TSD
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Posts posted by TSD
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11 hours ago, Oakmaster said:
Q1 - is soldering Anderson 50A OK?
Not really, but that rarely seems to stop anyone
The problems come when using the correct size cable for the crimp, when it's difficult to get good solder penetration through the cable without melting all the insulation (so poor current handling), and if you manage it, the sharp change of stiffness in the cable (promotes breakage of the cable strands).
If you're making cables for trickle charging you'll likely be using undersize wire for the terminal, so soldering makes sense and isn't too hard if you've got a decent iron. Anderson does (or did at least) make reducing ferrules for crimping undersize wires into their terminals.
If you are using full size wire (i.e. that more or less fills the anderson terminal) then the Durite 'hammer' crimp tool (Durite 0-703-90) should be useable and isn't too spendy.
11 hours ago, Oakmaster said:Q2 - is there a affordable maintenence / trickle charger that auto resets? It needs to be afordable because there are 6 vehicles, and 3 associated spare batteries
If you want shiny, the CTEK 0.8 Motorcycle chargers are fine for the job, and cheaper than the 'big number' versions, though still not exactly cheap. I use a pair of them for exactly this job, but I didn't pay anything like list price.
These are worth a look at a more sensible price?
On past experience Mascot will be at least as well built as a CTek. The trader sells around various techie boot sales (think Sodbury with more wires). The units are used and probably a bit grubby, but a friend bought a couple last year and seems happy with them.
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Hope I'm wrong but when I had those exact symptoms, it turned out to be a crack in the head between the coolant jacket and #1 intake(?) valve port. When sat overnight it bled a little coolant into #1 cylinder that took a few seconds to be dispersed on startup. It wasn't visible on inspection, but showed up on a pressure test.
You could probably depressurise or even drain the coolant before the engine cools then see if it still misfires next day? Obviously running an engine with no coolant is a dumb thing to do, and even dumber if you tell your engine builder, and still expect them to sort it out for you afterwards
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When I first looked at 2Bex, years before I bought it, the radius arm to chassis brackets had been cut off, ready to be replaced with D2 parts. The original owner wanted the Watts linkage on the rear axle to improve the handling, and I think was going to go the whole hog with air suspension.
Maybe not the worst idea in the world. I've seen a 110 overlander with D2 axles and suspension, and that seemed to work really well in Morocco, but I didn't fancy the possible complication of going to IVA with suspension from a lighter vehicle.
Second owner had sourced and fitted replacement standard brackets from Foers. Much more attractive proposition from my point of view.
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17 hours ago, miketomcat said:
The way things are going a complete spare p38 stored in the south of England might be a good idea.
All you need is some gullible idiot with plenty of garden space who will fall for the 'just for a few weeks' ploy...
Aah... No... Hang on! <grabs coat> <runs>
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Coincidentally, I spent yesterday afternoon cnc milling ali parts to upgrade my 3d printer
(... and just to give FridgeFreezer a laugh, cos he's seen me do this before, the spring from the mechanism that I spent 3 hours looking for turned out to be sat on top of the circuit board when I turned it on
Oh well, at least it wasn't shorting the mains this time -
If you aren't planning to use it for jump starting, then a big Anderson connector is maybe a bit OTT. The PP15 (or 30/45) is much smaller and more than up to the job. But much as I like Anderson connectors, I'd prefer something better sealed or at least easier to seal, to keep the weather out. Any moisture that gets in there promotes corrosion when it is charging.
I have two isolated batteries to keep charged in each vehicle, so I have a 4-pin Amphenol C16 connector mounted on the rear body. The cable connectors are really well sealed, the chassis mount one seals well on the outside, and you can get screw on sealing caps for both for when they are not in use. Mine charges on the driveway all the time in all weathers and has shown no leaks at all in 5 years. I made a custom cable to connect one charger to each battery through the one cable. Not the cheapest, but worth it, at least for me.
If you don't have a switch inside the car, put a small fuse inline to prevent the gremlins bu66ering about while you're parked up. Fused just above the charger rating ideally. My trickle chargers only output an amp max, so 2A mini blades fuses work nicely.
Also, think up some method to prevent either forgetting to plug the charger in for months on end (done that
) and also prevent driving away with the charger plugged in (done that too 
).
If you have towing electrics with a constant 12v feed, you could always plug the charger in there instead? I did that on my D3.
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I've not been tracking the rumour mill closely, but this one was new to me... CTIS on the new Defender?
(Hope the URL works, the original published one contained the word 'oversteer' three times for some reason?
)
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At the very best, made by the manufacturer who supplies that part to LR. Doesn't mean it's the same part, or to the same spec.
As FF mentioned, I stripped two Bosch starter motors, one bearing the LR oval, one not. the LR badged motor had more, and more substantial, internal seals. It had a different solenoid design internally. There were other differences too. Some or all difference *may* be due to changes to product manufacture through time. I surmise the unbadged motor was not made to LR spec.
In some previous discussion on here, I looked in the GKN driveline catalogue at U/Js. There were about 4 different parts which would fit the 'common' LR application. None of them is the same part number as the part supplied by LR - that has it's own GKN part number and isn't listed in the general catalogue. Any of those parts will certainly be of high quality, but which one is the most suitable? The one listed for high speed use? Heavy duty? agricultural? I'm not qualified to guess and I don't have enough information to even try. I doubt random_bloke_on_ebay does either, but he can buy the cheapest one and call it OEM with no comeback. He can also buy GKN Driveline parts from some other market region (India, South America for example) where the available parts may be different, or made to different quality criteria.
(And that assumes the parts are genuine at all. There are fake transistors and integrated circuits on the market which in some cases are simply unmarked parts lasered with the current favourite part number. Not too much of a jump to imagine you could order a box of bearings with any manufacturer name you like lasered on.)
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I made some measurements earlier this year while looking at the heater design for 2Bex. At full chat the standard defender fan motor draws about 13A when fitted in the heater, and the Puma fan draws over 17A. But at the same airflow, they both consume roughly the same power. The suzuki motor & snail housing was also about the same, though I only tested it at lower speeds. Airspeed from the Puma motor at a given current was actually lower than the old defender motor, but the port area is larger, so more air mass in total.
I think you need a bigger snail and port into the heater box, or more motor power, or both. I don't think there's any big win to be had without one or the other.
(I measured, for each motor, current, rotor speed, port airspeed against supply voltage, and drew some simplistic conclusions from that)
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I had one of the late type props on the Ibex for a while, a long time back. It was new but aftermarket. One UJ failed in fairly short order and I shelved it as the large UJs were unusual and so really expensive at the time. A while ago I noticed the price had come down, so bought a replacement and moved the prop from 'scrap' pile to ''spares' pile.
I imagine the wider yoke means more bearing movement and hence better lubrication, provided there is lubrication available. Once there's no grease, they probably fail more quickly for the same reason.
If the larger type are better overall, the difference is probably not as big as the one between the best and worst UJs available in any one size. I would (and have) stuck with having the same size UJ throughout.
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On 9/16/2018 at 6:29 PM, western said:
its not a big deal, I've still got the existing seperate red led.
So does it work as intended with the original led and resistor?
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As designed the adjustment range should be roughly 11 to 15V (10.42 to 14.37V plus a diode drop for the pedants) , working from the schematic.
Have you checked the fitted component carefully, esp R1, R2. (It can be easy to confuse 470R with 4k7)
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Any old bit of wire will do. One of the cut-off legs from one of the resistors you just fitted is the traditional part to use
LM324 is a sturdy old beasty, will drive 2 leds without complaint
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With R15 replaced by a piece of wire, and connected to the speedo as I mentioned above, then no transistor needed, it should work as expected. It's possible the circuit cannot drive two leds safely though, what's the number on the top of the IC?
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Best not to use that on electronics, will be too many volts and/or too much current for some sensitive bits.
I just pulled a td5 speedo to bits to have a look, and I cant seen much evidence that the 12v feed to pin 6 of C1060 is used for anything other than the LED. So I would simply short out R15 on the velleman pcb and connec the led output to pin6 (positive) and pin 3 (negative) on the speedo. It probably works fine even with R15 left in, but it might be a bit dim in daylight. It almost certainly wont work with the second led in place, but it is easier than adding the transistor.
If you can solder, you could remove R15 (gently) from the board and replace it with a piece of wire. Then put R15 in the wire to the original led, in series with it. That way, both leds should work, both wired to the terminals as per the instructions.
Not sure I explained that very well....
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I think you're right, though I was thrown by the awful pcb
, just from following the tracking in the photo. If you've got a continuity checker, connect one lead to the led positive lead, then check both ends of each possible candidate, or just follow the tracking on the back of the board from the terminal block. The only component it connects to in the schematic is R15.
I will sketch on that photo a bit later on, to show how I would add the transistor.
And yes, you could probably keep the existing LED. but the mod I sent over will need to be a little bit different.
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Send me a PM with your address and I'll put a couple in the post, with some instructions?
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.... thinking about it, it might be simpler to just add a single transistor to the led output of the flasher, and use it to drive the td5 led as normal (which now Ive read it properly, is what the photo text is suggesting).
(oops, that was meant to be an edit to the above - obviously too tired to be in charge of a keyboard!)
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Definitely can be made to work, but it might need a little more than 'just connect..'.
1) The only diagram I have to hand has slightly different labelling of the C1060 connector. I think its only a naming thing, but I think the correct wiring would be to connect your unit to pin 6, and ground pin 3 of the speedo. Pin6 on your diagram in 12V constant, but my diagram suggests its only for the led, and that the td5 alarm grounds pin 3 to light the led.
2) As I recall the led in the speedo has a series resistor for 12V, so you probably need to short out R15 in your flasher unit.
I'm not 100% certain on either of these - if no-one else chimes in I'll check the details when I can, but it might be a few days.
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Given your list of previous cars, how would you even notice?
Get used to people in petrol stations wanting to chat at length about it, but only when you're in a hurry.
Also pulling up outside a pub 600 miles from home and someone immediately saying 'There's one like this that parks...' and explaining where you live/work.
(This happens far more often than I ever thought possible).
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As far as I can tell...
If you have a gen parts RRC cap you will probably need some simple electronics to drive the warning light.
If you use an aftermarket one you can probably use a small relay to do the job.
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Spoke too soon
I checked my notes and the filter head ports are M14x1.5. It's the injection pump inlet that is M12x1.5
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Doesn't the vac take-off for the dizzy need to be upstream of the throttle plate, otherwise the advance would be maximum at idle, instead of building rapidly as the throttle is opened?
With the drilling just above the throttle plate, the initial throttle opening movement moves the vac take off from atmos side to manifold side of the plate.
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Think they are M12. I bought some a couple of weeks ago, but I haven't got the bits or the order info to hand.
The problems come when using the correct size cable for the crimp, when it's difficult to get good solder penetration through the cable without melting all the insulation (so poor current handling), and if you manage it, the sharp change of stiffness in the cable (promotes breakage of the cable strands).
Oh well, at least it wasn't shorting the mains this time 
) and also prevent driving away with the charger plugged in (done that too 
).
)
(This happens far more often than I ever thought possible).
Is there an easy way to tell if I have diluted a bottle of coolant?
in International Forum
Posted
Hydrometer is of course the correct answer, as above.
Slightly more whimsically, dilute samples of both a bit more, and stick them in the freezer, see which freezes first
But if it were me, I'd just mix both bottles with 10L of water, and know I then had 20L of mix at somewhere between 33% and 50% which should be close enough for anyone...