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steve_a last won the day on November 24 2016

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  1. You could try a peugot or vw one if you can find on in a scrap yard? You could try the robbing buggers over my way, make sure you are sat down when you ask them how much. I'm sure they'll refurbish it first and coat it with bullshotomium to stop any further wear..... I noticed when I was doing the tuning that the horizontal pin hard worn a slight groove into the boost compensater pin, but since I was turning through about 20 degrees it didn't matter. Thought about just tweaking through 4 or 5 degrees, slightly more or less fuel and hence tune. Just curious about your oval comment, and I'm sure you know, but the pin has different angles for boost compensation as you rotate it, so it will kind of be oval, as I said I found an actual groove where the fuel governor pin rides on it, which is the only wear I'd expect.
  2. There is a pretty cheap ebay kit containing all the seals for the pump available, it was a few years ago now I bought it and fitted a fair bit of it. ebay search There is also a good set of videos first video showing the process to do it in place and finally Simon Brown has a post here in the tech archive forums detailing some of the same work. If you are happy to remove from the car then it's going to be heaps easier, but presents it's own set of problems for alignment afterwards. The only thing I remember is making sure you mark the shaft properly, not like I did , and that you should push down on the throttle shaft while you remove the plate or I reckon you can bend the linkage, which makes for very strange running afterwards. No leak after the job for at least 12 months until I sold mine.
  3. It should be doable. Pull the rear sound cover off if you can't get at the bolts (I pulled mine off a month or two ago and filed it for further use and have only just remembered, so it doesn't make much difference to noise). I wonder if taking the rocker off might give you a bit more room and maybe even an option to push it out from the inside. Putting back on will involve a bit of leverage I guess, they just push in, but having said that, it's reasonably tight. Why they didn't just use a bolt on metal plate with gasket I have no idea... BTW even with the gearbox out, the access is still pretty average
  4. Did you follow the correct filling procedure, it's an awkward one. Car level, filler plug out, fill till starts to come out. Start car and keep filling as someone moves through the gears until you get a dribble out. Next thing to check is the wiring, it can chafe around the rear of the transfer box. If the display shows the correct gear as you move through the box then the xyz switch is OK, assuming alignment is correct. After that you need to get the box diagnosed by something like nanocom and see if there are any clues. The other mechanical check is to put pressure gauges on the test ports and see if everything is correct. Use of pressure sensors and an oscilloscope appears to be a much better way of doing this though, with the ability to almost tell exactly what is wrong from the traces.
  5. And make sure you can get the filler out first.... If it's a torx thingy then give it a really good clean before starting, they don't take much rubbish in them to cause poor grip and round out... then you have some interesting times. The last one I did I reckon was also red or blue thread locked in... didn't get it out until the whole box was off and I could weld something to it.
  6. Pretty sure you are going to need a new flywheel. The auto flywheel has less mass (that looks beefier from memory) and *also* has holes for each of the triangle tips of the flex plate. Otherwise you are going to find it difficult to bolt it to the torque converter - the hole at the bottom is not really for doing those up - you might manage, maybe, but I tried once (don't ask!).
  7. EDC still has throttle cable doesn't it. 99% sure mine did, as the cruise control would operate the vacuum and drag the pedal down and I'm sure I remember the cable being on the pump.
  8. Don't sweat it, there isn't anything different. I think the binnacle is actually the same, it's facia of the speedo dial that is different, it will probably have both kph and mph marked (I wish my Aus discovery did). The audio system may have some differences, but it's mainly because if it's a high line model it needs line out not speaker out (you can get a doodad off the internet to convert it, otherwise you get terrible hum). And the other thing might be that it's EDC. I had one before I left the UK and it was immaculate condition, I was gutted to leave it there, but we'd not owned it quite long enough.
  9. I think the oil enters on the plug that sits face down in the head drivers side front. I'd struggle to be convinced that the oil enters at the actual injector connectors and wicks up around and down. The O ring comment is confusing, there are only the 2 o rings as shown in the tech archive on the same plug and if they fail the oil will go down the outside, not down the wires. The only other O rings are the ones on the injectors, and he can't be talking about them. It's reputed that a perm fix is to cut the loom on the outside say 2" from the plug as it goes into the rocker cover and then just reconnect with solder. The solder basically stops the wicking effect of the wire and the oil goes no further than the join.
  10. Have you checked for any diesel leaks. My last 300 was from 95 and not long before I sold it the pump developed a leak from the rear distributor seal. Thinking back and triggered by looking at the battery I replaced from that truck for poor start issues, I wonder if it was a bit of air in the lines after sitting. The other thing to check might be the fuel solenoid, perhaps this isn't opening fully, restricting the flow enough to cause the revs to drop after the surplus fuel in the pump was used.
  11. You need to tell us what state ideally too, because the prices vary a heap. $5k here in SA would, depending on the day, get a reasonable D1 TDi. You'd get a reasonable D1 V8 as well, probably slightly newer and maybe a bit better condition. I don't think you'd get a sniff of a Defender for that in SA though. It might not be a popular option, but go have a look at the Great Wall cars, their resale value is terrible, but you might get a 5 year old vehicle for $5k and as a backpacker I'd expect that this might present less opportunities for maintenance
  12. Is it an EDC or mechanical version? This just rings a bell as a sign of the EDC injector having a fault - there isn't that many about and, to make it worse, AFAIK the injector is not available, only refurb of yours is the option. Have a google on the 300TDi EDC to check it out, but I believe all or most UK 300 Autos were EDC (Australia apparently didn't have any). Your other option if EDC is to get a manual pump and injector. You can fit them to swap to mechanical only. All of this is bumkin if it ain't EDC. If not then it would suggest a fuel issue, though it's strange, the lift pump is best to have, but you can definitely run without it and probably notice no difference (I didn't), and everything else would tend to be it either works or not on these motors.
  13. The magazines are really of interest to those with vehicles until about 2004 (last D2's) and Defenders till last year. But even the defender stuff hasn't changed since forever, the engine being the only evolution. I just don't see your majority of D3, 4, 5 et al and Range Rover owners being interested in a land rover mag. So if your subject hasn't barely changed in 10 years, how can you write new stuff? Personally I'd be interested in a worldwide mag (probably online) with articles written about travel in rovers, bush repairs and home fixes with less than ideal kit. * Home mechanics (and not using 4 posters, specialist tools you can't get etc.) * Bush mechanics * Designs and 3D print files for specialist tools/home made tool solutions * Competition coverage * Travel articles With the workshop manuals, microcat, the tech forum here, AULRO good oil and others the 3 pages of coverage for how to do something is pretty lame.
  14. The later headlights are a nice design, I'd suggest any leak is likely to be tired O rings on the covers. Dry it out and replace all the O rings and see how you get on.
  15. Viscous fan will always spin, but if the engine is doing say 2000rpm then then fan, unlocked, will be doing 800 for example. Once locked up it will be one for one. TDi's run nice and cool, I removed the viscous fan off mine in the UK and had an electric for the odd time (mainly off road) that it was needed. So your gauge is probably fine, even here in Aus, the 300TDi in winter (so usually about 15 to 20 deg c ) it would take 15 mins to get some hot air out of the heater. On overrun in the Snowy mountains I actually had the engine temperature drop below warm up after a fair bit of time coming down....