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TSD last won the day on February 16 2019

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About TSD

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    Salisbury, Wiltshire

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  1. This is called a 'gumption trap'... ... named by the author in "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance"
  2. I don't have much/any more info than you, I simply had already read the doc I linked as part of the canbus reverse engineering that I was doing. The doc I linked before says 'The control module will exit stand-by mode if there is any LIN bus activity. When the control module exits stand-by mode it must verify the 'System Enable Status' in order to recognise when it should respond to a switch request.' So a normal LIN wakeup should bring the seat out of standby, but then it probably still won't respond until it's been told to. It's not clear to me if the LIN bus master is the seat memory module or the CJB. If it's the CJB then it's probably not too hard to spoof the required message, once it's been sniffed from a working vehicle. I have almost no experience of LIN bus, but it looks fairly slow and simple to work with. Somewhere round here I have a usb to k-line converter I built about 5 years back that might be useable, but I haven't really thought about it. I was/am considering putting a D3 instrument pack into the 300tdi Ibex I'm building, which is the only reason I'd looked into the various D3 busses at all.
  3. You don't have to tighten down the spring compressors, just snug them up on the spring before you jack the car up. That way the spring can't extend when unloaded, and you know exactly the maximum force applied to the compressors - the corner weight of the vehicle. And you know before you start that you'll get the spring out easily without jumping on the hub, letting the brake line go etc..
  4. Not sure why you think I'd could help, have you seen what happens when I mess with vehicle electrics??? D3dashboard.mp4
  5. Or just use the same micro to provide the AUTH message that the seat needs to see from the LIN bus before it will operate normally?
  6. Your seat controller is in a fault/shutdown condition called 'inch mode' because it hasn't got any communication with the rest of the RRS via the local interface bus. "The seat will be operational in 'inch mode' only if there is a LIN bus failure."
  7. Sadly his soldering is still better than my mig welding
  8. ... clearly has is different meaning to you. It is not 'loading the line down', but in fact 'not pulling it up'. If you removed the bulb entirely, would it then be loading it down to the greatest possible extent?
  9. It's an issue for Puma seats, where the middle seatbelt is part of the seat. The IVA manual has some guidance on what to think about in terms of mounting and bracing - could be worth a read even though you aren't heading for an IVA test. In reality, you can probably put the seats in with not much more than superglue and gaffer tape and still pass an MoT, and no-one will ask any questions until those kitten transporting nuns crash into you. Doesn't make it sensible, or legal.
  10. Other way around, the warning light is not supplying enough current to get the alternator up and running. If the light goes out when you come above idle, then stays out, then it's all fine. As cackshifter said though, below about 3000rpm (alternator rpm not engine) you won't acheive 45Amp out. Expect half that or less at idle speeds. If your typical load at idle rpm is below 20A, there's probably no great benefit to an upgrade.
  11. Far Corners list second row seat extensions on their website, at a price that could most charitably be described as 'reassuringly expensive'.
  12. Saw a leaf motor on ebay a while back and couldn't help thinking that for a quick and dirty project, it could probably fit in place of an LT230 driving front and rear props from the Leaf diff, and leaving loads of battery space in the engine bay. I think overall gearing would be roughly halfway between normal high and low range, so not good for everyday use, but for a greenlaner or playday truck, not so much of a problem... And if it doesn't work out, stick it in an argocat instead Luckily, I have enough projects to keep me busy already, so it remains just a coffee-time idea.
  13. I will be mostly making incredibly slow progress at not getting the Ibex built...
  14. I reckon a good chassis earth at both ends will be fine for most people, most of the time. It might (probably will) have a slightly lower stall load and run a bit slower under high load, drawing a bit more power, and run a bit hotter. The separate cable isn't really separate of course, it's in parallel with the chassis connection in most cases (and if it isn't, why not?) but the quality of the connections may have a bigger influence than the chassis/wire size in a lot of cases. I measured the losses of a few winch isolator switches last year, but the results were so depressing I wanted to recheck them before I published them anywhere, and never go around to it. There's a surprising number of connections in a typical winch circuit (~12) so making each of them as well as possible quite important.
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