Spearos
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Posts posted by Spearos
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Many thanks for your input, gives me something else to work with in my research! Looking at your links, it would appear I have the vertical dash unit. I take it there was two air con systems fitted to early 90s/110s - what do these names mean - 'underdash' and 'vertical'?
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Would really appreciate any help or suggestions with this as I really don't have the first idea when it comes to electrical problems.
My 90 originally had air-con and therefore has unfamiliar heater controls when compared to other 90s, the fan has 3 speeds and the third (fastest) has never worked. With the wet/cold weather recently the windows seem to be constantly covered in condensation. The V8 produces plenty of heat so it would be really, really good to have a bit more 'blow' to get that heat into the vehicle and onto the windows!
I've done a little research and have come to the conclusion that it could be down to a failed resistor? Now, does anyone know A)where the hell this lives? And B) can it be changed and if so how? or C)anything else I can do? - I plan to check and seal any leaks from the blower motor through to the vents but obviously if I had top speed working on the motor, that would improve things hugely.
Any help/advice would be great as the condensation is driving me crazy!!
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Normally the float is fixed to a 'hinge' and it's just a case of bending this hinge, which then dictates at what volume of fuel the supply is cut off. What you need to know is what this height should be (setting) for your carb.
Different carbs may have different methods for adjusting the float height, but in my limited experiance the above is the norm.
HTH
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Did you check the float level? Sounds like it could set too low.... Possibly :s
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Did you check the float level? Sounds like it could set too low.... Possibly :s
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Why not buy a proven ready made engine heater? http://www.landrover...-engine-heater/
Where's the fun in that?! You won't learn anything, you'd get a lot less satisfaction and I bet it's pricey! If you want it easy, you shouldn't of bought a Land Rover!!
what i was thinking of doing was replacing the silly rubber radiator plug with one of Simons metal ones and having the middle drilled out and tapped to accept a threaded 6" immersion heater element. the element would sit in the main body of the radiator and therefore should promote some significant convection current and heat everything quite evenly. Even if it didnt, and only heated up the majority of the coolant in the radiator and inlet/outlet pipes - its still a bloody good start.
plus i was thinking of spending £5 more on the heating element with built in thermostat, so that the coolant would not exceed 90C at that localised point to prevent boiling.
That point on the rad is only 6" away from an existing hole in my front grill surround (had a winch plug in it) so would seem a logical place to put a waterproof anderson plug. then get a length of amoured 3 core with a 13amp plug on one end and anderson plug on t'other and bobs your uncle!
Sounds like you've done a fair bit of thinking about this - great idea to locate it in one of the end tanks on the rad. The thermostat would be a good touch too. Shame there is so much I need to do to my truck before I even contemplate projects like this... Prioritising sucks!
Although slapping an electric heater in the truck is very simple, heating the coolant has a slight benefit as it'll save you fuel and possibly reduce engine wear?
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i'm still toying with the idea of putting a small 240v immersion heater into the coolant system somehow and fitting an anderson plug on the grill - park up and plug my truck in to the garage on a timer. 6am the immersion heater turns on and heats up the coolant for when i get out the house at 7.30.
instantly warm engine and heater!
Interesting idea, would you need a pump though? Or would you be relying on a convection current? As for fitting the immersion heater would it not just mean fabricating a vessel to take the heater with an inlet and outlet plumbed into the cooling system?
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in my transit crewcab ive got a 2000w inverter, i plug in a 600w convector heater. start the truck up and shes nice and warm
Reminds me of an idea I read about somewhere (perhaps on here) about running an extension lead into your truck to a small heater and putting the extension lead on one of those timer plug thingy-me-wotsits. Set it to come on half hour before you're due to leave in the morning and there you go - a nice warm, de misted truck waiting for you!
Of course this was mentioned on the assumption that you're after instant heat first thing, before the engine's warmed up...
That sounds good my mother in law has a coal effect one I could fit it in the passenger footwell for that traditional look
I like this, if I had an inverter (and an electric coal effect fire for that matter) I'd do this for the crack. My Mrs might then actually enjoy a trip in my 90... Maybe...
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Ever so slightly off topic, but.... Don't even think about buying it!!
Years ago at work they spent around 30k on a brand new electric milk float, now to cut a long story short this thing was utter ****! Anyway it had a 'heater' identical to this one and it was completely useless! It produced fairly warm air but was so weak I could blow harder!!
It *may* not be the same but it damn well looks like the junk that was fitted in the embarassment that was affectionately called the "fcuk truck"...
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heat with a blow torch and squirt some Plusgas on - should release the brake pipe from the nut easily enough, caliper bolt will be a bit harder as the whole caliper will act as a heatsink, but plusgas works wonders.
Another vote for Plusgas and heat - I had a very seized drag link (you know what a swine these can be) that finally succumbed to this combination.
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Just round the corner from me, Frogs Island are having a bit of a clear out. Or at least they are selling the goods for their parent company Allmakes, who are moving premises.
Anyway I put my name on their mailing list and recieved this today, might be of interest to other forum users... Apologies for the format had trouble with the original on Excel
BTW I have nothing to do with Frogs and am no way connected to them or Allmakes.
Frogs Island 4x4 Christmas Clear Out List
Items for sale may be withdrawn from sale with out notice. Items may also be reserved over the phone or in person priar to the sale on the 15th of December with an agreed sale price. Some items do no have part numbers and are based on Descriptions. All Prices inlude VAT
Part Number
Quantity
Description Condition
RRP Price
Expected Sale Price
1
Genuine Land Rover Defender 110 Roof Rack (G4 Challenge style) with rear Access ladder
Used
£1,014.00
£350.00
1
Roof Tent 1.4m x 1.2 Brand Unkown
Used
£350.00
GRW001
1
Defender/ Discovery / RRC White 8 Spoke 7jx16" Steel road wheel
New
£65.00
£32.50
FRHX4011
1
Toyota Hilux 05 Double Cab Track Mount 1.4m Slimline Rack 1330cm x 1165cm
New
£770.00
£335.00
FRPR4003
1
Toyota Prado 70series SWB 1.8m Slimline Rack 1225cm x 1750cm
New
£757.00
£379.00
FRPR4009
1
Toyota Pradao 2010> Track mounted Slimline Rack 2138cm x 1225cm
New
£936.00
£468.00
1
Front Runner Roof Rack Basket 2150cm x 1330cm (No Fittings)
New
£150.00
ARBTR58
1
ARB Long Ranger Fuel Tank for Toyota 70 series HZJ78/VDJ78 Diesel Troop Carrier 180 litre replacement tank
New
£840.00
£420.00
PRADOl1
1
Toyota Prado 120 rear Access Ladder
New
£138.00
£45.00
308162247
1
Volvo S40/ V40 Snow Chains Tyre Size 195/55R15
New
£100.00
5
Gold Anodised Defender with Anti Roll Bar Track Rod Guards
New
£80.00
£40.00
2
Black Powder Coated Defender with out anti roll bar Track Rod Guard
£80.00
£40.00
STC8650
1
Defender 90 Rear Crossmember with extensions Slightly Damaged but still be in good order once fitted
New
£222.00
£85.00
1
Tubular Winch Bumper with A Bar (Terrafirma TF001 style) will need modification to fit any vehicle. New but scratched from moving around
new
£50.00
1
Defender Door mirror with Arm
New
£15.00
1
Toyota 80 Series Rear Quater Windows (Dark Tint)
used
£45.00
FRDRSW02
1
Discovery Front Runner Ammo Box Draw System (With boxs
New
£795.00
£280.00
04438-60021
1
Toyota Land Cruiser Model HDJ100 1998 > 2004 OEM Front Drive Shaft CV Gaiter Repair Kit. New, in original packaging
New
£108.00
£55.00
1
43430-60040
1
Toyota Land Cruiser Model HDJ100 1998 > 2004- OEM Front drive shaft complete. New, in original packaging
New
£780.00
£570.00
PCC000321
1
Land Rover Freelander 1 Radiator
New
£220.00
£100.00
PCC108460
2
Land Rover Range Rover P38 Radiator for a Diesel with Manual Transmission
New
£300.00
£120.00
PQS101480
391
Range Rover P38 V8 Petrol Alternator Belt
New
£9.25
£3.50
TVB000090
17
Land Rover Frelander 1 IRD to Viscous coupling Propellor Shaft (front Section)
New
£300.00
£120.00
GRR114
1
Mono Car Roof Rack for Range Rover P38
New
£540.00
£150.00
5
Cooper Discoverer ARE 315/75R16 - Part Worn
used
£150.00
£20.00
5
General Grabber TR 235/85 R16 (Original Defender Size) Part Warn
Used
£120.00
£20.00
1
Sica Evasion Tyre 205/70R15
New
£10.00
MWC6754
18
Discovery 1 RH Front Wing
New
£167.00
£72.00
GAF910
2
Freelander 1 Side Protection Bars (Stainless Steel)
New
£440.00
£216.00
GDL011
5
L E Perei Driving Lamp HID Kit
New
£730.00
£360.00
SPF1721K
81
Toyota Land Cruiser 71-80 & 105 Series or Nissan Patrol Y60/Y61 Castor Correction Kit Brand: Dobinsons
New
£106.00
£36.00
1
Safety Devices Access ladder
New
£20.00
GAL044
1
Defender 110 upto 2007 Rear Mesh Dog Guard (Fitting kit included but may not all be there)
new
£236.00
£65.00
12
Various Safety Devices Roll Cage bars
£10.00
3
Various Safety Devices Roll Cage Conenctors
New/used
£5.00
1
Rhino Rack Bars
New
£25.00
1
Front Runner Discovery Track bars
New
£25.00
1
Modified Kaymar Spare wheel carries for Toyota 80 Series
Used
£15.00
2
Bench Seats (Unsure of Make or Vehicle)
Used
£20.00
1
Pair Of Forwards facing seats (suspect Toyota 80 series load area)
Used
£30.00
JEA007
1
Allmakes 4x4 Jeep Cherokee 1993-1996 Wrap Around Nudge Bar
New
£75.00
1
Draw System Suspect for a Defender load Area
New/ Used
£50.00
TF883
1
Terrafirma NAS Rear Step Tow Bar (no electrics Supplied)
New
£435.00
£250.00
STC8651
1
Land Rover Defender 110/130 upto WA VIN Rear X-Member with extensions. Slightly Damaged but usable
New
£180.00
£70.00
LR008383
1
Land Rover Defender 2007> Raised Air Intake (Maybe slightly scracthed/all Fittings MAY NOT be present)
New
£460.00
£175.00
1-DIS/S11
1
Mantec Raised Air Intake for Discovery 2 (Maybe slightly scracthed/all Fittings MAY NOT be present)
New
£360.00
£150.00
TF822
1
Terrafirma Southdown Snorkel for Range Rover Classic (Maybe slightly scracthed/all Fittings MAY NOT be present)
New
£315.00
£135.00
4-WGR/07
1
Mantec Defender 2007> Rear Window Guards(Maybe slightly scracthed/all Fittings MAY NOT be present)
New
£215.00
£130.00
FBKIT01-07/B
1
Land Rover Defender 2007> Mammouth Bonnet Chequer Plate (Bent)
New
£314.00
£75.00
SLKIT01-CSW/B
2
Land Rover Defender 110 County Station Wagon Mammouth Sill Chequer Plate in Black (Maybe slightly scracthed/all Fittings MAY NOT be present)
New
£85.00
£30.00
SLKIT01-CVAN/B
5
Land Rover Defender 110 Hard Top/ Pick Up Mammouth Chequar Plate Side Sills in Black(Maybe slightly scracthed/all Fittings MAY NOT be present)
New
£85.00
£30.00
SLKIT01-90/b
1
Land Rover Defender 90 Mammouth Chequar Plate Side Sills in Black
New
£75.00
£20.00
EXPECTED SALES Price does not mean we are not open to OFFERS, so why not ask, worst case we say no!
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about 0.3 MM in oxfordshire.
There was quite a bit more than that under the Cooling Towers of Didcot!
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I had a little play drive in the snow this morning
Leaving the house at 6am does have it's benefits, by 8am it had all gone. Is it just me or is there something special about being the first to leave tracks in fresh, virgin snow?!! -
What about Grabber TR's, standard fit by Land Rover for some years?
When I bought my 90 it came with these fitted, and I have to say I've never known a tyre wear so slowly! I believe they have a reputation for lasting a long, long time. For me, they behaved really well on tarmac, were quiet and apparently they give better fuel economy than a 'proper' AT tyre.
They were also pretty good in the snow we've had the last few winters, although the few times they've seen wet, slippy clay they didn't cope very well at all. But with their tread pattern/class of tyre I suppose you can't expect too much from them in those kind of conditions.
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IIRC with the longlife exhausts the quality depends greatly with which depot you use.
However I believe there is a thread in the Tech Achive (or somehwere) by Hybrid from Hell, about stainless exhausts on V8s... and I don't think he was too pleased with his experience of Longlife! I may be wrong though so possibly worth a look.
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Loads of info here:
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=40
Second hand you get a lot of bang for your buck, but then there's the risk factor mentioned by yalan. There used to be some pretty good deals on 150 litre ABAC compressors on Ebay, maybe worth a look if you decide to go for a new one.
HTH
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Buy some spacers and it should cut out the tyre touching the arm
Good thinking... However, turning the stops out a little is the cheaper option!
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Thanks, that's perfect.
You're welcome - nice to give on this forum and not receive for a change!!!
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I quite like the white wheels on the 90 and the 'inward stance' Retro spoke of. For me, it looks more like a 'proper' Land Rover now. Therefore I think I can live with a little bit less lock
Cheers
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Ahhh yes makes sense - the wheels I took off weren't Land rover items.
Thanks for that. Case closed
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Anyone know much about wheels?
The front tyres on my 90 were getting low so I was planning on replacing them before winter, however a set of practically new Grabber AT2s on decent steel 'Land Rover wheels' (don't know what they're referred to as - white rims) came up on a well known auction site. The best bit was that they were only a few miles from my house. The guy accepted my offer and they were mine.
Anyhow, I got round to putting them on this week and straight away I noticed the wheels didn't seem to stick out as much although they're the same size as the tyres/wheels I removed.
First drive and on full lock there was a horrible vibration! Which scared the carp out of me as I'd just rebuilt both swivels!Upon closer inspection though, the source of the vibration is the tyres are rubbing against the radius arms.
I'll just adjust the steering stops I thought - simples.
I assume the reason for this is that the offest of these new wheels is different from the previous set? If so, is this something that could have an adverse effect? Or should I just adjust the stops and shut the hell up?
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Ok, I was out in the wind today (Christ wasn't/isn't it windy today!). I whipped the TRE out the offending hub and rotated the swivel housing, there was practically no resistance! So out went a few shims and all is good!
I did think at the time think that this particular top pin was very tight in the railko bush - it was incredibly difficult to turn and remove during initial set up. So, I assume that influenced the reading on the scale and once it had bedded in some-what, things went a little slack.
Thanks to everyone who replied
Spearos
Can I be rude in asking what the parts cost you.
All the parts came in at about £150, that was for all seals and gaskets, the top pin/bush and bottom pin/bearing. Also included a few replacement bolts and genuine hub caps.
Leaving the house at 6am does have it's benefits, by 8am it had all gone. Is it just me or is there something special about being the first to leave tracks in fresh, virgin snow?!! 
Heater Fault
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yes I definitely have the 'vertical' variety!
I guess the resistor is in that box of tricks (item 4 in diagram) and I wouldn't want or know how to take that apart. Would a new one still be available I wonder? Even if it were it looks like it'd be over £200.
So, fixing it or replacing it do not appear to be options. So does anyone know if I could fit the Rover 100 fan speed control and ballast resister - I understand it is a popular mod with 90s/110s with the convential heating/ventilation?