yellow
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Posts posted by yellow
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a bent tube and a bush
I doubt that this Bush and bent tube are capable of sitting on my rear cross member and hold my spare tire...
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Do you think he has a twin battery set-up? And a split charge?
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Second on the panhard bushes... Easy fix as well...
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Yellow,
How fast were you going when the blow out happened?
I was doing around the speed limit, 70kph, and the road just beyond the pics is actually quite bendy.
I just came out of a left handed bend, where the nearside front tyre blew out, and I had to keep out of the ditch I was steering towards, when all of a sudden the vehicle corrected as well, and putting one and one together, I ended up like on the pics.
My wife was stunned as well, after overcoming the initial shock, as she knows I do not like speed (hence my choice of vehicle) and keep to the limits of law and vehicle.
As for the accident, the owner of the fence I wrecked told me that I was the third one crashing through it, so it is a trouble spot. It was just a misfortune regarding the car, but I am enormously relieved that I was able to crawl out and have minor damages.
I have contacted P&P and Richards, and will start dismantling the vehicle this weekend to see if I need a new chassis. If so, the parts will be sold separately. For the body, I am looking for a replacement, preferably an early 110 SW with lift-up handle doors. The cage will be added, as per SWMBO, and trust me, I will obey!
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The Arenal volcano, if I am not mistaken...
and there's still plenty of these 'Series' driving around there...
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Blow out on the off side front, then ended up in the near side ditch due to 'over correction'
(I drive a UK vehicle in Belgium)
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I had a 'bit of a get-off' last Friday and looking to either to go through the 'rebuild' route or buy a 'good' second hand vehicle and add to that one according to my taste.
I will certainly add a roll cage this time. Looking at the state of the vehicle I think that the chassis is warped as well, hence the potential need for a new chassis.
So my options:
1. Salvage the engine and running gear (Mmmmm V8...) and buy a new chassis/rollcage/panels
2. Buy a second hand vehicle and add a cage to that one
Main questions are:
- When ordering a new chassis, would the company where I order be able to add the cage fixing points?
- Which company is preferred for workmanship regarding chassis and cage. (Price is important, but staying alive even more so)?
- Should I take a full external cage or a Camel Trophy style cage 50% outside and 50% inside?
- Is it easier to build from the axles up, or by a vehicle and add a cage?
- With the added weight of the cage, are there any upgrades I should think of as well (Steering, braking, springs and rollbars)?
I got out OK this time, but never want to have to go through this any more. I was alone in the vehicle but would certainl not have been able to forgive myself if my 3-year old would have been beside me.
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Sell your 1.41 and buy a 1.21... Save you the hassle of opening your box and changing the gears. You'll probably do not pay much more, but save a huge amount of time...
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... that the owner of the green Defender in the background should strongly consider some larger tires...
Nice V8 by the way... Will probably make your 'stock' 88 go like stink right now.
Are you also increasing your fuel tank?
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Only reason he used scrapiron was that devon4x4 was substantially more expensive for the same item.
Guess you pay for service...
I bet Devon would have packed and shipped the remaining items and you would not have had to bodge things in a panic...
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sorry for no tech but... you arent ruining your 90 are you Ced?
Went there this saturday and the 90 is more a 40... Only the rear tub, remnants of the bulkhead and the engine are on top of the chassis...
'Tubular space frame' was his answer when I asked the inevitable...
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Most efi problems (not all) are caused by air leaks. Yellow, you will notice about a dozen rubber pipies around the inlet manifold, these will go soft with age and let air in. Suggest you jubilee clip all of them, you will need to take the top half of the plenum chamber off to get to some of them.
You might find that one of the little vacuum pipes to the fuel pressure regulator (rear of manifold) has come off, that could easily cause the problem you describe.
You also need to make sure the throttle cable is not binding, the black adjuster is sometimes overtightened or not in the right place.
Somebody will be along soon with the "M" word.
I guess this could be it, also because when I stop the engine with the key, there is a sucking noise, as in a vacuum that is being filled.
Will dive on top of the engine tomorrow and check out the rubber pipes.
I already slackened the black adjuster on the throttle cable a tad, but the cable was not binding... (At least not like my last V8, which basically had an involuntary cruise control.
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My newly acquired 110 with a 3.5 V8 EFi (on petrol only, not gassed) transplant is cutting out when decelerating, mostly when down shifting or freewheeling between 3rd and 2nd... Really annoying, because I need to restart the car either by quickly releasing the clutch, or using the key.
It seems to idle really nicely, and going through the gears is no problem.
Anyone an idea?
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Using your old pads, and a effin' big screwdriver maybe?
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You'll probably need a different gearbox, as the gear change mechanism on a Disco box is located slightly different than on a 110
Otherwise, if you have all the sensors and the ECU then it should be not too much of an issue, although it might be that you'd need a Defender ECU as well.
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would fit only with a NA or TD... recess the rad, take out the fan, and fit a slam panel...
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Just to clarify with your second paragraph are you saying a Brand New richards chassis still takes off the 5 points leaving you with 9 points as it's a replacement? Or would you be left with the full 14 points?
No points are taken then.
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Do you have space on the sides? Two motorcycle rads with fans mounted sideways , one either side might do the job.
And what need is there for cooling? Constant or occasional? Do you have room on top of the engine, if so, you might get away with mounting a rad slanted on top, hummer style... (Mind you, it will fill up with mud faster than you can say 'Hey you, nutter' in a Liverpudlian accent)
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Post up some pics of the current situation...
What kind of cooling do you need?
Otherwise maybe a split radiator, or two motorcycle rads might be the option...
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Show us a pic of the engine and we'll be able to tell. Also, if you can, get an engine number off the block. That helps in identification.
As for the bolts, they are mostly imperial, but with added rust metric might fit as well. Seeing as you are in the States, you'll probably be best off getting an imperial set. You'll get pretty far with it.
Oh, and get some band-aids for your knuckles as well...
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He means release it slightly after full depression...
And if you cannot shift the lever in any direction, it really is time to open up the area under the cubby to have a look... You'll be amazed.
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They do sometimes, especially if not used for a while. Also worthwhile checking whether the linkages are not blocked by mud (although highly unlikely in your climate)
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First check your UJs and change them if unsure. (The easiest of jobs I believe) This is the most common cause of rumble.
While you have your rear and front props off, check for play in the diff flanges, as the bearing there could be on their way out. Again, this is a fairly easy job.
Re-assemble everything and take it for a drive. Still a rumble? Start checking the wheel bearings, and while you have the hubs off, check the driveshaft flanges on the rear wheels as well for play.
Re-assemble everything, and take it for another drive. Still a rumble? Could be your transfer box. Or your gearbox.
Be aware that the solution described here goes from 'cheap' to expensive, and from easy to hard...
If you want some one from the forum to come out to you and check for you, I am sure you will have no problem finding volunteers...
Happy hunting
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In the end I found hte biggest driver I could find and belted it, then drilled a hole in the handle and used another screwdriver to turn it and they came out.
Good, that's sorted then...
Then I spent 4 hours trying to get the cover off to no avail, it's stuck on there fast. Anyone know why that would be? Going to have another g on Friday if I work out how to take it off.Did you slacken the shoe adjusters in the back? Otherwise a good application of 'Big F'n Hammer' might do the trick...
Eberspacher or Webasto for a 88"
in Series Forum
Posted
Before the filter, but with its own filter is what I would do.