steve_a
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Posts posted by steve_a
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I was looking at buying a v8 RR or disco for commuting (after LPG), however when I started to think about it a disco TDi started to make more sense since I could make my own fuel. It would get a bit more milage and costs could be controlled, the has been a lot of yak about increasing duty on LPG, however most chippies are supposed to be happy to give away the old oil (although again maybe this will change)
For used fat I belive you need to seive and remove water, I was going to do something a bit more involved to make sure that the oil was really clean.
I thought an immersion heater, a simple electric feul pump, a std filter, some simple gauze filters and a hot plate for water evaporation would do the job. That would allow me to produce a tank of veg oil in probably about 24 hours (how big is an immersion heater, about 30 gallons?)
One of the LR E/O/M mags had an article about modifying the feul system, although it wasn't clear if it was to create a 10% veg oil run or mixed.
A temperature controlled valve was fitted just before the feul pump which would switch over to veg oil at the right temp, so you ran on D till warmed and then prewarmed the oil for ease and moved over to that.
They reckoned that you needed to run the engine on D before shutting down to ensure the injectors didn't get oil sat in them.
I wonder if you could put a secondary pump to empty injector pump of oil and reduce this run down time to just a minute of idling when you get where you are going.
Since I have a spare 90 tank sat around and a friend has decided to keep his 110 it looks like we might do a conversion on his as a trial run since it's easy to put a second tank into a 110.
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the A frame nut is huge, I think it is 32mm. You *NEED* a spanner as well, socket won't go on and I failed to find any solution.
Strangely Homebase or Focus has a set of spanners ranging from 32mm upwards for £14.
aligning the a frame legs afterwards was a bugger too, a frame joint will bang out with some effort, but looking at it I would try to find someone who can press the new one in.
it's not a difficult job, you'll probably spend longer getting the old metalistic bushes out than all the other bits
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All I took was a set of TPC (Tactical Pilatage Charts, for air pilots, you know) and a GPS to give Lat, Long.
This worked fine, if you get lost ask the man on a donkey, there is always one of them, anywhere.
Geoff
Don't know if you can still get the TPC maps as a civi, I know I can get them from work if I wanted, and will have to remember them, certainly our GIS in work has TPC for all the areas I've looked at so far, perhaps a quick peek at Morcco might be interesting.
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I use an IPAQ 3630 with OziExplorer. The PDA is pretty tough IMO, I dropped the whole thing from chest height onto a solid floor and it was fine. it's also rattled around in the truck a LOT. The accessories are more fragile, sodding power lead has an intermittent connection.
OziExplorer has the big advantage of being able to make your own maps, to a certain degree of accuracy. I did that for a trip to Washington, mixing maps and satallite imagery to ensure we were going were we wanted.
The track logging is fantastic, I have a tool to convert the OziExplorer plt files to google earth KML files so I can see it in that afterwards.
Ozi is created by a really small company, and he deserves a good plug IMO. Cost is cheap, <$100 IIRC for the PC and WindowsCE version, he even does a 3D plug in, so you can use DTED data to view the ground layout on PC.
On top of that you can still load things like TomTom onto the PDA and use it in a simple manner.
If you look around you can find the OS maps @ 25k for the whole of the UK, good quality maps of spain and probably some for Morocco. Of course I couldn't comment on the legalities of this, and even if I had them I wouldn't know that they took about 3 gig of drive space and if i couldn't supply them it wouldn't be on DVD and defintely wouldn't be for cost only.
I noticed that the IPAQ go pretty cheap on Ebay, most seem to have duff batteries but they can be replaced.
I guess I am biased, the PDA route really suits me, I'm a software engineer, so I can and do write applications to run on it which I couldn't do for a garmin etc.
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I've done a few bearings now, so I'm getting quite a refined technique. however I too kept finding that play would come back, never tried the end float method, but have tried the torque method. I even bought a socket specially for the job.
Still they come loose.
What i've settled on, and they haven't loosened after this, is to do the job as normal, but once the first nut is on to a sensible tightness I put the wheel back on with 2/3 nuts and then I tighten until the play goes out from the wheel. You can get a lot more leverage using the wheel than just trying to test with the hub only.
I know that technically I might be overtightenning the bearings, however I figure given the choice of wobbling wheel (and the wear on the bearings) versus slightly too tight I'll go for the latter.
I do now put the outer nut on and torque it up to 65nm (I think - it's written in my manual) which is a lot tighter than I could manage with a box spanner.
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Stephen,
what was the chassis like then, a big plus in my mind is that the chassis should be in mint condition since they will have been only on road and in a nice climate?
I appreciate I can get something UK sourced for less, however these are high spec and can be assumed to be have been unabused.
The comment about false milage is interesting, makes me wonder if I should consider something closer to the 100KM mark as the milage will be genuine, price low and condition good.
Dodgy dealers this side of the water I could see winding the clock back and making a good bit more money. On the other hand I have contact that could probably translate the Jap service history which might make for an interesting conversation...
Thanks for all the input, I still have plenty of time to make my mind up, I also have some other options, a neighbour has an MoT failure disco on his drive which he is ignoring at the moment, I am wondering what it failed on and what he might want to get rid of the problem.
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no particular need to be perfectly flat (nearly a 180degree field of view) , I just leave mine on the cage, although it has been pushed off once or twice.
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SimonB will recon the alternator for you. He did mine last year, I got mate rates, so you'd have to ask him what he would charge, however it will be less than the cost of a new alt.
He might even have one in stock to do a straight swap so no time off road. PM him and find out Trev.
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Here's one from today at the bustard inn. Took a friend out in his LHD Ford Expidition. He saw me and RR take the shortcut into the car park and thought he'd follow.
but also did some nice lanes before that
Salisbury plain lanes seemed closed, the barriers seemed up on all the entrances we wanted to the centre.
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Thanks, I'm having a look at that right now. The site I found was http://www.shipleybridge.co.uk/index.html
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Looks like I might be taking on a new job and it means I will likely have a longer drive to work than I do at the moment so I am thinking about getting another car to supplament the very off road biased def 90.
I noticed that at least one place is selling Jap import discos which are low mileage, high spec and, just to put a shine on, RAC inspected, 12 month warranty, cam belt changed.
The prices seem a very good deal so I was wondering if anyone had any opinions, it looks like about £9K for for a 1998 with ~33K on the clock for an example.
For info, the car will see only the most gentle of off roading and be primarily for my commute, say 20minutes to an hour each way, each day.
The Jap imports seem mainly tdi with auto box, exactly what I'd like.
I'm drawn to the disco because it means I know I can do nearly all my own maintence, plus I rob parts off both the 90 and disco depending on what I need on the road.
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Ahh a few minutes to reply.
The lines that are too short and wrong end fitment are to the left hand side of injector pump and the right hand side. I think left is input (as when the pump was upright on 2.25) and right is spill return.
The fuel lift pump is a bit of an unknown since it wasn't there! We had to remove the one from the 2.25 block and fit that in anticipation of things fitting.
Catflaps problem with the drivers side mount is what I thought when I looked at it.
All in all, we have now decided that on a cost-benefit analysis we are going to use the 2.25. It means stumping up the £120 for the rebore but we are sure we will get it all back together and running after that.
If anyone is interested in a 2.5NA in the Fareham area (PO13), however it is missing:
lift pump
starter motor
also
broken flywheel housing
broken inlet manifold
probably going to have a series 3 oil filter adaptor
we have a spare injector pump too, although I am very unconvinced about the condition of it.
The engine is free to turn (we had the starter motor turning it over) but don't really know if it is a runner.
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I got 2 power steering pumps, total cost £12. Just fitted one and apart from my stupidity in leaving the outlet pipe touching the alternator fan (for reference it takes about 30 seconds to cut all the way into the pipe) it would appear to be a good un.
bad side - just spent £30 + pp on the pipe I shagged.
Seemed like there was LOADS of wheels there, only I am pretty sorted at the moment there looked to be some good bargains for wheel tyre combo's.
didn't see scorpion at all, but did speak briefly to Simon about getting a brake kit, must call him and hand some cash over.
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My power steering pump seized, started squealing like mad, smell of burning, however it unseized shortly after and worked for at least 20 minutes before spitting it's guts out.
Also had an alternator seize in the same way with similar actions.
Will - any pointers on how to strip a 200tdi power steering pump, no obvious way of taking apart to me, I was planning a bit of destructive investigation just now.
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V quick reply -
pump is horizontal as found on all the later engines, pump looks about 90% the same as the 2.25 pump.
The positioning means the feul lines are too short then
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Since we took the 2.25 apart and found wear in the bore needing a £120 rebore we thought we'd look at the 2.5 that was also in the back of the truck when we got it.
We have mounted it to an engine stand and sorted out the starter motor and wiring, all was going well, with the engine turning over and stuff, and an exhaust section bodged on to just run it with when we came to the fuel system.
The lines appear too short to reach the position of the pump on the 2.5
The fitting to the pump are wrong - the feed is doneish, we swapped for the 2.25 connector, but the return/drain is totally wrong and requires some new bits.
I though that the feul systems were compatible, it would appear not at the moment - any one have any suggestions.
The aim was to run the engine up and see if it ran OK, if so we would then drop that into the S3. At the moment it looks like we would need to ruin the feul system for the 2.25 to check it.
I also note that the engine mounts are slightly different, the left side (looking out the windscreen) looks fine, just needs a swap, but the side under the injector pump is totally different, it looks like we would need to alter the chassis engine mounting.
So Q's,
1) What engine mount modifications are needed, I thought it was a straight drop in
2) Can we bodge a feul line onto the injector pump inlet, running a gravity feed, bypassing the feul pump, and also blanking off the spill/return line from the pump to get it running on the stand.
3) Would we need some of the bits from the 90 2.5NA feul system to make this work (or go and buy the correct fittings) or is there some knack needed to get it to work?
I thought the swap to a 2.5NA was a no brainer, but it seems to be fighting us, so any information or pointers to pages about swapping for the 2.5 would be appreciated, I can't seem to find any pages on google, loads about going to perkins and 200tdi etc
Someone one here will have done it so some detailed information would be appreciated before we go back to the 2.25 lump and pay for a rebore.
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chatting to someone who was setting out today and apparently the sand + water has made an evil mix, lots of stuckness going on....
should be a good day out for the marshals
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yep loud as f**k rattle that drives me barmy. surprising how quiet it is when you stop it.
Filled it with quite a few things, everything seems to eventually fall out or compress so it starts again.
I am thinking of just ripping the whole thing out and fitting a plexi screen of some sort so that it stops. I never open it anyway.
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Simon,
are you accepting cheques or cards on the day or cash only. I am 50/50 on whether I am gonna get a hand brake, it was 100% till the power steering pump threw it's hand in last month, but was wondering what payment method you are taking?
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meet by SR stand?
In any case I'll be the one with the land rover.
Sodbury just brings out the worst jokes - every damn time I go.
Remember we parked next to the other land rover, the green one.
Actually is it just me or does anyone else get a sense of panic about whether they will manage to find thier LR again after parking?
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I had rattle that I couldn't find for ages. Then the car wouldn't start. Turned out that it was the starter motor that had fell out/off.
always amazes me the lengths this truck will go to to test my powers of deduction.
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my 110 had a tracker system, but its up to the police to go and retrieve the vehicle once the tracker has been activated........... lack of man power is what they told me, which is fine, but 24 hours later i spotted 3 coppers asleep in a vauxhall astra, mcdonalds breakfast wrappers all over the dashboard, hidding up in the business estate where i work.. so not lack of manpower, just poor manpower management and a lazy unmotivated workforce....
This does not require Police. You can view the location on the web yourself and pop over for a visit, if you can get the police there as well, fine, if not I know what I plan on doing.....
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Ref a tracker system:
have a look on ebay at this mobile phone tracker system
The mobile companies opened up the locating of mobile phones (accuracy from 50m down to about 5m (supposedly on vodaphone) about a year or 2 ago. You use a website to see where the phone is an example is traceamobile.
The kit on ebay was something I was just about to look at making, however he is doing them cheaper than I could, the advantage of his kit over just using a mobile is that you can stow this inside a door or headlining and iit will still work, a mobile would too, but it's a bit large and fragile and would need special wiring (or at least some modification of a car charger for your mobile).
Alternatively, I leave a mobile in the car on charge and on all the time, I don't think a thief is going to switch it off straight away.
Mobile phone tracking is better than GPS based tracker systems in a lot of cases since it also works indoors.
Costs are better than the commercial systems, since subscription is about £10 a year for the traceamobile service.
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Zeus timing gears, no, can't mention that, it could rival the scorpion thread
check out the 1974 revision date, my work mates have some seriously old carp in thier cupboards.
heeeelp!!!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi Warren,
sounds like the clutch slave cylinder has gone, not uncommon. Good news is that it's not difficult to fix or expensive. Some of the job description is optional, and I'm describing from memory
1) remove gear box x member (it's 3 bolts on each side)
2) remove exhaust down pipe
The reason for 1 & 2 is that removing the down pipe increases the access considerably, but you can try without, to me I think it will take the same or more time without removing, but is more annoying and requires lots of extensions and UJs for the sockets
3) the slave cylinder is just below the starter motor, and is held on by 2 bolts, one has a hose bracket on. It might be worth trying to undo the hydraulic connection at the cylinder now, if it isn't keen to go then don't force it, it might have been on there some time and you don't want to round it off or break the pipe.
If it comes undone then undo the two bolts and then complete the removal of the pipe.
4) the slave cylinder will now come out, there is a shaft poking out of the dust seal in the end, if you are lucky this might be retained by a clip inside and hang free, most likely the clip has broken and it will come with the cylinder. DONT DROP THIS INTO THE BELLHOUSING!!!
OK, if you need to now then you can get the old slave in a vice and undo the pipe, there isn't anything to really do with the new one, just make sure the bleed screw is in there and if the shaft came out poke this into the new end.
Offer up te new one, if the arm came out offer up at a slight angle, as the arm will droop, the balled end needs to fit into a cup inside, offering at an angle will mean it should droop into it. If it stayed in there then just poke it into the rubber cap.
You will feel a bit of resistance as you are compressing the slave cylinder as you push the new one in.
Pop the bolts in and get everything lined up, the bracket can be a bit of a bugger.
Once it is all tightened up you need to bleed the clutch.
Once you are happy with the bleeding put the exhuaust and gbox x member back on and that's it.
It might be worth considering doing the master cylinder as well as the increased pressure in the new slave can cause the seals in that to go next, again not expesnsive and not too bad a job.
Can't think of anything else, it's not that difficult a job, a bit fiddly in places.