carl hurst
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Posts posted by carl hurst
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It would be some form of ls. A gen IV would be nice, price dependant.
you know its the way forward
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How are you getting on with the axle conversion,
In my opinion I would bin the 80 rear and get a D70 or a GM14 bolt, the 80 is way to heavy and locker choice is limited, get hubs that will take a LR disk and re bracket to take LR callipers, this will save a load of weight and you can fit LR stud pattern rims,
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Go LS or LsX and you have tons of choice on drive train,
I have gone manual with a Muncie SM465 mated to a NP203 'doubler' to a NP205, This set up allows me to use Muncie TG series PTO units for a rear mounted mechanical pto winch driven off the 205 and a pto unit to drive the hydraulic pump, this is mounted to the 465,
The doubler is not in photos as it is in bits being sorted.
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Easiest way to do a 14 into a steering axle is to completely re tube it and got hold of a front D70 as the inner 'C' is larger and then you have a option of re splineing the shafts to suite, look for a front of a Dually as it is wider and you will have plenty on the shafts to use, if you cant do the work yourself you can drop it round to me, it can all be done Gordon, you have seen it, even the engine adapter, you have a mill, get one knocked up.
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G, you have seen my set up and it is prety simple with no specialy made addapters, why. Not go NP205 mated to the TH400 then its only a off the shelf adapter to mate to the Rv8, then it will be strong
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I agree - don't take it as a criticism Carl
Better it be too strong than too weak!
Si
No Si, I have not taken it as criticism but while someone has thrown a part I make on here I thought I would say something, maybe overkill on the bolts bit it will never fall off and I like it.
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Out of all the pans I have sold not one has said anything about bolts and no bad words for it, I also do a version that requires no welding to fit to axle so anyone can fit it and this is somthing no one else does.
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The seller used to be a regular poster on here and makes some seriously good (and strong) kit for the UK challenge scene. Some of his engineering work needs to be seen to be appreciated.The seller used to be a regular poster on here and makes some seriously good (and strong) kit for the UK challenge scene. Some of his engineering work needs to be seen to be appreciated.
First person to give me a good answer to how many bolts I shou have used gets a free dif pan then you can tell all how it realy is
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I often think but dont know the answer to,
Could/would an electric powered pump be enough just to get you out of the s*** if you ever lost the engine or main pump for any reason ?
Yes, if the engine blows a electric pump should be ok just to get you out of trouble, some thing like a tipper pump,
Carl.
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Thanks for replies, that is the correct symbol, i will tell him it needs to get pluged in to try to see what it could be,
Carl.
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Does he have an owners manual? Has he ever read it?
He can only read with his bad eye so probably missed that page, will get a photo of symbol so it will make more sense,
Carl.
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A mate has phoned me asking about a warning light, he explains it as the symbol thats on the oil reservoir, behind where power steering fluid goes,
Does this make sense and what is it and how to sort it,
Thanks,
Carl.
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A great way to end your life geting hooked up in a lathe chuck, even a small lathe like the one in link can drag you in,
Carl.
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hi thinking of making some body sliders for a 110 double cab , does any one have any measurments ?
Just measure up the double cab, all the measurements you need are there,
Carl.
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hi,
does anyone think it would be posible to make a 90" , 100" or a 110" wheelbase chassis from scratch ??
Regards Tony
It is possible, but cost comes down to how much you can do your self,if you can draw it all up in cad or similar and weld it up you will save a fair bit, i am on with one for myself that is 114 inch wheel base. all i have done is measured a discovery chassis and modified it to suite my needs, a lot of work and time consuming but will be worth it long term,
Carl.
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I'm looking to find out more information on valves for hydraulic winches, ive had a search and cant really find any information on them, so as there are lots of threads on hydraulic winches and pumps etc i though id start one about valves.
what are people using?
I want to use two cetop valves for front and rear winches and have been told by a supplier that I cant use P to T cetops (open center) with a hydraulic motor with a over center valve fitted?
They are saying I need a a/b to T so the fluid can return quickly....but then I need a un-loader valve (third cetop) and with this I dont think I will be able to use front and rear winches at the same time?
Anyone any thoughs?
Get in touch with saley, he can supply you all the spool and over centre valves you need,
Carl.
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Thanks!
They sell in larger quantities than I want - but I hadn't thought of the bases, so I'll look out for some.
Try these, http://beal.org.uk/electrical-products/cable-tie-accessories/cat_164.html i use them a lot, they have a min order of 15.00 but you can spend that easy,
Carl.
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Out of interest, who on the challenge scene is running red winchs, just to compare them pound for pound in a real competition situation,
Carl.
Take the answer to be none then,
I remember a bitching match a few years back with my winch is better than yours,no real conclusion was made,
In truth, The only top end competition winchs are saley hydraulic winch and gigglepin twin set up,both can be drive assisted with what ever gear box you have, its been done for many seasons, PTO like on bath tub are in a different category so cant be compared against the winchs in question, its all about personal choice, you want a saley winch ring saley, if you want a gigglepin rin them, they will give you all the help and advise on respective winchs,
Carl.
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Booty, I have 150ft of 12mm on my RED Winch.
On the first Saley winch we put 150ft on and it looked lost, would easy take another 150,and that was only on a 12 inch long drum,
Out of interest, who on the challenge scene is running red winchs, just to compare them pound for pound in a real competition situation,
Carl.
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Have you looked any of this type of valve,on p17, standard servo. http://www.sweetmfg.biz/Sweet_Catalog.pdf allows you to keep a mechanical link via a manual steering box and have full hydro,
Carl.
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Brilliant cheers Carl!
Ill get looking round breakers yards!
Both these are for sale, they also have the bit you need to get them to your steering wheel, give us a shout if you dont get sorted,
Carl.
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The code will quite easy to understand,
In the attaced photos,
code OSPC 50 ON, the 50 in it denotes the size it is, and turns of steering wheel lock to lock,
Also same code but with a 40.
These are two basic orbitrol valves, Boothy is runing a 80 orbital vale so it may be worth asking him about what pump and ram set up he has it matced to,
Carl.
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At the moment
Wondered how long it would take for the copy brigade to move in, seems like its the turn of the free spools on various brands to be copied,
Carl.
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I guess they wont hire you one becouse of licence issue, prob best to get wagon hiab set up, i got one my way and he charged me 200.00 to move 4 machines which was done in one trip, must be some one your way that can do same,
Carl.
Weld on replacement diff pans
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
just give me a ring, 07989 457 485 https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201716669533599&set=a.3745698756134.2141162.1086214278&type=1