yellow
-
Posts
294 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by yellow
-
-
but the S11 don't have chassis numbers but that is what he wanted
will he be alright with a 1970 S11 and getting it registered over in Holland
A 1966 SII 88, Dutch registered, which I bought in Holland had a chassis number stamped in the driver side spring hanger on the front. Better check, otherwise he might not want to make that deal...
-
When is someone going to develop a gizmo that makes noise at a frequency that cancels out LandRover noises ?
Bill.
there are too many frequencies I'd say...
-
... Use a GPS instead?
The mileage from a speedometer is useful to guarantee service intervals, but the speed can be tracked much more easily and accurately by GPS only.
And should you would ever want to sell the vehicle, the given mileage would be less than the actual mileage, assuming that you fit the larger tyres...
-
Why not just fit rubber bungs in all the holes ?
Rubber bungs would not get rid of internal condensation. The holes are there for this reason as well...
-
I expect yours is a TD5? Check the heat deflector shield of the exhaust. Could be vibrating against the inside of the passenger footwell, and the tunnel.
If yours is a Puma, then I dunno...
-
All you orrible lot are oop norf, only myself and Jim Attrill are down south and even Jim is a bit north for my liking
Is there anyone more south than you?
I'd guess that more south from you would mean going up north via the 'other' way...
-
Thanks RPR... The reason for me to get a vintage one is because I am looking to move over to the States... Not to sell the beast, but to drive it myself. I might think about that little business-on-the-side that I might start there then...
By the way, nice report and pictures of you in Moab in the NA edition of LRM...
-
As it says in the title...
I am looking for a vintage 110, with acceptable bodywork (meaning no powder doors, not 'challenged' i.e. dents every where) V8, with or without LPG or just a diesel, Preferably CSW or 5 door variant. I am planning a chassis-up rebuild, converting RHD into LHD if need be.
Where would I start looking, and what would be the budget I would be looking for. At the moment I have 'unlimited' budget, but that is only because the SWMBO has not read this post yet. She will probably cut off funds as soon as the total sum runs towards 6500 pounds, that is AFTER doing it up...
My options would be to
- Look for a V8, keep the V8 or upgrade to 3.9 EFI if the 3.5 is shot... Convert to LPG if the SWMBO tells me to
- Accept a 2.25 or 2.5 Petrol/Diesel and spoon in a 300Tdi, or V8
- Find a readily converted one and be happy with it.
The conversion to LHD will be done eventually, as will a chassis replacement if I see the need for welding
Another option is to completely build up a 110, as I have a 'V5' from a Belgian licensed 3 door 110 from 1984, buying the bodywork and drivetrain to spec. What budget would I be looking at then? I know it is not really legal
, but I have papers from the previous vehicle and the reason for 'dismantling' I could make it a 'Haynes' one, by telling the local DVLA that 'assembly is the reverse of disassembly' -
The cancelling tab is located under the steering wheel and the cowel. put the wheels in a straight position, take the steering wheel off, and the cowel, and reset the little tab.
It is that easy... (...after you have expressed yourself in perfectly politically uncorrect anglo-saxon to get the steering wheel off)
-
Defender bodies are fixed to the chassis with 'only a couple of bolts...' which in theory would enable you to undo these, and lift the complete body off the chassis.
I have seen pictures, most probably on Eastcoast rovers' site, but am not sure.
I am planning the same, should the chassis on the 110 I am planning to buy be too roten to fix.
-
With the Conway on raised suspension, your tent will not touch the ground anymore, will it?
-
Well, actually not. There must be a quite exact proportion of oxygen to make it go up in flames. There is way too much fuel vapours and too little air in the tank. Luckily...
That is... until the mixture reaches the right consistency...
-
Assisted in roadside fire as well, and only recently. Had only 'powder' to hand, but it saved the lives of the two children in the back seat which the father was trying to get out of the car. The vehicle (Jeep Grand Cherokee, on LPG, no safety valves) had caught fire and the guy had not noticed the fire. He thought the vehicle had 'just ceased working'...
The fire extinguisher saved his life, and the lives of his family. It did not put out the fire, but it gave me enough time to help the father free the second kid, warn them of the fire have them run to safety. The vehicle exploded about 2 minutes later, with us at a safe distance.
When I stopped to lend a hand, I parked my brand new 110 in front of their vehicle, at a good 50 yards distance. When I returned to check out my 110, the men of the fire brigade told me that the back was charred, paint had bubbled off, windows had been smashed and that the spare tire had burnt. Nothing was repaid by the insurance, as 'my vehicle was not part of the initial incident.' According to them I should not have stopped, or at least not that close. Wreckage from the explosion had flown at least 150 yards.
In the end the damage to my 110 was paid for by people from the public who contacted the newspaper in Belgium where the incident happened.
In Belgium it is a law to have an extinguisher in the front of the vehicle at all times. I guess that one can say that this does actually save lives
-
And when you connect the new switch, add some relays... The current to the headlights travels straight through the switch, which is why it tends to overheat. You do not want this to happen on a bendy A-road in the middle of the night...
-
I believe that the chassis itself does not need cutting. It is the wheelbase that changed, which means that the bodywork of a Series on top of a Defender might look a bit out of whack.
Otherwise it is a fairly straight swap... More in the terminology of: "When it ain't broke do not try and fix it." And we all know Land Rover never fixed it...
-
I have seen MoD crash test pictures a while ago, but cannot find them back. I believe they were done to show the squaddies that wearing a helmet in a softtop woudl actually benefit your health.
-
Tried Holland?
Google for Rangerover recycling or Janssen Used Laro Parts. I am sure they would post the parts over...
Ah, slow day at work...
and
-
-
Check for pictures of Exmoor Beast's 110... He has an external cage, roof included. That might be what you are looking for.
He also uses it for 'roofrack' mounting, and to protect the ruggedness of his roof line
-
Be sure you get the one with the 300Tdi then... Oh, and there should be a LR community in Costa Rica that might consider your parts. Could be worth checking there as well...
Good luck and we'll keep our axles crossed... (Or shouldn't I have said that???)
-
...with the freight cost on parts is more than the price of the parts.
That's why siearl said to see if you could get two or three of them. Build one out of the three, and sell off the parts. It is what I would do. Alternatively check on 'alternative ways' of getting parts into the country. Hoping that the parts you need are not too cumbersome or heavy, they could be sent from abroad as 'gifts' or taken as hand luggage.
Where there is a Defender, there is a way...
-
I would have to do all the work as the only dealer in Panama is 120 miles.
How many do their own work on the Defender/TD5's? or is it better to foget this project?
I'd say that working on the Defender TD5 would be the same as working on any Series/Defender vehcile, except for the engine. The set-back of the TD5 is that you would probably need the help of the dealer, provided that he has access to a Rovacom or TestBook. On this forum there is a chap who had his upgrade project from non-TD5 to TD5, have a search and check his story. It is well documented.
It also gives you the chance to 'upgrade' the land rover to YOUR specifications, i.e. raise the ECU...
The one missing the door has a 300 tdi disassembled in the back seat!You could always do a bid for that one, which would get you the choice of engines. 300TDi or TD5; If you have the chance, also check the gearbox and bellhousing, as it would be quite a bummer to have a 300TDi engine, but no gearbox to connect to...
As you have worked on your Series III before, I'd say go for it, especially seeing the price. You could even ask the people on here to give you a hand... They could fly out in winter with the parts you need in their hand luggage, and would be happy to spend some time away from the cold...
Pura Vida B)
-
Have you checked the injectors? With mud in the tank I believe that smaller particles could have found their way there...
And white smoke is water, black is unburned fuel...
-
Has anyone got an e-mail address for GKN that is known to work.
Mine started playing up last night so I sent an e-mail this morning to the address that appears at the botton of the spec sheet on the Devon 4x4 website. It bounced. The address was s.goodall@gkndriveline.co.uk.
Any suggestions from anyone on here as to what could be causing the overdrive to disengage in any gear at any speed.
Coming back from Devizes last night, I was cruising at 50-60mph and suddenly the o/d disengaged and the gearknob light came on, as it does if the speed drops below about 30mph.
Experimentation showed that it would throw itself out in any gear, at any speed. It would always engage properly but sometimes disengage almost immediately, other times it would go for several miles before throwing itself out.
Any thoughts?
Have more time today, and been searching...
This is what Western had to say a while back...
Tim, when you phone 0121 1606 it's the sales desk ask for Sue Rowland or 0121 313 1661 and ask for Steve, make sure you have the units serial number to hand, Speed Sensor part number is 119509/00/00, price is £70.50 including vat, changed my sensor as I thought it was faulty and not giving the control box the correct signal, in the end the solly was sticking a new one cured the fault and restored full operationHope it helps.
and as GMMUD is thinking...
Am I correct in thinking that one could simply ditch the speed sensor and the control box, wire the switch direct to the solenoid and then use ones own common sense about switching the OD in and out at the correct speed?This is indeed an option, although I was happy to have the fall back trough the sensor after driving with an engaged OD for 2 hours straight...
Your choice...
broken injector pipe
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I had one 'go' on my old TD. Temporarily replaced it with a high pressure flexihose for the drive home.
Funnily enough, the Defender would not fit in the garage of the hotel I was staying at. I was allowed to park under their marquee... Unfortunately I have lost the picture where the Defender is parked under the marquee of the 5 star Georges V hotel in Paris, with me in my cover-alls, hood next to the vehicle, head into the engine bay.
The cabbies had a great laugh, as did the porters who handed me towels after I was done. Somehow I was not allowed back into the hotel with my dirty shoes and clothes smelly like diesel, looking like a grease monkey. 