Spearos
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Posts posted by Spearos
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Are you talking about the lower shock bushes Western?
I didn't make it clear - it's the top bushes I'm talking about. Although an element of doubt has crept in my mind now so I really should check the paperwork but I'm sure it was the upper bushes...
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Good Morning!
After the 90's MOT I was advised that the top rear shock bushes were starting to wear, so replacement of these is on the 'to do' list.
However, I can't seem to find any information on the procedure for this other than it being simple job. so I was hoping someone could 'educate' me?
How do you guys remove the old ones? Can they be a pain to remove?
Some of the pictures of the replacement kits I've seen have 3 pieces, and some have just the 1 piece - what should a kit consist of and how are the piece(s) fitted to the eye of the shock?
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I hate English weather; while other countries get the interesting extremes of hot long summers and feet of snow at winter, we get year round drearyness, only that its a bit colder in winter and less cold in summer...
Come on! We do have something that not many others have... The almost total unpredictability of our weather! It's the reason the weather is such a talked about topic - wouldn't it be boring getting the same weather year after year and having nothing to moan about or hope for?!
There's always a positive side of looking at things!
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I'm the same, I've taken a greater interest in the weather. But all I seem to find out is you can't forecast far into the future
Very true, I keep a close eye on the weather for my fishing and it seems they can only forecast the next 12 hours with any accuracy.
Lol I too am the same
Welcome to weather geeks anonymous...... 'Hi, I have a weather obsession, it all started when I bought a Land Rover..... can you help me?'
Good one!
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I think the guy off that program 'Will it Snow' is James Madden of exactaweather.com He's been in the news a lot recently regarding his winter forecast - cold like last December but more prolonged. He even says he wouldn't be surprised if records are broken!
Of course a lot of other forecasters are saying it'll be a mild one so I guess we'll see... But... It appears Mr Madden could be correct as his summer forecast was pretty accurate and he did predict the snow in October, which is actually quite impressive when you take into account NI haven't had snow before bonfire night for many, many years.
Also there are the 'old wives tales' such as; the more berries/fruit on trees, the more severe the winter will be - if this is true then looking at the small tree at the bottom of my garden it's going to be a cold one. The branches are almost vertical because of the weight! I have also heard that the later the trees lose their leaves, the colder it will be. And then there is the saying mild November means a cold December...
I've got a lot of stick at work for my new found interest in the weather, but hopefully someone here will read this and actually find it as interesting as I have!
It's funny, since I got myself the Land Rover, the winter's have suddenly got quite a bit harsher and for some (sick?) reason I hope this will continue!
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just as a word of warning.
on the lower right hand side of the water pump there are 3 long bolts about 4" long.i think that 2 are the same length and one is a little bit shorter.my advice(and that of a V8 builder) is to change all 3 bolts to the same length to that of the shorter one.
as they go through the pump/timing cover and into the block.
if you get it wrong,and put the wrong bolt in a hole it will go through the back of the captive thread in the block and screw itself through and into the bore(you can guess how i found that out
).result is knackered block.just my input anyway.
Ouch! Expensive mistake! Thank you for sharing that with me.
However I have a plan to prevent this! Bit of cardboard with the shape of the pump drawn on it, some holes pierced where the bolts go and the bolts pushed through one by one as I remove them (should they all come out in one piece). It's an old trick, that many people use and should prevent any mishaps
Good for keeping pushrods in order too. -
Actually it would be 13 bolts (see line with the number 14 at the start) but the non aircon models have a different water pump casting according to that diagram so it may be that 3 less bolts are needed.
Well spotted! I have read that the castings are all the same, it's just the nose/pulley hub that is different from one pump to another. Maybe you're right and this is dud information... Think I'm going to have to ring a few suppliers and see what they say.
I could be wrong, it's just my interpretation of the diagram....
Of course, but you've made a lot more sense out of the diagram than I've managed to! And I appreciate your help - thank you.
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I see what you did there, maybe it is 16 bolts I need - I'll take a look later. I got my 15 from google images of a V8 pump, but maybe I missed one. Big thank you to you, Cwazy Wabbit, very kind of you to have a look for me
However, what I don't get is if I was to use your 'method' of reading the diagram for a V8 with just PAS and no air con, then I would only get 12 bolts! Stupid Land Rover parts diagram!
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http://www.retroanac...V8_p262-367.pdf page 311, note the bolts that are applicable to your engine & if it has Power steering &/or air cond fitted, if no PAS or AC then note the bolts for that version.
good you found a altenative supply.
Thank you once again Western for your help
Please don't think I'm ungrateful or that I'm being 'funny' with you but I still can't work it out! If I follow the remarks 'air con' on the attachment it would mean I only order 4 bolts, and as I said before I'm pretty sure I need 15.
Another thing, not all part numbers on the diagram have reference numbers on the left, or remarks on the right. I've studied the diagram and tried to understand it but just can't work out what 15 bolts I need!! What 15 bolts would you go for?
Thanks again, really appreciate you taking the time to help me.
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Nevermind Peter!
Update - I have found somewhere that sells stainless bolt kits for the pump so I think I may go down that road, being stainless they won't rust and I guess are less likely to seize in the future. However, are there any downsides of stainless that I should be aware of?
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all the bolts & washer in the list, the quantity for each item is given on the right of the list.
so read across --
item number - part number- quantity = your parts required.
If I did that I'd end up with about 50 bolts! Looking at the pump, it takes 15 bolts and I believe all the pump casings are the same whether you have or haven't got PAS, air con etc - it's just the pulley hub arrangement that is different to suit.
Anyhow I cannot for the life of me work out which 15 bolts I need from the info!
However I have found water pump bolt kits for sale... in stainless. So I may go for one of them.
Thanks for your help though Western
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Soon, I hope to replace my noisy waterpump http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72158
However, as the 90 is my daily driver I would like to have replacement bolts handy just in case. Trouble is I'm cannot work out which bolts I need!
My 90 is a 3.5 running SUs, has PAS and originally had air con.
Please help!.... anyone!
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Think i'm going to just order all new bolts, if there aren't one or two in particular that tend to seize.
Ok, a little 'challenge' for everyone, from the attachment below what bolts do I need? I'm finding it very difficult to understand it!! note: My 90 had Aircon fitted originally.
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I was thinking about changing it anyway, as I do not know the age of the pump.
However, the 90 is my daily driver so I am a little worried that I may have trouble with seized bolts. I need the car for work, but I'm sure plenty of plus gas, and some gentle persuasion will get them out all in one piece, however I might order replacement bolts with the new pump and get some left hand drills just in case
Can anyone tell me if there are any 'usual suspects' when it comes to V8 water pump bolts seizing? Also, am i right in thinking the lower pump bolts go through the timing cover, so should those snap would it mean removing timing cover to remove any broken bolt(s)?
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Title says it all really, there is a squeal coming from the front of my engine that has slowly but steadily got worse.
I'm pretty sure it's not any of the belts and I have used 'the screw driver stethoscope technique' to listen to the alternator, PAS pump and water pump. The PAS pump and alternator sound ok, well ok compared to the water pump which sounds like there's a little angry man in there... using a large hammer!
So I'm guessing the water pump bearings have had enough, however does anyone have any suggestions/tips on how I can confirm this? Only thing I can think of is to slip the belt(s) off and have a feel of the bearings.
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Don't leave your keys in your bumper...
http://www.oxfordmail.co.uk/news/yourtown/oxford/9274255.Reward_for_recovery_of_Land_Rover/
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Cheers Nige,
Just to confirm, are you saying the gap should be 0.6 mm?
Yes he was. Look here:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8002
HTH
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And again?
As funny as it is, it's not good for the image of 4x4s and their users. I'm sure the 'hiker/walking' type of person will not at all be impressed, and it's this kind of person once alienated that contribute to the closure of greenlanes, byways etc. The Ridgeway here in Oxfordshire being a prime example...
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The underbonnet heat of the V8 may be helping
I might be ok then!
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Not tried it but if it's really bad would something like this help perhaps:
HTH
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Got myself a Powerfile a few months back, great tool. I would definitely recommend it.
Also another vote for Toolstation, huge selection and reasonable prices. The free next day delivery on orders over £10 is great too.
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I tried something similar many years ago, on my series 3, and found that in winter the pipes on the wipers would freeze due to wind chill. I then fitted a heat exchanger on the supply pipe but the heat couldn't stop the pipe freezing even though the pipework under the bonnet was hot. I reverted back to normal jets.
Maybe if you can heat the pipes and the jet it would be fine.
Something to think about - thanks for that
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Just ordered some of these - wanted to do this for a while but have had trouble sourcing parts for reasonable money (Maybe I'm just tight).
Could be useful for anyone else wishing to do the same...
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).result is knackered block.
Good for keeping pushrods in order too.
Rear Shock Bushes
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks for the replies guys.
I didn't originally say top bushes, I did edit it - forget to mention that! The main reason I asked this in the first place is because the replacement bushes I've seen appear to not have an outer sleeve and are a perculiar shape, like two cones fitted together top to top. Like this...
Good point, however as far as i know the dampers aren't leaking and there isn't a lot of 'bounce' at the rear so I assume they're ok. Probably worth taking a closer look though, to be sure