Spearos
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Posts posted by Spearos
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I had chance to have a little poke around at the weekend - battery water level was fine, no immediately obvious signs of dirty, bad connections (from what I could see without removing stuff). The alternator on the TD5 is a pig to get to, I imagine removing brushes in situ would be very difficult, if at all possible.
There was however evidence of a slight coolant leak near the belt idler (previously I bodged a small length of pipe to replace the bend of that small bore plastic pipe that always breaks where it joins the rad, which no doubt was the culprit). My thinking was could coolant be making its way onto the belt causing it to slip? It made sense as the light had only come on once engine had been at operating temp (cooling system under pressure), however if belt was slipping wouldnt I feel heavy steering from PAS pump not turning?
I ran engine up to temp in the hope that I could observe leak and it's projection, except there was no leak. I went for a quick drive, no battery light, still no leak. belt slip idea absndoned. I decided to use car for work today.
Light came on briefly on the way to work, and on the way home. Both times whilst doing ~70mph on a dual carriageway.
Is there a clue in that I wonder?
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I replaced the belt and tensioner less than 6 months ago, so they should be fine. There's certainly no obvious signs that the belt is slipping.
Will check the battery water - thanks. Other thing I did notice is there is quite a build up of corrosion on the positive terminal and I do believe I've read that this can be a sign of over charging too?
Edit: thanks for the links
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Hello!
Monday evening coming home from work, the battery light came on in the TD5. Thing is, it would go out when I let off the gas and also, sometimes whilst idling stationary.
Once home, I left it for ~24 hours before utilising my extremely limited electrical experience!
- Rested battery 13v
- idling no load 14.6v
- idling w/load 14.5v
Dodgy regulator, and overcharging?
I'm clueless with electrics!
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Yes, of course! Out of interest, where's the guide going to be?
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So after many trouble free months, out of the blue the whole thing went crazy - all needles frantically bounced all over the place, the speaker was bonging rapidly and all warning lights were blinking/flashing! After 5 seconds or so it settled down only to leave me without the odometer display, and the green M and S light illuminated.
Everything else appears ok - speedo and tacho work, as does the partial odometer. The M and S lights are now out too and haven't come back on.
It hasn't rained for weeks here so that rules out water ingress, I guess.
Anyone have any ideas?
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So, I may have got to the bottom of this. Possibly...
Other than the single temp gauge malfunction, the IP has been behaving and I have a theory -
When the head lining was fitted and it rained, the top left hand corner would get very wet (it didn't before the windscreen was fitted and of course I didn't have this issue before the windscreen was fitted). Also when I removed head lining it was stuck to the excess windscreen sealant along the top of the screen. When I removed the headlining and checked for leaks, it was leaking in the middle of the screen.
Now, what I'm thinking is that the water was coming in at the top of the screen and with the lining being stuck to the windsreen sealant it was diverting most of the water to the top of the nearside A post. Here the water was running down the A post and into the side of the footwell (inside of the lower wing). There are connectors here (behind the plastic trim) that I understand are connected to the SLABS/BCU. I removed said plastic trim today and although it is dry behind it, there is evidence of water being there such as scale on the earth point that behind the connectors.
Is my theory feasable? Could water interfering with these connections cause the IP to act up? - Since the headlining was removed the water is no longer being diverted down the A post to these connections hence no recent occurrences of the speedo going on one?
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22 hours ago, sierrafery said:
If the IP(instrument pack) is with lower mileage you are OK cos you can sync' it with the BCU using a tester as to adopt the real mileage, problem is if the IP has higher mileage cos then you are stuck with that no way to go backwards to the real one
Thanks for the info - saved me from time spent on google!
8 hours ago, Ally V8 said:I think I'd be looking at the fusebox below the steering wheel for water ingress before condemning the instrument pack. All the water ingress problems I've dealt with over the years have had problems in there or the BCU.Stopping the water should be high on the list of repair priority, otherwise you will end up with niggling faults for the rest of the cars life.
The interior fuse box isnt something that I've looked at (other than checking fuse). Will be taking a good look at it once I get chance. Thanks.
Just to add to the strangeness, the IP did something different today - the speedo, rev, LCD were fine however the temp gauge warning light came on and the temp needle very slowly went all the way to the max before dropping back to min and moving back to max again (probably 5 seconds from min to max). It did this many, many times before suddenly behaving again!
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Thank you sierrafery. Incidentally I've read a lot of stuff written by you, and not just on here - certainly know your stuff. It just seems funny that the fault is more persistent after or during rain
I'm sure I have read somewhere that changing the instrument pack isn't straight forward, especially if you get a second hand unit with a lower mileage on it. Looks like I have some searching/reading to do...
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Hoping someone can help, give me some pointers/checks to carry out? Pretty please
Since July the speedo on my 2003 Disco TD5 has started to play up. At first I noticed the speedo needle would occasionally 'shake', then it would temporally stick. The last week or so the odometer has started to blank out as well, along with the fuel/temp gauges not registering. Initially these faults would last for 10-30 seconds at a time, however recently it will play up for anything between 10 seconds and 15 minutes. I did notice today though that a hard bump in the road 'brought it back to life'.
I did have the windscreen replaced and it does leak slightly - recently I noticed a water mark on the inside of the screen. The head lining has always got slightly wet since I got the car so this weekend I took out the head lining out to see if it was sunroof, windscreen or both. I suspect the old windscreen leaked as well as the new one as the sunroof is fine.
The issue does appear to be more common when it has been raining or is raining. So I'm thinking the issue could be down to water and electrics mixing?
I have checked the SLABs ECU connections and the connections to the binnicle and they all appear dry and ok.
Mark
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A couple of months ago I had my windscreen replaced (big crack) on my Disco 2 for it's MOT. The guy who did it was a complete numpty mainly because he managed to break the scuttle panel, but the company did provide me with a brand new item... eventually.
However today I removed the binnicle surround (for reasons I'm not going into... yet) and it came to my attention that the two mounting points (at the bottom) are broken, looks like it was removed with brute force! Now, I had this part off a while back to change a bulb and I remember these two screws - to get to them the steering column trim halves need removing, so I know it was not broken back then.
My question is this though - can anyone think of a reason why the binnicle surround might have been removed during windscreen replacement? Before I go nuts (again) at the company I just want to be fairlyconfident it was said numpty!
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28 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Last batch of boxes were black, and paint markers never work 1st time.
Touché!
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24 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Marker pen + masking tape = label on box, easy!
What a waste of masking tape - just write on the box!
18 minutes ago, landroversforever said: not much... its mostly localised. Just angle the sparks!
That never works for me - I still get nasty black bogeys, despite not aiming at my nose!!
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23 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Without lids but that means you can see whats in there.ble box of a standard size.
Also means everything in them will be covered in all that dust from the grinder etc etc! But.. if it works for you, that's what matters.
I hate any storage that is open, especially those little boxes which clip on a back board. I like to keep the contents of any storage free from the dreaded angle grinder dust - it gets everywhere and I'm always surprised by the sheer quantity of it!
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13 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
That should give you enough room if you keep the place tidy. Mine is 14' across and just about wide enough to work on the car easily. As long as you keep the floor clutter to a minimum.
Some decent shelves down the sides up above head height can save a lot of space by moving things off the floor. I plan for a 15" deep shelf right down one side of mine, which shouldn't interfere with the wider car clearance envelope.
Exactly that! The plan is to have racking down one side and a worktop with storage underneath along the other - I will just have to try and keep two sections (opposite one another) clear for increased width. As you say you can still have high level shelves/storage in these sections.
Crates (not necessarily from Tesco!) are great. i've got a load of those plastic moving boxes with the flapped lids, which all being the same size and stackable is great for making the most of any space designated for storage.
I was meant to say in my last post that Les nailed it when he said working indoors beats working outside. I dont mind the cold, it's rolling about in a puddle that gets me! The other big advantage for me is privacy - I dont like people seeing what tools/goodies I have!
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Thanks guys, good to hear all the different opinions.
I will be restricted to a building with an internal width of 4.2m because of where it's going (long story), so as long as I keep the walls clear (ish) it should give me decent space either side.
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3 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Not so far, but I don't have much cause to be jacking it up often. Honestly, as long as you can lift the axle enough to get a wheel off you can do most things. What's most annoying is the lack of width but that wasn't really viable to do much about. I have just about 1m each side of the vehicle, maybe a bit less, and it's not enough for comfortable working.
Thanks Fridge, thanks for your input....And thanks for making me now worry about the width!
I've had a look at your garage
Is that really a meter either side? A meter seems enough (in theory anyway), in our old house there was a fence on one side of our drive and I often worked on my 90 with around a meter between it and the fence and I didn't find it difficult. Hmmmmm
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18 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Maybe 20cm?
Does this cause you much frustration though Fridge?
11 minutes ago, Arjan said:If you have to be careful with the height - work with 40 cm..
We have a luxery that we can go up to 9 mtrs. if we want to - but we want to keep the new workshop under 4 mtrs.
Either use a swivel chait to go under the secured vehicle - or a shallow pit...
Bon Courage !
Thank you Arjan!
The more think about it the more I think 2.5m should be fine. The times I will need to lift a vehicle more than 40cm are surely going to be limited, so when they do occur I can just work on my car outside, or make other plans.
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I'm back!
So here we are almost a year later and still no workshop! I severely underestimated the time it would take to do some stuff to the new house, mainly down to the the arrival of a second little mite!
Anyhow his will be the year! I've been busy beavering away, making plans and I'm pretty much ready to start my planning permission application. Just one issue - I really cannot decide what the minimum height to have internally?
I'm thinking vehicle height plus 40cm (typical range of a 2/3t trolley jack) for raising the vehicle? Please dont anyone say make it 'as high as you can' - the site is elevated so I want to keep the eaves height of any building to an absolute minimum otherwise the workshop will look huuggggggeeeee at the back of my garden!
Your thoughts please, on how much headroom I need to raise a landie sufficiently?
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Good evening ladies and gentlemen!
Recently I replaced the front dampers, springs and turrets on my Discovery TD5. Before I did this I scoured the interweb for all the information and made notes. I thought rather then throwing the notes away I would post them on here - hopefully will be of use to somebody...
Part Numbers
Spring N/S TD5 & V8 --- REB101340
Spring O/S TD5 --- REB101341
Spring O/S V8 --- REB101330
Spring Seat N/S --- REG000030
Spring Seat O/S --- REG000020
Isolator (turret ring) --- RBC100111
Turret nuts (M8 flange head nyloc)
Dampers (coil front suspension, air rear, non ACE) --- RNB103533
Dampers (coil front, coil rear, with ACE) --- RNB103683
Dampers (coil front suspension, air rear, with ACE --- RNB103694
Lower damper bolts (M10x30 flange head bolt)
Turrets --- KVU101051 Silly money from LR and aftermarket not much cheaper. I went for heavy duty versions - thicker, stronger, will last longer and the open design is easier to clean the cr*p out. I got mine from here http://www.shirefabrications.com/ they don't actually advertise them (maybe because they supply the likes of Paddocks etc - they look identical) but give them a ring, great service & nice people and cheaper
Bump stops --- RNV100060
Anti roll bar links --- RBM100223
Anti roll bar nuts (M12 flange head nyloc) --- RYH100590
Torques
Damper lower bolts --- 45nm/33ft lb(from Land Rover workshop manual - I have seen 55nm/40ft lb quoted)
Damper top bolt --- 125nm/92ft lb
Isolator/turret nuts --- 23nm/17 ft lb
Anti roll bar link nuts --- 100nm/74ft lb
Easy enough to do, plenty of guides/info if you search. Unless you're using a ramp I suggest using coil spring compressors (can be done without).
All info given in good faith however I cannot guarantee the accuracy. Enjoy!
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Udderly.... I love you!!
I've just found the application for 'demolition of a garage and erection of one in it's place', just around the corner from me. It's a recent application too, so hopefully most info will be current. Should give me a very accurate idea of what I need to do.Massive, massive help. Thank you once again!
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Cracking info there from Fridge. If I might offer my advice: Fridge alluded to the govt planning portal. Have a look at your local council’s planning website. My council at least, Bristol, allows you a map-based search of approved planning permissions. So, you can see the required standard of documentation for your area. I know it ‘should’ be the same across the country, but certain councils will be ‘keen’ on certain aspects. Soakaways appear to be Bristol’s favourite at the moment.
In fact, you can take this a step further. Should you happen to spy a recently-built garage/workshop that you like the look of – fire up the planning website and have a snoop of the plans. You’d be surprised at quite how much information is on there.
Matt
Great idea! I've just had a snoop around South Oxfordshire District Council's site and there are loads of examples - lots to be learnt there I think!!
Many thanks for this info/idea, much appreciated!
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Right, a few details from our plans. I couldn't get Autocad to spit out PDF's this time round so you'll have to live with some shonky screenshots.
Our block plan was from www.streetwise.net, unfortunately planners demand this, you can't use google maps or Ozi or scan in a map you haven't paid copyright fees for
and you can't even use freely available government mapping or the map on the deeds of your own house 
so you've got to pay someone £30+ just to promise you haven't stolen a drawing of your own house 
Plans were drawn in Autocad because I had it but planning lady said for this sort of thing pen & paper would be fine as long as it was to scale. Those triangular scale rulers are very handy for that.
They are VERY hot on the scale being right, if it's not to scale you MUST write "not to scale" on it or they'll send it back - ask me how I know! They also want NORTH marked on and some sort of scale marker.
You don't need the 3D views, I put those in because it was easy to do in Autocad and I kinda wanted to see what it looked like.
As our street slopes a bit I chose the top corner as the datum/reference point as that would give us a handy drop, giving us a taller door at the other end for a low roof height measurement relative to the datum.
That's it for now. Everything gets uploaded & submitted through the govt planning portal these days. Any questions I'll try to dig round and see what we did!
Fridge... You're an absolute star!! That's very, very helpful - gives me an idea of what to expect and of course the benefit of your experience (all the 'ask me how I knows')!
Appears it's a little more involved than I thought. I was expecting to have to provide drawings/dimensions, however the requirement to go into materials surprises me. Strikes me of more of a regs thing but I guess it's all about appearance. I was kind of hoping to make a few details up as I go - for example the personnel door I thought about sourcing a decent second hand one etc.
The next few weeks (months) I need to swot up on all the requirements for an application and get it as clear as I can in my head. However you've given me a great start - I think I need to investigate the 'call in clinic' thing in this area, as I think that'll give me the 'most juice per squeeze'. Oh, and of course I need to finalise a design
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I'd have been perfectly happy with a good quality wooden structure - it was space that forced us to shell out for brick. The existing
garageshack was built with a party wall with the neighbours garage and using the boundary wall extended up as it's back wall (probably not legal when it was built - definitely not now - as it means it overhangs the boundary!) As it is the new garage is only 4.8m long internally on it's shorter side (it's not square), and making the old internal wall weatherproof and then coming back a meter from that would have lost a chunk more garden. Realistically, probably the only way to do it would have been to put a turning area where the garage is and then turn the garage 90o and put it in the middle of the garden. Which would have left us with virtually no garden... On the plus side we'd have gained a decent drive!Nothing's easy is it?! I remember when we were looking at houses, naively I just thought if it's got a big enough garden for a big shed/garage it'll be fine... Then once we bought the house I started to read about permitted development, building regs etc and realised it's not quite so easy to comply, utilise space and get exactly what you want!
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My 1st shed was a steel one from Premier Steel Buildings (see ebay!), 8mx5m with roller-shutter door, came in at 4.4k delivered some years ago now. Not heard anything about fire-proofing a steel building and not sure WTF you could do to make it less combustible than it already is
The recent brick garage build had to go through planning (4m x 11m ish), but they were helpful enough and apart from a couple of details where I got the wrong scale on the drawings it was no problem - and as others have said, at least having done planning you know you're 100% in the clear, no question. For a simple garage you only need very basic plans, it's not too bad, I could post mine up if it would be helpful.
Had to go sectional up & over shutter door to keep the roof height down whilst also getting an ambulance in there and not swinging any part of a door out over the pavement (for planning), the sectional doors are insulated and only need about 150mm of overhead space, you can sort-of see it here:
I spoke to one of Premier Steel's agents. apparently the uprights sometimes need to have fireboard protection to retain integrity should they get very hot or something along those lines...
Some info on the planning side of things would be great - going over 2.5m high is a no brainer, so that takes me out of permitted development. I would be interested in your drawings if you'll be kind enough to share. Did you have to submit a location plan and a site/block plan?
I think I'm sold on a roller shutter door to be honest (if I can fit one in). I like that they aren't in the way, don't restrict anything when open.
Is that really a meter either side? A meter seems enough (in theory anyway), in our old house there was a fence on one side of our drive and I often worked on my 90 with around a meter between it and the fence and I didn't find it difficult. Hmmmmm
I've just found the application for 'demolition of a garage and erection of one in it's place', just around the corner from me. It's a recent application too, so hopefully most info will be current. Should give me a very accurate idea of what I need to do.
and you can't even use freely available government mapping or the map on the deeds of your own house 
so you've got to pay someone £30+ just to promise you haven't stolen a drawing of your own house 
Battery Light Queerness
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Update! There may be a diagnosis of sorts!
Coming home from work on Friday the light came on and stayed on. It was on when I switched off, so I thought I'd grab my multimeter straightaway and test whilst the light was present. Only it wouldn't start! So definitely the alternator as fault and not the warning light!
Took alternator off and it's very oily/dirty. Seems the culprit is the front camshaft cover, so will be replacing this before I go any further.
Brushes were well and truly gunked up (see photo - was worse than that but a lot of crud fell inout upon removal). Now, I'm thinking there is a very good chance that the dirty brushes could have been sticking or just not making contact, which would explain the intermittent fault? How likely does this sound?
I've cleaned them up, but am I wasting my time refitting them and the alternator?