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TSD last won the day on April 2

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About TSD

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  1. I was doing the exact same job on Sunday afternoon I've had some bearing noise for a week or so, but couldn't find any play or excess heat in any wheel. On Sunday morning the light noise became an ominous noise and a lot of heat in the osf wheel. Drove carefully the 50 miles or so home and I reckon I only just made it. There was loads of play and I could feel the wheel move in the corners! The inner bearing cage fell apart when I removed the hub, and the inner race is welded to the stub axle. There was plenty of grease in there and the outer bearing was clean and intact, so there was probably either some contamination got in there or it just died of old age. It's probably 10 years and well over 100k since I last changed the bearings. It was too hot and I had to work outside in the farmyard, so for speed I robbed a stub axle from the 'other' Ibex (in slow build, so it doesn't really need them at the moment!). I'd be a bit wary of bending the brake pipe like that unless I was changing it anyway - too easy to kink or fracture it. Every time I've ever worked in there I've intended to slot the mounting bracket at the same time to save messing about with the swivel pin in the future. Somehow after 15 years I still haven't done it though
  2. Few pics for interest. You can see there is a shock absorber in the outer gear ring...presumably not enough for the application though!
  3. Same thinking, but different case I think. As I see it, it's the initial current and load torque combination. Losses are minimal when the motor is cold and not rotating, so max torque is available. For a starter motor there's no soft energy absorber (mud, drum tension etc.) to take out the shock load. Winch motor almost certainly is current limited by the wiring and the battery internal resistance, at the potentially higher currents drawn. But mostly, the starter motor has a tiny epicyclic with low ratio, where the winch has a huge one with high ratio. In both of my failures the carrier failed. In one, possibly both, the outer casing of the motor burst as the motor tried to force the gears round. I will try to find some pics later on.
  4. It's true. If you give the tdi starter motor all the power it asks for, and then give it a sturdy load to turn (like my 2.8, or probably any tdi still making good compression) then the failure point is the epicyclic reduction gear carrier. (My starter is/was fed from twin parallel Optimas with probably no more than four feet of 25mm2 cable for both positive and ground.) (The Bosch Blue Book specifically mentions the wiring acting as current limit for starter motors.) First time (valeo motor) was driver abuse, winding Ibex + trailer + vehicle on trailer across a main road on the starter when the immobiliser failed (or rather, worked excessively well) Second time (Bosch motor) was out of the blue in a german service station, with no previous warning. Kept the engine running where possible for the next 1000 miles. Massive bonus points to Jansen LR independant in Holland, who sold me a starter motor at 6am on a Monday morning after they (like me) had driven all night from the Abenteur Allrad show in Germany, and then fitted it for me
  5. Coincidentally, I went on the internet and I found this
  6. The UJs on my Gwynn Lewis prop lasted less than a year, before one failed and I changed both. Then again Fridgefreezer had been using the truck for a week, so all bets are off Reb78, did you happen to make a note of the GKN part number supplied?? I suspect UJs are just another demonstration of why OEM is not the same as Gen Parts. Just because it's made by the same manufacturer, doesn't mean it's the same part made to the same spec for the same application. A bit of speculation based on reading an old GKN catalogue.... (GKN_Universal_Joints.pdf) I don't recall if it's the large or small UJ, but for one of them I'm sure I've previously been supplied GKN U110. Check the GKN catalogue and while the dimensions look correct, it isn't the only part which might suit. U117 is list as 'Land Rover special axle' (but has no grease point). U110 is classed as 'Automotive Standard', but U967 has the same listed dimensions but is classed as 'Premium design for high performance / long life'. Of course, not all applications are the same, so the 'long life' part might not be the best choice for a Land Rover, an 'automotive' or even 'agricultural' might be better, either generally, or for a specific vehicle/use. Also, it's very possible the 'Gen Parts' design from GKN is not even from the standard range, but modified from that. There isn't any detail on size/number of rollers, or seal or lubrication details, and even if there was I think it would be hard to guess which would be the best choice without checking all the likely parts, and then trying any that fit.
  7. If you've never had a gearbox oil change done, I'd do that before the additive. My D3 started with the TC shimmy about 40k ago. Gearbox oil change and a tube of Dr T sorted it for 25k or so. Another oil change and another tube, and it hasn't recurred yet. The old oil was black and very thin, both times. Oil change done through the cooler pipework with a garden sprayer bottle - really easy. Genuine gearbox oil is really spendy, but there are cheaper aftermarket versions. edit : Forgot to say, if it's a TC problem, you'll usually see the rev counter fluctuating a few 100 rpm when cruising around 70mph.
  8. I think my exact response was 'You'll have to buy it, so I don't have to... and you'll end up painting it anyway' Me win
  9. OK hands up, 'twas I. And it really isn't all Mikes fault, probably only 75%. The other 75% is fridges fault, and any left over is just down to poor impulse control on my part. Not sure a build thread will be that interesting, I spent the whole day in the workshop, mostly standing looking from various angles and muttering 'WTF have I done?'. First job is to clear enough space in the shed to work on it (Anyone interested in a q plate 88" hybrid rolling chassis before I throw it out into the rain?)
  10. Just in case it's useful... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/images/source/CV_joint_rework.pdf I've got a pair of early Ashcroft HD joints that I keep meaning to rework at some point. They were very tight - difficult to move by hand - but I couldn't spot a problem when they were on the vehicle.
  11. Didn't you ever watch 'Wargames' Dave? The only way to win is not to play!
  12. Firebex is an awesome truck, but if the extra length doesn't do it for you, you could go wider instead... Wallys Ibex camper is another fantastic build. The cab is wider than a standard Ibex (compare the rear of the front wheelarches), then it gets wider again for the loadbay! The rear axle is a Salisbury, with a 'long side' tube fitted on both sides IIRC. Image shamelessly stolen from http://www.ibexcamper.com/
  13. But my go-to guy for painting is quite busy these days and I dont think I could get much done until it was painted. He's probably on a terrorist watch list and not allowed to buy paint anymore either And I'd have to sell a truck to make spannering room. Excuses? I got loads of them, they dont take up much space. (Damn, my 666th post! Could it be an omen?!)
  14. As Fridge pointed out earlier today, due to some recent vehicle movements, I now have a space in my garage exactly the right size