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steve_a last won the day on October 23

steve_a had the most liked content!

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About steve_a

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  1. I heard a tall tale about someone who was manufacturing a specific seal, they sent a prototype to China with a couple of holes, I think it was to evaluate the quality of the production. The next minute this seal was being sold all over the place, but complete with the holes so that it didn't work...
  2. LR Disco 1 Diagnostics Tool

    D1 V8? In that case you can look at https://discoweb.org/showthread.php?t=79207 which is about RoverGauge and open source tool to talk to the 14CUX. It requires a bit of wiring to get the serial input, I can't recall the details but they are linked there. Nanocom can do this too, but to be honest, that's an expensive option if it's just for the old V8. If the D1 300Tdi EDC then I'm not sure there is any option.
  3. Thor D2 - Questions on components

    Eep, nope, the bung you also referred to is the source for brake vacuum boost and is a kind of push fit fitting, easily broke. The ABS pump is exactly that and used for the ABS brake control and not for manual braking.
  4. New Series - RR Heavy

    And South Australia ;-) I keep mentioning it on Facebook. I reckon your photo dismantle method would be awesome for maintenance DVDs for kit, if we ever get a bit of kit that we want a super dooper workshop manual/DVD we'll give you a shout. A lot of the military kit has manuals, but the squadies can never have it dumbed down enough and they would be great.
  5. Bertone/Daihatsu gearbox. How good?

    If you go for that gearbox and transfer box combo it looks like you will need to do something with the high low lever or you'll be operating it with your anus.
  6. 300Tdi, FIP

    You could try a peugot or vw one if you can find on in a scrap yard? You could try the robbing buggers over my way, make sure you are sat down when you ask them how much. I'm sure they'll refurbish it first and coat it with bullshotomium to stop any further wear..... I noticed when I was doing the tuning that the horizontal pin hard worn a slight groove into the boost compensater pin, but since I was turning through about 20 degrees it didn't matter. Thought about just tweaking through 4 or 5 degrees, slightly more or less fuel and hence tune. Just curious about your oval comment, and I'm sure you know, but the pin has different angles for boost compensation as you rotate it, so it will kind of be oval, as I said I found an actual groove where the fuel governor pin rides on it, which is the only wear I'd expect.
  7. 300Tdi Fuel Injection Pump

    There is a pretty cheap ebay kit containing all the seals for the pump available, it was a few years ago now I bought it and fitted a fair bit of it. ebay search There is also a good set of videos first video showing the process to do it in place and finally Simon Brown has a post here in the tech archive forums detailing some of the same work. If you are happy to remove from the car then it's going to be heaps easier, but presents it's own set of problems for alignment afterwards. The only thing I remember is making sure you mark the shaft properly, not like I did , and that you should push down on the throttle shaft while you remove the plate or I reckon you can bend the linkage, which makes for very strange running afterwards. No leak after the job for at least 12 months until I sold mine.
  8. TD5 Rear Cam oil seal

    It should be doable. Pull the rear sound cover off if you can't get at the bolts (I pulled mine off a month or two ago and filed it for further use and have only just remembered, so it doesn't make much difference to noise). I wonder if taking the rocker off might give you a bit more room and maybe even an option to push it out from the inside. Putting back on will involve a bit of leverage I guess, they just push in, but having said that, it's reasonably tight. Why they didn't just use a bolt on metal plate with gasket I have no idea... BTW even with the gearbox out, the access is still pretty average
  9. 2001 Disco 2 transmission help.

    Did you follow the correct filling procedure, it's an awkward one. Car level, filler plug out, fill till starts to come out. Start car and keep filling as someone moves through the gears until you get a dribble out. Next thing to check is the wiring, it can chafe around the rear of the transfer box. If the display shows the correct gear as you move through the box then the xyz switch is OK, assuming alignment is correct. After that you need to get the box diagnosed by something like nanocom and see if there are any clues. The other mechanical check is to put pressure gauges on the test ports and see if everything is correct. Use of pressure sensors and an oscilloscope appears to be a much better way of doing this though, with the ability to almost tell exactly what is wrong from the traces. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vM2eylbj4Go
  10. R380 Gearbox missing drain plug

    And make sure you can get the filler out first.... If it's a torx thingy then give it a really good clean before starting, they don't take much rubbish in them to cause poor grip and round out... then you have some interesting times. The last one I did I reckon was also red or blue thread locked in... didn't get it out until the whole box was off and I could weld something to it.
  11. TD5 Flex Plate

    Pretty sure you are going to need a new flywheel. The auto flywheel has less mass (that looks beefier from memory) and *also* has holes for each of the triangle tips of the flex plate. Otherwise you are going to find it difficult to bolt it to the torque converter - the hole at the bottom is not really for doing those up - you might manage, maybe, but I tried once (don't ask!).
  12. Blown engine management fuse

    EDC still has throttle cable doesn't it. 99% sure mine did, as the cruise control would operate the vacuum and drag the pedal down and I'm sure I remember the cable being on the pump.
  13. Discovery parts catalogue - japanese import?

    Don't sweat it, there isn't anything different. I think the binnacle is actually the same, it's facia of the speedo dial that is different, it will probably have both kph and mph marked (I wish my Aus discovery did). The audio system may have some differences, but it's mainly because if it's a high line model it needs line out not speaker out (you can get a doodad off the internet to convert it, otherwise you get terrible hum). And the other thing might be that it's EDC. I had one before I left the UK and it was immaculate condition, I was gutted to leave it there, but we'd not owned it quite long enough.
  14. I think the oil enters on the plug that sits face down in the head drivers side front. I'd struggle to be convinced that the oil enters at the actual injector connectors and wicks up around and down. The O ring comment is confusing, there are only the 2 o rings as shown in the tech archive on the same plug and if they fail the oil will go down the outside, not down the wires. The only other O rings are the ones on the injectors, and he can't be talking about them. It's reputed that a perm fix is to cut the loom on the outside say 2" from the plug as it goes into the rocker cover and then just reconnect with solder. The solder basically stops the wicking effect of the wire and the oil goes no further than the join.
  15. 300tdi revs dropping to 1500rpm

    Have you checked for any diesel leaks. My last 300 was from 95 and not long before I sold it the pump developed a leak from the rear distributor seal. Thinking back and triggered by looking at the battery I replaced from that truck for poor start issues, I wonder if it was a bit of air in the lines after sitting. The other thing to check might be the fuel solenoid, perhaps this isn't opening fully, restricting the flow enough to cause the revs to drop after the surplus fuel in the pump was used.