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TSD

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TSD last won the day on February 16 2019

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About TSD

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    Salisbury, Wiltshire

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  1. I just noticed you have the usual NAS lights in the front bumper. Recurring problem with mine on 33" was that if you get crossed up off-road with a lot of steering angle, the tyre can rip apart the back of the old style incandescent bulb lights. On 33" it depended on the wheel offset, but on 35" it would be a constant problem, at least on my vehicle. The easy fix was to swap to LED lights - there's plenty to choose from, most of them truly ghastly in my opinion The flat faced ones that Miketomcat used are nice, I used the L E Perei ones which look close to standard until switched on. LE
  2. Hi Mike. Nice to see another Ibex round here in the correct colour scheme I suspect FridgeFreezer was peering over at me when he made that comment. I have a very low mileage Cosworth V6 BOA in the back of the shed that was going into my 88" Hybrid many (many many) moons ago. I even have an adapter plate to an LT77 gearbox, flywheel and clutch to suit. It's not entirely a straightforward swap, but it's certainly do-able. I think your car originally had a Ford Explorer auto box behind the Cossie lump? I remember Roy (?) telling a story about losing drive having driven halfway up a ski slope
  3. I haven't looked at your spreadsheet, but I agree that 0xEF looks to be the right checksum value, it's what I get returned from my original code.
  4. CCA is a usefull way to compare batteries, but doesn't have much meaning in terms of 'real' amps unless your engine takes exactly 30 seconds to start. Can't put my hand on the 'on engine' measurements I have right now, is this 'non-rolling road' curve of any interest ? This is a typical 2.2kW tdi starter motor - data supplied by the motor rewinder. Maximum stalled current was 730A (but the wiring and battery should be sized to limit the current below this).
  5. Absolutely not what you need, but if you want a really high quality, seriously beefy battery, then look at the Hawker Armasafe? Should satisfy the urge for the next ultimate upgrade...
  6. There is an official installation manual with cad drawings of flywheel housing etc., so you can work out your own adapters. It looked to me like the turbo position might be a PITA for a RHD land rover but I never got further than a coffee time project. ISTR it was developed by Cummins for a Nissan research project for a small diesel for US market pick up trucks. I only found it in one production vehicle, a chinese pickup that was available in Australia. At one time the engines were listed on Alibaba, even before Cummins released the Re-Power kits.
  7. When production of the 300tdi engine stopped here, the design was sold or licenced to International / MWM, who continued production in (I think) Brazil, then later in Argentina. They were available in several versions, 2.8 and 2.5, with conventional or variable nozzle turbo. In that market, they were used in Ford Rangers and Merc Sprinters, and there were generator set and marinised versions as well. I think engines were supplied back either to LR or MOD as service units, as well as to LR for RoW vehicles. The last rework programme of the Wolf 110s fitted 2.8 engines. I think those had wa
  8. Following Escapes suggestion, likely sticking brushes, especially if the car has been offroad/wading in the past. I don't know the td5 at all (or what style alternator is fitted to it), but often the brush pack can be removed as an assembly without even taking the alternator out. Clean it up and make sure the brushes move freely - or just change it while you're in there.
  9. With Webers, you'll probably find better info if you look for the four letter model code for the carb, rather than the throttle size. Probably the best book on Weber carbs is John Passini - Weber Carburettors, Theory Tuning & Maintenance. Not easy or cheap to obtain though unless you're very lucky. (I was, about 20 years back) There is a Haynes manual solely on Webers, which is probably quite useful - I only have a PDF of the section on DGAS carbs, but that part is pretty good. EDIT: Looking around for a PDF of Passini, found this instead which might be useful.
  10. If you really need to join it in the middle, there's no major problem, but cutting the connection at one end or the other and feeding the cable through is always better. Most cb antenna bases will allow you to remove the coax, or accept the same PL259 plug as the radio, which is cheap and easy to fit. F connector is a poor choice for lots of reasons. It's the wrong impedance and it's designed for solid conductor coax.
  11. I have a couple of the aftermarket VDO 6k units, works just fine on a 300tdi. I needed to do some adjustment with the TGV engine because the alternator has an unusual number of poles, but with standard tdi alternator it was nearly spot on straight out of the box. (Second unit was already fitted on the 200tdi when I got it).
  12. This is called a 'gumption trap'... ... named by the author in "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"
  13. I don't have much/any more info than you, I simply had already read the doc I linked as part of the canbus reverse engineering that I was doing. The doc I linked before says 'The control module will exit stand-by mode if there is any LIN bus activity. When the control module exits stand-by mode it must verify the 'System Enable Status' in order to recognise when it should respond to a switch request.' So a normal LIN wakeup should bring the seat out of standby, but then it probably still won't respond until it's been told to. It's not clear to me if the LIN bus master is the seat mem
  14. You don't have to tighten down the spring compressors, just snug them up on the spring before you jack the car up. That way the spring can't extend when unloaded, and you know exactly the maximum force applied to the compressors - the corner weight of the vehicle. And you know before you start that you'll get the spring out easily without jumping on the hub, letting the brake line go etc..
  15. Not sure why you think I'd could help, have you seen what happens when I mess with vehicle electrics??? D3dashboard.mp4
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