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TSD last won the day on January 6

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    Salisbury, Wiltshire

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  1. You can get the cable trays out of the way with a bit of manipulation and the application of undue force. Disconnect as much of the wiring loom as seems necessary, cut the cable ties and lift the wiring out of the tray as far as you can (the plastic conduit will probably disintegrate, but this makes it easier). The trays are clipped to the pipes below, but they will come out, or at least out of the way. One thing I learned - tie a bit of cotton onto the leakoff pipe clips before you try to refit them. Sometimes they clip straight in, sometimes they ping off across the engine bay never to be seen again. Sods law says if you tie the cotton on, they will fit straight in
  2. ISTR that one former member of this forum found that his house wifi was the source keeping his P38 awake at night, and that the receiver change was the fix. If it's happening at home, flip the big switch on your house long enough to prove if it's something of yours, or your neighbours. If you know it's something of yours you can try invidual circuits, then individual items until you track it down. But the if fix is going to be to change the receiver anyway, you might as well do that first.
  3. You need to describe the problem in a little more detail than "when you got a bump the suspension drops down". Are you going to fix it yourself, or pay someone? Suspension faults are very common on D3/4, most aren't too difficult to fix, but it can end up expensive. If the seller knows it's a sensor, why hasn't it been changed already? Most are cheapish and easy to change. There's no such thing as a cheap D3. Pick a suitably expensive culprit (e.g. Compressor £500), drop your offer by an amount to cover parts and labour, and only then if you're certain there's no other nasties lurking that you don't know about.
  4. That's funny, I thought Humber Pig for some reason.
  5. In my case, £0/hr labour charges and the near zero depreciation went a long way to offset the fuel costs of commuting 750 miles a week, and I got to spend the hours in something I actually like driving. Fifteen years on, I've just looked at ebay and I can't see any 15yo Mondeos I'd swap for my Ibex, so I'm still pretty happy with my choice A mate asked if my (parked up for a couple of years) 200tdi 90 was for sale the other day, and how much I'd want for it. I'm glad I told him to go away and think of an offer, or I might have given it away. Looking at ebay there seem to be many with asking prices higher than I paid for mine 10 years ago!
  6. For most of its life my TGV has had a standard (W x H) shape, but 4 core rad, alongside a standard shape but thicker alisport intercooler. I have seen the temp gauge go above it's normal position only a couple of times, both on exceptionally hot (for the uk) days. Once was towing miketomcat and family in his fully loaded 90, with his fully loaded camp trailer on the back of that. The other was a long motorway drag at 'some pace', fully loaded and pulling 33s and overdrive. I've only hit the limits of a healthy 200tdi cooling system once, blatting up a mountain in Spain at midday in midsummer, with the aircon running at maximum. When the rad failed, I was in a hurry and feeling tight, so fitted a cheap ebay alu rad. It hasn't shown any problems, but I wouldn't try to cross the empty quarter with it either. My take is that the cooling system has a limited range of control, and it's only a proportionally controlled system - the amount the stat is open depends on the temperature. So it does not, and cannot, maintain a constant temperature across a range of conditions. That's why the OEM gauge is sluggish across the middle of its range - so idiots don't freak out every time the needle goes a little bit above or below normal. If the temperature rises a little, and stays there, then it is still within the controlled range and doesn't mean there is a problem as such, just that the system is working harder. Of course, if the temperature continues to rise, then the limits of the cooling system has been reached, and that's obviously an immediate problem. For best cooling, I'd want to avoid a full width intercooler (or aircon rad, oil cooler, ps cooler, big spotlights etc.) in front of the rad. Reducing the airflow, and heating it at the same time seems like it would more than cancel the benefit of a better intercooler, as far as cooling goes. A thicker core (with well chosen core type) will give more margin, but the wrong core might cause more issues than it solves if it reduces the airflow at speed, clogs too easily, or is just too easily damaged. I'd find a 'man in a dirty shed' radiator builder (all too rare in this country now, it seems) and get their ideas on what they could build using an original brass tanked LR rad as a starting point. I've done that for previous vehicles and I would have done it for the TGV if I hadn't been in a hurry to get back on the road.
  7. I'm surprised if you didn't understand my meaning at least, you're clearly an intelligent reader. Just remove the word 'boost' from the problematic phrase, and all should become clear. The ratio of the absolute pressure after compression, to absolute pressure before it. So at 1 bar of boost, the ratio is 2:1. The pressure before compression is nominally 1 bar. The absolute pressure after compression is 2 bar (the turbo adds 1 bar of boost pressure above the nominal 1 bar of atmospheric pressure) It simply suggests that the effect on EGT is (too a simple approximation) is simply the removal of thermal energy, not an effect on the combustion. Don't bother looking for a copy of Ricardo simply to check my quote (though it is an excellent book). The wording (or mis-wording) is mine, drawn from graphical data in the book.
  8. It turns out (unsurprisingly) that google has a better memory for things I've said than I do... (and that should read 50C lower. of course!
  9. Do you have a source for that? ISTR that the plots in the Ricardo book suggested the EGT dropped by the boost ratio (so ~10C), but I'm not sure where I've put the book to check it. That made sense to me, but happy to be wrong if it means lower egt!
  10. When I was writing my last post, I deleted a whole paragraph on 'coulomb counters' as that's a whole new world of pain, even though the idea is attractive. The problem I see is that accumulated errors quickly make a mockery of the measurements, because of the range of measured values. Very back of the envelope guesswork... 10 seconds of cranking at 500A is about 1.4Ah. Over 24 hours, that's about 60mA. So to have a hope of 5% accuracy, even over 1 day of use, needs a measurement accuracy of about +/-3mA, which wouldn't be easy for a sensor that doesn't saturate below 500A. There's loads of 'yes, but...' on both sides of the problem, but it's probably a lot more difficult than it first appears. FridgeFreezer and I have discussed it at length many times, and I don't think we ever came to a scheme that we thought would really work reliably. OTOH It could work reasonably for a scheme like the 'house' battery in Fridges ambulance. The ratio between charge and discharge currents is much lower, and you know you're only trading depth of discharge against long term battery health - it's not super critical, but you know that 75% charge is no problem, but if you discharge below 50% you'll probably have some effect on the long term battery survival. So when your gauge says 60%, you might consider tolerating a slightly warmer G&T for the rest of the evening I did try fitting a commercial (Xantrex) meter that measured charge in/out on some equipment I built years ago, but I don't really know how successful they were, never got any feedback from the end users.
  11. That Optima was measuring something like 16Ah before I even noticed a problem. I think that was what led to me writing that battery testbench code in the first place. Copying some published charging regimes for intelligent battery chargers, the testbench recovered the battery back to something like 35Ah. Still dismal for a 50Ah battery, but twice the initial state. I don't recall what the charging current was. I have seen AGM batteries that struggled to accept any charge - I recall having to put about 30V on one Optima to get it to accept 33A (the current limit of the power supply I was using). That's plainly abusive, but then the battery was obviously in trouble anyway, and I just wanted to start the engine and go home There are some systems which measure the battery impedance (like the internal resistance but more complex ) to gauge battery health, but like you say, batteries are complicated and there probably isn't really one instant measure to be made that would give a definitive yes/no answer. The best information might be to measure long term changes in the battery on the vehicle, and I think your battery gauge prototype could do it, but the software could be quite complex to implement. Terminal voltage, current and temperature should make it possible to track changes in internal resistance, charge acceptance, resting voltage and charged voltage in the long term. Hard to put a usefull pass/fail on any of those, but knowing how much any of those has changed since the battery was first installed could be a good guide. But in the real world, I'm not sure it adds much over a half decent voltmeter directly on the battery terminals. The problem is still 'How much is too much'. If the expensive gauge says the battery resistance has risen 25% since install, but the car still starts, how many people would change the battery, and how many would just 'keep an eye on it'?
  12. So rarely in fact, that you may have forgotten it's been living in my shed for at least a year
  13. I'm not in the slightest worried by the electronics (though I've never looked into what's actually being done presently) - it's mostly the legal, financial and commercial concerns that made me wonder how much monitoring and/or authentication was done, now and in the future. If I owned a carpark full of expensive electric hosepipes, I'd be a little concerned about knowing what they were being plugged into (especially old land rovers held together by gaffer tape and wishful thinking!). If I ran a government, I'd be looking at public chargers as a likely place to recover the lost fuel duty from the infernal combustion engines. While doing that, why not refuse to charge untaxed, uninsured, stolen or scrapped vehicles? Not strictly ralated to charging, but Tesla (and others) talk about removing options that weren't paid for by the current vehicle owner. John Deere wants to prevent owners repairing their own machinery. It seems to me that the whole market is moving toward a rental type model, rather than ownership, and keeping the charging networks close to the manufacturers would be an obvious step on that path. Just because you're paranoid...
  14. I'm curious to know - If I took one or two scrap Nissan Leafs and electrified my Ibex, would Instavolt (or anyone else) allow me to connect to their chargers? Between the complications of smart chargers, competing networks, and the pretty small diy market, it seems a question worth asking. I have no idea of the situation now, or how it will pan out in the future, but while a simple ev conversion Land Rover might be useful, even with lowish maxium speed and low range, it would be drastically much less useful if it could only be charged at home. e.g. drop the internals of a Leaf into my Ibex (which one? ). Very roughly, there's enough power to get Series equivalent performance. There's a load of unnecessary weight, so maybe the range is less than 100 miles. That's still enough to be a useful utility truck, for trips to the dump, parts getter etc. For me at least,that's potentially enough to be a useable greenlaning toy - 100 miles nominal range would get me to the far side of Salisbury Plain with a fair margin, but not if I can't charge up before heading home again.
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