yellow
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Posts posted by yellow
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Mmmm... This is good info, but what I was looking for, was the average number of miles I would get out of the engine itself.
I mean, would I be looking at a new engine around 120000 or 150000 or 100000? (Averages please... I know there's plenty of 'lady-owners' out there with a heavy right foot...)
Also, what would a new engine set me back? I checked the RPi website, are there other 'preferred' suppliers of better than 'Orange' quality and repute?
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Anyone? I'd like to know before buying...
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I am in the market for a Range Rover, budget till about 3000 pounds.
Now, having had a look at the usual suspects, like eBay, Autotrader, Motors.co.uk, etc, I have seen plenty of P38s that have around 100-120k miles. I am from a diesel-upbringing, and have recently concentrated a bit more on V8 Defenders, so I am familiar with the fuel of the gods, but what can I expect from a P38 V8 (4.0 or 4.6) with that kind of mileage?
Like I said, I have a budget, but do not want to break the bank afterward by having to add a new engine. (alternatively, how much would a new engine put me back?)
My shopping list would be:
- Range Rover
- V8 on LPG
- Good condition
- wife does not really like red, I am no fan of green.
- Wife wants leather, pref cream coloured
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Neill,
Are you sure that there is not a dash switch which is in an off position, as a remnant of the old 110s? Door switches are a luxury you know...
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The filler cap of the fuel tank itself has a hole to breathe through. This could be blocked as you hear the sigh when you put the key in...
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In that case I'd say the vehicle lacks the structure to lift in one piece; It would be 'just as easy' to dis- and re-assemble
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'bout 1500-2000 for a crazy Dutch or American guy, even without engine...
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Link to Frost, for the door skinning tool:
About 42 pounds incl VAT
And a picture:
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Changed the steering box yesterday and the steering feels normal now.
Thanks for the help here...
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I have seen early 110's with similar rear seats, so I'd say this is a genuine one. Also, these one piece seats seem to be much more comfortable...
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Well, it's like this: When I have the vehicle parked on a hard surface, and the engine running, I can turn the wheel full lock to the right and then to the left with only the tip of my finger on the steering wheel. Usually I would only be able to do this with both hands, or maybe with one hand if I would be lucky.
I will change the 6 bolt with another 6 bolt I have left over from the vehicle I crashed 3 weeks ago. That one was OK (until the crash). If the issue persists, I will probably swap the front axle off the crashed one, as that would be less work than open up the one that is under the vehicle now...
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The vehicle is standard. Used to belong to the Staffordshire Police, then belonged to a aged gentleman farmer. This makes me believe that there are no mods. The engine was changed a couple of years ago, and thus a different pump might have been fitted, but both engines were LR standards, so again, I do not think this is it.
I have crashed a 110 recently, and still have the front axle,and 6 bolt box out of that one. Once the wather warms up a bit,and it stays dry, I will swap the front axle and box out, complete with linkages, etc...
Until then it will be back on my 1200 GSA to go back to work...
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Bought a 1986 110 with a nice V8. All is well (period rust, but good chassis) but the steering itself is extremely light. I have never experienced steering this light on a 110. It is barely manageable on high speeds, as it reacts immediately and quite strongly. Slow maneuvering is good and the steering does its work there, but only one second of attention loss could potentially be fatal, especially at higher speeds.
Anyone a clue on how to make the steering feel a bit more '110-like'? It's a standard 6 bolt box I am driving with
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I agree with 101nut. Most of the 101 items were special items for that vehicle only, so I'd say to convert one you'd be looking at finding someone who wants to do the opposite...
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Not dangerous I believe... More to do with MOT regulations.
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Which car? What steering lock? Give us more info and we can help you out there...
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I have two 110s with the six bolt boxes, which makes me believe that Land Rover fitted these as well as standard, but that could have been on 110s only. Should you need one, I have one going 'spare' as I crashed one of the 110s. (Not as a result of the steering box going ape, mind you...)
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Si par hasard tu en trouves une autre de la meme annee, contactes-moi...
Very nice vehicle, take good care of it
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Sorry to hijack the thread, but i'm trying to get my bumper bolts out to get an A-Bar on. The bolts come out OK but i'm afraid that the small plate they screw into will fall into the chassis and i'll never get it back. How do i keep the plate ready to take the bolts again when there's only the tiny hole in the side of the chassis to get a finger in?
Ta
DAVE
They will inevitably fall in, but are quite easy to fish out immediately. It helps if you have washed out the area first washing away the mud with plenty of water, and have a set of fingers available for dropping the long bolt through the hole once you've lined up everything...
Practice makes perfect...
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As far as BX seats, Maidstone is close enough to France. Might be OK to pick up some BX seats from there. More plentiful
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One pair I have looked at went for £180 (reasonable condition bases and backs), but 2 of the 4 mounting points on each of the bases were broken off......that makes the nigh on useless and I'm not paying that sort of money for useless seats!! Hence my wanted ad. You may argue that it's an easy fix, but I can't weld and hate paying for things to be 'bodged' when I can wait a while and buy the complete item in the first place and save a load of b#ggering about.
No need to weld if your current frames are fine. The back rest separates from the frame by a simple oversized circlip. Take that off and you can be swapping mounting frames in no-time...
Did this to facilitate the retrimming of a set of front seats on my Defender. Worked like a treat. And the back rests are usually OK, so if your base frame is OK, you can swap.
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I did the same a while back. I also had major issues streching the back rest cover far enough to clip the bottom seal.
Managed to do the following: (only works with the sets which have pockets on the rear of the back rests)
- Undo the back rest from the frame (undo big circlip) for ease of reach and balance
- Find yourself a good wooden board of a bit longer than the height but a tiny bit narrower than the width of the back rest.
- Make sure the board had rounded edges
- Slip the board in the rear pocket.
- Stand the board onto the floor, with the back rest upside down
- Push the frame gently down onto the board until the fabric is stretched enough to fasten the seal
This negates the need of a third hand, and putting pressure onto the fabric like this really saves your knuckles...
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Have driven in the standard Def seats, and modulars. Modulars have my preference.
And looking at the pics, I think the NAS and standard Def seats are the same, except for the fabric.
Now, when it comes to fabric, (...should you go the retrim route...), I can truly recommend the Outlast fabric. Really comfortable in a standard Def
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If it's anything like mine the lock stops are set for the tyres clearing while stationary and on flat ground. Off road and under articluation the tyres will then rub slightly due to the steering effect of the axle when articulated and the deflection in the bushes. Hence no fail as they did not rub 'at the time of the test'.
...probably also due to the flex in the walls of the tyres themselves whist off-roading...
Looking to buy a P38 of RRC on LPG
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
Good info, thanks. So it basically is like buying a lottery ticket and seeing whether it is the winning number...