ronnie_rotten
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Posts posted by ronnie_rotten
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i've got meself a nice straight set of lifty handle doors that need repair. the frames are all shot, but i think i know a guy who'll fix em.
the killer is, i just got a price for the dor channels from paddock (mxc5836 and 5829) and it came in at 62 quid plus delivery. ouch. now there's no way in hell those pizzily little bits are worth that, but without them the windows won't work.
whats the cheap and easy alternative?
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nice one chaps. some of those names are becoming familliar to me on the irish forums, so i'm sure i'll cross paths with somone sooner or later.
hey, it aint like the uk out here. i'm getting landy junk withdrawals. i'm gonna have to start a scrappy....
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does anyone know of any breakers in ireland? google doesn't seem to be forthcoming...
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i was a bit light on the detail there, wasn't i?!? i was just wondering how dificult it would be (and expensive) to bring landrovers over from ireland for resale and hopefully profit. already right hand drive, so that eliminates a lot of messing about getting them to uk spec.
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What sort of costs are involved when importing Land Rovers to the UK from another EU country? Does anyone have any experience of this, any pitfalls, pointers or advice?
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it's official. I'm a suspicious git! I'm probably just jelous. It's long, it's strong and there 'aint nothing wrong.....!
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It is I have 2 300 tdi defenders a 90 and 110 and both of them have the intake on the drivers side along with every other 300 tdi. I think he is getting confused as it is The 200 tdi that has it on the passenger side
that was kinda my point, a 1990 motor would have a TD or v8 and therefore the intake on the passenger side.
I guess i didn't look closely enough at the hinges, my own fault for using my phone as a computer!
Didn't know that early tow electrics we're ever recessed, so i'll be witdrawing that!
Of course it's entirely possible that new wings, engine etc could have been fitted. In fact, i'd say entirely likely!
Maybe it is straight-up, and i'm a suspicious git. Be interesting to see the interior....
Does the back axle look to far forward on the side view, or is that my wonky eyes?
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I never get bored of reading the 'it's a ringer threads, and it may help people avoid buying somthing they don't want!
So.....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1990-LAND-ROVER-defender-double-cab-130-bonatti-grey-/130523962977
I see td5 rear x-member for a start, air intake on the wrong side and late model windscreen hinges.
To be fair to the guy, he really doesn't sound like he has a clue about what he's got.
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i've had a 2.5 na, a 200tdi and a 2 300tdi's and acouple of v8's.
2.5 na - flat, flat flatitty flat flat. Even on the flat. 55mph flat out. Generally, flat but reliably so.
200tdi - waaaaay more power, a different game all together. Not a v8, but still good.
300tdi - not a lot different to the 200 in my opinion, but hard to be sure.
Had a mate with a 2.5td. He ran 35 inch simex which should have sapped all the go out of it. He tweaked the pump on it til it smoked like hell and it did the trick. He eventually upgraded to a 200 tho.
Maybe tweak what you've got and if your still short on gogo then consider an upgrade?
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What's the setup like on a 130 then? I always assumed they'd just have heavier duty springs rather than any major differences. Are they a greater gvw?
I can't remember off hand what colour the stripes are on the springs, but yeah, they are a bigger spring with bigger hangers and cups on the axle.
I'd put a set of 130's on just for the increased 'potential' if they came my way and fitted.
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how come some Hicaps have a gvw of 3050kg and some 3500? Is it a spring option when new, and if that's the case, is it possible to easily upgrade using original factory approved parts and then apply for the change to the log book?
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Too late now, but next time your asked if you want to sell it, say 'nah, i just spent hundreds having every panel security etched and trackers hidden in everything on the truck.'
Now i know pikeys are cunning, and sneaky and good at what they do, but at the end of the day they are, almost to a man uneducated, stupid and lazy. Even a stupid pikey can pick an easy target over a tricky one so do all you can and then use stickers, bluff and bullsh to cover the corners you can't afford. After all, these boys think if they wear a flat cap and tweed whilst driving their brand new pickup people will think they're good honest counrty folk and that an 0800 number, a token sprig of privet hedge and the words 'landscape tree surgery and driveways' on the side mean nobody knows they're out stealing scrap.
If you're a pikey and this offends you, i'm very sorry. You thieving pikey.
If this needs moderating, then mod away moderator.
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First up, is this the guy I used to see at land rover shows? He had a great big matt green somthing or other. Can't remmember if it was a 130 hicap, or a longr ranger hicap thing at some point.
Anyway, if it's not him has anyone bought from tpuk on ebay, feedback seems ok.
Secondly, i'm unsure whether i want nato green or olive drab. I'm not trying to be accurate to anything, it's not for a replica or anything like that. Is nato green darker with a less yellowy hue? Would drab be more like the older (70's 80's) sort of colour. I know bronze green's the classic AFS and 50's sort of colour, but not sure about the other 2.
A picture of one next to the other would be grand!
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This is due to the CV joint splines and the drive member. I had exactly the same problem once. If you replace the CV where the splines have been worn away and the drive member, the problem will be sorted.
Although having said all that, your point '6' doesn't makes sense to me really.
How come, when you fixed (bodged
) it in 'point 5', you then stripped the other side?when i lost drive at the roadside, one of my first thoughts was to have the shafts out and see what was what. When i took the rubber cap off i couldn't even see the circlip for rust. I chipped off what used to be the clip and then tried to get the drive member off. It was totally welded to the shaft. Even with a wd, a hammer, more wd i couldn't budge it. Eventually, i put the bolts back in and while the missus lifted the clutch i carried on until it eventually sheared an spun inside the flange. You wouldn't believe the state of the shaft. Literally 4mm narrower where it had rusted out. I figured the rust was doing the job of the splines and therefore that problem was secondary to the actual truck stopper. Which i figured was cv or break in the shaft, or on the other side. Hence the stripdown.
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well. Now i'm confused. I've had the rear shafts out and they're fine. I'm pretty sure if the diff had blown i'd have heard more noise at the time and at least a grumbling when towing it back.
I took the front offside stub axle off as a whole unit to save time and unless the cv's gone in there i'm stumped cos the diff's fine.
Piles of axle bits and no answer.
Can the transfer box fail in a way that only sends drive to one axle (in this case front) that would need centre diff engaged to get the vehicle to move? That would make it look like a shaft had snapped when actually the box was at fault?
I'm gonna have to just put everything back together again and start diagnosis from scratch soon cos i'm just getting nowhere at the moment. With the motor in pieces i can't even tell if i've re-engaged something in the transfer box that may have slipped out?!? I'm just grasping at straws now....
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I think the fact you had to attach the passenger side is a bit odd, I assume its still in center difflock? if so you would still have drive to the rear axle even with no front prop on. unless of course you've broken something at the back aswell
Looking forward to the answer on this!
Steve
Ah ha! My thoughts exactly as i sit here in a field surrounded by the contents of my front axle. And so, to the rear of the vehicle where i romove 2 perfectly servicable propshafts. Poo. I was kinda hoping that would be the end of it. Only the rear diff left to check....but that seems like wishful thinking.....
Now, for the purposes of clarity and to help with diagnosish, i'm gonna start over with the sequence of events, and hopefully somthing will click for somone, and they can tell me it's all gonna be ok....!
1. Sudden, silent loss of drive at low speed on slight incline on tarmac.
2. Discovery of totally knackered drive member and halfshaft splines (nearside)
3. Tow home
4. Linkage to centre difflock freed up, lock engaged, resulting in no drive.
5. Knackered drive member attached to knackered half shaft using land rover special tool number 2 (lump hammer) and bolted back to stub axle, resulting in drive.
6. After brief period of elation, nearside stub axle stripped, inspected and considered to be in reasonable condition.
(bar knackered splines) need to replace cv joint and drive member noted.
7. off side stub axle removed complete, as i was expecting to see a busted half shaft. Dissapointment.
8. removal of diff, requiring me to drop the steering bar, steering damper, donut thing and anti roll bar. Hmmm, much easier on a defender.
9. Nowt wrong with the diff. Period of head scratching.
10. Removal of both rear half shafts revealing nothing untoward.
11. Avoid removing rear diff, cos i really don't fancy it right now. Post on forum, hoping for deliverance.
12. Whilst posting, wonder if the offside cv could be the problem, as it's about the only bit i havn't visually checked. Though thinking probably not...
So. There we are. If it's not the rear diff, can anything happen to the transfer box that would fit with this situation? Can it break in a way that it will only have drive when in diff lock, mimicking the effect of a broken shaft, cv or diff?
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right. I've got the lock in, the light doesn't work (bulbs ok, must be the switch) but after hammering the drive member back onto the shaft and putting a couple of bolts in......i got drive! Wooohooo!
There's oil in the axle, looks a bit thin, but it's there. So tomorrow its shafts out and see what's what i guess.
Place your bets, gentlemen. Long shaft, short shaft, cv or diff?
Would the fact that i had to reattach the passenger side drive member to get drive give any clues? I gotta say, i've had a headache building all day and it's just landed hard! I can't think straight. I need a drink.
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no light, but i've never had a landy that it worked on!
Maybe it hasn't quite engaged yet. I'd better keep wiggling it in there!
If the light doesn't work, how will i know when it's in?!?
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ok, i was halfway there already, so now i recon i've got it freed up. With difflock in the prop turns, but i can stop it turning by grabbing hold of it. That's not good is it?
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i'm in there right now trying to free up the lever. It's bloody sticky. Do i just keep firing wd onto the switch on top of the t box and all the other linkage? I don't wanna get too heavy handed and snap things....
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oh. Bugger. Well, can't take it back now. I guess i'll strip the axle and try and get some second hand parts to rebuild so i can see what else i've damaged.
If i get difflock engaged first, and then try and move the truck will that tell me if the centre's ok?
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right. No diff lock, cos of the sticky lever so i guess first job is to sort that, then strip the front axle and find what's gone pop. I'm thinking from what every one says and the suspicious dryness of the shaft end that it's in the axle, due to poor maintenance on my part. Oops.
Still don't get why the noise seems to be coming fro the gearbox?!?
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ok, it's front prop spinning, and of course the newly exposed spineless shaft end. That spoils the test a bit doesn't it?
Why all the noise from the gearbox though?
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I've been here recently and that can of petrol and the box of matches is lookin oh so tempting
Steve
Hey, i've got petrol! And matches! Oh so tempting......
I havn't jacked a wheel up as the prop seemed quite happy to spin with it on the ground!
The noise seems to be coming from the g/box. I put it into gear and hopped out to have a listen, i figured if it's already knackered it couldn't do mush harm. Or not....
Just took the rubber cap of the shaft end. Didn't look good. Bone dry, and the circlip was indistinguishable from the shaft due to rust. Took the drive member off for a gander. Didn't look good. The splines have evolved into a new kind of 'rust on rust' mesh setup. Sadly i've now buggered this revolutionairy new system and i'm left with a splineless shaft and member (easy tiger). I'm ashamed to say i don t recon theres a lot of oil in that axle, or has been for a while......
) it in 'point 5', you then stripped the other side?
window channel price shock!!! alternatives needed!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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that could be just the stuff. cheers john. i'd be interested to hear of anyone's experiences of fitting these or indeed oem channels. sure it's pretty straight forward but i'm a big fan of knowing what to expect!