Jump to content

rabid spaniel

Settled In
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    South Lakes
  1. John I take your point on the satisfaction thing - and I have done some smaller bits (water pump/radiator etc) myself and planning to do swivels etc in August. Its just the bigger jobs (chassis etc) need space which I don't have, or skills (welding) that I'm not sure I want to explore. I like the idea about using local garage - my local bloke is a good egg and may well be up for what you suggest, so I will have a chat and see what can be done. (BTW is somewhere nice and hot landlocked, dusty, dangerous and for 6 months at a time?)
  2. Now there's a thought. But having priced the galv chassis, the fixed up bulkhead and the new engine (and the labour to do it, as I have neither time, space nor knowledge enough) to make it a worthwhile project (and thats before I try and sort the bodywork!!) I'm not sure that just investing in a late 300/ early TD5 doesn't make more sense.........
  3. Cheers Ralph I don't think it is drinking oil - I have checked the level frequently and haven't had to top it up since I changed it. When I checked the turbo there was a fine misting, nothing more and I am not leaving huge clouds of black behind me. I am (sincerely) hoping it is just the injector and will take it to 'my man' for a look. Well beyond my ability I suspect Thanks
  4. Well - it isn't the throttle cable. Opened her up when it was over revving and the cable was fully extended. thoughts?
  5. Sean Thanks. I was going to sort it yesterday - but it was peeing it down! I have ordered a couple of the small split pins so when I take the cable out and give it some love (although at £6 I may just buy a new one on spec) I can get it back in OK - the old ones have seen betterdays. I'll keep you posted
  6. OK - Checked turbo - oil present, but not 'lots' relative to the oil everywhere else! Difficult to know what amount spells danger. Considering how much there was in the filter when I changed that on purchase, it could have been there a while! I will check throttle tomorrow AM and apply some oil. It seems a little tight, but again with no reference point it is difficult to know.
  7. Thanks - I will have a look when I get home and let you know. Turbo on way out a win?? £450!! Better than new engine I suppose, but would be pushing me towards a Tdi.... Here's hoping.
  8. Sorry for being slow - but when you say the intake, where exactly do you mean? I'm getting better at this, but not fluent yet!
  9. Hi, Recently noticed that when the engine (1989 19J) is warm (been driven for a while) when I take foot off the accelerator the revs stay high for a few seconds before dropping off. It seems to be the warmer the engine the longer it takes to idle down. On occasion the revs can even be high when restarting the engine if it is still hot. I changed the radiator recently due to big leak, but that has made no difference. Any ideas??? Thanks
  10. South Lakes, but I've just ordered another one before seeing your kind offer! I may yet need a third one if my efforts continue in the current vein........
  11. Sorry I meant: No I didn't forget it, it went back in. That said I have just been out to check the drag link and discovered that I didn't refit the circlip properly and the guts have dropped out of the ball joint - kind of explaining why it is all feeling carp. Thats her off the road until I get another.........
  12. No spring went back in - although I have since read two versions of which way it is supposed to go in (of course there are only 2 ways, but you know what I mean). All bits in, drag link reattached. Steering loose..... I don't think tightening the adjustment screw on the steering box will make any difference as the drop arm isn't wobbly. the play seems to be between the ball joint and the drag link.
  13. OK, but I don't understand why replacing the ball joint suddenly introduces play. The drop arm moves in direct correlation to the steering wheel and you can see the ball joint move, but it doesn't move the rods immediately....
  14. Hi, I replaced the drop arm ball joint yesterday (what fun...) on my 1989 2.5 td 90, now the steering seems to have become less accurate. I can move the steering wheel 1/8 - 1/4 a turn without the wheels moving. On examination underneath, the ball joint/ steering arm is moving (ie the ball flexing in its seat), but not enough to get the rods mobile. Have I screwed up the fitting? Not tightened enough? Has it just uncovered a dodgy damper? Is this what LR steering is supposed to feel like ? (Because it was more accurate with the knackered ball joint!!) Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy