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Jon W

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Everything posted by Jon W

  1. Yer having searched actually Terrafirma do a bolt on kit which fits with the rear tub on. It was the king suspension and Devon 4x4 kit I was thinking of which didn’t fit unless you had a tray back
  2. On a simple note at Land Rover level and not competition My thoughts are, good shocks, progressive springs to try and avoid springs becoming coil bound, and hydraulic bumpstops. The bumpstops being the cause of the hard bangs when hitting bumps at a faster pace. I know mine crashes over bumps as big tyres on standard height suspension means the extended bumpstops hit. So if these could cushion that would help. coil over shocks being long and progressive absorb the bigger bumps better. Well that’s what I think would like to get hydraulic bumpstops to fit without having to modify the rear tub on a 90
  3. Probably cheaper to buy second hand rubber matting for a Td5. That’s what I did. Cost about £50 for the bulkhead piece transmission tunnel and seat box or if you really want to spend then the Wright off road sound deadening will sort it Jon
  4. Definitely buy a run around. It is likely to take 3 times as long as you think and cost twice what you imagine. I did my 90 bulkhead and chassis on my own at a friends workshop which granted was 50miles away so could only do weekends on it. I tried to do as much as I could and said to myself 4months. In reality life gets in the way and fatigue. So it was nice to not have to spend every spare moment on it. Just under 1 year later I finished. Granted if I was better at electrics it would probably have been done sooner.
  5. Completely agree with this, 1 of the reasons I haven’t joined 4x4 response. I a, happy to help out but the high vis brigade and the way they go about things means I won the joining anytime soon
  6. I haven't experience of them but I think the fitted Britpart ones are meant to be quite good on the defender. I had a pair on my discovery which seemed good. Problem with to heavy duty material is you tend to get a bot more sweaty on them . Tough covers are another option as mentioned but I haven't actually driven anything with them fitted. But the company I work for has involvement with them so I can ask which covers fit defender seats best if you want Jon
  7. Jon W

    Rock sliders

    I have a set of these for sale for a 90 if you are interested? I decided the tree bars stick out too far for what I want. would save you some hassle £100
  8. I have done what you are planning. Chassis swap would have been easy. Bulkhead a pure faff as i hate wiring and faffy bits of plastic dash. on the engine side is it a disco or defender 200? As think where you want a bracket for the clutch pipe if at all. There is a wiring bracket / earth point above the trans tunnel in the middle on the engine side. I removed it before halving the bulkhead. But in hind sight it probably could have stayed . I welded a bar across the feet of the bulkhead to prevent warping. Good luck
  9. Any info on this and dimension I maybe interested
  10. I will play too, chopping logs after putting a different set of wheels on
  11. Agreed with mike, having done a complete rebuild and not be able to drive it, it is very easy to ignore it. A rolling restoration or project you use inbetween and enjoy as you go keeping the enthusiasm alive
  12. Bulkheads are just horrible. When I rebuild my 90 due to all the fiddly bits plastic trim etc and wiring It seems to take and age and visually you can see very little progress for your hard work so hence is less rewarding. as others have said just try and do small bits half an hour in the evenings etc. And take breaks I can be fiddling all day and getting fustrated, but take the dog for a walk when I am truely fed up. Then come back and things seem clearer and a different approach has sometimes come into my mind.
  13. Right looking at the calendar and I want to fill it with lots of Laning and off road weekend. So just looking for a list of what is on. I will be going on various laning weekends and Shire Summer Seven Sisters end of June. What other sites are worth the trip for the weekend or a play day? I don't mind travelling as can always do a days laning then do a play day the next day? I was thinking of maybe trying to do the triangle vert or something abroad and further afield but it depends on whether we end up spending money and holiday allowance on a trip to Oz Let me know your thoughts or plans! Thanks Jon
  14. My Disco 2 had a cill tank and twin rear cylinders where the fuel tank was giving 100L of gas then a replacement fuel tank in the wing which held 30L petrol. This was a great system and gave 300miles of range on gas or 200 if towing. Only problem was it rusted out and the cost of replacement was worth more then the car at the time.
  15. On the subject of caster correction, I see britpart do caster correction swivel housing. Surely this would be a better way to go that changing to castor correction arms?? Any thoughts Jon
  16. Basically a load of jobs which didn’t get done during the rebuild last year, but I had to put on hold or it would have never got back on the road and funds didn’t allow at the time. Paint, Swap sides, rear door and roof on the 90. Rebuild front axle which is sat on he work bench waiting to be assembled Loads of little bits I got for xmas and birthday And most importantly of all get out and use it as much as possible. Get someone to get the series 2 running properly then decide what to do with it. But 1st of all sell a load of stuff I have accumulated over the last decade and free up a bit more space to work on things and to keep the peace in the house hold (keep an eye in he for sale section soon). wonder how much will have been achieved By this time next year
  17. Just wondering how they would mount? Just cut a hole smaller than the window and then bolt on? The hope the rubber seal does the trick? I’m sick of leaks so may just go for the easy route
  18. Looking into this currently and Fridges ideas of freelander rear windows sound great. Anyone know if they are flat or curved? thanks Jon
  19. Hi Mav You can buy bolt on brackets, but i looked into this for my safety devices internal hoop, which currently doesn't have any brackets fitted but they were going to work out horrendously expensive IMHO for 2 pieces of metal (£182). So if you are making some I would happily pay you if you wanted to make a second set or get a couple of sets cut. My roll bar is the safety devices LO33a which looks very similar to the internal bar you have. Wishing I had speced roll cage mounts on my Richards Chassis but wasn't sure if they would line up Thanks Jon
  20. Where was the bumper from and dare I ask how much?
  21. Bowie has a good point. Deeper dish or more offset would be easier and less things to check. I have 30mm spacers on mine with freestyle alloys and 285/75/16 and they fill the arches perfectly, so am unsure what offset that gives in total. But will be looking to change to a modular or mach 5 with the same offset as the freestyle and spacer gives at some-point. I just find the alloys are more of a pain to line up, drive flanges are harder to get to and check etc. when working on it. Not had any problems with the spacers otherwise though
  22. On a defender but with discovery axles so bear with me. My defender is a bit of a bitsa but I want to try and standardise parts to make things easier when buying replacement parts. Discovery 10spline axle with wide radius arms. Swivels which have the bearing on the top swivel pin. i want to rebuild the swivels now but also want to change to a 24spline diff in the future. Are the swivels the same on 10 and 24spline? When I replaced the stub axles there was confusion on which stub axles to use as the inner oil seal stopped the drive shaft coming out far enough to meet the drive member. So I have run it without the stub axle inner oil seal can I find part numbers just from the axle casing number as I don’t have the original vehicle details any help much appreciated Thanks Jon
  23. Your 8th picture down the spring looks to be in the wrong place as it is on the adjuster and not the leading shoe? Or may just be the picture. i spent ages chasing a brake problem only to find I had put the top spring connecting both shoes together. So had to pump the brake twice to get a hard pedal. Spring should only be on the leading shoe and into the peg on the backing plate hope that helps Jon
  24. Bringing this thread back to the surface, are Adwest still the people to go to, i need a new steering box as mine is leaking badly now. Any recommendations? Thanks Jon
  25. Would be interested in knowing what he is after for it to be honest. As is easy thing to sort Thanks Jon
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