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TSD

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TSD last won the day on February 16

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About TSD

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    Salisbury, Wiltshire

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  1. TSD

    Best engine

    This one's been sitting in my files forever. Dyno plot of a 2.25 petrol in a series. Looking at the numbers I assume this is uncorrected figures at the wheels. I recall the guy who took the pull saying it was the lowest power figure he'd ever seen on the dyno, but not the lowest torque
  2. TSD

    Best engine

    300Tdi (=HS 2.5), plus the 2.8 Powerstroke derivative in Wastegate and VNT versions, just to add to Fridges list...
  3. TSD

    Hot fuse

    Vaseline flows away from the points of contact, and fills the interstices in the metal surface. It forms an airtight, watertight seal around the point of connection, preventing or greatly inhibiting corrosion. It's fine or your battery connections in the same way unless you get carried away and put pints of the stuff on. Once you have calculate the current as you explained, you should then consider the initial switch on current draw versus time, the fuse manufacturers specifications for I2t, and in this case the manufacturers recommendation that for an ATO fuse, at 25degC, fuses should be operated at no more than 75% of rated current for continuous operation. The second link is quite useful if you really want to understand. ATO Fuse datasheet Littelfuse Application Guide
  4. TSD

    Hot fuse

    You can generally tell if the fuses are decent quality, just by the look and feel. If they look like they came out of a christmas cracker, they probably did. There will be others, but a couple of options easily found :- Multicomp are decent quality, and they have a built in LED to light up when blown. https://uk.farnell.com/c/circuit-protection/fuses-fuse-accessories?ost=fuse+ato&searchref=searchlookahead&product-range=ato-series Littelfuse probably as good as it gets. https://www.mouser.co.uk/Littelfuse/Automotive-Fuses/ATO-Series/_/N-1z0zlhtZba8b5Z1yzxjo9 As always, a smear of vaseline on the fuse legs will work wonders to keep moisture out of the contact area for years.
  5. TSD

    Hot fuse

    That's pretty normal behaviour for a fuse which is too low rated, not too high. When I measured a standard Defender fan motor in the snail housing it was running around 13A at full chat. That's more than enough to make a 15A fuse run hot. I don't know if thats a typical current or not, but if it is, the fuse should be at least 20A rated. Baseline recommendation from the manufacturer is to run fuses at no more than 70% of rated current for continuous operation at 25C. The fuses also dissipate heat into the holder and wiring, so even if the contacts are good, cheap fuseholders and small wiring often cause fuses to run hotter than necessary.
  6. It will be just fine. Mine has lived behind a 2.8 Powerstroke for many years and miles without any signs of strain. More than can be said for anything else in the drivetrain
  7. TSD

    Testing 12V batteries

    As Escape says, it's not an unusual failure, but I think it's seen more often now that AGM batteries are more common (as your UPS batteries will be). I think it's not that the AGM batteries are less reliable, but rather they work so well that the gradual degradation isn't noticed until the battery completely fails to deliver on it's job. A while back the Ibex failed to start on first crank one evening. Cranked as normal, but didn't catch on the first few compressions as it usually does. On the second turn of the key it failed to turn over at all. After a bit of investigation I built a proper automated battery test rig, and was surprised to find the Optima battery could only deliver 14Ah, against the spec of 55Ah. Not surprising, it was a few years old, but I had no idea the battery was degraded at all - in normal use the tdi cranked over perfectly well and started in all weathers right up to the day it couldn't. Being an AGM battery with very low internal resistance, it could still easily deliver the required cranking power for a short burst, it just couldn't sustain the effort. My impression is that wet plate batteries often failed with rising internal resistance as one of the symptoms, so slow cranking and marginal starting were more obvious symptoms as the battery aged. I tried a few of the recovery regimes that are out there, desulphation etc. as a lot of smart chargers implement. Over the course of a few weeks, I got the battery back to about 34Ah, then I threw it away. A new replacement Optima was close, but didn't quite meet it's advertised spec. Interestingly the 7 year old orignal battery in my D3 when I bought it was still delivering well over 90% of it's advertised capacity. My UPS runs a load test cycle regularly, and flags up if the batteries are failing to deliver a useable runtime. It also seems to flag the batteries as failed automatically after a couple of years, regardless of condition. I change them when their time is up and I reckon the failure rate in batteries I've taken out is around 50%, though I only remember once having to change them because the UPS failed the load test run.
  8. TSD

    Leaking Fluids Mystery

    I missed the video too. At least when it's leaking at that rate, if it's important it'll become obvious what it is pretty soon!
  9. TSD

    Leaking Fluids Mystery

    Put down a bowl and collect a clean sample of whatever it is? It'll make it a lot easier to identify if you can't tell where it's falling out of.
  10. TSD

    Tax exemption

    Used to be quite common for ex-military stuff. AFAIR it just meant the original build date hadn't been established, and the new owner just wanted to put it on the road with least hassle.
  11. TSD

    Armchair diagnosis: snapcrankeritis

    In a previous discussion on here it was said that probably all 300tdi cranks are forged. I don't know if thats true, but it's perfectly possible of course. One day I'll get bored enough to open my spares engine and have a look.
  12. TSD

    Armchair diagnosis: snapcrankeritis

    300Tdi isn't exactly known for snapping cranks though, so to have similar failures on two engines in rapid succession would be exceptionally bad luck... I'm with Ed, I'd be looking (or at least checking) for some common cause. What (if any) ancillary parts did you carry over from the old engine when you replaced it? Crank nose pulley? Injection pump? Injectors? Flywheel? They would be my first suspects. What was the gearbox input shaft like? Is it possible it's bent, or has a failed bearing? With the engine out, does the rest of the drivetrain turn smoothly? None of this is likely, but neither is snapping two cranks in 1500 miles!
  13. An aftermarket Webasto coolant heater has a pump to circulate coolant and a trigger output to run the heater fan to warm the interior. The factory fit versions are much the same device, but some don't have the coolant pump, as they are intended to run with the engine on. I wouldn't say it gets oodles of hot air into the cabin, but it's enough to defrost the windows and take the edge off the inside on my Ibex. Also full engine heat comes on stream as soon as you start driving. It won't get you any warmer than the standard setup, but it'll get you there much quicker.
  14. TSD

    speedo drive gears

    Long thread here on reprogramming, but in short you need td5 speedo and sender unit, connectors for each, and cabling. Connect it all up and get it working as-is. Note how far out it is on the road. If you want to do it yourself, you can reprogram the speedo using a raspberry pi computer. You need to open the speedo and attach a few wires, but that's as difficult as it gets. If you're not up for that, I'm sure someone here will help out.
  15. TSD

    speedo drive gears

    Puma has the Blue 20T gear as well, though as it has an electronic speedo, the only reason it's the same is because there's no reason to change it. There are (I think) 5 gears available, but 20T is the limit. 11% fast sounds about normal to me. Remember they all read fast as it's illegal for it to under-read, and there is some variation from unit to unit. Easiest (but not cheap) option is to change to a Td5 speedo and reprogram it to read closer to the correct value.
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