alfredenewman
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Posts posted by alfredenewman
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cheers chaps all sorted got one happy bunny ,thanks for the imfo and thanks to simon for supplying the controller,wher else would i get that service.
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i got mine from the usa saved about £ioo per unit and didnt get asked for any import tax.
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just trying to suck nsome brains out there. i am at the moment trying to repair a small golf buggy to give to a friends disabled brother to enable him to go off the tarmac.the buggy has had an electricl fry up , the motor is still good ive had it running both ways , the hand controll[ a varaible resistor and reverse button apear to be ok.but the motor controller made by curtis is defo us.curtis want an arm and leg for a new one and ther price makes it a no go .does any one have a 12 to 40 volt dc 110 amp or close motor contoller or any good advice cheers merrick
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on petrol engines we used to do them with the head on by taking a plug out and putting a lenght of nylon string down the plug hole then winding the engine up to tdc where the string compresses against the valvethen using a lever type valve spring compresor remove collet and spring slip a new stem seal on and replace spring and collet .it did not take long i dont know how much clearance you have between your valve and piston if its not alot you might get away withremoving cam and just tdcing the relevent piston good luck its worth a shot
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silly me i meant castor not camber,but i still think on the front end with lifted susp you have a choice dodgy on road stearing or good steering and shorter prop life using castor corrected radius arms. on the rearif the cranked arms are made to incline the nose up towards the trans box all well and good .the bushes def will last longer with corrected arms .
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correct me if im wrong but i always have thought that cranked trailing arms and camber corection radius arms return the nose of the diff back to horizontal therefore putting more angle and hence strain on the prop.
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tiger seal the proverbial poo on a blanket
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i missed meet out
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cheers guys will order some now ,will buy you a cup of rosie the next time we barry ta merrick
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any body know the thread size for seat belt retaining bolts they i believe standard world wide, they are not 10m course but could be fine 10 or 125 pitch but i have been told they are all 7/16 unf i dont have any nuts to try ,any idea i nead nylocks for obviouse reasons ta merrick
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Hey,
I am currently trying to prepare for my MOT at the end of the month.
Where can I get a front wing indicator bulb and Lens (the one on the side)
Also does it matter whether my rear wash and wipe works?
Thanks Pete
i thought a rear wash wipe was called a bidet
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ive done more or less what three sheds sugests except using 2 bateries [12 volt] wired in parallel making them effectivly one big battery the two alternators are different and are fed power direct from ign switch via a fuze through 2 astra wing reapeater lamps mounted on the dash ,all seems to work well with no probs so far.
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bear in mind the hazards workn with ign off indicators dont so you have 2 suplies
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Not to mention windmilling itself into the radiator if something goes wrong
The ABS thing you'd need to discuss not only with the insurance co but the MOT man, if he expects an ABS light then you may need to retain it, I'm not sure what'd happen if you retained a light for MOT purposes without the actual ABS to go with it.
ABS sensors aren't complex, most of them are the same style of pickup as crank sensors and I'd wager there are a few cheap alternatives out there - Ford VR sensors are cheap and plentiful.
im not condoning it buts a common dodge in the motor trade for a car with abs probs to wire the abs light upn with oil presure light solving the dash prob but nothing else.
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it goes in hot at the top cools as it goes through and down the rad and out via the bottom hose i think you are air locked somewere carry on trying different bleeding methods good luck
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i have these and 2"lift springs and shocks on my old disco and will put them on my new 1 too when it stops being so cold outside!! there will be people on here who say they are rubbish for whatever reason but i have been using them for over a year with a 2" lift and they have done the job... no problems and reccomend them... p.s made mine myself and it cost about £25 for the box section and nuts and bolts etc......
i second that very good value
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Hey Chaps and Chapesses,
Thanks for your replies.... Rich seems to think that the SVA shouldn't be too much of a problem due to all the rally cars he deals with and the various chasis mods on them.... however time will no doubt tell. If push comes to shove we can always trailer it to events etc.
The link to that site "Orgasmic Farmer" eeerrrmmm ;-) is really helpfull thanks and will have a good peruse of that when i have more time..... however it is now time to go and collect the fella from the pub and cook dinner ad watch the Mexico WRC xxx
Have a great weekend all and thank you again
Hugs
Moogue (aka) flic & Ric
moogue if you ever get fed up with your fella post the news on here and watch your pm box i wont be alone with my application
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i dont think the theiving scum bags need any lessons from us with regards knicking our pride and joy,they do it a lot faster than you can imgine the methods get passed from one scumbag to the other extra locks bolts and chains etc slows them up a bit and moves them on to easier targets.
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Hi all,
i have been reading up on here and have been convinced that a 2.8 isuzu is the way forward in repowering Range rover which is currently powered by a Perkins 4.182 3.0 turbo (pretty bad blowby and lots of general niggles that im not happy with!).
I am going to have a look at an engine for sale tomorrow and i have had a chat with the guy whos selling it and he's told me that it is the Cambelt driven engine and not the gear driven import engine! The engine has a proper conversion kit for the rr lt77 and comes with a lt77!
My question is, do the isuzu's have a nice sealed in timing cover like the 200 and 300tdi? My only concern is that they have just a plastic cover type affair, which of course be prone to water ingress and grit etc will destroy the belt and idlers etc.
I know theres a fair few Isuzu gurus on here, so please enlighten me!
it must be an early 2.8 its almost indestructable but good for 200k plus i had one in an isuzu owned it for 10 years and did loads of miles in it a good basic diesel lump -
the early 110 cvs are 23 spline cvs your shafts are 32 spline[if they fit your rr cvs] so i think its back to square one
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Short answer is yes if you do it right.
Part of the carb setup is balancing the airflow, which with SU's is controlled by a rod between the carbs. If you disconnect the connecting rod at a joint you won't need to play with the settings.
If you have the older SU's with the float chamber on the side then life is much easier.
you beat me to the post your 110% corect most of the later sus have the chamber underneath so its a different kettle of piranas
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its a bit of time since i worked on su,s but you shouldnt have to remove the carb just the fuel line and the top screws remove the top clean up valve and replace .
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because they are alot stronger no problem coverting yours to discs search the forum for diesel jims step by step instructions a doddle and doesent cost a fortunethere's a reason land rover had to put salisbury axles in the back of long wheelbase models instead of rover ones.i'll be damned if i know why they went back to them again though....
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you can also end up in a spiral of problems if the rad is externaly blocked by mud the hot air is not conducted to the viscous coupling the fan wont engage properly engine over heats h/gasket blows and on and onwithout realising the original problem good luck .
Building a Mini 'Pressure' Washer
in International Forum
Posted
ihave in the past used a fire extinguisher the h2o type you can remove the top fill up with water and re charge using some one elses conpressor.also fly screen mesh in front of the rad works well you can carry a few if you want taking up no space.if you havent got an electric rad fan you can turn off when in deep mud the belt driven fan will still drag alot of craaaaaap into the rad core.also the heater flat out really helps.