dan9090
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Posts posted by dan9090
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Thanks both. Do I need to raise both rear wheels off ground to avoid risk of transmission backlash or just the one im working on?
Also, do all of Les' pics load on the linked page - only a couple do when I press it.
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Hi, for a few weeks now Ive noticed that my nearside rear wheel has been splattered with what looks like oil radiating from the centre of the hub (I think).
Doesnt seem to be causing any problems (although havent driven off road since I noticed this) but thought Id take a photo today and let one of you clever guys tell me what has probably gone wrong and what I need to fix....
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When this happened to me I had to do more than "tap" it with a hammer plus lots of jumping up and down on bonnet.
When it happened a second time I realised it was time to rip it off and replace with some nice rubber bonnet fasteners.
Good luck
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agree with ^^^^^ although personally not something i would worry about looking at. i dont think it means anything else is going to go bad - just rock it in gear to get hbrake off when it sticks - hey, its a Land Rover!
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Good news, a day of more fiddling and I think I am sorted...
> tbox lever now staying in High and not jumping into Neutral (fingers crossed)
> diff lock light working
> and diff lock working for the first time since I owned the truck (it was the common problem of not enough leverage in the linkage sorted by increasing the depth of the pivot bolt on side of tbox).
However, just to clarify one thing... the failsafe test to see if your diff lock is working. Ive read all the threads on this and have found conflicting views between whether when you have one wheel off ground you have main box in Neutral or in Gear. My suggestion is that the test can work either way but there will be a lot more resistance on the wheel if in Gear (which I first mistook as being the diff lock). Interested to hear views on this.
I prefer the test in Neutral as its very clear when diff lock is or isn't on.
Today also tought me that lifting the middle seat and floor panels could sometimes be a far easier way to access such things as handbrake etc. My back doesnt like too much crawling underneath.
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Cut a long story short, i bought my 90 with home made winch bumper from the prev owner. Bought me a nice new "4X4 R US" one and went to fit this afternoon only to find that the prev owner has welded part of his contraption onto the chassis (crossmember between front dumb irons).
I have never welded nor have any great desire to learn. How do I get this damn thing off?? I bent it back and forth with a farm jack and it wont snap off. What next? Hacksaw? Metal drill bit?
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I'm fitting a simple cut off switch on the positive lead between battery and winch. I see most people go for the passenger footwell. Would there be any issue running the cable behind the dash and mounting the switch lets say next to the cigar lighter?
Im no auto electrician so I'm probably missing something obvious thats wrong with this plan.
Any comments appreciated.
Dan
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Today I've been fiddling with my transfer box lever/linkages (for the first time). Main reason was because last week the tbox lever starting popping out of high into neutral. Having read a few threads I went about checking the linkages and they do look ok. Cleaned off a lot of carp however and this does seem to have helped (fingers crossed!!)
If not, i guess its bungeed cord time.Whilst I had the floor and transmission tunnel off I thought I'd play with my diff lock. Since having the truck (18mnths) the light has never come on and Ive never been quite sure whether diff lock worked or not. I knew the bulb worked though. I got the switch out and gave it a good clean etc.
Into diff lock, light on - great!! Out of diff lock and the light refuses to go out
several miles, lots of playing with the lever and going over bumps etc and still the light wont go off.Starting getting worried that the diff lock may still be on so did the "jack up one front wheel test" and the wheel kept rotating both with the lever in diff lock on and diff lock off position. So im happy im not stuck with diff lock on but am left with these two qns:
>> why is the light not going out? (does it depend on how far you screw the switch in??)
>> does my diff lock work at all?? the linkage/mechanism looks give positive. I wasnt too confident of my jack so didnt play with the wheels lots - would it sometimes need quite a few revolutions before locking?
Thanks
Dan
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id go for rock slider with tree sliders as mentioned above, just as good as steps and what im going to go for (no step currently fitted). they wont come lower than chassis and wont stick out further than wheel arches. just my opinion.
good luck
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I'm hoping to be there (if got enough for the ticket after getting truck through the MOT this week!!)
never been before so not sure what to expect.... are many goods being sold there or is it just displays?... in the market for a new winch bumper, rock/treesliders and some tree strops/kenetic rope and shackles.
dan
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Hi, I'm running a 1988 90 truck cab. Inside is shabby particularly the door cards and soundproofing around the gear gaiter and down the side of the box. Mats are non existent.
I'm thinking of chequer plate for the floor plates as could do with the extra grip when in muddy boots etc.
Before I replace, has anyone ever seen alternatives to plastic door cards or piece around the gearbox? Something metal would be ideal and far easier to get clean!!
Anybody seen anything that might help?
Dan
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i agree with Mo, if there is water coming out of the little hole then the internal seal has gone and its new water pump time. i did mine a couple of months back, wasnt a Td5 but was a real easy job once youd taken the bits off to get to the pump. wasnt expensive either but as i say, that wasnt a Td5. good luck. p.s: dont forget gasket.
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thanks for the replies. im glad i asked the question since being a novice I just assumed for some reason that Draper Expert was a good choice.
on the other hand, without all the high recommendations you've given it, I probably would have steered clear of Halfords 'own-brand'.
now i'm just deciding whether to go for the big carry case or the nice sets in moulded trays that fit into the tool chests
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thanks for all the replies guys, i want to make the right choice. (especially when the wife is telling me everyday what she could do with that money...
)im off to look at Halfords professional sets it would seem! they certainly seem popular with you folks
anyone any experience of Halfords tool chests?... they do the ball bearing roller ones which are same (quite high) price as everyone else but then do some cheaper ones.
dan
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I got my first truck last year, 1988 truck cab 90, and do most non-major jobs myself. Been begging and borrowing tools so far but about to take the plunge with a new stocked up tool chest
I already have an imperial socket set and spanner so mainly looking metric. I have my eye on this ....http://www.toolsnstuff.co.uk/product_info....380dedfcc03bfbc
What do you think? Will it have most things I need to maintain my 90? What are views re the quality of this brand?
Any thoughts appreciated. Dan
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Im willing to have a go but seem to be working on it more than driving it.
Welcome to Land Rover ownership!!!
I got my first last summer and after a few weeks had the same thought as you but then just stopped worrying about it when it went wrong and (kind of) started enjoying the challenge of keeping it running myself!!Good luck with the box.
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but i got well stuck in very deep mud a week before and it started soon after that as did the transfer box problems..
i suffered from the same - when i did get it out and recon'd i was told it was full of muck. we're you using a wading plug on the bell housing? i wasn't which apparently contributed to the ingress of muck. i needed new solenoid and new clutch drive assembly as it wouldn't engage with the flywheel.
yes... tricky things to get at
, some of the nuts i found best to approach from below so you may want to consider that.I'm a 2.5TD but guessing pretty similar.... the earth is marked as #7 in the pic below. this pic is with the manifold removed however so yes it is pretty much behind that....
good luck.
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Hi Geoff,
Sorry, haven't been to either but have checked out your links. I do like the look of the Langdale X-treme site!!
Has everyone seen the photos of the Porsche Cayenne?... very funny
http://www.langdalequest.co.uk/gallery.html
....so i'd probably go for that. although looks like you could be treated with some nice views at the NY site.
good luck and have fun!! im also from mids so let me know if its worth the drive up there!!
dan
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hi and welcome. i like your truck from what i can see. comparing to what i paid for my F reg 90 and comparing the kit on each I'd say you did well for that money.
hope you enjoy the forum.
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hey zulu, im a 2.5TD. hoping to be a 200tdi one day
we must be pretty close since im about 5 miles south of packington in a hamlet after Knowle/Dorridge.i think avon dassett is used by a variety of clubs etc but if you just want to turn up and play use...
next event is 20 Jan and I may well be there. its a nice site and there are all levels of terrain. check out the pics on the webpage.
where else do you go locally?
p.s: i didnt get round to packington the other day so still on my to-do list
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saw these ceramic heaters recently. have no experience of them but they not expensive....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Electric-Car-Ceramic...1QQcmdZViewItem
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same issue with my 1988 90 pick up. Given its not my daily drive and not the only place water finds its way into the cab I used the "folded up piece of card between the windows" method of stopping the rattle.
cheap and easy but I guess it just depends on how much you use your truck.
can't say i open them much so maybe sealing them up can go on the to-do list
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have got.....
wing tops - to add some strength for standing and help straighten them out given the state I inherited them in (!)
bonnet - cover holes left by bonnet wheel mouting kit
rear corners - again to straighten up what i inherited (but also a bit of bling i admit)
would like....
floor plates (i dont use mats) so some chequer would give a bit more grip - i tend to slide around on the OE floor plates
would consider....
door cards as would be a lot easier to keep clean!!! i find mud is constantly ingrained in the black plastic door cards. anyone know where to get these from?
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Geoff - thanks - might check it out when I have more time and will report back if a decent section is still open.
Mike - funny you should mention Little Packington - its on the list to do tomorrow as only a couple of miles from me!! little concerned after seeing this defender try it.... http://community.webshots.com/user/scorpiopdg
did tapster valley and preston fields the other day... if you like fords, check out http://vamp.idlers.org/~jaffa/warwickshire.htm
Do you have any more info on these lanes around Rugby please? The inlaws live up that way so i'm often up there.
cheers
dan
If not, i guess its bungeed cord time.
several miles, lots of playing with the lever and going over bumps etc and still the light wont go off.
I already have an imperial socket set and spanner so mainly looking metric. I have my eye on this ....
, some of the nuts i found best to approach from below so you may want to consider that.
Bolts for beginners
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I'm still pretty new to getting my hands dirty repairing or modding my truck and everytime I do (and need to replace a bolt/nut) I do get confused over what I need. I dont know the difference between UNC / UNF etc and I dont fully understand the grading system used on the bolt heads, imperial/metric etc. Can this all be summarised by someone more knowledge than me?
Fed up of paying individual prices everytime I need a bolt I was hoping to buy a bulk pack of rated/graded bolts for future use but will wait to see what responses come to this thread first!