yellow
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Posts posted by yellow
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Hi all,
After many years in Asia and now back in Europe I am in the market for a new defender. My last one was a 110 TD5 with GKN Overdrive. I drive many long distance trips, and knowing a Disco might make more sense, I prefer the Defender shape.
Now I need to make a choice, within budget.
My criteria are a little more ooommph (remaps) and less noise (GKN overdrive or 6 gears). Occasional off-road is planned... Other criteria would be maintainability and creature comfort (Rear passangers as well) I am biased towards a 110, but could look into a 90 or 130 as well, as long as the 90 has forward-facing rear seats. Also not too fond of the 'Kahn over-the-top' styles.
My options:
- Get a TD5 and change the seats front and middle with the Tdci seats set. Add a Disco transfer case or a GKN/Roamerdrive overdrive for better cruising. Would need airco as well.
- Get a Tdci and be done with it (Really? is the 6th gear the same as the overdrive ratio I would get on the TD5?)
Although I would drive mostly in Europe, I would certainly not mind a Right Hand Drive.
My question would be which one to look for and where besides ebay, gumtree and autotrader to look for these vehicles?
Thanks !!!
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I' ve recently moved to HK and am now looking for either a nice Series or older 110/Defender. I might be persuaded into getting a Classic RR, but as of yet, I have yet to see one in the flesh.
Does anyone here on the forum have ideas on where to start?
On my walks just behind my house I did find an abandoned Series I, all things steel have completely disappeared, and it's location is too remote for a salvage. For that one I would need chassis, bulkhead and front panel to begin with...
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Like you said, might be the diff. Take the prop off and check for play. Easily done by turning the plate where the prop was attached. Play in the input bearing can lead to clunking as well. This play can be in a circular motion, but also back and forth. It basically means that there is too much space for the pignon wheel to move before the crown wheel is engaged.
Another way of trying this is to reattach the prop and jack up one wheel. Pull the handbrake and turn the jaked wheel. The wheel should not turn much. But using this method also takes int account any play that is apparent in the prop.
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Where was the buzz coming from? Middle of rear loading area? Had the key in the ignition? If so, better check your fuel pump
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As far as the extended test drives are concerned, the dealer does not mind, as long as I pay... Also called renting...
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Looking for a new defender in the very near future. After a bout of defenders in all guises (90, 110, 127) and motorisations (V8, NA, TD, TDi, TD5) I am quite certain it will be a 110...
But which engine to choose? I will be doing mostly normal roads, little forest roads and green lanes, even less rough terrain. I had a 110 with a GKN overdrive and loved everything about it, but now with the newer TDci and 6 gears I do not know anymore. I can take the newest one for a spin and test drive, but that would give me a 'one hour' impression rather than a 'that's how I actually use it' impression.
Due to the unavailability of the GKN overdrive, I would probably look at fitting a Disco t-box to the TD5, but would it be necessary with the TDCi or even possible? I know I would need to remap the TDCi chip to get a bit better motorway performance.
What are your impressions on TD5 vs. TDCi?
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I did 100000 kms happily with a GKN overdrive in my 110 TD5. Had a Disco T-box in my 300Tdi 90. Both sold, but drove happily with both.
Towing a heavy trailer with the 110 was easier to get started and off the spot. Took some more 'welly' in the 90
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How much would it sell for? If within budget, a 130 please...
- extra tanks,
- Airco but retained front flaps
- flat floor in cab,
- Masai roof lights or tropical roof,
- Utility rear box
Oh, and VAT-less, as export to EU to VAT registered company...
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Basically on the Disco the top of the box is different (Further forward or back, I do not remember...) Innards should be the same.
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You got a point there...
Happy hunting
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I would start by looking at the rear drums.
Sounds to me like the brakes were out of adjustment, so when you stamped on the pedal, the shuttle valve moved in the pressure differential warning actuator - this would make the warning light come on.
You've now got no brakes as the shuttle valve has moved across and stayed there....
Start by adjusting the brakes right up on the rear so the drums are locked on, then bleed the system fully as normal - preferably with a pressure bleeder. You may have to strip the PDWA though if it doesn't drop back into place.
Matt
Mmmm... The existence of this shuttle valve is completely new to me. I will check out the workshop manuals to check out the workings and location of the valve. Also I would need to know the 'procedure' to strip this valve...
When driving the vehicle from Bristol to Belgium I did experience no braking problems, such as pulling to one side, etc... It just started with this emergency braking...
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If you pump the pedal do you get pressure?
No pressure whatsoever... Made for interesting stoppage methods, using engine braking and the transmission brake.
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When reversing into a street, and seeing traffic coming my way, I decided that the nitwit behind me did not see me quick enough and I stamped the brakes. This is a 130 with QuadTec body, but empty, so not overloaded at all, rear drums.
The brake light came up (So I expect a loss of fluid) but late night checks did not reveal any of the brake hoses burst or cracked. The brake pedal feels useless, as there is no counter pressure at all.
Where to start looking? Would I be correct that as a safety measure, it would be best to:
- Change master cylinder
- Change brake hoses
- Change rear cylinders
Or could there be a vacuum issue, something to do with the booster?
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But you are used to driving RHD as well, so why not buy in the UK , swop the lights out, and be happy... As it will be a non-commercial, I see nothing wrong with that.
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Bought a 1898 127 over the weekend, and the V5c states it is a 110 SW. Weight and MTM restrictions as per 110 SW as well...
The chassis does 'feature' the boxed plates though...
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they cannot all have more at once down to the logistics.
I hope you do not mean that the suppliers are snowed in...
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check forums like Horizons Unlimited... Vast treasure cove of information... Although mostly focused on motorcycles, the 'rules' are valid for 4x4s as well...
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What 110 Defender? AFAIK the airco can blow hot air, but will take the hot air from the heater core matrix...
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Come on, it's Sunday... Even Fridge has the right for this daily 'Blond' moment...
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Probably an earth problem. Try running an extra earth wire from the lights to the chassis.
Had this as well on a 110, took me ages to find the fault, ran that wire and sold the vehicle an hour later. Never got round to test it, but for the buyer i hope it worked...
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Just bought two Landies off the 'Bay', a 127 and a 90 both with T&T, so driveable. Now I need to pick them up. As this is a one-way trip to Belgium with the two vehicles, I was looking into buying a relatively cheap trailer to drive one of them back behind the other. Otherwise I will have to invite SWMBO for a shopping trip to the UK, which might turn out more expensive in the long run...
Any one know of a trailer/transporter for sale in that area?
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a "Bitsa" with unknown history and or no reciepts = run
Run to the local constabulary that is... Like has been said, better report such vehicles... It could be 'your' vehicle next time around
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Free naan bread for Range Rover owners at their local curry restaurant?
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Wishing him and his family all the strenght needed to get through this...
One would think that they have been punished enough already
Sick and tired of the fraudulent Landys
in International Forum
Posted
Same issue here. What would be a better solution? The scams do not seem to be too bad for ebay to do anything about it...
Looking for a Defender all of a sudden became much less interesting...