Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us

TSD

Settled In
  • Content count

    686
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

TSD last won the day on April 2

TSD had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

About TSD

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location
    planet earth

Recent Profile Visitors

541 profile views
  1. Design Oversight

    Thread necromancy I know, but this thread popped up in my search, and I didn't find the info elsewhere, so might be useful for someone in the future... On my steering column (Defender, believed late 300tdi), the lower bearing was 22.5mm id, 35.7mm od, 9.5mm wide, and marked INA F-49273.2 (Mine was ok, didn't need replacing) Upper bearing was 15/16" id, 1-3/16" od, 1/2" wide (Mine was very rough, and I knackered it getting it out. I used B158 from SimplyBearings). I had some difficulty refitting the rubber upper bearing carrier, until I used the 3d printer to make a funnel tool, sort of like the press for putting corks into bottles (never needed one of those myself )
  2. Some bigger boys looked into it, albeit wrt petrol engines, about forty years ago.... NASA TN D-8487 "Emissions and Total Energy Consumption of a Multicylinder Piston Engine running on Gasoline and a Hydrogen-Gasoline Mixture"
  3. It should be possible to use any hs2.8 flywheel housing with a 300tdi, the differences are small. I don't know what options that brings to the table. HS2.8 was used in South American Ford Ranger, and I think the HS2.5 was in the Merc Sprinter in the same market. No idea what transmissions were used with them.
  4. ibex 300 build

    From memory the door latches are West Alloy 4700 or similar. As Mike said, there are a lot of variants. They also make the matching exterior handle.
  5. Not on ebay, and maybe not even bucket-worthy, but I'll just leave this here. Spotted on the loose in Hampshire yesterday... guessing that's an RX8 body on a Rangie chassis, but who knows?
  6. superwinch ep9i

    Have you tried running the motor without the solenoid pack? Welded / Shorted solenoid at the F1, F2 contact could leave the field out of circuit and put all the power into the armature?
  7. Wiring help please ..

    Put the relay coil in parallel with the pump, instead of in series with it. So connect 85 to ground, and 86 to the pump and the momentary switch. As it is now, the relay coil resistance is preventing the pump from running, but the pump resistance is low enough to still allow the relay to operate.
  8. In the nick of time.....

    I was doing the exact same job on Sunday afternoon I've had some bearing noise for a week or so, but couldn't find any play or excess heat in any wheel. On Sunday morning the light noise became an ominous noise and a lot of heat in the osf wheel. Drove carefully the 50 miles or so home and I reckon I only just made it. There was loads of play and I could feel the wheel move in the corners! The inner bearing cage fell apart when I removed the hub, and the inner race is welded to the stub axle. There was plenty of grease in there and the outer bearing was clean and intact, so there was probably either some contamination got in there or it just died of old age. It's probably 10 years and well over 100k since I last changed the bearings. It was too hot and I had to work outside in the farmyard, so for speed I robbed a stub axle from the 'other' Ibex (in slow build, so it doesn't really need them at the moment!). I'd be a bit wary of bending the brake pipe like that unless I was changing it anyway - too easy to kink or fracture it. Every time I've ever worked in there I've intended to slot the mounting bracket at the same time to save messing about with the swivel pin in the future. Somehow after 15 years I still haven't done it though
  9. Battery terminals

    Few pics for interest. You can see there is a shock absorber in the outer gear ring...presumably not enough for the application though!
  10. Battery terminals

    Same thinking, but different case I think. As I see it, it's the initial current and load torque combination. Losses are minimal when the motor is cold and not rotating, so max torque is available. For a starter motor there's no soft energy absorber (mud, drum tension etc.) to take out the shock load. Winch motor almost certainly is current limited by the wiring and the battery internal resistance, at the potentially higher currents drawn. But mostly, the starter motor has a tiny epicyclic with low ratio, where the winch has a huge one with high ratio. In both of my failures the carrier failed. In one, possibly both, the outer casing of the motor burst as the motor tried to force the gears round. I will try to find some pics later on.
  11. Battery terminals

    It's true. If you give the tdi starter motor all the power it asks for, and then give it a sturdy load to turn (like my 2.8, or probably any tdi still making good compression) then the failure point is the epicyclic reduction gear carrier. (My starter is/was fed from twin parallel Optimas with probably no more than four feet of 25mm2 cable for both positive and ground.) (The Bosch Blue Book specifically mentions the wiring acting as current limit for starter motors.) First time (valeo motor) was driver abuse, winding Ibex + trailer + vehicle on trailer across a main road on the starter when the immobiliser failed (or rather, worked excessively well) Second time (Bosch motor) was out of the blue in a german service station, with no previous warning. Kept the engine running where possible for the next 1000 miles. Massive bonus points to Jansen LR independant in Holland, who sold me a starter motor at 6am on a Monday morning after they (like me) had driven all night from the Abenteur Allrad show in Germany, and then fitted it for me
  12. UJ Quality

    Coincidentally, I went on the internet and I found this
  13. UJ Quality

    The UJs on my Gwynn Lewis prop lasted less than a year, before one failed and I changed both. Then again Fridgefreezer had been using the truck for a week, so all bets are off Reb78, did you happen to make a note of the GKN part number supplied?? I suspect UJs are just another demonstration of why OEM is not the same as Gen Parts. Just because it's made by the same manufacturer, doesn't mean it's the same part made to the same spec for the same application. A bit of speculation based on reading an old GKN catalogue.... (GKN_Universal_Joints.pdf) I don't recall if it's the large or small UJ, but for one of them I'm sure I've previously been supplied GKN U110. Check the GKN catalogue and while the dimensions look correct, it isn't the only part which might suit. U117 is list as 'Land Rover special axle' (but has no grease point). U110 is classed as 'Automotive Standard', but U967 has the same listed dimensions but is classed as 'Premium design for high performance / long life'. Of course, not all applications are the same, so the 'long life' part might not be the best choice for a Land Rover, an 'automotive' or even 'agricultural' might be better, either generally, or for a specific vehicle/use. Also, it's very possible the 'Gen Parts' design from GKN is not even from the standard range, but modified from that. There isn't any detail on size/number of rollers, or seal or lubrication details, and even if there was I think it would be hard to guess which would be the best choice without checking all the likely parts, and then trying any that fit.
  14. Disco 3 rattling from rear

    If you've never had a gearbox oil change done, I'd do that before the additive. My D3 started with the TC shimmy about 40k ago. Gearbox oil change and a tube of Dr T sorted it for 25k or so. Another oil change and another tube, and it hasn't recurred yet. The old oil was black and very thin, both times. Oil change done through the cooler pipework with a garden sprayer bottle - really easy. Genuine gearbox oil is really spendy, but there are cheaper aftermarket versions. edit : Forgot to say, if it's a TC problem, you'll usually see the rev counter fluctuating a few 100 rpm when cruising around 70mph.
×