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TSD

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TSD last won the day on February 16

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  1. If you're going for loads of Ah, then keep all the paralleled batteries on the leisure side the same if you can (so they can share the load as equally as possible), but less important that the starter battery is the same, because the capacity on each side is different. Most often people are only adding a single second battery of 100Ah or so, and then it's easy to keep the starter and leisure sides exactly the same. In truth, you may be over thinking it. None of this is "this works, this doesn't", it's more about getting the best performance in the space and the budget, and how long it all lasts - or rather how fast it degrades. The hurdle for deciding it's time to replace a battery is very variable. Years ago, when I was young and skint, I'd replace the battery when the car wouldn't start on a cold morning (and usually only after a fortnight of dragging it indoors every night to charge it!). These days I'm old and skint, but I'll replace a battery long before it's needed when I know it's starting to degrade, because I feel a battery is cheaper than a morning off work, and I get to choose what to spend, and change it in the dry weather. When I used to go to all the LR shows and the like, and ran a hungry coolbox to keep the beer cold, I used to buy a big cheap battery from the local trade place, knowing I could cane it completely flat on a sunny weekend without worrying, and it could spend the whole week on a float charge in the shed. Even with nothing but abuse, it would probably last a couple of years, and the most it would cost me was one cheap battery (and a weekend of drinking warm beer).
  2. Ian, your question is not so much 'how long is a piece of string?', but 'how long is that frayed and knotted ball of string?' Everything is a compromise, and every use case is different. The spec numbers don't tell the whole story. The CCA measure doesn't directly mean more cranking amps in real life. The current delivered is limited by the overall resistance (intentionally) of the battery, motor and wiring. If you give a Tdi starter motor unlimited current, it's perfectly capable of doing itself an injury trying to spin up the engine. (I had two motors burst their reduction gears trying to spin over my 2.8 before I twigged what was happening) For the auxiliary battery, you can work out what your typical total load is likely to be between charges. e.g. fridge draws 4A for 12h, but only 'runs' 50% of the time, so 4 * 12 * (50/100) = 24Ah etc. Add up those loads, and try to have aux battery capacity at least twice that value, and preferably more. Deep discharges shorten battery life dramatically. Rule of thumb is to try not to discharge more than ~25% for best value (most Ah life per £), but that's rarely doable, so aim for the best you can. In other words, as everyone has said, just fit the biggest battery you can! If you don't have a properly smart (and expensive) split charger, then I'd keep the start and aux batteries to be the same type, same size and same age. Relay type split chargers always mean joining two batteries with unequal state-of-charge, so one or other (probably both) won't be charged as it would if on it's own. Not a major issue, but it's likely to have some noticeable effect over time. Simple diode splitters don't join the batteries directly, but much the same problem exists - the charging voltage can only be 'perfect' for one battery at most. Having identical batteries in similar condition doesn't solve this, it just tries to keep the difference to a minimum.
  3. Yep, I remember. I think Fridgefreezer is in on the game as well now. Just didn't want to encourage someone I don't know to spend a pile on potentially unsuitable batteries. At least if your's suddenly die, I get to steal them and learn something Best battery I've ever tested was the factory fit part in the D3. When I bought the car it was 8(?) years old and the battery was original, confirmed by date code stamp. So I replaced is as part of the 'new truck' prep, and stuck the old one on the test rig. Amazingly it still exceeded the label spec on Ah capacity! I don't measure cranking amps because it's a pita, but Ah capacity is easy on the bench, especially if you already consider the battery to be scrap and aren't worried about protecting it from deep discharge
  4. About 10 or so years back, we used a lot of Optimas in some mobile equipment, mostly yellow tops. They were used and abused to destruction - rapid charged and then run usually until absolutely flat, on a daily basis. Failures were expected, and when the run time dropped too low, we just swapped them out. Over a few years, the rate of failures definitely increased noticeably, but I don't have access to the data any more. I have measured the Ah capacity of one brand new Optima (yellow top) and found it well below spec. No way to know if that's typical or not. One interesting thing I found is that while you can usually spot a failing battery because of slow cranking when cold, that didn't seem to be the case with red tops - in the Ibex the 2.8 would crank perfectly normally, but if then engine didn't fire straight away, the battery couldn't manage a second attempt. When I measured the 50Ah battery, it was well below 20Ah, but until I needed that second cranking cycle, I had no idea there was an issue. Maybe thats just because the CCA is so high to start with, maybe not. My current fave is the Varta Stop-Start Plus batteries. Ibex has two fitted, and 2Bex is slated to get the same when built. This is just an experiment on my part - Varta suggest they shouldn't be fitted to non stop-start vehicles (presumably they benefit from the smart charging schemes in modern cars), but I've found no downsides so far. (I have one in the D3 as well, but that does have the smart alternator control, even though not stop-start).
  5. The last set I bought were EAC pistons which can be bought here
  6. Measured a new Bearmach AMR1425 sensors today. Also did AMR3321 and ERR2081 since they were handy. Posted here so they don't get lost again. (First column is Temp in C, Second is Resistance in Ohms. Open in a text editor if you don't do spreadsheets.) AMR1425.csv AMR3321.csv ERR2081.csv
  7. Hmm, I cut and pasted the above from my notes files, I should have read it first - I have a second file in my archive with numbers that much more closely match the aulro link that Blanco posted. As a penance, tomorrow I will put the kettle on and measure one....again, and this time I'll try not to lose the test data
  8. Just for completeness, Yuasa has a decent guide on the meaning of the various battery specs and how they compare here. For CCA, that's as much detail as I've seen on the measurement procedure without paying the ransom required to obtain copies of the standards.
  9. The two CCA figures refer to the Cold Cranking Amps figure measured following different standards - SAE being the American standard, and EN the European one. Which one you choose to pay attention to doesn't really matter, as long as you use the same one for each battery you compare. Likewise the Ah figures can be measured at the 20h rate or 100h rate - that is, draw 1/20th of the Ah capacity for 20h, or 1/100th of the capacity for 100h. Because batteries aren't 100% efficient, and get worse at higher currents, the capacity looks a little better measured at 100h rate. You might infer something about the quality of the battery from how close the two number are if you have them both for the same battery, but its never just that simple. For typical lead-acid starter batteries, once you've met the CCA and Ah specs you've chosen, I'd choose the heaviest one in my price range. Lead is expensive, and heavy, and more of it tends to make a better battery. Again, nothing is ever really that simple, but it's a good guide.
  10. AMR1425 Coolant - Disco/RRC/Def 3.9 4.0 4.6 around 96-99 Also 300tdi 'GREEN' sensor Also Td5 RoW Spec 136ohms 'cold' 17 ohms 'hot' CI XTT109 Green 1/8x27NPTF
  11. It sounds like your nanocom reads absolute pressure (so 1bar, 100kPa with no boost or engine not running), where most diesel boost gauges read pressure over ambient, so will read 0 with no boost. Boost gauges for petrol engines read manifold vacuum as well, which is useless on a diesel. I used one though, because even VDO ones were much cheaper than the diesel scaled ones. Mine reads 25psi at the top of the scale, and the TGV has smacked the end stop on overboost so many times that the needle now reads a few psi of vacuum permanently when the engine is off! It doesn't matter of course, I'm not looking for an exact reading, just a useful way to spot problems or a change in behaviour. Like Tanuki, I had a 'stuck mechanism' issue, but mine was stuck at max boost for a couple of miles, until it warmed up and I jumped on and off the throttle a few times. I'm no expert on td5, but I thought the boost level was ecu controlled, so the power can be cut without dropping fuelling?
  12. Sent more info by PM, but an additional timing pin hole was drilled in the flywheel housing for early M&D installations, at least on manual gearbox versions. I presume because the dowel position in the crank is different on the Ford spec engines. (Just below crank centreline, on the opposite side to the starter motor)
  13. Usually, with a D3, even if the fault is a flat tyre, someone will tell you the brake pedal switch is the cause of the problem. But in this case it might actually be true... the engine management may not allow enough diesel to generate much more than tickover power if it thinks you might be braking. Also be aware if you've had the sunroof drains breaking due to rot, rather than just being blocked, on the passenger side the tube often breaks in just the right place to empty the rainwater into the central junction box, where a world of pain awaits if you don't spot it in time.
  14. TSD

    Throttle bodies

    Out of curiosity, injectors upstream or downstream of the throttle plate? I presume upstream but I can't tell from a brief look at the website. I did TPI on a 3.1L Essex a *very* long time ago. It works well, the engine made probably a little more power, but the driveability was transformed compared to running on carbs. With EDIS6 it was even better again. I used the Chevy TBI as at the time it was the only way to find parts large enough to feed a hungry V6 from only 2 injectors. (Running on carbs it was basically undriveable off-road, as some members of this forum will remember!) PSA used the Bosch TBI on midrange 1.4 and 1.6 engines for a few years. These would have been engines making making a little less than 100hp, and with smaller capacity but higher revs than a typical series, I always thought that could be a very simple setup. Possibly only need mods to the intake manifold to mount the TBI where the carb was. They are also wide and squat, designed to be used downdraught. The injectors were an oddity though in the ones I've seen, much more like the chevy shape and style (possibly even the same), rather than the typical mpi injector most people are used to.
  15. TSD

    Throttle bodies

    Individual injection throttle bodies seems like would make it drive like a PoS due to loss of fine control at tip-in (where the throttle is just opening). Would be a shame to destroy the engines best characteristic for no reason. There was a guy in N. Hampshire (*) who made injector mount 'spacers' to fit between the standard manifold and head on his 2.25. Seemed to work pretty well, and it meant that playing with injector-valve positioning was easy, just machine new mounts and swap them in. Could even use the standard carb as a throttle body to get things going. I always liked the Bosch dual-plate throttle that VW used around the era of 16V GTIs. Like a staged carb, but one very small plate opening first and a second, larger than usual plate for wide throttle openings. Better control at tip-in, and less restriction at WOT than was sensibly possible with carbs. (*) - this was more than 10 years ago, before I went to the dark and oily side and stopped messing with efi.
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