gbmoto

Thanks All, will persevere, at least I'm not the only one!

Just to round this out, my 3.9 seems to have the front of a 3.5, once I worked that out a bog stock 3.5 pump worked. Needed to do some creative stuff on the welded original to get it off tho' All back to standard and can even fit a viscous fan if I want now. Also did the valley gasket, injector seals and changed to the heater hoses over the rocker cover rather than under the inlet manaifold. Just one strange thing...... how do you get the thermostat to stay in place whilst bolting on the manifold? Just kept slipping out, even tried to stick it in with a few dobs of silicone but no luck. I was sure it was right at one stage but it slipped whilst tighnening resulting in a major leak. Just to test everything it's together without a thermostat at the mo. I guess there is a clever technique??........other than tipping the landy on it's tail.......😆

Afternoon all, sorry for the long delay, hols and other life things got in the way of Land Rovers 😲 Many thanks for all your responses. In the end I put on my brave pants and replaced the PRV, obviously had to then do a bleed/renew brake fluid. The result....... a firm pedal with very little travel and no draggy back brakes. My wife has just had a knee replacement so I couldn't take the Landy out for a long run but brakes were good on a short run and back at home the drive slopes slightly and it happily rolled backwards. So longer run next but cautiously optimistic..... Next off with the inlet manifold to cure a water leak...... 🙄 Hopefully won't need to pester you all on that one.

Thanks all, sorry for the tardy reply as ever! The bit I am suspicious of is this Land Rover Defender 90 Brake Compensator Valve - 94 onwards - OEM - NTC8836 Doesn't appear to have any electrical connections. Sorry, as ever I probably didn't explain myself properly 🙄

Ah ok, prob not that then!, ta Western.

Well, tweaked the servo rod and now have a very slight bind at the rear ( only really noticeable when reversing slowly ) but still too much pedal travel. Wheel bearings all seem fine, braided hoses look all ok, bills for rear calipers replaced recently by previous owner ( possibly this has been an ongoing issue...hmmm ) Looks like the proportioning valve has been in place for a long time, I am starting to point an accusing finger at this. Or am I unfairly maligning it?? I'll probably get friendly mechanic to change that so maybe master cylinder at the same time since it will need a full bleed anyway? Does this sound the right next move?

Thanks Snagger, it already has braided hoses thankfully. Hopefully will do the blu tak this weekend. With any luck will come back brimming with stories of success 😃

Thanks Mike, pretty sure I am OK there but will check them out.

Thanks Western, it's good to know I have the correct mc I'll try the measuring plan, so far has been guesswork!

Well finally sorted this, a big alloy plate bolted to the engine lift bolts. Runs a lot more pleasantly...and quieter. I know, lots of wiring to tidy 😄

Afternoon all, me again. Sorry to be asking what is probably another obvious question again, have had plenty of landys but generally standard, have even done a chassis up rebuild, engine swops etc But this 3.9 efi 90 is a bit of a mixture, it's now running nicely with a standard air filter arrangement replacing a k&n, interestingly the tickover had been tweaked by tightening the throttle cable 😨 Replaced the manifold gaskets, made a lot more difficult by the tubular headers..... I sooo like standard! So now on to the brakes, they are not awful, passed MOT etc but there is way too much pedal travel. So far have put on a new servo as the original looked dodgy and have fiddled with the pushrod, if I adjust it for a sensible pedal then I get binding after a couple of miles. Soooo thinking it may be worth a master cylinder swop and bleed etc. Now the 90 has 24 spline disco axles, discs front and back..... all new and fangled to me! Have bills for recent replacement callipers so hoping that excludes those. The current master cylinder looks nothing like my previous coil landys, which were all drums on the back, but braked well with a good pedal. Is this one correct? On my others it was much bigger and alloy Or should I also look at the proportion valve thingy. Piccys attached. Normally I would just find the pn for an mc of the correct year and order it, but would like a bit of advice, I'm sure the combo of parts I have isn't too unusual. Many thanks.

Well, it's sorted. Unpicked some of the harness..... hmm that will be work in progress!! Remade oil sender wire etc and routed them away from the headers. But still nothing, looked for an inertia switch but no, checked all fuses relays etc and all seemed fine. Sat in the driving seat and had a check as to what was working...... the horn. hazards and starter..... that was pretty much it, and no dash lights...... hmmm again.... So dash was pretty apart and had had several good looks around with a torch where I had been messing but all good......sooo out with the gauges to see in a bit further.....as I was getting a bit suspicious of the ignition switch.....oooooo... a big white wire has fallen off..... plug in and all back in business, perplexing as I had been no where near there, must have been where a cable had been pulled through..... but all working...yayyyyyyyyyy But now the radiator has sprung a leak..... and also still need to work out what water pump..... at least I can do both at the same time. Oh and during the storm had a ridge tile come off, take 2 tiles off on the way down to then launch themselves at the Landy leaving some fairish dents in the bonnet and wing and taking a bit out of one of the light trims..... adds character I guess! I should do an ongoing thing about the Landy, it is being a bit of a challenge!, but it does make me smile when I drive it.

Thanks Chaps. I am amazed I have managed this with a Radio Install..... usually fairly happy with electrickery and wiring. I have made a complete loom for a series.... much simpler admittedly, but my recent efi experience was years ago with my daughters Classic Min MPi..... which was quite simple tbh. Currently have the dash apart just to make sure I didn't move anything. I think first job will be to replace the transmitter wire, I'm thinking it has probably crumbled inside, I want to see the oil light! Hopefully will get a bit of time today....... I will return!

Really sorry, should have explained more, it is a 3.9 efi. all pretty much as it came from a Range Rover.

Morning all, me again with my challenging 3.9 90 I was always confident around Landy's but this is being an education! Generally built well but as with most specials can be a little eccentric. Soooo yesterday I installed a radio, centre of the dash using the landy cabling. Radio works fine. Also added an oil pressure gauge as I had that part of the dash apart. Just ran the cable and connected live and earth..... the sender for another day...... but just had a look at the locations by the oil filter. I touched the wire to the transmitter thingy and it fell apart....... baked from being close to the tubular headers I guess. Anyway, added a new connector and thought nothing more. Just putting tools away and thought I had best fire it up........ no power to the fuel pump! Checked all fuses and fine. All the wiring has been put back to as before. ( Wireing is pretty much custom with blade fuses etc, well done but a bit of a struggle working out what fuse does what! ) Have also lost indicators, but hazards are fine..... this could be the hazard switch although bizarre it happening at the same time. I have no oil light...... I think this could be significant and related to the transmitter....... I have heard this can cut power to the fuel pump as a prevention of blow ups?? Soooo what has happened, do I just need to run another cable to the transmitter, can I by pass it totally.... just for testing? Family things today so back on it tomorrow........ Suggestions/confirmation appreciated.