Speedy_Gonzales
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Posts posted by Speedy_Gonzales
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I suppose the op's username should have put my mind at rest !
[no offence meant Jamie!]
Haha - none taken!
It used to do 80 even 85-90 at a push (I normally stick to around 65-70 as a rule!), but it struggles to get over 70 these days, and Ive only done 10k in it since I bought it last year
I have noticed a lot of deteriation in top end during that time though..
Been out for a good run down to North Wales in it today, would reach 70 but not go over, and at 70 it sounds like it used to at 80!
Biggest issue is that the power spurts at between 60 & 65 and it starts spluttering.
Im gonna get it plugged in, think I will ahve a chat with Porny and try and get a mapping, failing that gonna get it into dieselcraft near me for a check.
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You need a little packing to get the bracket to fit the inside of the defender.
The Block Lock is designed as a removable fixture for a van door, but adapts ok to bolt into the vehicle frame on a defender. You may be able to fabricate a neater L section, mine is just as supplied plus a wedge of packing.
Neat job
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hi
how long since the fuel and air filters were replaced? is it just top speed or sluggish all the time
matt
Hi Matt, around 6k ago I perfromed a full service...
The problem I had seemed to be a back pressure issue on the turbo, hence the actuator greasing, seemed to sort it for a while. Maybe need another service perhaps?
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Still having problems with a sluggish TD5, originally thought I had resolved this by copper greasing the rod connecting the turbo to the actuator which seemed to improve things, but its still struggling around the 70 mark.
It seems to splutter a bit in the revs build up around the 65mph mark, but if I keep my foot down it will hit 70, problem is its a TD5 and it used to do 80mph no worries...!!?
Any pointers?
Ta
Jamie
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only cutaway for 90's the 110/130 are full mudflaps.
Thanks Western, as concise as ever
I found these, they look okay: http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/dd/ee/2398/27969333
and these: http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/dd/ee/2397/27969331
I guess they are not genuine land-rover ones, but Im not bothered as long as they do the job
Sorry, hope links are okay???
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As per the title, anyone bought any recently? Who are the cheapest?
I know the front ones are standard across all models, the rears are 11/130 specific.. Is there a special [cutaway] mudflap on the exhaust side or is this just on the 90?
Thanks in advance
Jamie
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My 2000 TD5 is currently on 165k, runs sweet, having a few issues at present with a sticky turbo actuator, but apart from that shes a beauty!
As mentioned, service history is very important, mines an ex Environment Agency truck so no expense spared over the years, phoned them up and they sent me a copy of all the work that was ever done to her since birth...!!!
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are the UYs hot after a run? could be worn and binding tight hence the squeak.
X-Brake - superb bit of kit
My front UJ is at a bit of an odd angle because of the 2" lift, and I do get a bit of prop slap because of this... but Ive done nearly 10,000 miles with it like that. Could probably do with a double cardon joint, but as you probably know theyre expensive!
Will check the heat of the UJ next time I take it for a run, I recently regreased all the nipples so thought it was more likely to be the drum...
Thanks for your input
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You haven't looked in our Tech Archive then, as I did this thread while fitting mine
Sorry Western, was interested in trying to understand what the squeak was all about as much as querying the fiting of the x-brake!
Good effort all round nevertheless
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Thanks All,
Colin, your photo diagrams are brilliant! Great work.
Thanks again
Jamie
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As per the topic title, I have a canary under my TD5 110!
I originally thought it was the props, but Ive greased the nipples (ooohhh!!!!) and its still there... Handbrake is very high at the moment too, am I need of some new shoes in the handbrake drum?
Just out of intrest, how easy is it to fit the x-brake? I have a two inch lift on it, will this create any additional problems to fitting?
Thanks for looking
Jamie
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Thanks for your help all, will have a good nosey underneath today
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i had a similar problem like this a month or two ago on my 90, it turned out i had been offroading, and it had pushed my exhaust across and it was just vibrating against my chassis.
dont go pulling out your gearbox before you check that!
anothing thing.. might you have got dirt in the breather hole? is it an auto?
Hey Mortus, no its a manual, but I will check the exhaust thanks!
I refitted the breathers recently (they all come up my snorkel) so its houldnt be that..
I need to get underneath while driving to identify where the noise is coming from, just dont fancy being strapped to the underside of a land rover while driving down the road!
I still think it is something to do with the brake drum on the transfer box though...hmmmm
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I have a rattle around that area, caused by the bar connected to the drop arm (don't know the term for it) rattling against the metal plate/guard bolted to the rear of the front diff. It sounded like it was coming from the gearbox area and was only evident under changing gear and large bumps. As you've just been offroading I'd look there, mine occured after the bar was slightly bent.
Been out in it again today, and it is definitely drivetrain related (i.e. and increase in speed gives an increase in the noise made), it is also most definitely coming form the transfer box brake drum area and is still intermittent...
I have checked the props and UJ's etc, all seem sound.. its a kind of 'Brrrrrrr' noise..
Has anyone else had a similar problem? Sounds a little like dirt or gravel in the drum housing catching on something??!!!
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Did some trials in the 110 at Chirk on the weekend (its amazing the places you can get a boat like that!), but coming home I had this intermittent rattle from underneath when accelerating..
It seemed to be coming from the transfer box/props area...
Was okay on the motorway at a steady 65-70, only occured when accelerating in all gears.
Is it possible that a stone or something can get inside the handbrake cylinder and start rattling around?
Any advice appreciated
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Anyone got some? I went out last night for a spot of green laning in the evening and my mate in his RRC hit a stump and bent his steering rod both wheels were toing out wards, we managed to hook a shackle around the steering arm and bend it back enought to get home at 20mph. So im going to invest in some HD steering arms now. Are they any good or something else like Dan bars?
http://www.britpart.com/Accessory.asp?Page...cessoryRef=1060
Dave.
I had something similar happen to me in my Defender, problem was if we didnt sort it out the only way out was via an airlift!
We managed to use my front winch and another guys rear winch to straighten it out.
I went straight out and bought a pair of HD's, not sure if they are Bearmach or Sumo or what, but they are a lot better than the originals (hollow steering arms on a land rover who would have thought of it!), not had any problems since...
I would also get some protection for the front arm too...
Have fun
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Phoned a few of the turbo guys today and was quoted from £45 to £70 for a recon actuator, though after speaking to one guy might have an answer.
He commented that treating the sticking actuator rod with WD40 would not really help due to the high heat generated by the turbo (why didnt I think of that!) which would effectively evaporate the WD quickly. He suggested trying a high temperature grease or oil instead...
I'm going to strip it off the turbo, give it a clean and grease the part where the actuator rod goes into the diaphram container (the zinc circular thingie!)
Will try this and update the thread accordingly:)
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AR turbo in Birstall sell all sort of spares
superb service to
These guys provide details on the Garrett GT20 type:
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I know it says trade enquires but http://www.turbotechnics.com/docs/components/t2actuator.htm seem to sell components, they might be able to give you a reseller...
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.a...mp;catalog=0001 seem to do a lot of actuators and the Discovery Owners club shows the turbo is a Garrett GT20
I suppose a new turbo is too expensive, but have seent them in LRO for around 380 new....
The Forge guys seem the best, let me know if you have any success, I might riing them myself..
Lovely, thanks Nic
P.S: I didnt realise it was called an actuator and not an activator!
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I posted on here a few weeks back when my TD5 started being really lumpy, and after some kind feedback from the folks on here I established that it was the turbo activator sticking:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...turbo+activator
It has since [turbo activator] started playing up intermitently, mainly after the engine gets warm after a run... Sometimes theres power then there isnt! I can rectify this with WD40 and a pair of pliers, but in all honesty I dont want to be doing this every 5 minutes!!!
Looking at microcat the turbo activator is not listed as a seperate component, so I was wondering if anyone out there may know where to get hold of one, or even better may have a spare one lying around that they would like to sell?
Alternatively, (and as I may have to do this myself) has anyone with a similar problem stripped an activator down and is able to give me a few pointers in the right direction, i.e. removal and problem parts/areas etc?
Many thanks
Jamie
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He's not talking about the screws.
On some types you just turn the black section in the middle!!
It seems that on mine the screws are the push buttons! D'oh!
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Mine has two small flush buttons on the bezel, I use a pen/pencil to make adjustments...
Is this for the analogue type (i.e. not digital)?
Mine has two small screws, I often thought that they may be the adjustments...hmmm!
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As per the topic, never been able to fathom out how you set the clock properly (52mm vdo type)...
Mines a TD5, but probably the same on 200/300's too!!!
How do you do it?
Jamie
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more likely to be either the door seals or from around the corner area above your feet, water from the channel at rear of the bonnet does drop directly onto the top of the footwell in the engine bay & rots it, unlikely to be the heater matrix as you would be getting the cab full or steam & smell of antifreeze.
Thought it was more likely to be the door seals (errr or gaps!)...!!!
Sluggish TD5
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Im near juction of M6 & M56...
Ive PM'ed Porny about running diagnostics, if you want to travel down 'convoy' style, im up for it!
LOL
Jamie