teslo
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Posts posted by teslo
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OK, so situation is oposite than i previously described...
Yesterday we were together with friend in garage and thinking and measuring how to mount new rod in place...
To compensate lift you have to shorten panhard rod which is oposite to my previous thoughts. So in this area is it OK. But there is still something we are not satified with.
Adjustable end have so short thread that when we were trying to adjust rod to position where is no play in thread we had to screw it in so long that axle started to stick out on the other side of car
For me it means that is not heavy duty enough for our purpose
because thread is weak point.Are there any manufacturer who have really HD adjustable panhard rods?
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Hello,
have anybody experience with paddock' adjustable panhard rod? Friend of mine bought one and he found out that it seems to be too short...
To achieve at least standard lenght you must unscrew bracket to position that only about 1.5cm of thread is used( of 6cm). To compensate lift( which is smothing what is made for) you have unscrew it almost completly.
Thank you
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Consider also bodylift instead of spacers. I it is done properly i could be more efficient than spring spacers( COG, castor, propshafts, stressed bushes...)
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and what about vent hole at the bottom of dizzy?
My experience is that if you have your ingition system in good order you dont't need that kind of thing. As was somewhere here stated before...use genuine parts, tak care of system, use some silicone sealant and grease and you will be fine. If you want something more go for EDIS, MS...
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I would think about the same. Something on the dizzy( or inside).
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Hi,
how does halfshaft look like? Rear are from one piece? Front hub flanges are separate from shaft? Are you sure that those 4 mm are only difference( bolt holes for driving members are same)?
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I've relocated ECU under dash( but i have LHD). All other things i did so far was to seal dizzy and fitted snorkel. It is working so far. Next things to do will be breather for dizzy and engine. Be sure all parts are in perfect condition and beware of cheap replacement parts.
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Some shots from trip in Romania
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Reggie, it looks very impressive. Did you change also gearing somehow?
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I have Britpart Blue bushes on my RRC with no problem so far. It is there for about two years. I will be changing front radius arms in short time so i will check them. To new arms i will put Polybushes.
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I ended up with Britpart HD( +50mm) rear springs at front( custom made HD winch bumper with SW Husky) and some kind( i believe Bearmach) of blue springs( i don't know rating etc) at rear( LPG tank and full size Simex spare wheel). Also i added spring isolators to rear springs. They are acting also as 1cm spacers. I am very satisfied with this setup. Car is leveled and handling( with Procomp shocks) is very good.
Be carefull with lenght of shocks( if they are long enough).
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This is what i need. do you know part no. of it, or where can i get one?
thanks
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Hello,
please could you make photo of that transducer? Is there more types? I have also 3.5V8 with hotwire EFI, but i don't have in my setup speed transducer. Speedo cable is going directly from gearbox to binnacle. I would like to add speed transducer to my setup as i am going to change whole engine to 3.9 with 14CUX ecu etc.
thanks
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ARB is good choice. And is very easy to fit. No welding required.
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i have 34"Simex in combination of 1.4Transfer box, V8 and autobox and there is no problem with power. Even in low range. Autogerabox can compensate this quite good.
Now i am thinking about putting there 4.11 R&P from ashcorft. But only because i destroyed R&P in my rear diff( ARB)( someone who was building diff forgot to put thread adhesive on screws on ring
). Now i need to buy either one std ratio or two 4.11 ratio R&P and put back my old Transfer box. -
Here is one from Slovakia...
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I would say that 1.4 ratio will be fine.
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what do you guys do about the front arch liners (if they are the same as discovery ones?) I dont particularly wish to encourage mud to fly up the inside of my front wings.
cheers
jim
nothing. i don't have them there( RRC).
But mate of mine put same arches to his Discovery I and if i remember well he gave them away.
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Hi,
I hope that i am not very wrong...
3.9 engine is closer to 4.2. So i will choose that. Oil filter is the same for all V8, but fuel filters are different. at least there are two types.
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hi, i have 2" lift springs, 3cm bodylift and cutted arches( with extended flares). I run 33*10.5 tyres on disks with ET around -40( 7cm outer than standard disk) and there is no rubbing at all...also LT230 with 1:4 ratio.
i have no issue with propshafts and stability. steering is "normal". No problem with high speeds on highway.
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ba carefull, these on eBay are for 3 door version. But they are the same as Paddocks( same picture).
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Hi, first of all try sparkplugs if they are not dirty and working properly( cables, coil etc.)
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1. I guess so, it only screws up one way. The pick up tube was just a press fit though. Maybe its fallen off?!
There is one screw which holds the pick up tube...
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Here is little beter pictures.
because thread is weak point.
). Now i need to buy either one std ratio or two 4.11 ratio R&P and put back my old Transfer box.
BW to LT230-How Hard/Difficult?
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
But when you have all parts prepared, than it is straight forward job.
I changed it on mates RRC( V8, auto) during one evening( few hours).