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MINESAPINT

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Posts posted by MINESAPINT

    Buying a Defender

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Mark,

    I am not generally knowlegable ref Land Rovers, I have owned 7 over the last 25 years and can only pass on my experiences. Others on this forum are much more knowlegable and work on them daily, I hope someone will be along soon to make things clear.

    As far as I am aware Land Rover stopped fitting Galv cappings in the 80's. Probably all 200's & 300's do not have galv cappings unless they have been swapped or galvanised by the owners. The cappings on my Td5 are a right mess. I am unaware if any of the Td5's were fitted with galv cappings. I am also unaware if all the new Puma's have galv cappings but was told at a dealership the other day the 110 I was looking at did have. I have vowed never to buy another new Land Rover, that is I suppose until some of the issues I have with the build quality have been addressed. However I cannot see me driving anything other than a 110 Hard Top (just suits my purpose) so as my vehicle continues to deteriorate before my eyes I have a dilemma. There are various routes I can take. Have a 109/110 rebuilt onto galv chassis. Put my defender in for the £3,000 facelift. Buy a new/ newish Puma providing I can positively establish massive improvements have been made to build quality. OR get used to driving a tatty looking vehicle.

    Land Rover owners are very loyal and they seem to get some perverse satisfaction out of knowing come the weekend there will be a multitude of jobs at great expense to do to the "Land Rover" to keep it on the road. In some threads I have noted people pointing out their dissatisfaction as they bought a Toyota or Nissan and never need to do anything to them! Personally I would prefer a higher build quality & better choice of materials which would keep the vehicle performing & looking good without the need for all the maintainance.

    MINESAPINT

    Buying a Defender

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I have no idea which engine you should go for, I have owned 200, 300 and now have a 2000 Td5. I just turn the key and they have always started.

    What I do feel I can help with is the chassis & bodywork. I feel qualified to advise as mine currently needs about £3,000 spending on it to correct bodywork & chassis problems.

    You must get the chassis Waxoyled every couple of years or so.

    The rear crossmembers become very shabby very quickly. I am looking to have mine changed at the moment to a galvanised one.

    The doors suffer very badly and mine needs all 3 replacing at a cost of £1000ish. I now realise what I should have done is Waxoyled the door inners when the vehicle was new.

    Many of the screw & bolt heads are of unsuitable material. I have replaced mine with stainless steel.

    The bumper on mine needs replacing as it is rusty.

    The body is suffering generally which as far as I understand is as a result of galvanic corrosion.

    The body cappings are well rusty. The series vehicles were fitted with galvanised cappings then Land Rover stopped galvanising them which has caused most Defender owners massive grief. I was informed the new 110's now have galvanised cappings again and the new replacement cappings available from Land Rover are now galvanised. I feel there should have been a recall regarding these cappings but instead they charge £300 for a new pair and that is only for the parts!

    I understand from 2002 the rear door is uprated to take the weight of the spare wheel but on mine it has fallen to pieces and is catching the floor underneath.

    I am so dissapointed with my vehicle I have considered having a series vehicle rebuilt onto a galvanised chassis with all parts galvanised but have not yet had the courage to take the plunge.

    I do feel you can slow down corrosion by using Waxoyl on chassis, body & doors but the body cappings rust from inside as well so this is not so simple.

    If I think of any other problems I will post again.

    MINESAPINT

    Rear door

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Thanks guys,

    I wondered if there was a way of adjusting the door I was unaware of. I also wondered in a moment of inspiration someone had come up with a "cunning plan"!

    I will be having a go when it warms up and stops raining!

    I do agree about the spare wheel and have considered a dedicated spare wheel carrier but I imaging they are a pain to use. Must be like having to open 2 doors to get into the vehicle. Having said that I can't say I have ever seen one.

    MINESAPINT

    Aux Lighting

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    2 genuine Land Rover spots on an "A" bar & a good work light on the rear for reversing.

    But a word of advice. If a bulb goes in one of the spots I am stuffed because the lights are held together with mild steel screws which are totally rusted up and impossible to undo. Only chance I will have if I can drill them out.

    So whatever you get check they are put together with stainless screws. Give the genuine Land Rover lights a miss! That is unless they have improved the quality.

    MINESAPINT

    Tyre sizes

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Thanks Lars & GRover.

    I am sure there must be a standard and at this stage I am guessing it is something to do with the carcass. Guessing again: That is why remoulds end up oversize because more rubber has to be added (to a particular size of carcass to make it durable enough). Hence it is oversize.

    Please note I don't mind if I am talking B*((*$ks I happen to have an enquiring mind and hope someone will be able to quote chapter & verse.

    Thanks

    MINESAPINT

    Td5 110 Ht

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I require some replacement parts to refurbish my Defender but am unable to locate the parts on Paddocks, Simmonites, Craddocks, Devon 4x4 web sites. Does anyone know of a full parts list or can this only be accessed at a main dealer?

    Thanks

    MINESAPINT

    Tyre sizes

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I bet you thought this would be what do all the numbers refer to? Wrong! I asked that a couple of months ago.

    My 235 85 R16's on a tyre calculator indicate a diameter of 80.59cm and circumference of 253.18cm. Are the sizes based on a new tyre and includes the tread or are they the carcass size and any tread would add extra diameter & circumference or other?

    Additionally does anyone know what tread depth new BFG All terrain 235 85 R16's would have.

    Thanks

    MINESAPINT

    2007 MY Defender

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    As I said earlier my vehicle was replaced when the dealer failed to satisfy requirements ref its list of 23 faults. However this was not straightforward and an additional charge was payable. It was 7 years ago but if my memory serves me well Land Rover accepted the vehicle was not up to their usual high standard! and issued me with a voucher for £2,500 to be used to trade my new Land Rover in for another new land rover. The catch was the voucher was only redeemable at the dealer who sold the vehicle in the first place. I think they offered me a trade in price for my new faulty Land Rover of £4,000 less than I had paid a few weeks previously (well it was a heap of s*$£) which meant I had to find another £1,500 to have a vehicle on the road in the condition it should have been in in the first place.

    As I also said earlier I have bought 7 new Land Rovers over the last 25 yrs but enough is enough.

    Sorry if I seemed to go off on one earlier but Journeyman mentioned the white furry/powdery substance appearing on his new vehicle. This IS normal for Land Rovers but does that mean it is acceptable?????????. I failed to make it clear in my earlier posting but the white furry stuff is directly related to the door problems. Dissimilar metals in contact causing electrolysis which in turn causes oxidisation/corrosion. The white fuzzy stuff is the equivalent of rust if the metal that is oxidising happened to be steel. The more noble metal in this case probably steel is eating away at the less noble metal probably zinc or aluminium. This process is assisted by the prescence of water particularly salty water ie in winter and the fact that the vehicle body & chassis are used to return the electrical current to the battery a practice not acceptable on a boat where we have what is known as an insulated return.

    MINESAPINT

    2007 MY Defender

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Must make it clear I am no expert.

    If the new door is manufactured bare metal to bare metal as I am led to believe is usually the case it is only a matter of time before the whole process starts over again. Say 3-4 years before the blistering starts to appear (externally) at the door bottoms. Apparently you can fit new skins to doors and during this process you would have the opportunity to install the all important barrier between the aluminium & steel. What encourages the galvanic corrosion (electrolysis) is when water and in particular salty water comes between the aluminium & steel so any attempt to keep the water out should pay dividends. I think it would be a good idea to strip the linings from the new doors & give the frames & skins a good sorting with Waxoil.

    I am sure someone has more knowledge & experience than I do of this problem & I look forward to reading someone elses 2 penneth in due course.

    It would be unreasonable for me/us to expect our vehicles to last indefinately but I feel this problem is/was knowingly built into the vehicles.

    Incidentally my interest/knowledge of electrolysis is as a result of owning a steel fishing boat. Below the waterline it is necessary to fit zinc sacrificial anodes which in fact protects the hull & prop. The anodes don't last long though & need replacing every year or 2.

    MINESAPINT

    2007 MY Defender

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I have bought 7 brand new 109's / 110's over the last 25 years and can say with substantial degree of confidence the problems I have experienced with the last 3 (most recent) with regard to the sort of problem mentioned in this thread are much more common. The vehicle I have now is in fact a replacement for one that was delivered with 23 faults I listed, from paint problems, leaks to a missing drivers mirror!. After 3 visits to the dealership when they failed to rectify the faults I decided enough was enough and a new vehicle was presented, at additional cost I might add!. The dealer ensured the replacement was of marketable quality before I took delivery. I have vowed never to buy another new Land Rover because of my more recent experiences. I always feel when you go to a dealership with a complaint it is a them and us situation particularly if you are a lowly defender owner and have not splashed out £70K on the latest Range Rover.

    Additionally as a defender ages other problems manifest themselves which would not be so if more care was taken when the vehicles were built. I refer particularly to galvanic corrosion although I am certainly no expert on the subject I do have a basic understanding. I can only refer to my vehicle and what I have been told about others, I do not have up to date information about current construction methods at Land Rover. The problems I am about to describe may have been overcome with the new models!!!!!

    My vehicle (2001 defender) has come out in a rash of blisters around the door bottoms, side body cappings, rear lateral & vertical body cappings as well as other places. I am advised by a reputable Land Rover refurbisher the problem is as a result of the vehicles being built with a combination of steel & aluminium in many cases bolted or riveted together with no attempt being made to provide a barrier between the 2 different metals. He advises the vehicles are assembled bare metal to bare metal then painted afterwards which I find difficult to comprehend. This invites galvanism which leads to the corrosion to which I refer. The solution to this problem is expensive and requires the whole vehicle body dismantling and all body cappings galvanising, complete set of new door skins and when re assembled great care taken to provide barriers between the different metals so the same does not happen again. The vehicle then needs a full respray. I am advised to have the vehicle resprayed without attending to the underlying problems is a complete waste of money as problems return within weeks.

    MINESAPINT

    Wheel spacers

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    My insurance is in fact with NFU and I have just renewed for £259 fully comp protected incl legal & breakdown. (110Ht Td5 2001).

    I did try Adrian Flux a couple of years ago and they were talking silly money. £500 or so with a few mods.

    Fairly complicated business really matching speedo to actual (GPS) speed. The difference will be changing all the time as the tyres wear down.

    Thanks to all for replies and help.

    MINESAPINT

    Wheel spacers

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Mo, thanks for advice, gratefully received.

    The reason why I planned to change my 235 85 16's for 265 75 16's was to fill the arches and keep the speedo correct. One of the issues raised by my insurers, the 265's on a tyre calculator gives one quarter of 1% difference which I hope they will be happy with.

    255 85 16's sound attractive but might need to adjust speedo.

    Is this possible?

    Is it a big or expensive job?

    MINESAPINT

    Wheel spacers

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    If I can determine or if anyone else can determine for me what would be a suitable offset for my vehicle I would only go ahead and make a purchase after consultation with my insurance co. My last attempt to "BLING UP" my 110 was thwarted by my insurance co, not because they would not insure the vehicle in its new guise but as a good yorkshireman I was reluctant to pay the 40% loading they asked for. This would have been an extra £120 pa.

    When I completed the application form for the insurance I was asked "Is the vehicle modified"? Enquiring further as to what would class as a modification the reply was "anything that has been done to the vehicle which would alter it from its original specification". For example if it has been serviced and non genuine parts have been fitted during the service, if the vehicle did not have a radio and one has been fitted or the existing radio upgraded, extra lights, chequerplate etc. In fact I have added a radio and some chequerplate which I declared and these items were accepted.

    It seems some people are of the opinion only modifications which affect the performance of the vehicle are relevant for insurance purposes. This is how it was explained to me:

    Anything that:

    Improves performance, alters the manufacturers specification, makes the vehicle more nickable, makes the vehicle more likely to be broken in to ie for a fancy sound system, makes the vehicle more attractive to vandalism, makes the vehicle more likely to cause injury to its occupants or other road or pavement users and apparently fitting a non genuine fuel filter!

    Occasionally I have been encouraged to contact specialist 4x4/Land Rover insurers who apparently have a more sympathetic view with regard to modifications but I have found they charge about double what I pay now!

    There is no doubt insurers like bog standard vehicles exactly as per the manufacturer's specification. This way they are sure of what they are insuring. Fair enough I suppose.

    MINESAPINT

    Wheel spacers

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    This is where you lose me. I understand what offset is but would not have a clue what offset to order. It is an expensive hobby using trial & error!

    So 110 Td5 Hard Top Year 2001 currently fitted with deep dish alloys - no idea what offset these are?

    If I was ordering new rims I would really like to go back to 15 inch so I can get more rubber.

    Suggestions most welcome.

    Thanks

    MINESAPINT

    Wheel spacers

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I agree, I also think spacers are a bodge. Chunky tyres are also part of the package. Currently I have BFG all terrain 235 85 16 fitted onto deep dish alloys by Land Rover. The plan is to keep the alloys and fit Insa Turbo Special Track 265 75 16 as well as the spacers. This is the recommendation.

    Many years ago I had a White 109/110 Ht 200Tdi reg J ??? BWU (if anyone knows where it ended up) which had I think 10 x 15 inch chrome modulars with some 33 12.5 15 General Grabber tyres. These did not need any spacers and filled the wheel arches perfectly without causing problems and provided a very comfortable ride. Insurance company also happy!

    Do you think spacers are unnecessary and the larger tyres will be enough???

    Open to suggestions.

    Thanks

    MINESAPINT

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