TSD

Help is clearly needed...

Couldn't remember, so back to the big box of invoices... 8L of Etch Primer 3L of high build primer 10L of 2K Acrylic (YELLOW 😎) And that was more than enough of everything, to paint a LWB and a SWB, plus the fridge, my watch, phone, and in fact most of the workshop I think there was about 2.5L of topcoat left over, the only thing we ran short of was the HB primer. For some reason I only ordered a 1.5L can, so had to get another before we attacked the second truck a week later.

I'm aware of the YBE100540 sensor, and that electrically it's different to the more common YBE100530. I'm curious to know what gear fits the end of it, since the 'speedo gear' question pops up every now and again.

Every day a schoolday! Never seen one of those, any idea for a part number?

If I remember correctly, when you go to larger tyres than the standard 32", you move off the end of the range of available gears. So of the available gears, Blue is the nearest to correct. Of course, if all else fails, you can just fit whatever gear comes to hand, and reprogram the speedo to read correctly. Any chance a bit of the old speedo cable is stuck in the drive gear? I can't think why else it wouldn't fit, though I have found it a bit fiddly occasionally. As far as I've seen the speedo drive gears all have the same centre square.

I don't generally share my opinion of the Rover V8 here, as it runs the risk of being labelled as heresy on this forum.

Maybe it's just because I'm old and grumpy, but to me it seems a shame to go to all the effort of importing a nice 110 and then destroy a lot of its character by stuffing in a big V8 and a slushbox. Might as well go the whole hog and reproduce that rebodied Jeep monstrosity in the 'Pass the Bucket' thread Obviously depending on legalities, I'd still be thinking hard about a tdi, (or of course a 2.8TGV from the South American spec Ford Ranger). If lack of power really is the problem, for $10k it might be easiest and cheapest to keep all that power in another vehicle parked next to the 110 and make the choice each morning ...

Do you think the same problem might exist with the odd-fire V6 you suggested? Not sure if they all were but I'm sure the early ones I looed at back in the days of my v6 hybrid were.

Sounds perfect - and probably what mine runs on too, though I'm not certain - it's a repurposed old programmer I built for a customer, and I glued the box shut so I didn't get tempted to rob the SD card for something else I just looked at the code and realised it needed a freshen up for a modern RPi, so then I had to find a speedo to check it still works... but it all looks to be working now. Sent you a PM, check your inbox.

Either will do. I'd use the older pi, simply because it matters less if it all goes horribly wrong Get it set up with a keyboard and monitor, and Raspbian / RaspberryPi OS. The exact version doesn't much matter, either with a gui or without. Meanwhile I will find a big shovel and dig out the programming code...

The clip works fine, it's what I use. But if you can solder fine wires, and only have one speedo to adjust, it's probably not worth a fiver. I didn't use the eeprom programmer, so I can't comment on that. It's a slight oddball device, so it's possible some programmers wont support it. I used a raspberry pi instead, because it was in the drawer. Not as cheap if you don't have one to hand, but at least it's still useful for something else later. ten quid for a pi zero, plus you need an sd card and maybe a serial cable, so maybe twenty quid all up?

That is on my D3

One pinhole, but obviously the rest of the pipe is as-new. No chance at all of it turning into a colander the next time you're on the motorway on a rainy night Repairs as above, but only until the replacement pipe arrives, for my money. (says the bloke who is 60k overdue for a cambelt because he can't be bothered!)

If my memory hasn't completely failed... Some V6 were Honda, some were Rover engined (KV6 like Freelander I think). Early 4 pot were Rover, don't know about later ones. I once got asked to help a mate who was replacing a failed V6 in one, and had 'a few issues'. Turned out he was trying to stuff a Rover lump into the hole left by a Honda. Not ashamed to say I ran away without picking up a spanner

Megasquirt has (or did in early versions anyway) reasonable reverse polarity protection. If properly fused and wired, it would (or should anyway) just take out the fuse without further damage. I think the ISO specs covering auto electronics include 60 seconds of reverse polarity without damage as well as brief pulses of much higher voltages, e.g. load dump to -100V caused by removing the power supply to an inductive load, like a motor. Electronics generally has to be designed with 'finger trouble' in mind, because given the chance, most semiconductors will happily sacrifice themselves to protect the fuses