disco_al
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Posts posted by disco_al
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it's right at the housing of the vac pump, i'll try and get a pic next time i'm up there fiddling
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right at the point where it joins the body
was thinking of drilling the remains out and maybe finding a threaded adaptor of some sort to put in there (after tapping the hole of course). something like an air line hose tail -
Help! The outlet on my vac pump has snapped off, can it be repaired or replaced?
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I know Bell Service fitted one and worked out how to get the ECU working. I can't imagine the motors aren't expensive nor the BAS work though ?
in the region of £5-6K - most of that on the electrickery if memory serves from when they converted a D1.
usual suspects are the gmc v8 diesels from the good ol humvee - although one particular breed of those has some major reliability issues iirc.
not much these days that wouldn't require some electronics to make it run unfortunately
:(anyone got any news of megasquirt for diesels yet???? (hat, coat, gone....)
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the headlamp hole is bigger and the mounting holes are in a different place to the 200's - it can be done if you have access to a 300 to make a template, and are good at cutting bits out.
relays make a huge difference to the light output - more so with the 300 lamps and nightbreakers, plus it gives you a good trigger feed for spotlamps if you make your own loom
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Who fitted the bearings and set the swivel preload? Have you seen, with your own eyes, that its set correctly?
me and yes they are set as per spec. we rebuilt both sides, top and bottom along with wheel bearings a few weeks ago to try and cure it, still no change.
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hell, i remember knights from 20 years ago!! they used to have a shop at the michael wood services on the m5
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forgot to mention it's on castor corrected arms as well. panhard rod bushes are next in line, just waiting on delivery
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Seems very unclear to me
if it involves the DoT or DVLA you can guarentee that...
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Here's a head scratcher for everyone. Friend of mine has got a 1994 Defender 90 300 tdi. At 47 mph (don't know how he knows it's 47mph) there is a slight shake from the steering wheel, bit like out of balance wheels.
But, when you hit a pothole at anything from 30mph upwards, you get the "death wobble" from hell through the whole truck. Before i hear cries of swivel proloads - the wheel bearings have been changed, top and bottom swivel bearings replaced, HD steering bars on it, with excellent track rod ends, terrafirma shocks and springs, approx 10 months old, polybushed radius arms (Bearmach ones). Tyres are like new (BFG Mud Terrains - 235/85/16), wheels have been balanced. Front prop is currently removed due to a UJ needing to be changed, and also the diff pinion input bearing needs looking at as there is a bit too much play, causing vibration through the driveline when accelerating.
Sooooo, what is the problem causing the "death wobble" and the speed related steering wobble??? I've had my head out the window (passenger side) when it has happened, and you can see the wheel wobbling as if it's about to fall off
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ewww, that's not nice - have a look at https://www.facebook.com/pages/DezynSmith-Defender-concept/278975658855513?fref=ts for a better one (IMO)
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Personal choice would either be a 300 manual with the pump tweaked to get rid of the initial flat spot, or a remapped td5. At least with a manual you can hold a gear as long as you need without the worry of the box changing up or down at the wrong time
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As per title, are they actually necessary or just there to reduce NVH? I would think that they are pretty redundant anyway in the cases where dislocation cones are used.
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Cillit bang is quite good
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Supplies & Parts (to be determined after visual inspections):
1. Hi temp Gasket Maker (1 tube)
2. Valve Grinding Paste
3. Gasket Paper (if u removing to look see the Thermostat / Water Pump)
4. ELRING Head Gasket (correct thickness to be determined after measuring piston height)
5. Manifold Gasket (any brand but must have metal insert matching exhaust header)
6. Valve stem Rubber Seals - 8 pcs
7. Rocker Cover Gasket
don't forget some anti freeze and an oil filter and oil as well.
it's quite an easy job (apart from the almost guarenteed rounded/awkward manifold bolt/stud (a 3/8ths socket set is useful, along with extensions) allow about a day. as it's your first time, allow a day and a half if all goes well.
if you were closer i'd offer to give you a hand, done this job plenty of times now
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as above really. best way to clean it out is to either squirt some fresh oil in to flush it through, or just refill then change in 100 miles or so
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What I really couldn't get my head around was that the door post bottoms were absolutely solid on the outside, but the inner panels (in the footwell!!!!) were non existent.
that could be down to 2 or 3 things - the most common i've seen is the base of the windscreen, just where the A pillar meets it, is filled with that lovely seam sealer as a bodge to fill a big ish hole. the other problem i've seen is the A panel (same area as on mini's) let's water in behind the wing stiffener rail, as it rots, internally. On the passenger side, you can find that the heater intake seal has failed (or was non existant - as per mine), let's water in, runs along the underside of the bulkhead, and then causes corrosion from the inside out. If your heater box has rusty marks on it, then 99% that's one leak. Also if you get a wet patch in the middle of a rubber floor mat, that's the heater inlet seal.
The same technique is applied at the rear, where the roof, rear quarter and the tailgate corner posts meet, big wedge of seam sealer applied to fill the hole.
I know where you are coming from with the random rot problem though, mines got rust holes halfway up the B pillars????
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i'll probably get told off - but have a look for a program called "A 4x4 is Born" - the guy builds a 100" special over several episodes based on a RRC chassis. Land Rover Owner magazine have also recently done this over a year in the magazine as well
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i think there is a slight change on the later ones. i fitted a new one to my 97 and it sits lower than the old one did
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the holes are also different for the mounting lugs
have you had a word with YRM? -
i always use a piece of wood with 3 holes in it - 2 at 1215mm (centres) and one then at 924mm (centres) and put the drag/track rods in and adjust as necessary - works perfectly for me
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simples - YRM metal solutions. Do yourself a favour though, if you want it to last a while, then strip all the rear end interior trim out and inspect the inner rear quarter panels for rot, odds are they will be starting to rust by now (both of mine have had it in this area). Downside is that you will need to fabricate repair sections
Have a look at my thread in my signature to see how far the rot can get and be prepared.
If you are planning on keeping it for a long time, then do it properly once the test has run out. Use the last couple of months to decide what else can be done while it's not in daily use.
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get a pic up, that'll help. new arches can be had for about £35 quid, and aren't too difficult to fit
think they are held on with about 4 spot welds and a bolt into the quarter panel at the top
was thinking of drilling the remains out and maybe finding a threaded adaptor of some sort to put in there (after tapping the hole of course). something like an air line hose tail
compomotive wheel nuts
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
ebay - there was a guy selling them on there last year for mangels style wheels, which use the compomotive nuts. they are 21mm, with a long end that fits through the wheel hole to nearly the hub flange.