Jump to content

rabid spaniel

Settled In
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    25

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by rabid spaniel

  1. rabid spaniel
    John I take your point on the satisfaction thing - and I have done some smaller bits (water pump/radiator etc) myself and planning to do swivels etc in August. Its just the bigger jobs (chassis etc) need space which I don't have, or skills (welding) that I'm not sure I want to explore. I like the idea about using local garage - my local bloke is a good egg and may well be up for what you suggest, so I will have a chat and see what can be done. (BTW is somewhere nice and hot landlocked, dusty, dangerous and for 6 months at a time?)
  2. rabid spaniel
    Now there's a thought. But having priced the galv chassis, the fixed up bulkhead and the new engine (and the labour to do it, as I have neither time, space nor knowledge enough) to make it a worthwhile project (and thats before I try and sort the bodywork!!) I'm not sure that just investing in a late 300/ early TD5 doesn't make more sense.........
  3. rabid spaniel
    Cheers Ralph I don't think it is drinking oil - I have checked the level frequently and haven't had to top it up since I changed it. When I checked the turbo there was a fine misting, nothing more and I am not leaving huge clouds of black behind me. I am (sincerely) hoping it is just the injector and will take it to 'my man' for a look. Well beyond my ability I suspect Thanks
  4. rabid spaniel
    Well - it isn't the throttle cable. Opened her up when it was over revving and the cable was fully extended. thoughts?
  5. rabid spaniel
    Sean Thanks. I was going to sort it yesterday - but it was peeing it down! I have ordered a couple of the small split pins so when I take the cable out and give it some love (although at £6 I may just buy a new one on spec) I can get it back in OK - the old ones have seen betterdays. I'll keep you posted
  6. rabid spaniel
    OK - Checked turbo - oil present, but not 'lots' relative to the oil everywhere else! Difficult to know what amount spells danger. Considering how much there was in the filter when I changed that on purchase, it could have been there a while! I will check throttle tomorrow AM and apply some oil. It seems a little tight, but again with no reference point it is difficult to know.
  7. rabid spaniel
    Thanks - I will have a look when I get home and let you know. Turbo on way out a win?? £450!! Better than new engine I suppose, but would be pushing me towards a Tdi.... Here's hoping.
  8. rabid spaniel
    Sorry for being slow - but when you say the intake, where exactly do you mean? I'm getting better at this, but not fluent yet!
  9. rabid spaniel
    Hi, Recently noticed that when the engine (1989 19J) is warm (been driven for a while) when I take foot off the accelerator the revs stay high for a few seconds before dropping off. It seems to be the warmer the engine the longer it takes to idle down. On occasion the revs can even be high when restarting the engine if it is still hot. I changed the radiator recently due to big leak, but that has made no difference. Any ideas??? Thanks
  10. rabid spaniel
    South Lakes, but I've just ordered another one before seeing your kind offer! I may yet need a third one if my efforts continue in the current vein........
  11. rabid spaniel
    Sorry I meant: No I didn't forget it, it went back in. That said I have just been out to check the drag link and discovered that I didn't refit the circlip properly and the guts have dropped out of the ball joint - kind of explaining why it is all feeling carp. Thats her off the road until I get another.........
  12. rabid spaniel
    No spring went back in - although I have since read two versions of which way it is supposed to go in (of course there are only 2 ways, but you know what I mean). All bits in, drag link reattached. Steering loose..... I don't think tightening the adjustment screw on the steering box will make any difference as the drop arm isn't wobbly. the play seems to be between the ball joint and the drag link.
  13. rabid spaniel
    No, but provenance unknown
  14. rabid spaniel
    OK, but I don't understand why replacing the ball joint suddenly introduces play. The drop arm moves in direct correlation to the steering wheel and you can see the ball joint move, but it doesn't move the rods immediately....
  15. rabid spaniel
    Hi, I replaced the drop arm ball joint yesterday (what fun...) on my 1989 2.5 td 90, now the steering seems to have become less accurate. I can move the steering wheel 1/8 - 1/4 a turn without the wheels moving. On examination underneath, the ball joint/ steering arm is moving (ie the ball flexing in its seat), but not enough to get the rods mobile. Have I screwed up the fitting? Not tightened enough? Has it just uncovered a dodgy damper? Is this what LR steering is supposed to feel like ? (Because it was more accurate with the knackered ball joint!!) Thanks
  16. rabid spaniel
    Thanks all. Now just have to fight through the chaos around my steering column.....
  17. rabid spaniel
    Thanks - I've got the manual and just downlaoding rave as well - now I know its safe to use wire rated above the fuse I should be OK. Just proves how new this is to me!
  18. rabid spaniel
    And I guess the diameter directly relates to the AMP rating? Thanks
  19. rabid spaniel
    OK - so I have what looks like a short somewhere around the ignition switch that is causing the solenoid to kick in and stall the engine. I am going to have a bash at fixing it, but my concern is I don't know what Ampage of cable is needed for replacing exisiting wires (if I need to). There are obvious big thick wires (from the battery) and very thin ones and everything in between: is it written anywhere what rating each wire should be? I don't want to set fire to the truck! Thanks
  20. rabid spaniel
    So: solenoid works. No problem with the fuel. But I did find that when I knocked the indicator the engine stalled, so there is obviously a short somewhere around the ignition column. Problem is I have no idea where to start there. I took the steering column off and loosened the facia to look behind and frankly it looks like chaos! How do I find the fault?
  21. rabid spaniel
    No immobiliser, in fact nothing of the modern era about this wagon!
  22. rabid spaniel
    John, the engine is turning off on the ignition switch, so does that not mean the solenoid is closing off the fuel and can't have anything lodged under it? I still need to check the continuity to the solenoid, because I guess if it gets less than 12v it will shut off and cause me to stall. I also think I need to check lift pump to filter, which is tomorrow's job when there's no (decent) rugby to watch! Thanks for your help
  23. rabid spaniel
    So, on the way home wagon doing it again. When engine was running I popped the lid and tugged on the spade connector and it didn't stop the engine: so it's not that connector. Could still be ignition end or something else.may even be solenoid Itself suppose. Will try the other tests as suggested, but any ideas about what the fuel end of things?
  24. rabid spaniel
    Thanks - that's a great help - I will do as directed. Am I right to rule out the fuel lift pump or associated fuel issues due to the inconsistent nature of the problem? RS
  25. rabid spaniel
    Hi, Am a new starter to this, but happy to get hands dirty. I have recently acquired 1989 90 2.5TD (123K miles). Having a problem with her stalling intermittently. Can be when starting, or can be when rolling along in 4th, or anywhere in between. Can go several journeys with nothing happening and then, like this morning, it can happen consistently for 15 minutes.Engine just dies and battery light comes on. No stuttering or spluttering, just stops. Engine fires OK when re-starting (so there must be fuel there), then stops.Recent new battery if that matters, but this issue overlaps new and old battery. My thoughts: Unlikely to be fuel pump or dirty filter etc, because it isn't consistent? am I right? Thinking solenoid, but don't know if solenoids have straight line failure - ie do they either work or not, or can they fluctuate? Which leads me to thinking it is a dodgy connection between the ignition and the solenoid that is responsible. Which worries me, because whilst happy to spanner bash I am scared by vehicle electrics! Experience/ views welcome: need to try and fix this ASP - don't want this beautiful relationship to sour! Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy

  I accept