Spearos
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Posts posted by Spearos
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Feel a little foolish now - putting new seal(s) in a worn cylinder would be a really stupid idea! A new master cylinder it is then!
Thanks all!
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Could be master cylinder - the seals inside might have picked up a little damage if you bled the brakes by pumping the pedal rather than using a vacuum or pressure bleeder.
Could be caused by a slight ridge on the cylinder where the pushrod normally goes back and forth - going beyond this when pumping the pedal may damage an old seal very slightly
I did indeed bleed the brakes by pumping the pedal, so perhaps you are on to something there.
So what do you folks think is best - rebuild the 'Girling' master cylinder with genuine bits? Or, spend about £25 more and buy a brand new TRW master cylinder?
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Can't possibly comment on the MPG, but the Grabber TRs I had were fine in the wet and snow on tarmac... But terrible in muddy/wet fields!
I was however, truly astonished at how durable they were - seemed to go on forever!
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I'm sure I'll be corrected if I'm wrong but tracking could perhaps result in just one tyre wearing unevenly - in the 'straight ahead' position it is possible that one wheel is at the desired toe in / toe whilst the other is 'scrubbing' where it is 'out'.
Failing that perhaps a worn suspension componant (bush?) on that particular side could be causing the uneven wear?
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A little while ago I replaced the front discs and pads on my 90, at the same time I fitted some rebuilt calipers.
All appeared fine, however on a couple of occassions the pedal felt like it went down further with the brakes feeling less effective. If I released the brake pedal and pressed again it did feel better/firmer.
- Bled brakes, practically no air came out.
- Checked for leaks with SWMBO pressing on the pedal, I have also monitored the reservoir level and it hasn't dropped.
- The flexi hoses are not 'bulging' under pressure
- The rear drum brakes are adjusted correctly.
- There is no play in the wheel bearings.
- Pressing on the pedal and starting the engine results in the pedal dropping slightly - servo ok?
- Discs and Pads are Mintex items and calipers were rebuilt with stainless pistons and genuine seals.
For obvious reasons I am a little concerned about this. I'm starting to suspect the master cylinder, but wanted to get some opinions on this? Would a failing master cylinder seal mean loss of brake fluid?
Reading the 'how to' article on here about overhauling the master cylinder, it is recommended to go for a genuine kit. However, I see a TRW/Lucas Master Cylinder is around £60 and with a genuine overhaul kit coming in at almost £40 (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/90765/5497/brake_master_cyl_o_haul_kit_def) I guess I would be better off just buying the Master Cylinder?
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Thanks very much for the rapid response. I had no idea what OBDII compliant meant however my good friend Wikipedia has filled that void in my knowledge for me. Not sure whether this is within my somewhat average electronic ability otherwise it might mean a call to Hometune. Thanks again.
It's easy enough to clear the code(s), like the others have said get yourself a code reader and have a read of the instructions. It's just a case of plugging it in and pressing a few buttoms and possibly turning the keys. I have a 'Vagscanner' for the mrs' Lupo and I find it very easy to use.
The scanner is very useful to own and I'm sure you'll use it again. It will pay for its self very quickly too! And... If you don't get on with it, some one will no doubt buy it off you!
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I have one of those cheap aprons and it does the job just fine. Great shout with the sleeves, like the look of them. My forearms do seem to get more than their fair share of burns.
As for your lug holes, what you need is a leather balaclava - perhaps your local sex shop can help...
Quite fitting that emoticon!!! -
I've never seen just the frame for sale. However I have seen many decent bonnets on Ebay go for sensible money. Of course that would probably mean painting it the colour of your vehicle but that's not so bad is it?
HTH.
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Have you tried Dunsfold Land Rovers? Recently I needed a rare heater resistor and although the usual retailers had it listed, no one actually had one! Someone recommended Dunsfold Land Rovers. They had it and were very friendly/helpful/efficient.
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When raining or after rain, with your vehicle stationary and on relatively level ground does water run down your windscreen from the front roof gutter?
Mine did and consquently the water would end up in my footwell. Upon closer inspection there was gunk/debris/old sealant blocking the run off for the front gutter, so the water would over flow the gutter and run down the screen to wherever it was that it gained entry.
Since clearing the gutter, any water that finds its way into the gutter runs out to the side, NOT down the screen and my footwell has stayed dry.... so far!
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When I do this test, I chock the wheels and take the hand brake off, leaving the gearbox in first. I then use the handbrake drum to rotate the gear inside the t'box. I've a video on youtube showing what it looks like.
Nice one. Explains/shows it very well. Something I plan to have a look at... one day soon!
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Thanks Smego.
However the main reason I'm asking is the fact my 90 is an original factory fitted V8 in pretty much unmolested condition, which i'm lead to believe are becoming a bit on thin on the ground these days.
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So... an 'upgrade' has caught my eye and I'm thinking about selling my 90
I would like people's opinions on what it's worth.
In summary:
- It's an E plate, original V8 county unmolested with just over 120k miles.
- Bodywork scruffy, lots of bubbling but strait. Galvanised tub cappings fitted
- Sound chassis, although the outriggers have been patched and *possibly* will need more work for MOT in Oct
- All 3 doors are literally falling apart, but still work.
- Bulkhead rot in top corners but A posts and footwells ok AFAIK.
- Loads of recipts, regualar oil changes, recent Swivel rebuild, clutch master cylinder, front brakes and various bushes.
- Very reliable, runs
Also, the 'upgrade' is another factory V8 on a D plate with a galvanised chassis. This 90 was rebuilt a few years ago by a 'Land Rover specialist'. It looks mint - I will be viewing it soon and will know more. Any ideas roughly what price I should be looking at?
Cheers guys.
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Can do, might take me a few days to get to the shed & dig it out.
No worries, I'm far from being in any kind of rush!
PM sent.
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Real steel or V8Tuner are good for parts. The genuine cam gear is plastic for quietness, later ones (P38) are metal.
If you're feeling cheap I've got the duplex timing gears (and an RP4 cam) from my 4.6 when I switched to Serpentine front end, the gears are like new (cam's not bad either TBH), yours for a forum donation.
Always feeling cheap!! That's a mighty fine offer, I'm definitely interested! Would you be willing to post if I covered the cost?
If you do do the cam, genuine lifters only.Again, noted for future refeference - i think I'll leave the cam alone... for now! Thanks.
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Use ELRING Gaskets for Head and Inlet Manifold
Buy a GENUINE LR Timing cover gasket, you won't belive the difference between them and pattern genuine = NO sealer at all
its built into / onto the gasket worth every penny IMHO and not enspensive
Nige
All taken on board, cheers. What about the gears/chain? Any brands to go for? Or avoid?
Also, what's the deal with the plastic or steel camshaft gears?
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Changing cam will require taking the inlet manifold off too.
Hmmmm, well we'll see how adventurous I feel nearer the time! I've had the manifold off when I did the head gaskets and didn't find it too much of a ball ache...
Thank you for your input
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I know where I can get a decent second hand early diesel radiator for sensible money, so this is what I'll do - Tee off the one 8mm outlet into two, one for the expansion tank and the other going to the inlet manifold/carbs.
Smashing. Cheers guys.
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Quick question, the radiator on an early 90/110 V8 appears to be the same as the radiator fitted to the 2.5d and 2.5TD (without oil cooler), the only difference seems to be that as well as the main inlet/outlet the V8 rad has two small (8mm?) inlets/outlets compared to the diesels' one.
*So, my question is there anything stopping me using a diesel radiator with a simple T piece to accommodate the two hoses?
*Yes, my 90 has lots of leaks!
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Thanks for all the replies
Engine has done 120k and as far as I know is on original gears/chain and cam. So perhaps this is something I'll look into doing while I'm 'in there'.
The longer bolts through the timing cover can snap, so take it gentle! I'd order a set of new ones if the engine's a few years old. Worth marking / noting which bolt goes in which hole as they're all different lengths, just to confuse you.Might be worth splashing the extra £2.50 for a crank nose oil seal while you're there, don't want to nick it on the way off and not have a spare.
I will do that cardboard template with holes trick for the bolts, and pray none are seized! Thanks for the heads up Fridge - I will have to plan the operation carefully timewise as it's my daily driver. Good shout with the seal too!
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It seems I have finally got to the source of a small oil leak on my 3.5 V8 - it appears to be coming from the front/timing cover gasket.
Now I've done a bit of googling and it all seems straight forward enough to replace - set engine to TDC on cyl 1, mark dizzy position, whip off dizzy, belts etc, remove cover bolts and off it comes. However from what I've read I'm not sure if I need to remove any (2?) sump bolts?
Also while I'm on here rambling on, is there anything else to be aware of? Are the bolts prone to seizing? Anything worth doing/checking while I'm at it? I understand the crank pulley can be a swine to remove - what's your top tip for getting it off?
Any comments most welcome!
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I had this exact problem last week. Some good suggestions there, especially like the idea of drilling/tapping the piston and using a bolt - great idea!
The way I did it though was to split the calipers, leave some plus gas to soak in on the offending seized pistons before gripping them with water pump pliers and twisting them. Once the 'seal' was broken they popped out nicely with compressed air.
Another option would be to use a punch and hammer to try and and get the pistons turning in their bores, once they're moving it shouldn't be too hard to get them out.
It all depends I guess on the condition of your pistons, and if you plan to replace them?
Don't ignore what snagger says above, I made sure the seats for the seals were spotless with small bits of Scotchpad and had no trouble what-so-ever getting the retaining rings in.
HTH
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Western you are a legend! Really appraeciate you taking the time to look this up - top bloke! Many, many thanks!
Looks pretty straight forward, and inexpensive too! What is the likelyhood the reason speed 3 isn't working being a failed resistor? Do you know if there are any tests I can do to confirm it's the resistor that's failed?
Quite fitting that emoticon!!!
Tyre wear, tracking, rear axle....i'm stumped!!
in International Forum
Posted
I had a similar scenario when I tried the 'string method' to check my tracking, so I used the method that *I think* is mentioned later in HFH's tracking thread - basically getting the distance between front wheels rims the same front and back, or clamping a bit of angle iron/bar to each hub doing the same.
Out of curiousity after changing my upper trailing arm bushes I checked the tracking with some string and all was good, so IMO it's fair to say the string method has it's limitations... if you have a lose back end!
HTH