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Jon W

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Posts posted by Jon W

  1. 1 hour ago, Nonimouse said:

    If it's anything like the bulk of the 4x4 Responses in the UK, you won't last five minutes. The bulk of them are full of very well meaning individuals, but badly trained, if trained at all. Mixed in to the members are what the blue light services like to call "Beacon Addicts" or 'High Viz Fashionista"

    Join you local SAR as a driver and support crew. Professional, well trained and well run, with the proper insurance for the job

    But as be careful of Mountain Rescue as their training may be highly suspect due to a certain individual who is now training them!

    Completely agree with this, 1 of the reasons I haven’t joined 4x4 response. I a, happy to help out but the high vis brigade and the way they go about things means I won the joining anytime soon 

     

  2. I haven't experience of them but I think the fitted Britpart ones are meant to be quite good on the defender. I had a pair on my discovery which seemed good. 

    Problem with to heavy duty material is you tend to get a bot more sweaty on them .

    Tough covers are another option as mentioned but I haven't actually driven anything with them fitted. But the company I work for has involvement with them so I can ask which covers fit defender seats best if you want

     

    Jon 

  3. I have done what you are planning. Chassis swap would have been easy. Bulkhead a pure faff as i hate wiring and faffy  bits of plastic dash.

    on the engine side is it a disco or defender 200? As think where you want a bracket for the clutch pipe if at all.

    There is a wiring bracket / earth point above the trans tunnel in the middle on the engine side. I removed it before halving the bulkhead. But in hind sight it probably could have stayed . I welded a bar across the feet of the bulkhead to prevent warping.

    Good luck 

  4. Bulkheads are just horrible. When I rebuild my 90 due to all the fiddly bits plastic trim etc and wiring It seems to take and age and visually you can see very little progress for your hard work so hence is less rewarding. 
     

    as others have said just try and do small bits half an hour in the evenings etc. And take breaks I can be fiddling all day and getting fustrated, but take the dog for a walk when I am truely fed up. Then come back and things seem clearer and a different approach has sometimes come into my mind.

     

     

     

  5. Right looking at the calendar and I want to fill it with lots of Laning and off road weekend. So just looking for a list of what is on. 

    I will be going on various laning weekends and Shire Summer Seven Sisters end of June.

    What other sites are worth the trip for the weekend or a play day? I don't mind travelling as can always do a days laning then do a play day the next day?

    I was thinking of maybe trying to do the triangle vert or something abroad and further afield but it depends on whether we end up spending money and holiday allowance on a trip to Oz 

    Let me know your thoughts or plans! 

    Thanks 

    Jon 

     

     

  6. My Disco 2 had a cill tank and twin rear cylinders where the fuel tank was giving 100L of gas then a replacement fuel tank in the wing which held 30L petrol. This was a great system and gave 300miles of range on gas or 200 if towing. Only problem was it rusted out and the cost of replacement was worth more then the car at the time.

     

     

  7. Basically a load of jobs which didn’t get done during the rebuild last year, but I had to put on hold or it would have never got back on the road and funds didn’t allow at the time.
    Paint, Swap sides, rear door and roof on the 90.

    Rebuild front axle which is sat on he work bench waiting to be assembled 

    Loads of little bits I got for xmas and birthday 

    And most importantly of all get out and use it as much as possible.

    Get someone to get the series 2 running properly then decide what to do with it. 

    But 1st of all sell a load of stuff I have accumulated over the last decade and free up a bit more space to work on things and to keep the peace in the house hold (keep an eye in he for sale section soon).

    wonder how much will have been achieved By this time next year 

  8. Hi Mav 

    You can buy bolt on brackets, but i looked into this for my safety devices internal hoop, which currently doesn't have any brackets fitted but they were going to work out horrendously expensive IMHO for 2 pieces of metal (£182). So if you are making some I would happily pay you if you wanted to make a second set or get a couple of sets cut. My roll bar is the safety devices LO33a which looks very similar to the internal bar you have.

    Wishing I had speced roll cage mounts on my Richards Chassis but wasn't sure if they would line up

    Thanks 

     

    Jon 

     

  9. Bowie has a good point. Deeper dish or more offset would be easier and less things to check. 

    I have 30mm spacers on mine with freestyle alloys and 285/75/16 and they fill the arches perfectly, so am unsure what offset that gives in total. But will be looking to change to a modular or mach 5 with the same offset as the freestyle and spacer gives at some-point. I just find the alloys are more of a pain to line up, drive flanges are harder to get to and check etc. when working on it. 

    Not had any problems with the spacers otherwise though

     

     

  10. On a defender but with discovery axles so bear with me.

    My defender is a bit of a bitsa but I want to try and standardise parts to make things easier when buying replacement parts.

    Discovery 10spline axle with wide radius arms. Swivels which have the bearing on the top swivel pin. 

    i want to rebuild the swivels now  but also want to change to a 24spline diff in the future. Are the swivels the same on 10 and 24spline? 

    When I replaced the stub axles there was confusion on which stub axles to use as the inner oil seal stopped the drive shaft coming out far enough to meet the drive member. So I have run it without the stub axle inner oil seal

    can I find part numbers just from the axle casing number as I don’t have the original vehicle details 

    any help much appreciated

    Thanks

    Jon

  11. Your 8th picture down the spring looks to be in the wrong place as it is on the adjuster and not the leading shoe? Or may just be the picture.

    i spent ages chasing a brake problem only to find I had put the top spring connecting both shoes together. So had to pump the brake twice to get a hard pedal. Spring should only be on the leading shoe and into the peg on the backing plate

     

    hope that helps 

    Jon

  12. From what I have done so far, the 2mm silent coat doesn’t do a great deal on its own. The 4mm silent coat was a lot better that I put under the bonnet, making me wish I had used it on the seatbox as well instead of the 2mm stuff. 

    Td5 sound proofing has helped, think the next step is to try some of the stuff in the links above behind the td5 sound proofing

  13. Just to let you know that I am still alive. It vented off for a long time about 24 hours in the end to empty the cylinder. The tanks must run individually with a change over valve or something as the car ran on lpg once the tank stopped hissing. 

    Getting it booked in this week for new tank or old tank removed and just run it on the rear tanks if it is sound. Will give the other a close inspection. Its not something I really put much thought into until this thread. I thought they would be mega thick tanks like dive cylinders. 

    Wasn't picked up on MOT, only this that was mentioned was the integrity of the side steps as they were rusting. 

     

     

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