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TSD last won the day on January 6

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About TSD

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    Salisbury, Wiltshire

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  1. ISTR that one former member of this forum found that his house wifi was the source keeping his P38 awake at night, and that the receiver change was the fix. If it's happening at home, flip the big switch on your house long enough to prove if it's something of yours, or your neighbours. If you know it's something of yours you can try invidual circuits, then individual items until you track it down. But the if fix is going to be to change the receiver anyway, you might as well do that first.
  2. You need to describe the problem in a little more detail than "when you got a bump the suspension drops down". Are you going to fix it yourself, or pay someone? Suspension faults are very common on D3/4, most aren't too difficult to fix, but it can end up expensive. If the seller knows it's a sensor, why hasn't it been changed already? Most are cheapish and easy to change. There's no such thing as a cheap D3. Pick a suitably expensive culprit (e.g. Compressor £500), drop your offer by an amount to cover parts and labour, and only then if you're certain there's no other nasties l
  3. That's funny, I thought Humber Pig for some reason.
  4. In my case, £0/hr labour charges and the near zero depreciation went a long way to offset the fuel costs of commuting 750 miles a week, and I got to spend the hours in something I actually like driving. Fifteen years on, I've just looked at ebay and I can't see any 15yo Mondeos I'd swap for my Ibex, so I'm still pretty happy with my choice A mate asked if my (parked up for a couple of years) 200tdi 90 was for sale the other day, and how much I'd want for it. I'm glad I told him to go away and think of an offer, or I might have given it away. Looking at ebay there seem to be ma
  5. For most of its life my TGV has had a standard (W x H) shape, but 4 core rad, alongside a standard shape but thicker alisport intercooler. I have seen the temp gauge go above it's normal position only a couple of times, both on exceptionally hot (for the uk) days. Once was towing miketomcat and family in his fully loaded 90, with his fully loaded camp trailer on the back of that. The other was a long motorway drag at 'some pace', fully loaded and pulling 33s and overdrive. I've only hit the limits of a healthy 200tdi cooling system once, blatting up a mountain in Spain at midday in midsummer,
  6. I'm surprised if you didn't understand my meaning at least, you're clearly an intelligent reader. Just remove the word 'boost' from the problematic phrase, and all should become clear. The ratio of the absolute pressure after compression, to absolute pressure before it. So at 1 bar of boost, the ratio is 2:1. The pressure before compression is nominally 1 bar. The absolute pressure after compression is 2 bar (the turbo adds 1 bar of boost pressure above the nominal 1 bar of atmospheric pressure) It simply suggests that the effect on EGT is (too a simple approximation) is simply
  7. It turns out (unsurprisingly) that google has a better memory for things I've said than I do... (and that should read 50C lower. of course!
  8. Do you have a source for that? ISTR that the plots in the Ricardo book suggested the EGT dropped by the boost ratio (so ~10C), but I'm not sure where I've put the book to check it. That made sense to me, but happy to be wrong if it means lower egt!
  9. When I was writing my last post, I deleted a whole paragraph on 'coulomb counters' as that's a whole new world of pain, even though the idea is attractive. The problem I see is that accumulated errors quickly make a mockery of the measurements, because of the range of measured values. Very back of the envelope guesswork... 10 seconds of cranking at 500A is about 1.4Ah. Over 24 hours, that's about 60mA. So to have a hope of 5% accuracy, even over 1 day of use, needs a measurement accuracy of about +/-3mA, which wouldn't be easy for a sensor that doesn't saturate below 500A. There's l
  10. That Optima was measuring something like 16Ah before I even noticed a problem. I think that was what led to me writing that battery testbench code in the first place. Copying some published charging regimes for intelligent battery chargers, the testbench recovered the battery back to something like 35Ah. Still dismal for a 50Ah battery, but twice the initial state. I don't recall what the charging current was. I have seen AGM batteries that struggled to accept any charge - I recall having to put about 30V on one Optima to get it to accept 33A (the current limit of the power supply I was u
  11. So rarely in fact, that you may have forgotten it's been living in my shed for at least a year
  12. I'm not in the slightest worried by the electronics (though I've never looked into what's actually being done presently) - it's mostly the legal, financial and commercial concerns that made me wonder how much monitoring and/or authentication was done, now and in the future. If I owned a carpark full of expensive electric hosepipes, I'd be a little concerned about knowing what they were being plugged into (especially old land rovers held together by gaffer tape and wishful thinking!). If I ran a government, I'd be looking at public chargers as a likely place to recover the lost fuel d
  13. I'm curious to know - If I took one or two scrap Nissan Leafs and electrified my Ibex, would Instavolt (or anyone else) allow me to connect to their chargers? Between the complications of smart chargers, competing networks, and the pretty small diy market, it seems a question worth asking. I have no idea of the situation now, or how it will pan out in the future, but while a simple ev conversion Land Rover might be useful, even with lowish maxium speed and low range, it would be drastically much less useful if it could only be charged at home. e.g. drop the internals of a Leaf into m
  14. A little more thought would lead to the conclusion it should be fused at both ends?
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