[Help!]

Thanks for you replies guys.

Landmannnn, funny you should mention Redex - I chucked some in yesterday...

I will take a look at the carb, check timing and vacumn advance on Sunday as I'm working all day Saturday

Vehicle does this from cold and once it's reached operating temperature. I did think it might be a loose distributor throwing the timing out but it was ok temporarily after fitting the new pump - I will check to make sure anyway.

Cheers

[Help!]

Ok I've dug out the boxes my ignition parts came in (I stored the old bits in them) and I can confirm that the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads and coil are Lucas items - they all came in the distinct green lucas boxes. All purchased from land-rover-parts-shop.com. The plugs however are NGK BP6ES. It's cold and wet out there and I'm short on time so I haven't physically checked the items yet.

Is it possible for there to be a fault with the ignition that makes it run ok on LPG but not on petrol, surely if there was an ignition fault it would run poorly on LPG as well - I always understood LPG is more reliant on a big fat spark?

[Help!]

Haha, ok Fridge...

[Help!]

Thanks again guys.

I will confirm what ignition parts I have, hopefully tonight.

Fridge, what would that be???

[Help!]

Ok I get the picture. I know you said don't say it but I replaced the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads and coil with Lucas items (which I believe are original equipment?), the plugs are NGK BP6ES, all replaced in June and have done 3000 miles max. Does the fact that it runs perfectly ok on LPG not suggest that the ignition is working ok?

Dash pot oil was checked and topped up prior to purchasing the fuel pump.

I apologise if I'm being thick, but I'm trying to get things straight in my head as I want to learn as much as I can. I do appreciate any help you give me.

Mark

[Help!]

Thanks Fridge.

so, the problem is only when under load - is there anybody who knows their onions when it comes to carbs? What could be causing fuelling problems when under load?

[Help!]

I just don't get it, the engine 'revs' fine when stationary and when I put the clutch down whilst driving - what could possibly cause it to only 'stutter' when in gear and driving?

The only thing I can think of is that there is a problem with one carb, but if there is a problem with one of the carbs would it rev fine when stationary/with clutch down whilst in motion????

[Help!]

Dizzy Cap, Rotor Arm, Leads, Plugs and Coil all replaced with genuine items in June.

It runs perfectly fine on LPG, so I'm assuming it's got to be a problem with the fuel system?

Before buying the new pump I checked the fuel filter wasn't blocked and buggered the fuel filter housing. While waiting for a new housing I ran the car with a small peice of rubber pipe in place of the filter housing.

Even though it was only for a few days I kept plenty of fuel in the tank to prevent carp from the bottom being sucked up, now I'm wondering if maybe there's a little bit carp somewhere causing a blockage???

What do you guys think???

[Help!]

Anybody got any ideas what it could be/what I could check?

I'm thnking about just giving it to the local garage, but would prefer to have a go myself - would save me a few pounds too!

Cheers,

Mark

[Help!]

Hi guys, our help is needed again!

Ok, the original problem returned a few weeks ago, after cleaning up the contacts on the top of the pump all was well until yesterday...

Because that helped I guessed it was a bad connection somewhere so today I took the pump out and cleaned the connections under the pump base - no good. I also traced the earth wire back to the engine bay and cleaned the body earth point - still no good. I'm a bit of a muppet when it comes to electronics so now I'm stuck, one other thing I did do is measure the voltage at the pump - which was 12.3v, which I assume is ok?

Any ideas what to check next? Or anything else that may be causing this problem?

Many thanks in advance,

a desperate, disappointed, Mildly miffed off Mark!!!

[Dampers]

Ok, done the dampers at the weekend - seems a lot better now. Took me ages to do, those bottom bolts on the dampers are a right pain! I cleaned, treated and painted the chassis mounts and springs, copper greased all bolts and sprayed it all with waxoyl once finished - my MOT man will be impressed!

Thanks for all the people who took the time to reply, although I'm disappointed no-one mentioned the bottom spring cups might need replacing mine were well rusty, one even had two tiny holes in, so will need replacing - anotherjob to do soon! Should be a lot easier to do again though, now I've done it once and all the bolts should come undone a lot easier!

Cheers!

[Help!]

Got round to doing the fuel filter housing and pump from Nige at the weekend - cars seems fine now. Big thank you to all that posted replies and to Nige for supplying the pump quickly.

Before I posted on here, I was planning on taking the carbs off for inspection so this forum has saved me a lot of grief! Super stuff!

[Help!]

Cheers Oakesy, that's exactly what I did - got me where I needed to be today and hopefully tomorrow! Also rules out this problem being down to a blocked filter as of course it was running with no filter!

The problem is still there so looks like the pump is the culprit (hopefully!).

Nige, I'll pm you about your pump.

Is there anything else I'll need? I'm guessing a seal/gasket at the very least???

Mark

[Dampers]

Ok, so, I've decided I'm going to go with the 'standard' Armstrong dampers. I plan to order them ready for this coming weekend, probably from Paddocks with some new Turret Rings and rear Bump-stops. Is there anything else I should be looking to buy that may 'break' whilst changed the dampers? I have some lovely galvanised turrets to go on too.

I've cleaned all the threads/bolts/nuts and given them a good dowsing of WD-40, the front dampers look a bit more involved to change than the rears. Any tips/tricks to aid removal/disassembly??

Many thanks,

Mark

[Help!]

Haha, I have many of those places too

Just been out to do the fuel filter, looked simple enough, got the old one off, changed filter and o rings. Went to put it back together, started the bolt off by hand, went to tighten with ratchet and it just keep spinning! Took it off and it looksl ike the thread is f*cked!! Why is it a simple job always turns into a b*stard???

Looks like I wont be able to get a new housing until Monday at the earliest - unless I come up with a cunning bodge, the 90 will be stranded all weekend!!!

Will keep you updated Nige as to whether I need the pump...

[Help!]

Thanks for your offer Nige. I'll see if the filter makes any difference tomorrow, if not I'll be in touch.

Mark

[Help!]

Thanks Graham.

If it's the fuel pump it would make sense, as I see little reason why it would be the float jamming as I always switch the fuel to Petrol before turning the engine off, so while the vehicle's not in use the float is bathed in petrol.

I suppose I could try a new fuel filter as I have a new one somewhere and it hasn't been changed since I've had the 90 - about a year (naughty, I know!).

Anyone fitted a pump other than the standard LR one?

Cheers.

[Help!]

I have a 1987 90 with a factory fitted V8 running SU carbs, it also has a single point LPG conversion. Yesterday, it decided to play up. It idles fine and runs not too bad with part throttle but as soon as you put your foot down it sputters and struggles to gain speed. I think it may well be a petrol starvation problem as it runs fine on LPG.

I understand the float in the carb can be the source of many a problem, especially when the car has been converted to LPG. I have an idea that my problem may be to do with float pivot partially seizing, the needle valve not opening fully leading to fuel starvation? BUT it revs clean and freely when the car is stationary?

Any help much appreciated,

Mark

[Dampers]

Thanks for your input Litch. I've had the 90 just over a year and I'm perfectly happy with the handling so I think I'll go with the Armstrongs. I suppose if I decide to upgrade at a later date, the Armstrongs won't of been such a waste of money at £10 a corner.

As for the springs, I have no intention of increasing the ride height... yet And there are no signs of any sagging - it looks level enough, I guess if it was really bad you wouldn't fail to notice. I'll probably do as you suggest though and measure the hub to arch, just to check.

Thanks again,

Mark

[Dampers]

Ok, so MOT is due soon on my 90, the bottom rear damper bushes are fecked so I'm going to replace all four dampers - can't be arsed to fanny around with fitting new bushes, plus I don't know how old the current dampers are.

Question is what dampers to buy, I do mainly road miles with occasional greenlaning. What's best - Tuff Back, De Carbon, Pro Comp Monroe or other??? I understand gas charged dampers are the way to go...

Also, would changing the springs be worth doing??? Dumb question maybe, sorry if it is...

[Door Repair]

Thanks Chris.

I did come across Simonites before, but soon forgot about them as I have seen the skins elsewhere for less. What I failed to notice is they say every item is available mail order. Looks like it would be cheaper to pay the extra through these guys though, than it would be taking the V8 somewhere miles away to pick up some skins.

Mark

[Door Repair]

Thanks Mo

Any ideas how much a skin from the dealers would be? I've found the prices vary quite a bit from independants...

[Door Repair]

Hi alll,

Soon, I am planning on repairing my front doors as they are both badly rotten. I plan to remove the skin, replace the bottom panel with a repair section and fit a new skin along with new hinges, bolts etc.

How differcult is it to fit a new door skin? The current ones have bad alloy corrosion.

Where's the best place to get new skins from should I go down that road? Most places I've found that sell them, do not do delivery and are miles from me for collection (I'm in south Oxfordshire). Anyone know of a supplier in my region?

Mark

[Blower not working correctly]

Hi, it's one like the first pic and no I don't want air con back.

Would there be much work involved if I wanted to change to the more common type (in pic 2)??

Thanks

[Blower not working correctly]

Id put a meter on the fan wire and see if its getting a supply then start tracing wire back. (after you check fuse) etc.

Is your vehicle one with AC at high level (ie no place to put radio in middle).

IMHO unless capped and stored properly the compressor might have dried seals.

Looks like the compressor might be useless then!

I'm sorry i don't understand what you mean when you say high level?

Thanks,

Mark