Shox Dr
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Posts posted by Shox Dr
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How can a good air flow be achieved? I have not got a cabinet yet. And wanted to build my own, I,ve seen some links to sites with cabinets. Just can,t get my head around the air flow issue. I had thought the grit would naturally fall down. Could a false bottom say a mess type area let the grit fall onto the proper botton and not blow the blasted grit about ? It,s time for experimenting.
Mark
Dyson Vacs are great for the job, easy to clean/empty hopper, and there are loads down your local tip.
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Rebuilt a Type A R380 box. Ran fine for the 750miles now it is difficult to get 2nd,4th without grinding the Synchro, 3rd is wishy washy, reverse is Ok to Select but hard to get out of.
At first I thought it may be the Synchromesh Spool for 2/4, but Now I pretty sure its the Quadrant selector Grub screw has worked lose.
So has anyone ever tried to tighten this grub screw with the box fitted and the transmission tunnel cover in place ( I've sealed the floor up) so don't want to break it open, I rather pull the box out.
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If you have ever followed a Land Rover you'll know yourself the Mudflaps end up almost Horizontal. At least with a hinge, they can do so without placing a strain on the Flap, which causes the cracks. Time will tell I suppose.
As for riding up when reversing, unless its in mud/rutt's I don't think this will happen, as it is I'm going to modify the pin, so it can be removed, the Mudflaps can then be taken off when Offroading
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It's the capillary action of water ingress. I've found there is little point in "chasing" it back as you'll end up at the other end.
Just make sure you clean the old wire to remove the oxide, as you'll end up with a poor connection
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a neat solution, that's almost undectable.
It's not the best write up I've done by far, but there's not a lot to say or show. When I get the new Mudflaps I'll do another one to show what using door hinges would look like
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As you can see the fitted mudflap can now swivel backwards, but as the hinge only opens one way the Mudflap cannot bend forward.
So not a lot to it really. I don't expect everyone has access to stainless steel sheet or hinges, so instead of removing the stock brackets, you could bolt or use pop rivets to fix a pair of 2 or3" butt hinges to the top of the bracket and then fix the hinge to the crossmember. Not as nice but will serve the same purpose
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I then welded a 1" Stainless steel Piano Hinge to the top
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These were then fitted to the Mudflaps using M6 bolts with a Large repair washer on the back
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Western asked if I would take a few pictures when I did the mod, I mentioned earlier.
I was waiting until I had the new mudflaps but since I had nothing better to do, I thought I get on with it and use the old ones to show how I a was going to carry out the mod.
First off I used one of the old brackets as a template to fab up some new stainless steel versions.
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sounds good, if you have any pictures of this mod, would you like to write up a short article for the Tech Archive.
Will do
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I'm in the process of modifing a rear set. I've removed the steel brackets, and replaced them with Stainless, just waiting on some 1" Stainless piano Hinge, and some chain to stop them from riding up the wheels, when reversing. That way they can swing in the wind.
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Goodyear MTs all the way.
Had a set on a Nissan Navara 2 yrs ago did 38k and still had 2/3 of their 19mm of tread.
Have a set on the 90 now. top rubber
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sounds like he's more p1ssed with not getting the parts as they "appear" in the picture, and I agree it is misleading.
As for OEM
OEM ; Original Equipment Manufacturer
That means it has been supplied to the manufacturer at the point of assembly, they might not come in a box, they might not have the same look, but they are to the same spec' as a part you would purchase if it came in Retail Branded Packing.
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Arhhhhhh So there's a little man in there with an egg timer then
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How do you adjust the time, without digging for the relay, I've read the instructions on the you picture you posted but it doesn't make much sense
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The closest that thing has ever, or in fact ever will get to Mud is the Grass Verge.
Chelsea Tractor if ever I've seen one
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Does anyone know what the thread size is for the large plastic bung on the thermostat housing is, on a 300tdi
I want to fit a temp sender in there for the electric fan.
Or know of the part number for a sender that will fit in there.
Heres a pic
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I've stopped using stud extractors, well the kind that are tapered anyway. I find they split the stud more than often.
I now use a carefully chosen Torx Bit, drill the hole hammer the bit in and hopefully it winds out.
That or if I can get in there, weld a nut on, which I know might not be the easiest of things to do in this case
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It's about £8 for that "bit" of foam. I used some 2" foam you can get from Boyes etc Cost about 50p
Soaked it in Waxlyo let it dry and used that. Makes a really good water tight seal and stops the foam from soaking up any further water
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I have just done the same, I had OME 763 on the back of a truck cab I purchased, it was solid, I have just had some D44 / OME from Devon 4x4, the ride is softer but still firm, they will not tell me the strengh of them as they say they will be copied and they have them made by OME just for them.
I have yet to test what the articulation will be like, I hope not to too stiff.
That shows how much they know about springs.
The copier only needs to buy a set and measure them, it's not hard. Someone like Coil Spring Ltd would make you a set for 30-50 each. Hell if you wanted 100+ per weight/lenght you could get them for around £10 powder coated. I've had springs made for a little as £3 each but then I was having a few made.
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Does anyone know of a quick release type steering wheel, that doesn't alter the distance. Thought it might be another anti-theft deterrent
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interesting Memo. I work on new Mercs, Ivecos, VW etc etc and they are blathered in Waxoly, eps the VWs they are covered bumper to bumper
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I found this site sometime ago http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/
Also the REME have a Manual called the Vehicle Recovery Manual. I haven't read it but by all account it is the best source of information
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If you want to paint your chassis, then don't bother with Hammer****e or similar.
Go to a good paint supplier (not B&Q) and get some proper industrial paint.
Preferably designed fo roffshore use...
Micaceous Iron Oxide is the product you are looking for. Used to be very expensive (£75 5ltrs) I bought some earlier this year for £30/5ltrs
It has a first class history (50+yrs) of withstanding the worst weather condidtions anywhere in the world, from Heat to cold. Sea Salt to road salt.
I first found out about it 30years ago, the local council shotblasted a bridge near me and painted it with MIO. They have never needed to paint in since
R380 Bearing failure
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Rebuilt my gearbox about 1000miles ago, ran fine with no noises at all, in fact it was sweet as. Everything was built to well within spec. It had been driven hard in that period as well.
On a trip 260 mile trip, before crimbo I heard what I thought was the synchromesh in 4th. You couldn't put you hand on the box once we'd got to the inlaws.
Anyway I drop the box yesterday and Opened it up and to my horror the taper bearing connecting the input shaft to the output shaft has collapsed.
I wasn't hanging about on the trip averaging 70-74mph for 4 1/2 hours, could the failure be down to over heating. The inside of the case is black with burnt oil, but the shafts show no show of over heating but then I have done about 100 miles since coming home.
Not bl00dy happy I tell thee.