sixtwoeight

Looking good!

Does sound a lot IMHO, im also on the look out for a D2 but with a smaller budget.

Ok, so I think I need to start a thread to find out the correct procedure for bleeding the brakes with ABS. As my previous thread suggests, im having problems bleeding them. So far ive only bled them with the ignition off - I gather this maybe incorrect. What else don't I know...? Thanks all.

With all the welding done (for now!) I've replaced the master cylinder to try and cure the very spongy pedal with excessive travel, but to no avail. I am not convinced that the brakes are bleeding very well though. The rears are especially bad, the fluid wont flow out of the bleed nipple. I have got ABS, and I have read that it need a dealer to bleed due to the ABS solenoid valves???? So the pedal is slightly better but it still doesn't feel as good as I would expect.. Anyone know how to bleed with ABS. ( I was using a pressure bleeder, but the fluid didn't flow through into the reservoir so air was drawn in) Any ideas anyone..

Thanks for the reply maverick, will do what you suggest. Anyone any ideas on abs light? Have searched for blink test, but no results? edit: found info on blink test, also seems the wheel sensors can play up if not in correct position and or clean, so now have a starting point. Thanks

Thanks Disco_al, its a 1996, the pedal just feels soft and goes way too far down in my opinion. What is the blink test??

Hello all, Im in the middle of sorting the rot at the ends of the sills out and body mountings......Whilst im doing that I am trying to gather some info into the brakes situation before I start on them. The pedal is very soft but the brakes do work - although obviously wouldn't trust them - The brake fluid reservoir is upto level and I cant see any leaks. I will try bleeding the brakes first (surely though air can only get in if there are leaks??). Also will check vacuum leaks on servo, but those two things are about as far as I have thought. Also the abs light is on -havnt a clue where to start looking on that. Any ideas will be much appreciated.

Thanks for the tips Boydie. Well, had an hour on it this afternoon, you're right, the bolt does come out, but its a beatch. No amount of levering would position the bolt far enough away from the floor to enable the bolt to come out....step in BFH, smacking the old mangled mounting or what was left of it got the bolt out, I guess the new bolt has to go in but at the moment I would say it wont. Still, got the welding to worry about first..... Cheers

Thanks Marten, that's good knowing that there is room to get the mounting out and the new one in, without too much hassle, Cheers

Hi, just picked up an MOT failure disco 300tdi. Chassis is in very good clean condition, but inner and out sills have started to go at the rear of them, by the body mounting bracket. I may have the wrong end of the stick but in order to get the mount out (once the bolt is undone/cut) surely the body needs to be raised? Or a hole cut in the floor? as the bolt passes down from the top. I did a quick search but couldn't really find out. Someone set me straight please.... Thanks in advance

Evening all, Im after opinions please, whether to try and sell or break my p reg disco, its got 156k, 6 months MOT, new turner head and gasket 2k ago. Been excellent but i change my cars more than my underpants! (not quite, ive owned the disco for 18months). It went through the last Mot no probs but its getting a bit scabby, although if i spent a day on it im sure it wouldnt be so bad. It will need 2 front tyres soon, the chassis has been patched previous to me owning it. All in all its been excellent but i want a 110 now. I guess the point is, i dont really want put a couple of new tyres on it and spend a day cleaning and beautifying it for time wasters to come round, and er...waste time. How much do you think i could break it for or sell it for complete (i know you havnt seen it). Any thoughts and opinions will be gratefully received. Cheers

Teabag gets the golden star Thanks for all input though.

Thanks very much Les and Bogmonster, prompt and to the point, cheers.

Hi everyone, My 1997 disco just failed its MOT on the dust covers for track rod end ball joint. The tester showed me and yes they were split and perished on both sides. He called it the drag link - but it was on the longer track rod bar behind the axle (i thought the drag link was in front of the axle). can someone verify which is which please. Secondly, today I ordered 2 track rod ends, one LH thread and one RH thread, but am now wondering if: Are the trackrod ends the same for the drag link and the track rod bar? (i.e the two in front and the two behind the axle) They do look the same as far as i can see. Or are there different TREs for drag link and TREs for track rod bar? I just want to make sure I've got everything I need before I start doing them as its my daily driver. Thanks for any comments.

Thanks for the tips and good point bogmonster! Cheers

Thanks all so far, i filled as per the manual. I assume i do have air in the system then. To clarify, after running then cooling completely: Should header tank coolant be upto level peg AND thermostat housing will still be full of coolant?? Am struggling to see how the coolant will stay at different levels. Thanks again

Hi, my first post here so hope ive posted correctly. Thanks to this forum ive just changed head gasket and head on a 97 300tdi disco. When refilling the coolant is seemed difficult as the header tank has to be half full and the thermostat housing should be filled right up - these are at the same level, and water will obviously always sit level. I filled the header tank to the level peg then put the cap on, I then filled up the thermostat housing until it just overflowed. I ran the car upto operating temperature with no problems. Once cooled completely I re checked the level in the header tank - it was a touch above the level peg. Now my (silly) question, should the thermostat housing still be full of coolant?? Obviously water will always sit level, but is there something within the pipework to stop the coolant sitting level in the header tank and the thermostst housing? (water at level peg in header tank and full in thermostat housing) Thanks in advance for any comments