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Posts posted by Ex Member
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Yes, rim width is inside between the bead surfaces. Rim width is not shown on the drawing above.
Back and front spacing is easy to measure and of most use for clearance issues.
Wheel width is less than the sum of back and front spacing, usually by around 1".
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OK, cool. You provide data, I can make a webpage... No problemo.
If anyone else wants to help.... and you have a rim sitting around, please measure backspacing as a minimum. Frontpsacing would be good as well. There is a LOT of confusion over the terms. For this conversation, we will use this picture and not argue about terminology.
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The heater box is held in only by the screws through the vent on top of the wing assuming by "heater box" you mean the air inlet box. It should then pull out. You should be able to route the hose under the box.
If you mean the heater itself, it is held on by 4 screws through the bulkhead.
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No hurry. Just out of interest really. It would be nice if someone measured and published data for the various wheels available.
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Michele, did you are can you measure the backspacing (or the fontspacing as it is easier) on the 8" modulars? They don't seem to stick out any further than the 7". Thanks, John
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7" is perfectly fine. You lose a bit of road handling, but you will hold a bead better off road.
These are 285 SSRs on 7" modulars.
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this is also the one where you can change the front end round by removing the 4 bolts and rotating the front casing round to suit either the disco or defender engine
If it has 4 bolts, it does not work..... The tabs are 120 degrees apart and thus it only works if the alternator has 3 bolts. I already pruchased two different Discovery 100 Amp alternators. They both ended up having 4 bolt bodies and thus could not be modified to work. The three bolt body units do not appear to be sold any more.
The unit IMER is offering is this one, http://www.remanufacturers.co.uk/prod-xf/detail.asp?imer=AL0372
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Mondeo fan. Fits the radiator very well, move huge amounts of air and is cheap.
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Will or does this help?
http://www.rjs4x4.com/eshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=523_20_260&products_id=1132
No, that is the Discovery alternator. They have the adjusting ear on the other side, which interferes with the intercooler piping.
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Imer Reman, http://www.remanufacturers.co.uk/
They did not say what it was from. I've asked for more info.
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They got back to me. They say they can supply a new 100 Amp alternator for 100 pounds that will fit.
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Check your timing. It is probably retarded.
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You just need the really with its wiring. It plugs into an existing harness and then one long lead runs to the battery. As stated, you can just run the old manual system, but it is more convenient. When you get below freezing it is useful...
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First, make sure the pinion nut is tight as it holds the bearings in place. If it is loose, tighten it and you are lucky...
If it is tight, the U-joint may have taken out the pinion bearing.
Most likely everything else is fine. You will need to change the pinion bearings. But don't drive it much more as the chances of damaging the ring gear or pinion are worse with use.
1/4" is not a total failure....just a worn or flogged out bearing.
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So I've contacted an alternator rebuilding company in the UK. They responded right away saying that they figured they could supply a 120 Amp one. I'll post back when they have some more details.
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Thanks, I will read. The last one is a 200TDI Disco engine, which have a different mounting arrangement. You can simply buy a 100 Amp stock alternator for those engines.
I need one to fit a Defender 200TDI.
I should add some more....I have already purchase two different 100 Amp Disco TDI alternators. Neither were able to be modified to fit.
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LOL, yes I could change everything, but I was looking for a simple solution.
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I thought Ford Mondeo and Granada ones fitted? Seem to remember a post about this ages ago (although i suppose you dont have them in Canada, so not a lot of help!)
Sorry, for not being clear. There are NO cars that have the correct one here...
What I want is particulars of what cars in the UK use them, so that I can get one out of the UK. There is no problem for me buying stuff in the UK. I just need to make sure in advance that it will fit as returning the alternator because it is wrong is not possible.
There are lots of Mondeos with different engines and different alternators. A year and engine size and someone that has seen one fitted would be really handy.
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You could convert the 200 to the underslung turbo, but that would give you the similar problems you get when trying to fit a disco 200tdi into a defender, or you could go down the route enzo took and modify the turbo to fit the high position.
No, mine is left hand drive, and trust me, there is not enough room to clear the steering.
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So after way too much effort trying to find a larger alternator here in Canada to fit the stock location, I'm still at a bust..... Early 90's VWs have a 90 amp one that is close, but it fouls the water pump.
If anyone has fitted one from another vehicle that they know fits...could you let me know the year and model you got it from.
Thanks.
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Nobody??
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I still cannot see anything. You need a flash on the camera or some lighting.
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Cannot you guys get the proper stuff in the UK?? The problem with grease is it will run or cook off with the heat.
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1) When winching, will the stress to the chassis be huge? Since its like resting on the chassis, i am afraid of structural integrity and worst still the entire thing tearing off!!!
2) Any winching angle i need to avoid?
Thanks for any replies.
Sorry, but we need better pictures to make any sort of evaluation of the design. I cannot see a thing in those pictures.
285 on 7"
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'll start
NRC7578 (Defender tube rims)
16 x 5.5
Backspacing 110 mm (5")
Frontspacing 55 mm (2-3/16")
Offset 36 mm calculated (33 stamped on the rim)
Modular (unknown origin)
16 x 7
Backspacing 127 mm (4-5/16")
Frontspacing 97 mm (3-13/16")
Offset 15 mm calculated