[VAT on Light Goods Vehicles]

Nic,

Not quite sure I understand what you are asking.

I am VAT registered and when I buy a qualifying vehicle such as a Defender Hard Top (VAN) I claim the VAT back. When I sell that vehicle I charge VAT on the sale.

If I was not VAT registered I would not be able to claim the VAT back on the vehicle when purchased and would not charge VAT on it when I sell it.

Does this clear anything up?

MINESAPINT

[Galvanising]

Just come across an interesting and pertinent web site but I do not know how to put a link to it.

It is Adrian Redmonds Land Rover Pages and he is talking about his dissapointment about his 1999 110 with pictures. Very similar problems to mine.

MINESAPINT

[Galvanising]

Maybe the deterioration of my vehicle in 7 years is my fault/maybe its not! I was previously unaware of the extreme vunerability of the parts that have let me down, chassis, doors, some bodywork & body cappings. I realise now I could have done something to the doors & chassis but feel also the vehicle could have been built better. I do not see what I could have done about the body cappings & the corrosion they have transmitted to the bodywork.

I reckon there was a golden age for Land Rovers and instead of operating a policy of continual improvement, Land Rover have chosen to cut corners to the detriment of the newer vehicles. I have vowed never to buy another new Land Rover (although my wife has other ideas) but am quite sure I will own one for the rest of my life. It is just a question of deciding how to achieve this. Unfortunately I do not have the facilities or expertees to rebuild one but did have a quote to have a 109 rebuilt onto a galv chassis which was £12K+.

In the meantime will have to keep this one going until decisions are made.

MINESAPINT

[Galvanising]

Litch,

Thanks for advice. It seems I am guilty of not looking after the vehicle correctly. I have bought 7 new 109's/110's over the last 25 years but have never kept one as long as this one which will be 8 this year. I cannot ever remember getting one MOT'd before. I do wash the vehicle regularly but have never paid any particular attention to the chassis. The rear crossmember has not got to the stage of MOT fail but it is terribly rusty in spite of me painting and undersealing it a couple of years ago. Unfortunately I cannot turn the clock back and waxoyl it retrospectively. Additionally I have been caught out with the doors and the body cappings on this vehicle. It needs 3 new doors which had I waxoyled internally when new would probably have gone on for many more years. It also needs new body cappings which are running in rust!

Currently to put the vehicle back into an acceptable condition I will not expect to get much change out of £2K.

My plan is to remove my bumper, body cappings, hinges, steering guard, various brackets, tow bar etc and send the lot to the galvaniser with the new rear crossmember. All would be galvanised at the galvanisers minimum charge of £60 + VAT (for 100Kg). Having said that my wife heard me talking to the galvniser on the phone today and said "why don't you just go and buy a new Land Rover". Cos all the problems will start all over again, but apparently not if look after it better!

MINESAPINT

[leak proofing]

Been there, done that.

Found the solution.

OILSKINS!

Or don't venture out when its raining.

MINESAPINT

[Galvanising]

Thanks Scotian, Did ring Strathearn Engineering and they are unable to supply the crossmember unpainted. They are painted when they buy them. They did advise however that I do not need to worry about sending a painted one to be galvanised as the acid removes all the paint anyway. They made the example that they refurbish old cast iron gates that have 100 years worth of paint of all types on them including hammerite then having completed the repair send the gate to be galvanised and all the old paint is no match for the hydrochliric acid.

MINESAPINT

[Waxoyling door pillars internally]

In an earlier thread Miserableolgit suggested to gain access to the internals of the door pillar I should remove 1 hinge screw top & bottom and insert fine wand through hole to apply Waxoyl. Additionally through drain hole in bottom of pillar which I think I have located under the vehicle about 6mm. Good advice I am sure.

Question is, is the door pillar hollow box section or similar?

If I remove screw from door hinge is the nut captive?

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Part numbers]

Thanks Western,

Mine are item 12 on the drawing and I understand from an independent Land Rover specialist they are a constant source of trouble. I assume from the drawing the hinge, item 4 on the drawing will also fit so will probably replace with these instead.

MINESAPINT

[Part numbers]

Western,

Ref the screen hinge. Is yours actually a hinge or a solid block of alloy?

Mine is the latter as clearly there is no need for it to be a hinge. I just described it as a hinge thing because that is what they used to be in this location. The official description is BRACKET WINDSCREEN MUC 7911 & MUC 7912 which incidentally are a different price to each other, weird or what!

Maybe instead of buying replacement alloy blocks or having something made up I could fit some original galvanised hinges if they will fit.

Do you think this is feasible?

MINESAPINT

[Part numbers]

Thanks Paintman,

My intention is to order from a main dealer but I am replacing parts on my vehicle that have let me down. I am trying to avoid replacing items on a like for like basis as the new parts will disintegrate just the same as the old ones have done. For example I have established the full length body cappings (rusty on my vehicle) have been upgraded by Land Rover and the new replacement part WILL BE galvanised. Other replacement parts however are like for like replacements already proven as far as I am concerned to be unsatisfactory. It may be that I should order a Series part number providing it will fit and if I can establish it is fit for purpose. Another example is the alloy hinge type things below the windscreen. They seem to be acting like anodes and are just dissapearing to a white powder. I am currently chewing with having some fabricated in Stainless or mild then galvanising them. I just do not see the point in putting some new alloy ones on and waiting for the paint to start blistering although Land Rover are obviously quite happy with this concept!

I have already asked at a dealership but find the contributors to this forum are generally more aware than in the dealerships own parts department.

MINESAPINT

[Part numbers]

I am trying to accumulate a list of all the parts needed to refurbish my 110 Td5 Hard Top X reg VIN 1A605575.

I went to a Land Rover dealer the other day and he gave me some part numbers for some rear cappings. In a bid to check he had supplied the correct part numbers and to attempt to establish if galvanised versions were available I posted here yesterday and Alan & Western duly obliged, thank you both.

Strangely there are similarities between the dealer supplied part numbers and the ones Western supplied but they are not the same.

Dealer's numbers: AQL 710020

AQL 710030

Western's numbers: ALQ 710021

ALQ 710031

Any ideas?

Obviously when I order the parts I want to ensure they are the correct ones.

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Screwfix catalogue 88]

I am wondering if these are suitable for painting a Land Rover. I have virtually no experience of spraying paint but hope to be able to learn FAST!

How much paint required to paint a 110 and how much would it cost?

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Spare wheel on bonnet.]

I find having my spare wheel mounted on the rear door inconvenient when hitching a trailer and the door is suffering also. I used to have a Land Rover with the wheel on the bonnet but have not seen any around recently. I wonder if it is still allowed.

If so will my standard Defender bonnet take the weight. I don't want to end up with both the rear door and the bonnet cream crackered!

Additionally does anyone know who supply the mounting kits?

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Part number please]

Thanks WESTERN.

MINESAPINT

[Door Liner]

YEP, Its front door liners I have seen but sorry can't remember where. There is some discussion about them on another forum.

MINESAPINT

[Part number please]

Alan,

You are close. I do have the sketch you refer to, a Land Rover dealer printed it for me the other day.

The part no's I am wanting are the NO 7's on the sketch.

I could also do with the part numbers for the no 8's.

I also would like to know if they come already galvanised.

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Galvanising]

Obviously I need to source a rear crossmember already galvanised or prior to it being painted.

Any ideas?

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Galvanising]

I am considering purchasing a rear crossmember for my 110 and having it galvanised prior to having it fitted. I assume they are not available already galvanised. The question is as the new crossmember will be painted what preparation will be needed prior to galvanising. I know the galvanisers dip it in acid & wonder if this is enough to remove the paint?

Additionally I am intending to galvanise all the door hinges and assume they are cast iron and wonder if it is possible to galvanise cast iron?

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Part number please]

I have managed to establish that galvanised replacement body cappings are available from Land Rover and do have the part numbers. The body cappings run from behind the front doors then take a 90 degree turn at the rear corners and end up at the side of the rear door. Additionally alongside the rear door there is an additional separate capping about 3 x 4 inches with a corner cut off which are clearly visible on Series vehicles and are galvanised. I need to know the part no of these items and if they are galvanised.

Thanks

MINESAPINT

[Door Liner]

I have definitely seen chequerplate door linings for sale recently.

Can't remember where or exactly what model they were for but have DEFINITELY seen them on the net, so you know where to start!

Glad to be of service.

MINESAPINT

[Waxoly in east midlands]

Exactly my thoughts miserableoldgit. It will be impossible to access the most vunerable parts with the needlegun. Just a stressful pointless operation.

Incidentally the quote for £250 was to waxoyl the internal parts of the chassis and underseal all the externals. It was suggested the chassis was in good condition and did not require the full Waxoyl treatment.

MINESAPINT

[Buying a Defender]

So its back to body cappings.

Thanks RED90 for the info. All sounds a bit of a lottery whether a particular vehicle enjoys the luxury of being fitted with galv body cappings or not. What is important to me is to establish if Puma 110's are indeed fitted with galv cappings????????? as the salesperson stated the other day.

On a daily basis I am using galvanised staples, fencing wire & stock fencing which is all galvanised and costs only a few pounds but when Land Rover produce a vehicle that is going to sell for more than £20,000 they do not see fit to galvanise various critical components, many of which have a history of causing problems to us Land Rover owners/fanatics/anoracks!

If anyone can throw light on the galv cappings on Pumas question I would be pleased to hear from you. Information I have to date suggests 110's do have them but Red 90's does not. Sounds questionable to me.

MINESAPINT

[Waxoly in east midlands]

I have just had 3 quotes from different garages for treating my 110 (chassis only). £350, £250 and £130.

At £350 the whole chassis is needle gunned.

At £130 the chassis is steam cleaned then allowed to dry/driven around etc then Waxoyld inside & out. The job takes 3 days most of it required for drying.

The chap charging £130 comes highly recommended by another Land Rover mechanic so I am going there.

Only problem is no courtesy vehicle but what can you expect.

MINESAPINT

[Rather odd Part number request..]

For a part that is going to cost around £2 with £7 postage why not try something truly radical and go and buy one from a main dealer. The part will cost around £2 and there will be no carriage charge.

I have been looking for various parts for my Defender recently and have contacted loads of the aftermarket Land Rover dealers and none of them can supply every part I need, some parts are simply unavailable except from Land Rover. Many of them have not replied to my requests for information. I have not noticed any difference in prices quoted for the parts when compared to a main dealer and carriage will be charged on most orders. Additionally you will probably have to take a risk by giving your credit card details.

Just my opinion.

MINESAPINT

[td5 diesel in engine]

I did post a couple of weeks ago on a subject that seems closely related to this thread.

I was talking to a Independant Land Rover dealer who advised the next thing I will be look forward to is needing a new cylinder head for my Td5. He advised the problem manifests itself at around 60,000 miles, I have done 57,000 miles. He also advised that he thought there should have been a recall on the affected vehicles and that he thought a modification was made to later engines.

I was hoping to establish at what stage the modification was made and whether my vehicle is likely to be affected and whether I need to start saving up!

MINESAPINT