NegevLandRover
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Posts posted by NegevLandRover
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Up-date.
After checking the timing belt and finding the bolt that holds the pulley on th end of the camshaft broken, the camshaft roller broken/missing and broken and bent bits in the rocker assembly we decided to take the engine out and lift the cylinder head. Loooots of work to be done putting it all back together and will only know the full extent of damage on Sunday when I am next free to look at it all.
Did the timing belt about 30 K ago and a 40 K service about 3K ago so not for lack, nor because, of TLC
Adam
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Defender 110 300 TDI (1997)
While in 5th gear, 100 KPH on a flat road and empty of gear = not under load.
Suddenly a whooshing sound, power disapears and then a few seconds later the engine dies - as soon as the power went clutch in and coast to a stop.
Bonnet up, a load of engine oil on the right side of the engine and one of the bolts that centers the camshaft is missing. Could not see the other 7 bolts as it was dark and some are out of site but what I could see seemed fine. Engine turns over but rockers do not. Plenty of oil in the sump so not dry.
So - broken timing belt caused by camshaft comming loose ?? What should I be expecting and how much do I have to open to check for damage ? Engine out or not ? Head off or not ?
TIA
Adam
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While you've got it all in bits and pieces give Si a call and stick a disc on instead - you know you want to.
Seriously, Si's disc hand brake is one of the best things that happened to my LR.
If you still want the olde one the whip the shoes off and lay them isnside the drum to make sure that they do indeed fit (do they ??) and then try fitting again. I presume that you did completly undoe the expander that allows one to increase the friction as the shoes wear down.
Adam
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I have and use two
One is a bomb proof Magellan - rubber coated, waterproof, works on two AA batteries, will take maps (none available here for the model). This is my SAR/survival GPS with pre-marked exit or safe points that I may need to get to in an emergency. Together with the toppgraphic maps that I have and use this can always tell me where I am and is part of the basic kit I keep in my LR 24/7.
The other is a PDA with integral GPS and two sets of maps on it - one urban and the other wilderness. This is the one I use to see where my gas stations etc are and for route ploting. It works on the LR battery as well as it's own re-chargeable battery. I also use it to save cross referencing to maps when I am in a hurry as it plots one's position on the 1:50,000 topographic maps it has.
I have never had a reciever related problem with either - they work on the dash and the Defender windscreen does not seem to be an issue. In fact sometimes I have the Magellan straped to my thigh while I am driving and it works there too. Also on SAR missions people have worked with both units in the front passenger seat and again no problems.
Adam
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I appologize if this has been suggested before.
The plastic packing (the tray that holds all the bits in place) of ratchet sets breaks long before a decent set wears out and then one is left with a whole load of bits rattling around and wastes time looking for the bit that you need.
A M8 gave me a brilliant idea and it works a treat. Empty the set, take out the plastic tray turn it over, fill it with the polyurethane foam used for insulation and sealing, wait for the foam to dry (24 hours if you want good results)and then cut away the excess, turn the tray over and put it back in your tin box and you now have a bomb proof tray that will keep the bits orderly and in place for years to come.
This is best done before the tray begins to break but I did it when the tray was well and truly broken and it still worked.
Adam
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The valve at where the hose connects to the servo was clean so the oil had not reached that far and there is no sign of any oil getting into the servo (booster).
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Up date:
Took the hose from vacum pump to brake servo off and: 1. there were cracks at both ends
2. it had some engine oil in it - say 10 cc of oil.
So after cleaning the pipe out with compressed air and thoroughly examining it's entire length I shortened it by 2 cms at each end and put it back together.
So far so good - keeping my fingers crossed that the problem does not come back.
Is it normal for there to be some engine oil in the hose ??
Adam
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The vacum pump was never off.
As i understand these pumps either work or don't work and there is no intermediate ?
Hose looks OK.
When going forward slowly, down steep steps with engine ticking over the brakes are fine.
Adam
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Short history:
LR Defender 300 TDI
Brand new brake servo intsalled about 2 months ago
Vacum tests show vacum working
BUT
After a short drive in reverse the servo does not work either because the vacum pump isn't working or because the servo isn't working. Stick it in first, drive a couple of hundred yards and everything is OK again. Have not checked the vacum pressures after a reverse because did not realize up until a few minutes ago that this problem, that comes and goes, was related to the reverse motion.
Is it possible that in reverse the cam shaft lug that drives the vacum pump moves so that it ceases moving the pump ??? And then when you drive forward again it goes back into place and everything sorts itself out again.
Any ideas and or info much appreciated.
TIA
Adam
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sorry to go back to it but this oil stat you talk of are you getting it mixed up with a oil relief valve as in if the filter gets blocked that passage way opens to allow the oil to get passed so that there is no oil starvation????
dave
I think we are talking about the same part - it sits in the oil filter housing. It deffinetly acts like a coolant thermostat - it expands out and contracts in with the heat changes and has a spring and two big washers on it. Are we taliking about the same thing.
The issue is now resolved - we found a steel washer in the brand new oil radiator that must have been blocking the flow. I have never seen a washer of this size and type in the engine and certainly not any where near the oil plumbing so it probably got there before the part was delivered as we took it out of it's original packing when we installed.
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probably a faulty oil pressure sender.
No - as i said, we changed the oil pressure sender and the brand new one acted exactly the same.
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Open or closed it should not change the oil pressure.
Is the cooler and stat something that has been added?
They should be plumbed so that oil (under pressure) comes from the pump into the stat, out to the cooler, back to the stat, and then into the oil galleries still under pressure.
If it has been wrongly plumbed it may be taking oil (under pressure) from the pump and passing it through the stat and cooler and back to the sump. This would be why you loose pressure when the stat opens.
Steve
Nothing added - the 300 TDI comes with the oil rad as standard. The plumbing was not touched save for the swapping out the oil rad along with the coolant rad and there were no mistakes made in the process.
Adam
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Yeah - I know what it is there for but I don't know the system well enough to know whether the system is "normally open" or "normally closed". I am trying to figure out why if it was stuck in "open" it caused the problem ??
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Soory guys - should have written BAR and not PSI - so pressures are correct.
Can some one explain to me what happens when the oil thermostat opens/closes and if this migh have been the problem. Taking it out solved the problem - or circumstance did.
Adam
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That's less sensitive - if it comes on at a higher pressure it is being more sensitive to any drop from normal pressure, rather than only coming on when the pressure drops to almost nothing.
Silly me - I got it the wrong way round - LR standard comes on at 5 or less mine comes on at 15 or less.
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LR Defender 300 TDI.
Did a 40'000 KM service - all oils and filters etc. Nothing out of the ordinary happened. Also put in a brand new Ali radiator, second hand intercooler, brake servo and pump and rear brake pads - all went well here too.
Took the LR out for a whizz to see all was OK - no problems at all. Then started a longer drive - 20 kms down the road - engine temp fine, lotsa power (old intercooler was in a mess) and suddenly oil pressure light starts to glow dimly. Clutch in, free wheel down the highway and light becomes brighter, next exit just down the road so gently does it and light dims abit but stays there.
Pressure unit is a after market one that is more sensative than orignal and comes on at 5 instead of 15 PSI so when the engine is hot if you are in neutral the light will come on - this way even during a long days work with engine on the whole time you get indications through out the day that the unit is working and if the pipes burst you get an earlier warning than you would with the original so the fact that the light came on was a heads up but still not a sign that all was lost.
Crawl under LR and checked the unit was properly conected, no oil leaks, oil level correct, change the oil pressure unit. Get back in LR and start her up - all looks fine - open ignition light comes on, start up and in tick over light is on (as I said above this is normal with the unit I have), turn revs up and the light goes out. Back onto highway and a few kms down the road repaly of the whole scenario but much sooner than the first time (engine was warmer to begin with).
Open the oil rad pipes and there seems to be very little oil in the rad but pipes are clear as is rad. Take out oil thermostat and it is jammed in the extended position (open - right ??) Put everything but the oil thermostst back in and re-start - everything is back to normal. Drive 180 kms and everything is fine.
So what the hell was wrong ???
I presume that the oil thermostat works like the coolant one and when open allows the oil to course through the oil rad ?? Or is it one of these "normally open" systems - when the thermostat opens it actually closes one of the paths and sends the oil around the rad ??
OPTIONS
Oil thermostat was the problem ?
Air blockage in the oil rad/pipes ? (never heard of this before)
GREMLINS ??
Opinions please.
TIA
Adam
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This is possible - if this is the scenario where is the damage ? Steering box splines or Pitman grooves or both ???
Adam
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When I say works loose - it is not the nut that works loose on the bolt - that still has it's lock in place. When I open the lock an re-tighten the arm just moves up a little on the teeth and I get another month's peace and the all over again. I haven't managed to figure out if the problem is teeth grooves or both ?
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My Pittman link between the steering box and the steering rods (I hope you guys understand what I am talking about) is loose. Tried tightening it several times and each time it works it's way loose again. It is deffinetly not the nut working loose. The garage that looks after it reckons that it is time to change the steering box because the teeth that the Pittman sits on are worn.
Has anyone tried using any of these STRONG glues like Liquid Metal ? Thought about welding but that would probably bugger the seals.
I am trying to avoid changing the steering box as there is no way of fixing it here.
TIA
Adam
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IMHO do not waterproof the battery compartment because water tight + battery gas build up = BOOOOOM !!!! The battey compartment MUST breath.
Adam
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had the same problem with my first 110. the bulkhead behind the seats was removed by the previous owner which i believe reduced the torsional rigidity(ooh listen to me with me fancy words
) which led to lots of flex. mine looked exactly like that and all i did was sell the vehicle 
..... dunno wether your bulkhead was removedMy defender has 784,000 kms and alot of that well oaded and on rough roads and I too have cracks in the rear panels but without the bulging. Just beneath the fog light and reverse lights are two pieces of metal that join the rear X-member to the panels - on my Defender the cracks appeard around these leading to them becomming pointless/useless so I added some more rivets and bolts near to them which seems to have stabalized things alittle.
A chassis will over time develop some flex and the difference in flexability between body and chassis is I believe the cause of the body cracking which because it is box shaped is less flexible than the ladder chassis.
Check that all the body to chassis support and joins are intact.
The buckling, as noted by others, seems to indicate compression either from a heavy roof load (and you say there is none) or possibly a loose or non existent post/roof joint leaving the roof supported by the rear panels ? I found that the beams joined to the posts behind the doors were not properly tightened and of the 2 bolts on each side there was only 1 (must have been a friday afternoon or monday morning build and the assembly from new was with only half of the number of bolts needed !!!!)
You say that your suspension was shot - possibly the repeated, over time, supression of the springs as far as the bump stop could cause this buckling as it would be similar to repeatedly striking down on that joint with a hammer the weight of everything above the joint !!
Keep us posted on your findings
Adam
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i am getting rid of my heater unit
quite new - runs well (for dfender standards anyhow)
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40566
if you want it --> pm
cheers
ulf
That would be fantastic - but judging by the post below your post your unit probably would not fit as I have a LHD and yours is I believe RHD ?
Thanks anyway
Adam
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The seals come with the reservoir bit, about 20 quid from most online vendors. It's part # SJJ100351 and it looks like this:
As for the heater blower motor you need to tell which of the 2 Defenders you need it for (200 or 300 series) and if it's a RHD or LHD (probably) as they are different (4 versions in all).
Thank you very much.
The Defender is a 1997 300 TDI LHD - the blower sits in the right hand side wing.
Adam
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Been away for a while - well actually just in-active and/or lurking
I did post a while back, and got no answer, regarding the fan motor for the in-cab heating and de-mister. This is the motor that sits in the engine compartment and turns the fan that blows the air over the element and into the ducts. Mine is burnt and I cannot find a replacement as there are few breakers here and even less Defenders to break (they last for ever). If anyone can help me locate a new or used motor I will gladly send the cost and beer tokens for service.
The other problem I have is that the rubber seals on the base of the brake fluid resevoir are leaking - sometimes alot and sometimes not at all but they are leaking and usually when the LR is left standing rather than during use. Does any one know where I can lay my hands on some new seals as here they sell only the complete booster + resevoir as one part and for crazy money.
Any help much appreciated.
TIA
Adam
) which led to lots of flex. mine looked exactly like that and all i did was sell the vehicle 
..... dunno wether your bulkhead was removed
help with locating and repairing crack
in International Forum
Posted
Hi there - been away, read that as busy, for a while.
While running an emergency wilderness SAR mission to save a snake bite victim I seem to have pushed the olde girl just a little to far (fast) and now have a squeak/creak noise from where the door post joins the floor/chasis and think that I have cracked or broken the point where the front door posts join the floor/body. Both front doors sag back a little and by picking up the open door I can move the door posts ever so little.
Any ideas on how best to fix this would be much appreciated.
Adam