[Fitting an aftermarket immobiliser]

i know people are recommending the battery isolators .....and i've fitted one myself on the 90... but would a well prepared thief not have one?

[1989 2.5TD - Oil Servicing]

folks, was wondering whether we could start a sticky for the replacing of oils/lubes/grease etc on Landys...i have a 2.5TD and haven't a clue where to start with replacing the oils....could we create a thread that would have photo's guides to help people like myself perform such a task...?

[roof off...silly doors]

I am just after fitting Series doors onto the wifes 90. Bottom half is a doddle, just remove the 4 bolts that go onto the existing door and swap out.

You need to make sure you get the anti-burst locks and new lock barrels and a new striker (this needs 2 holes drilled in the pillar).

Only problem that I have is that the top half doesn't seem to line up neatly (leaving a 1cm gap from the seal). I am currently reading up on Uri Gellar to bend the top-half, and looking to get some bigger door seals.

[Series Doors On Defender]

superb advice all round.....think plan of action should be

1 - use spacer on bottom hinge

2 - increase the effectiveness of rubber seal, might try and make it sit further out (guess i'll try it with strips of thick'ish plastic to test it out.

3 - if the above still doesn't work, will gently bend it...

thanks guys for this....will let you know how i get on.

[Series Doors On Defender]

There is definatly a rubber between door top and bottom on my series LRs but have never stuck one on a 90/110 to know, how big is the gap....?

Gap would be around 1cm at its widest.....

[Series Doors On Defender]

Probably an easy question for you knowledgeable people.....

fitting 2 x series doors onto 90 2.5TD 90.....fitted the passenger one first, reused existing hinges, bolts, nuts etc....fitted new anti-burst handle, and fitted new catch on pillar, so the door closes and locks, slide in the upper part and bolted it tight to the lower door....however once the door is closed, there is a big gap at the top of the door.

not knowing enough about Series and 90's for that matter, is there something i.e. spacer, wedge that I need to fit?

thanks in advance.

[Brake Lights]

If a brake light bulb has gone, the other will still work. If the fuse has blown, neither will work as there is only one fuse.

If an indicator bulb has blown the others on the same side will work but much faster as the resistance is lower. Flashers going too fast are a dead giveaway that you have a bulb gone. The other side will still work normally. If your 4-way flasher unit is blown then often none of the indicators will work. Sometimes one side will work. This is caused by Lucas Prince of Darkness who makes sure you never know exactly what causes what to happen. It adds to the excitement.

I'm going to buy some replacement bulbs today and see if they are working (i have'nt had a proper look, but i am asuming there is only one way to fit these 21W/5W bulbs). The fuse isn't blown, but i'll give the connectors a little sanding to rectify any problems in the fuse box.

I noticed that there is an electrical towing connector too, is it likely this is causing problems - perhaps its wet? Is there an easy way of removing this entirely - without having to cut it off? (i'll never be towing anything with 90)

Well, popped to the local auto-mart...bought some replacement bulbs..stuck them in and now all working....not sure why it didn't work with only 1 good bulb...but don't care (i'll just buy in 2's from now).

[Brake Lights]

Just a quick query with brake lights...are they designed to operate independently of each other? i.e if the RHS bulb has blown will teh LHS still continue to function. The reason I ask is that if one of the indicator bulbs is blown, the indicators on one side don't work...

[89 Defender Electrical Wiring]

I doubt if the stalk is at fault if parts of the system work and I'd leave it working as is, maybe worth checking the switch contacts while you are poking around. Double check the wiring and how are you making the repairs? Check for continuity and volts with a multi meter through the system including at multiplugs using the wire colours above. If you are going to rewire do it downstream of the switches, incorporating relays is a good idea, TD5s have them. Just wired a load in my 101 before my halogens melt everything.

Ok, will check the connectors around the stalk tonight and see whats what....in order to make the repairs, i'm resoldering the cable together, then heatshrinking and amalgamating the heatshrinking, to ensure i have a solid connection.

[89 Defender Electrical Wiring]

Ok, thanks for the help guys....i think I have managed to get the wiring now back to the original intended way...i wish it was that easy...it now looks as though there is something else wrong too...as only the passenger side dipped beam is on, and like before flicking to full beam leaves only the side lights on....so rather than waste any more time on this...is it legal to re-wire the lighting system to say buttons on the dashboard i.e.

i am thinking of having all the lights on switches mounted on the dash...

1 - Side Lights

2 - Dipped Beam

3 - Full Beam

4 - Spots

I would simply run new lengths of cable for all lights on both sides of the car and that way I would remove any dodgy wiring that exists elsewhere. In addition these would all be connected to relays. Is this a good plan?

[89 Defender Electrical Wiring]

Good Morning, I am looking for some help and advice. I recently purchased an 89 Defender 90 for a toy to go off-roading with.

However, there are a few problems with the lighting system. Basically, the previous owners had attempted to install 4xfront spotlights and 2xrear spotlights (with 2x switches located in between the cigarette lighter and the windscreen washer switch). This has not worked for them! And the only main light that comes on is the passengers headlight beam. But all lights go off when I put on high beam.

On further diagnosis, and the attempting to repair the cables back to their previous unaltered state (spliced cables everywhere), I think I am nearly there. However, I have 3 questions...

1 - The cigarette lighter (i installed a new one - as existing one was broken, and I need one for charging my mobile) - is it standard that these work 100% of the time, in that they don't require the key inserted/turned. Also, can someone advise how the LED on my new cigarette lighter should attach to the existing wiring, so that it only comes on when the lights are on. There are 2 cables (red and black) for the LED and which cables (colours if possible) should I splice to connect them into?

2 - Whoever installed the spots, cut a drivers side cable behind the front lights (red/blue or blue/red) and is lying loose. I am assuming this is the case why the drivers side low beam doesn't work - would I be right, so if I reconnect this cable will it likely solve my problem? - Also is there an easy way to get to this cable without taking off the bonnet/wings?

3 - Now I am not 100% clued in with electrics, so could someone please help with what components I would need to purchase to be able to sort out the spot lights? What I require is 2 buttons on the dashboard (Front Spots & Rear Spots). I constructed a quick sketch of the front spots (see attached) - does this look about right? And obviosuly change over the DPST for a SPCO relay for the Rear Spots. Also, is there anything I should be concerned with (i.e. types of switch etc.)

Thanks

Ciaran