Shox Dr

Does it let the mud out as well

Just been outside and mine are..... Plastic, and look as good as the day they were fitted (2yrs ago)

You've hit the nail squarely on the head there fella. It's aright having all these devices but if they take an age to activate/fit then deactivate/remove you will soon become bored and inclined not to use them. Without giving the game away, I learnt this, and now all but 2 of my measures are self-arming/locking etc etc, and they have to be disarmed in order, otherwise she won't start or move. It took me a while to get used to it but now it's second nature

You get a nice warm feeling when you finally figure something out.

Mine was pulling to the NS, had a ride down to the local Kiwk fit, and they stuck it on the brake roller tester thingy. Found it was the OS pistons sticking. And the best bit didnt cost me a thing to have it tested. I did the work

Can't see the point unless you are going to put mesh over all the glass

Called in there one day. Their attitude was enough to stop me buying anything from them EVER

I'd say it doesn't mater what type of cross member you have so long as it fits. As for the correct way, the plates face backwards. As for he spring mount holes, Mmmmmmm me thinks they might have... unless they have a captive nut.

I did this to my new 90 chassis, only leaving the loom holes, these I plated over fixing with rivets, so I could inspect the inside, if I wished. Time will tell

I was replying to renault4's post, and the originals posters question, in that the rubbers that protect the bearing surfaces on a Track Rod End are not part of the MOT. Only that the Track Rod End doesn't have any play Besides LRs don't have CV boots

Only the gaiters on CV Boots, and the outside ones at that are part of the MOT.

Go to the cupboard and get yourself a biscuit

Blanchards in Market Weighton East Yorks have feilds full of them

yup and designed so they rust as fast as possible

Are you sure it's not the prop. can you borrow one to test it out

As other have said, fit the tub and doors first before you tighten anything down. You may need to use ratchet straps to get it to go where you want it to.

Good to hear. I see you're from Lymington, tis been a longtime since I've lived there. (only for a little while) was ace watching the Hercules flying from there

As far as I can remeber there are only 2 sizes of Pistons fitted to all Landrovers, Disco's etc. Find out what size you have and that's all the info you need.

Interestingly, I was at Halfords HQ, one day. In the conference room was a large pin/scrap board. One of the things that caught my attention was a piece of paper that had been cut from some journal. It read Customer Service; Do the job right the first time 75% will return Do the job poorly and 80% will return Do the job poorly and then resolve the matter and 92% will return I cant remember the figures exactly but you get the gist.

Also it needs to be noted that, fitting longer turrets does not directly affect your axle travel. Let me try and explain. A damper has 3 important measurements Free lengh; The total lenght of the damper between fixture pionts uncompressed Compressed Lenght; The total lenght of the damper between fixture pionts when fully compressed Travel ;The difference between the Free Length and Compreesed Length is the available damper travel. Now forget about the constrains of the panard bar, streering, etc for a mintue. If you remove the damaper and spring the axle will come to rest on the bump stop. If you then take a measurement from the fixer piont on the axle to the underneath of the turret it will tell you the maximium compressed lenght of damper that can be fitted. And remember you cant increase upwards travel without mod'ing the chassis, axle. the only way is down Hope you got that because it doesn't get any easier. So you want 4" more downward axle movement. The first thing you need to do is make sure your axle can move that far, it's no piont fitting 6" longer travel dampers if your axle will only allows 4". Now say a stock damper has a free length of 20" compressed length of 12" giving 8" of travel. The measurement you got from axle the turret bottomed out is 24" maens you can fit a damper with a compressed length of no more than 23" (don't forget the bumper can compress a bit). You have 3" the play without even fitting 2"+ turrets. A bit of googling will tell you what the next length of damper you can fit. A could go it to more detail, but I'm hurriedly typing this before a I take a flight to Poland. If anyone is interested in a better feature please let me know. PS no time to spell/gramma check; They dont call me dyslexic Dave for now't

No, your springs their lenght and their strength (ins/lbs) and the weight placed upon them dictate that height

Regardless of the material you use for bolting it together you WILL get Galvanic Corrosion. Zinc and Aluminium are very close to each other on the Galvanic Index so are better "partners" than SSteel/Aluminium, as it is father apart on the inex having a greater electrical difference, thus ironically speeding up the corrosion of the lesser material; Aluminium in this case, the best thing you can use is Anti-Galvanic Paste, between the parts, this will slow down the process. I cant remember what it's called in the UK but a quick google brought these two brand up in the states "TefGel" and "Lanocote". Any Anti-Galvanic Paste will do, it's used in the boat building industry, a ship chandlers will have it

Sounds like play in the 3th diff (sun gears) I had quite a bit of play in mine before I rebuilt it, replaced the sims the the sun gears, hey presto none now

Fuel Gauge, maybe Are you keeping the cab heater, in which case you'll need the fan wired

I built a few for bikes, and replaced a great deal of the 90s last year. I would take the old loom and strip out the bits you dont want then copy what you have left.