carl hurst
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Posts posted by carl hurst
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Zim,
It's a lovely photo, very pretty, and in beautiful focus, but being very new to hydraulic systems - I'm overhauling a recently bought, very old Kubota tractor, with loading bucket and backhoe - what parts in your photo should I be appreciating? Some labels and arrows would spare the incogniscenti, such as me, the embarrassment of not knowing what we're looking at!
!Mike
From engine, This is a Dog clutch conected direct to crank and then the pump.
Carl.
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You are more than likely to over rev the pump so it wont last that long, Yes machines run pumps continuous for long hours but they are not trying to nail it up some steep muddy bank on a challenge event,
In my opinion a dog clutch is essential to diss engage drive to pump and a pump draws a fair amount of power from engine so by diss engaging you will have more power when you don't need to use winch,
Carl.
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I spent many hours standing at a Colchester Triumph 2000 as an apprentice - a really nice tool,big enough to do most jobs,they seem to hold their value though as with most decent kit.I'll be looking for one shortly,as soon as my workshop gets its rehash.I was talking to someone the other day who was on about modern inverter type phase converters.Are they big enough to run a 7.5hp motor on single phase ? I know inverters are clever,but that seems like its pushing it a bit.
As for converters you will be surprised what they will run, but it depends on what single phase supply you have,
I run a transwave rotary converter, it is huge and was not cheep (near 2k) but it runs all my machines and the lathe is a harrison M450 with a 12HP motor on it, i also had it modded so it works the welding plant as well, I have a 100 amp single phase supply to the workshop and converter is on a 80amp breaker, it is surprisingly efficient as well, don't burn a big hole in electric bill, When transwave built it for me i had to give them all the info off each machine and they sorted me the unit, it was costly with the electrics on top as well but it has saved in the long run,
Carl.
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Personal choice would be go for a student over a M300, The student has a heavier cast bed than a 300,A master is the same as a student but longer bed and more speeds,
Also depends on what you intend to do, consider the spindle bore in the head because this will limit the size of bar you can get through, a student has approx 35mm through bore and a triumph 2000 has a 50mm but the latter is a larger lathe,
Also look at tooling, go for a D1- Cam Lock chuck fitting as you will have a greater choice for tooling,
Carl.
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No a MM won't but a SALEY will
PM sent
A few pics of said winch.
Alan Kemp, front and rear saley winch,
saley
Barrie Gee and his little tomcat, front and rear saley winch
Rob tunah, mitsimog, front and rear saley winch
Fat Bloke on left, Saley, and me on right, first ever of the 'Saley' Hydraulic 2 speed air free spool fully run through bearings, bomb proof winch.
We made this as there was no good hydraulic winchs on the market, it has now been out there for a while and is more than suitable for the toughest of winch challenge events,
Carl.
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If you keep somewhere between a 26 to 30 cc pump group 2 form you wont be far wrong, if you move up to a group 3 you will stall the engine even in a mildly stuck situation,
gear the pump down to avoid over reving it, a gear pump will stand over reving but wont last for ever doing it, best way to gear down is via a duplex chain and sprocket set up driven from a adapter on the crank pulley, use a dog clutch to disengage drive to pump when not needed,
do a bit of searching on motors as higher speed is less torque so not ideal,
No mater what pump set up you go for or what hydro winch you have you can only speed it up so much, the 2 speed winch's in high speed are only good for approx 1 ton pull in high speed so great for getting rope in fast but not so brill if you are well stuck,
On the other hand if you are stuck in a deep Irish peat bog with a hydro in low speed you can pull yourself and a truck with a burnt out 8274 set up through it with no effort,
if you want out and out speed with a great amount of power go for a gigglepin but if you want unbeatable power go for hydro,
Carl.
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look also at the online auction houses, for example https://www.apexauctions.co.uk/auction/marketplace.htm?category=1&continent=1
you will find lots more and on the net and another scource is auction weekly, you will need to subscribe but it is worth it as nearly every auction is listed,
Carl.
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I have a normal cheapish chop saw from B&Q. Can you convert these to cut metal by changing the blade, or are the metal chop saws a special type?
You may find the blade bore size is different on metal to wood blades and the RPM will probably be faster on a wood saw, personaly dont do it, wood saws are for wood,
Carl.
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Use the thin sliting disc's, about 1mm, can get good results if you take your time,
Carl.
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Sexy.
But I doubt the reserve on it is low though.
but if he dont know what it is then it may be,
Carl.
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Does he have a website or is out the back of a garage type affair?
No website and yes, out of a garage,
Carl.
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I think the input shaft and bell housing may be to long,
Carl.
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Does any one know if there are any issues with putting in a wood burner on a domestic workshop, as in with any smoke and neighbours complaining to local council, was thinking of puting one in,
Carl.
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Is that why you entered the 90 degree challenge or was that just selling your soul for the prize money?
Rob has not got a soul to sell,
Timed sections are good to do, Manby is a good event and it's all against the clock, I will try to do some first before i comment on them,
Carl.
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Depending on the jointing, it will be just as strong with the diagonal as pictured... it will just be in tension and relying on the joints more than if it was the opposite way
I you go to a pro joiners shop to make them it will allways be bottom hinge side to top centre, you could brace both ways to be shure,
Carl.
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If you do make them out of timber like you say you need your diagonal braces to run from bottom hinge side to top centre to stop the top sagging, also it would be better if you could joint the corners with a mortice and tennon type joint to make it very strong, bin the osb and go for T & G match board, more resistant to weater when all treated, try to put a centre rail in so you can get a third hinge in,
Carl.
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here's a couple,
Carl.
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Dont think it was ever passed down the line??? as Dan and i would have gone! Free entry to a very big over sea's event is not to be over looked!
It has been one of the better prizes on offer for a while, shame it never happend,
Carl.
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Daan and anyone else interested – I realise my reply to your post are well out of date, well over a year in fact, but I have only just found this thread about the Tuff Trophy 2009, and in the interest of fairness I feel I ought to set the record straight as this sponsorship prize was never resolved.
The prize of a free entry to the Rainforest Challenge of Malaysia 2009 (RFC) was never taken up by the winners of the Tuff Trophy 2009 - Steve Gittins and Mark Morgan. Fair enough, that was their decision, but as far as I was aware, this prize was never passed on to the 2nd place team of Nick Anderson and Kev Pocock, or the 3rd placed team of Dan Elias and Adrian Turner, and on down the line until a team could accept the prize. Subsequently, the UK did not have a representative in the RFC last year. I could be wrong of course, but when I emailed Paul & Lucy Bass a month before RFC`09 to enquire which team was going, the silence was deafening. All I do know for sure, no team who competed in the Tuff Trophy 2009 competed in Malaysia!
I mention all this now because in my role as the UK Representative of the RFC, I am in the process of seeking a winch challenge event to donate exactly the same prize to for next year – a complimentary entry for the RFC 2011 – so obviously the last thing I want is a repeat situation re-occurring.
Does anyone know anything further on this subject?
From what i remember it was to short notice to get a truck ready and ship it out in time and this applied to most of the competitors aswell plus the time off work people may not be able to get and added expense,
Dont quote me i may be wrong,
Carl.
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hello guys and girls im a complete novice to winches yet i am just about to buy one for my 90 can anyone give me the pros and cons of hydraulic vs electric other than price lol
and i have been offered 2 electric winches off 2 mates who have bout them and never got around to putting them on to there truck one is a ELECTRIC WINCH 12,500lb 12V WINCHMAX and the other is T-MAX WINCH 12,500Ibs OUTBACK any pointers would be much appreciated as i wouldn't know the difference between a cheapy ebay thing to a decent comp winch 
many thanks dazwell24
David boyer's TDS Goldfish range are highley rocomended for the money, dont waste your money on a carp thing that will let you down when you most need it,
Carl.
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Hope you all enjoyed the day, I did as I spent all day in the bog (the one at the bottom of the site not the blue box in the field)
Not as much a adam did.
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or this?
That's prety much what i had in mind, What are they like for flexing tho,that is one thing i was unshure on,
Carl.
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Having been mega bisy with work latley i have not touched my truck for a while but am about to kick off with it again and have been thinking about the chassis,
After spending so much time chopping and changing it that i now think i may have wasted my time as just building a new chassis would be more practical as i need to do so much more work to it that i thought it would be the easy way,
Making a new box type chassis is no prob as i can just laser the sides and weld it all up but i have thought about a tubular type as i can get more clearance this way and it would poss be lighter weight, Has anyone any experience with this type of chassis, obviously i will need to do a bit of working out on it but if it is built strong it should hold up fine,
Carl.
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and i have been offered 2 electric winches off 2 mates who have bout them and never got around to putting them on to there truck one is a ELECTRIC WINCH 12,500lb 12V WINCHMAX and the other is T-MAX WINCH 12,500Ibs OUTBACK any pointers would be much appreciated as i wouldn't know the difference between a cheapy ebay thing to a decent comp winch 
hydraulic pump drive
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
My comments are based on what i have learned from being involved in development and use of hydraulic winchs and pump set ups in various set ups on more than 1 vehicle so all issues i have mentioned are fact based from my own experience,
I also have been involved with them for many seasons of challenge events so have seen them triumph and fail so know there weakness's,
You mention about running a pump at 5K continuous, not a prob if you gear it down so it will never max out on revs, let us know the outcome of your set up after a good work out on a challenge event,
Carl.