gbmoto

Thanks All, will persevere, at least I'm not the only one!

Just to round this out, my 3.9 seems to have the front of a 3.5, once I worked that out a bog stock 3.5 pump worked. Needed to do some creative stuff on the welded original to get it off tho' All back to standard and can even fit a viscous fan if I want now. Also did the valley gasket, injector seals and changed to the heater hoses over the rocker cover rather than under the inlet manaifold. Just one strange thing...... how do you get the thermostat to stay in place whilst bolting on the manifold? Just kept slipping out, even tried to stick it in with a few dobs of silicone but no luck. I was sure it was right at one stage but it slipped whilst tighnening resulting in a major leak. Just to test everything it's together without a thermostat at the mo. I guess there is a clever technique??........other than tipping the landy on it's tail.......😆

Afternoon all, sorry for the long delay, hols and other life things got in the way of Land Rovers 😲 Many thanks for all your responses. In the end I put on my brave pants and replaced the PRV, obviously had to then do a bleed/renew brake fluid. The result....... a firm pedal with very little travel and no draggy back brakes. My wife has just had a knee replacement so I couldn't take the Landy out for a long run but brakes were good on a short run and back at home the drive slopes slightly and it happily rolled backwards. So longer run next but cautiously optimistic..... Next off with the inlet manifold to cure a water leak...... 🙄 Hopefully won't need to pester you all on that one.

Thanks all, sorry for the tardy reply as ever! The bit I am suspicious of is this Land Rover Defender 90 Brake Compensator Valve - 94 onwards - OEM - NTC8836 Doesn't appear to have any electrical connections. Sorry, as ever I probably didn't explain myself properly 🙄

Ah ok, prob not that then!, ta Western.

Well, tweaked the servo rod and now have a very slight bind at the rear ( only really noticeable when reversing slowly ) but still too much pedal travel. Wheel bearings all seem fine, braided hoses look all ok, bills for rear calipers replaced recently by previous owner ( possibly this has been an ongoing issue...hmmm ) Looks like the proportioning valve has been in place for a long time, I am starting to point an accusing finger at this. Or am I unfairly maligning it?? I'll probably get friendly mechanic to change that so maybe master cylinder at the same time since it will need a full bleed anyway? Does this sound the right next move?

Thanks Snagger, it already has braided hoses thankfully. Hopefully will do the blu tak this weekend. With any luck will come back brimming with stories of success 😃

Thanks Mike, pretty sure I am OK there but will check them out.

Thanks Western, it's good to know I have the correct mc I'll try the measuring plan, so far has been guesswork!

Well finally sorted this, a big alloy plate bolted to the engine lift bolts. Runs a lot more pleasantly...and quieter. I know, lots of wiring to tidy 😄

Afternoon all, me again. Sorry to be asking what is probably another obvious question again, have had plenty of landys but generally standard, have even done a chassis up rebuild, engine swops etc But this 3.9 efi 90 is a bit of a mixture, it's now running nicely with a standard air filter arrangement replacing a k&n, interestingly the tickover had been tweaked by tightening the throttle cable 😨 Replaced the manifold gaskets, made a lot more difficult by the tubular headers..... I sooo like standard! So now on to the brakes, they are not awful, passed MOT etc but there is way too much pedal travel. So far have put on a new servo as the original looked dodgy and have fiddled with the pushrod, if I adjust it for a sensible pedal then I get binding after a couple of miles. Soooo thinking it may be worth a master cylinder swop and bleed etc. Now the 90 has 24 spline disco axles, discs front and back..... all new and fangled to me! Have bills for recent replacement callipers so hoping that excludes those. The current master cylinder looks nothing like my previous coil landys, which were all drums on the back, but braked well with a good pedal. Is this one correct? On my others it was much bigger and alloy Or should I also look at the proportion valve thingy. Piccys attached. Normally I would just find the pn for an mc of the correct year and order it, but would like a bit of advice, I'm sure the combo of parts I have isn't too unusual. Many thanks.

Well, it's sorted. Unpicked some of the harness..... hmm that will be work in progress!! Remade oil sender wire etc and routed them away from the headers. But still nothing, looked for an inertia switch but no, checked all fuses relays etc and all seemed fine. Sat in the driving seat and had a check as to what was working...... the horn. hazards and starter..... that was pretty much it, and no dash lights...... hmmm again.... So dash was pretty apart and had had several good looks around with a torch where I had been messing but all good......sooo out with the gauges to see in a bit further.....as I was getting a bit suspicious of the ignition switch.....oooooo... a big white wire has fallen off..... plug in and all back in business, perplexing as I had been no where near there, must have been where a cable had been pulled through..... but all working...yayyyyyyyyyy But now the radiator has sprung a leak..... and also still need to work out what water pump..... at least I can do both at the same time. Oh and during the storm had a ridge tile come off, take 2 tiles off on the way down to then launch themselves at the Landy leaving some fairish dents in the bonnet and wing and taking a bit out of one of the light trims..... adds character I guess! I should do an ongoing thing about the Landy, it is being a bit of a challenge!, but it does make me smile when I drive it.

Thanks Chaps. I am amazed I have managed this with a Radio Install..... usually fairly happy with electrickery and wiring. I have made a complete loom for a series.... much simpler admittedly, but my recent efi experience was years ago with my daughters Classic Min MPi..... which was quite simple tbh. Currently have the dash apart just to make sure I didn't move anything. I think first job will be to replace the transmitter wire, I'm thinking it has probably crumbled inside, I want to see the oil light! Hopefully will get a bit of time today....... I will return!

Really sorry, should have explained more, it is a 3.9 efi. all pretty much as it came from a Range Rover.

Morning all, me again with my challenging 3.9 90 I was always confident around Landy's but this is being an education! Generally built well but as with most specials can be a little eccentric. Soooo yesterday I installed a radio, centre of the dash using the landy cabling. Radio works fine. Also added an oil pressure gauge as I had that part of the dash apart. Just ran the cable and connected live and earth..... the sender for another day...... but just had a look at the locations by the oil filter. I touched the wire to the transmitter thingy and it fell apart....... baked from being close to the tubular headers I guess. Anyway, added a new connector and thought nothing more. Just putting tools away and thought I had best fire it up........ no power to the fuel pump! Checked all fuses and fine. All the wiring has been put back to as before. ( Wireing is pretty much custom with blade fuses etc, well done but a bit of a struggle working out what fuse does what! ) Have also lost indicators, but hazards are fine..... this could be the hazard switch although bizarre it happening at the same time. I have no oil light...... I think this could be significant and related to the transmitter....... I have heard this can cut power to the fuel pump as a prevention of blow ups?? Soooo what has happened, do I just need to run another cable to the transmitter, can I by pass it totally.... just for testing? Family things today so back on it tomorrow........ Suggestions/confirmation appreciated.

Thanks Bowie, that's really handy, at least the gaskets' look the same so that's a plus and the different flanges are obvious now.

Well, that didn't fit the water pump, the flange on the 3.9 is too big to fit within this pulley, just like the 3.5 I have........ grrrrrr So next plan is compare the 3.5 and 3.9 pumps, if it is just the flange that's different then I need a 3.5 pump Jeez thi is painful 🤪

Well a small update, bought a standard 3.9 waterpump, looks like that will fit fine. Alas the pulley from the 3.5 was way different and no way would it fit. So bought a standard 3.9 pulley but alas it needs about 1 cm extra back spacing. As these belt runs are governed by the crank pulley options are a bit limited. Now thinking about a dual pulley top pulley...if you see what I mean........

Thanks Escape, yes I agree, I think it is an '88 3.9 but with earlier front end, the heater pipe routing is also wrong for an 88. The layout of alternator and pas pump are identical to a fully dressed 3.5 from an early 110 that I have. Currently it is just running an electric fan but I may well add the 3.5 mechanical fan when all done.

Thanks all, I have ordered a STC483 which is the "correct" pump for the engine. But yes, the pulleys seem to be a total nightmare and not easy to find, I'm hoping the 3.5 one will be a start at least, maybe with a spacer to adjust the distance. Will update when sorted.

Ta All, yes I'm wondering if the snout bit is longer for a dual belt pulley to run the AC maybe?? Thinking of going for this https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.uk/water-pump-v8-stc483.html and then using the pulley from the 3.5. The engine number denotes 1988 but of course have no idea of the spec of the Range Rover it came from and it has been "tweaked" a bit since.

Thanks Bowie, I think I may need to remove the pump with pulley still mounted. I have a fully dressed 3.5 in the garage ( as you do 🙄 ) and measuring that the pully is about 5mm closer to the pump so easy to knock up a spacer for the 3.9. Anyone know the difference between an aircon pump and non aircon?

Hi All Doing a few pipe changes on the V8 and decided it would be good to swop the pump at the same time. But didn't realise how many different ones there are! It's an early 3.9 from a Range Rover but has been very messed with so could be anything really, have excluded a few but there is still a choice. Also a bit perplexed as to how to get this one off?? So any ideas on which one it is and how to remove the pulley please? ( Looks to be welded on 😬 ) I guess removal and replacement of the pulley is the important bit for belt alignment.

Hi All I have a 3.9 efi from a Range Rover in a 90. Just noticed a small dribble of coolant from the back of the engine along the valley gasket. It appears that my 3.9 has the heater hose arrangement for the 3.5, as in the corrosion prone pipes under the inlet manifold. I would like to swop to the 3.9 arrangement where they go above one of the rocker covers. Other than getting the pipes I guess I need to block the hole on the bottom of the manifold ( can I get a blanking plug?) , or get a later manifold?? Any other issues anyone can forsee??

All done. used this afternoon and the fan kicked in exactly when expected, many thanks Fridge. TBH whilst I was doing it and actually used my few brain cells it made perfect sense! Good idea on the switched live but I always use a battery cut out to should be good from that point of view.