didn't find the ball but did find these, can you identify them? (obviously one is a tooth)

The pump just has a hose out the back to connect whatever you want. So I took the pump off and the control lever and found the castle nut, the locktab was doing it's job and the nut seemed tight - I couldn't get it tighter. But I have noticed on reassembling everything that the selector rod cover has a brass plug with a spring underneath, now should there be a ball bearing between the spring and the selector rod??? I'm not sure whether there never was one or whether it dropped out without me seeing it or there shouldn't be one? .

Thought I start a specific thread for another one of my problems... On running the engine for the first time in many years, it smoked a lot and smelled fumey. It has a new carb which I adjust the mixture by using a vacuum gauge and the choke is functioning. I did a compression test this morning and the results are. 1980 2 1/4 petrol ENGINE COLD. DRY WET (small amount of oil in bores) 1 185 200 2 160 170 3 170 180 4 160 170 To me number 1 seems high but don't know why it would be? Any cause for concern in your opinions?? Thanks

Ok so its not the teeth then, I suppose I was clutching at straws. The pump is indeed on the back, so I will take that off and hope my problem is there rather than internally. Many thanks for your help. Replied, and thanks.

I have taken the top off the gearbox and everything to my untrained eye looks ok with the springs and balls, the springs seem to have good tension. I don't know the correct terminology so apologies for that but here goes. Looking at the middle selector shaft (for first and second), and looking back down into the box the selector fork locates onto a ring with internal teeth, the teeth are not the shape I would have thought, although they do look regular so wondering whether it looks correct or not.

A rip off, yeah it's complete pain having to 're host, find photos etc.. No worries The main shaft nut accessed through the pto hole, I have a dowty hydraulic pump so I dont think i can get to that without removing the pump?? .

Thanks gazzar I will try that today. I was searching last night and found a thread which I think was by you, which was rebuilding a series 3box but very annoyingly photobucket has well and truly ruined it. I'm guessing you don't have the time/inclination to rehost the photos?

Only been on a gravel farm track so far. I will have a search for what the selector detents look like as I havnt a clue! Many thanks for your replies.

Thanks again, il check the compression. I cannot feel the gear lever pushing back against my hand, it only needs a little pressure to hold it there. Il obtain the missing parts for the 4 wheel drive selection lever before I jump to any more conclusions.

Thanks for the reply, Its a brand new carb but I will check the choke, I have a feeling its burning oil, anything I can do? I assume the MOT man wont like it? what sort of a job is it to replace the detent springs? Yellow knob, The spring and the small cover where the lever comes through are missing, maybe I'm jumping the gun a bit if they aren't fitted? Il jack it up tomorrow and see if it engages. Does anyone have any pictures of how the lever should look with the spring etc..?

1980 Series 3, has been unused for nearly 30 years, I have replaced the rear half chassis, recomissioned brakes and generally tidied it and thought I was home and dry. Drove it for the first time today and when engaging first gear 95% of the time unless you hold the gear lever forward it will half jump out of gear when pulling away leaving a gear on gear grating sound, reverse engages nicely and pulls away no problem. As far as I can tell all other gears seem ok. Any ideas on the problem? Low range works ok. Yellow knob..the external linkage moves but it doesn't seem to positively engage anything, moving from hi to low and back does not release the yellow linkage, so it isn't doing whatever it should internally?? Where do I start with that? Any pointers will be appreciated...oh the engine smokes, a lot....? (Oily, petroly not white). Thanks

I bought a sykes pickavant one, Ive not heard a bad review about them.

Just to update, I splashed out and bought a decent flare tool and did it myself, easier than I thought so Thanks for the advice.

Thanks once again, very useful info. Cheers.

It does seem the sykes pickavant flaring tool is the go to tool so il keep an eye out for one. Cheers.

Thanks for the useful info, much appreciated. If anyone has any good or bad things to say about any of the flare tools it would be good to hear. Thanks

Well that's that then, I'll make them myself! I think I was put off as heard that the cheaper flare tools are not good and i didn't want to spend loads on a flare tool.

I want to buy a complete set of new brake pipes in readiness for its mot. (once ive completed welding in the new half chassis) Having searched there are a couple of suppliers doing the set for a fair price but there seems to be a change of the system in July 1980. One of the suppliers lists pre july 1980 as single circuit and post july 1980 as dual circuit - is that correct? and possible unf to metric changes as well? Mines a may 1980 88", it has a dual circuit m/c on a servo. - this doesn't coincide with the above info. I obviously want to get the correct set for lengths, no of pipes and thread size, so in your opinions what threads should I have? I would say mine is all original as its been off the road for soooo long. Do I still order a pre july 1980 set? Appreciate any information.

I think it is this caution that i and others have seen and therefore assumed the fill plug is not also the level.. Anyway from all your replies it appears i am wrong! I shall top it up as necessary - cheers

Hi all, Ive had a search and it seems that the fill plug is not also a level plug which seems a stoopid idea - anyway without draining out all the oil and re filling with the correct amount, does anyone know where the oil level should be in relation to the fill plug. I only want to top it up as has all been serviced fairly recently. Thanks

Defeinately worth the saving if you have the time or inclination?

Lots of interesting methods here, so whatever works for you and what tools you have around will dictate which method.